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Posted by: biosurfer1 Oct 27 2009, 10:09 PM

I did a search but couldn't find anything, though I know someone here mentioned resealing the Harbor Freight blast cabinet.

I bought one last night and am in the process of putting it together. I have read the sealing they do at the factory is crap and I figure I'll just change the seals while its apart.

What type of seals would be best? A better foam seal? Liquid seals?

I have been using a free air blaster a little bit which has worked great and is a ton of fun, however very messy so I'm really looking forward to a contained unit.

Any other advice before its all put together would be great.

BTW, anyone interested, the unit I bought (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93608) is on sale for $219 in store, couple that with one of the 20% off coupons in a car mag and you get out the door for a little over $190...not too shabby

Posted by: Gint Oct 27 2009, 10:19 PM

Same one I've had for 10 years almost. I had to rearrange some of he seals, but I didn't have to get any new seals to get it sealed up. The hopper latch took some tweaking to get it to seal up well. They may have changed it by now, but originally your hose was just supposed to go through the hole in front of the cabinet. So I attached a swivel whip hose to the inside of the cabinet with a couple of washers and a rubber washer in between and then male plug on the outside of the cabinet. A little tweaking and it's performed well for years. Not bad for $200 which was all it cost me even with the added whip hose and hardware.

Posted by: quadracerx Oct 27 2009, 10:27 PM

Hi....

I have one of those too...but havent put it together yet...But post some pics when you figure out the seal situation....

Also..Gint...im trying to visuallize the hose setup you mention....

"So I attached a swivel whip hose to the inside of the cabinet with a couple of washers and a rubber washer in between and then male plug on the outside of the cabinet."

Got a picture for us old feable folks...LOL

Thanks...

Steve

Posted by: biosurfer1 Oct 27 2009, 11:07 PM

Steve,


I'll take a couple pics tomorrow of the seals... luckily, there arn't too many of them, but they can be a pain if they leak. Nothing like a cloudy garage.

So far, its been very easy to put together, just dont want to have to take it back apart to re-do the seals.

Posted by: ConeDodger Oct 28 2009, 01:57 AM

Brett,
The leak isn't terrible. But I do have a bit of glass bead on the floor so it is there...

Posted by: zymurgist Oct 28 2009, 06:15 AM

I used asphalt caulk on all the inside corners of mine. I'm not really sure what to do about the door seal, though. I have the small cabinet that I just set up on saw horses just outside the garage whenever I need to use it.

Posted by: 9146986 Oct 28 2009, 07:16 AM

You can get some self adhesive foam to seal the door or top. There's a few different widths and thickness. ACE, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 28 2009, 01:24 PM

You could stuff all that money you "saved" by not buying one that didn't need repairs BEFORE you put it together into all the seams ..........................

The Cap'n

Posted by: 914Sixer Oct 28 2009, 02:39 PM

I used clear bath tub silicone on mine.

Posted by: biosurfer1 Oct 28 2009, 02:52 PM

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Oct 28 2009, 12:24 PM)

Posted by: HeloMech Oct 28 2009, 03:02 PM

I just bought a cabinet from a guy on CL last night on the way home from work. Looks like the older brother to the one below. This pic shows two side doors, mine just has a door on the right side.

He gave me a 50# bucket of new media. It has a flourescent light built into it with a switch on the outside. Only thing I want to do to it is pull the window and reseal that, and about an inch of the left glove came unstitched from the arm. I'll stitch and seal that up as well.

Whole setup was $100 and it looks nearly as clean as this stock photo.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 28 2009, 04:53 PM

Nice! Keep in mind you need a big honkin' air compressor AND a huge tank to keep up with the demand for air.

The Cap'n

Posted by: HeloMech Oct 28 2009, 05:05 PM

I'm running a 60 gallon upright on 220 with nice air flow ratings.

Posted by: al weidman Oct 28 2009, 09:03 PM

Brett, I have that unit also and do not have any leak problems. The only problem I had was that the supplied hose really sucked, by not sucking, I got some decent hose from Home Depot and it works but is stiff. I am going to try Gint's idea, it should help allot. Al.

Posted by: carr914 Oct 28 2009, 10:40 PM

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Oct 28 2009, 05:53 PM)

QUOTE(HeloMech @ Oct 28 2009, 06:05 PM)

I'm running a 60 gallon upright on 220 with nice air flow ratings.

Posted by: Justinp71 Oct 28 2009, 11:40 PM

Use some old 914 rubber!


Well maybe that wont work, but I'm working on getting something we can put inside of it.

Posted by: 736conver Oct 29 2009, 09:16 AM

Mine leaked right away, brand new. I just duct taped all the edges.

Posted by: Garold Shaffer Oct 29 2009, 05:09 PM

QUOTE(736conver @ Oct 29 2009, 07:16 AM)

Posted by: r_towle Oct 29 2009, 07:13 PM

I use a broom once in a while.
It looks better than duct tape...

So it leaks...big deal.

Rich

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 29 2009, 07:52 PM

Let's have a little glass bead tutoring session. Glass bead dust is mucho bad to inhale. Glass bead on the floor of your work area can get into EVERYTHING. Glass bead inside your engine is FATAL to that engine. Not only do you need to be extremely careful when you glass bead blast engine parts, you have to use the same level of care when working on your engine or gearbox anywhere near where the glass bead blasting cabinet is located. Like in the same room. Allowing the residue to accumulate on your floor (and everywhere else in the area, 'cause that's what it does, is not good, and sweeping it up with a broom or vacuum cleaner is just another way to propel it right into your work. BE CAREFUL!!!!!! Oh, and be sure you have a GOOD drier on your air supply.

The Cap'n

Posted by: r_towle Oct 29 2009, 07:56 PM

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Oct 29 2009, 09:52 PM)

Posted by: biosurfer1 Oct 29 2009, 09:24 PM

All good points, which is why I'm taking measures to make sure it's sealed as tight as possible.

I use a respirator when I blast anything and I also read a lot about the necessity of dry air so I got that covered too.

I sealed it up tonight and it's looking great. Can't wait to get that first part in it this weekend!

Posted by: charliew Oct 29 2009, 11:09 PM

A good blaster vaccum is also going to be needed and you might want a catch box (reclaimer) to collect the sand or beads that the vaccum source draws into the air path that will allow you to recover the media. It will have a dump valve on it and is just a box that is inline with the vaccum. I use at least 28 cfm at 100-120 psi on my cabinet. Really no matter how hard you try there will be dust and media on the floor around the cabinet. Just from changing the media from one type to the other will spill some and my door always drops some when you open and close it. You will probably want to get some stickon clear window shields. My friend just buys extra glass windows but I change the stick on shields. I use my cabinet way more than he does. I use Scat Blast products But I also started before hf was around. I used to just run two 5hp 120psi 17.5 cfm compressors while I was blasting and only used one for normal stuff. Also as the media gets really used up it will make a lot more dust in the cabinet.