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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Start of a new Project Thread

Posted by: Cire Nov 3 2009, 05:04 PM

Howdy All,

This is the start of a new thread and the progress I am making on this little 914 car. First off, let me give you a little history. I had a WANTED ad in the craigslist area for Tucson and PHX. I got a call from a man stating he had a 914 that he wanted 1500 bucks for. We talked about the car. It ran, drove and he said it would make the drive to Tucson. We talked a little more and we determined he would take 1300 bucks for it. I arrange a rental car, drove to Prescott, dropped off the rental and then met the guy. It was a little rough at first but the car did start and drive... Well? No. Badly... Yes. I decided to go for it and started out the drive. It did infact make it all the way home in the heat of the day and over the mountains. = ) Anyway, so its now home, on stands and ready to begin its new life. Here are some pictures to start the thread.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 3 2009, 05:28 PM

I have decided to take it down to the bare metal. After a week of a lot of hours in the garage, here is were we are at today. = )

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Posted by: Cire Nov 3 2009, 05:30 PM

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Posted by: Cire Nov 3 2009, 05:45 PM

My goal with the car is a light weight -simple- reliable SCCA car. I want to remove the horns, flood lights, rear window and anything else I can to get the weight out. I am also doing the inside long kit as well as the rear end kit to ensure it is strong and secure. I would love a 911 front end but this entire project is going to be spendy to say the least. So I am going to stick with the 914 stuff (front arms, hubs, brakes etc). I just was a high bidder on some rear shocks. I will order some 160 lbs springs for the rear if I can find a used set somewhere. I am going to go with a stock sway bar up front and will see about finding some better tortion bars. Anyway, this is just a little direction for where this is going as of right now. Tomorrow someone might call and offer me a front end for 100 bucks and the direction could change. = ) But for now we will march this direction.

Now from all of you... I have NO IDEA WHAT I AM DOING!!! LOL confused24.gif I need all your help with what to do and why I am doing it. My plan is to get the body work done (welding holes, patching rust etc) and then each day take on a new aspect of the car. Clean the parts, fix anything broken and then install it in the car. So what do I need to do before I paint? = ) Like the front drivers eye lash for the light has a bent edge... Not to bad but a little bent. Thats going to be covered and not seen... Do I do more to fix it then I already have? Do I cut it out and weld in a new piece? (my welding isnt perfect... )

Anyway, I will have lots of questions over the next few weeks. My goal (please take a shot of whiskey before reading more) is to have the car on the road and legal by Thanksgiving. HAHAHAHAHAHH SHOOT ME!!! = )

Thanks all.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 3 2009, 05:49 PM

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How do I get rid of this box (voltage regulator?)? I dont have fuel injection and I think its all empty except the battery side.
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Posted by: Cire Nov 3 2009, 06:02 PM

I was told that sand blasting the car is the best way to deal with the rust. It blasts it away (just what I was told) and you know exactly what needs to be fixed. I also was told that within about a week of your car sitting bare without a primer on it or something, that it starts to rust. But I also heard that if you primer it with POR its a problem for the painters(?).

So I was going to get it blasted so when I weld the longs and the rear end that its good perfect clean steel to steel.

LOL So what do I do? Anyone done this before?

I saw one post where the person did all the painting under the car themselves and then built the car and then took it to a painter to do the outside of the car... But I like Patrick Motor sports where they paint the entire car the same color.

Shesh... The choices and the directions to go.

Thanks all.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 6 2009, 06:09 PM

Well, I had it sand blasted. The guy came to my house with a buddy. We dragged it to the back 40, put it up on crates and got him started. It took him about 2:15 to do the entire car. He made sure that he didnt sit in one spot for to long to ensure no warping occured. I didnt realize there was so much bondo on the car... But now... There isnt even DIRT on the car. = )

Eric

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Posted by: john grier Nov 6 2009, 07:09 PM

Hey there Eric,
What you are doing is admireable. biggrin.gif
To atempt such a project and do it so fast. smile.gif
Keep it going and have a beer3.gif
popcorn[1].gif
John

Posted by: Cheapsnake Nov 6 2009, 07:13 PM

Welcome to the madness Eric and congrats on the purchase. From the looks of it you did very nicely on the deal. Most of us would kill for those longs on a project car, but I'm not sure about that engine lid support.

As for "not knowing what you're doing", you've come to the right place because none of us know what we're doing. If we did, we'd be doing something else. However, collectively, we manage to keep each other out of trouble.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Tom

Posted by: Cire Nov 6 2009, 08:39 PM

QUOTE(Cheapsnake @ Nov 6 2009, 06:13 PM) *

Welcome to the madness Eric and congrats on the purchase. From the looks of it you did very nicely on the deal. Most of us would kill for those longs on a project car, but I'm not sure about that engine lid support.

As for "not knowing what you're doing", you've come to the right place because none of us know what we're doing. If we did, we'd be doing something else. However, collectively, we manage to keep each other out of trouble.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Tom


Thanks Tom and John. = ) Its going to be a tough challenge.

So whats next? I can fix all the holes on the frame and put in the long kit and then the rear stiffening kit and get it all done that way, but what about paint? The car is pretty rough to the touch. It needs an under coat and then a clear coat and then paint? Or is it under coat, paint and then clear? The car is just going to be a daily driver and an autocross car. I am going to get it painted without adding any bondo to the car. It has a couple rough spots but for the most part looks good. Anyway... Onward and upward. Tomorrow I will start fixing holes and rust spots and see where we end up. =)

Thanks again.

Eric

Posted by: Cheapsnake Nov 7 2009, 06:58 AM

No disrespect to this forum but if you're looking for basic paint advice, check into paint101.com. It's a board specifically for autobody painting and has a ton of good info and a bunch of pros to answer almost any question you have. Beyond that, this board is invaluable for paint advice specific to the 914. I wish I could give you some of that advice based upon experience, but I'm at least 6 months away from that point.

Doing your own paint job is a great experience and you won't regret it.

Tom

Posted by: my928s4 Nov 7 2009, 08:57 AM

Nice job on the sandblasting, sure wish I had done it that way looking back.

Posted by: Cire Nov 14 2009, 09:23 AM

= ) Things are moving along. Are these added or factory? Need some input team. = ) Dont want to start putting a stiffening rear kit in if these are going to be in the way.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 14 2009, 09:26 AM

I just got the Engman Long Internal Kit installed. Looks good. Neat stuff. Easy to do.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 14 2009, 09:29 AM

Stiffened the rear support and fixed the trunk area.

Eric

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Posted by: PanelBilly Nov 14 2009, 10:29 AM

Put your door back on, RIGHT NOW. Before you go any further, make sure they still fit properly and that the body is in alignment. If the cars is twisted in any way from the addition of the longs, this is the time to address the fix. Also I would start blowing out the extra sand. I can't tell you how many times I used the air line and vacume to clean out the sand from every nook and cranny.

Have you paid a visit to your local auto paint store yet. These guys can be so helpful with advise. Pick a line of products and stay with it. They can help you figure out what fillers go with what primer and paint so the products stick.


Posted by: Cire Nov 14 2009, 07:05 PM

Here is the fixed hole where the AC unit used to be. Not as pretty as I would like but will be plenty strong for AX.

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Posted by: Cire Nov 14 2009, 07:07 PM

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Posted by: JRust Nov 15 2009, 02:00 AM

Nice work & quick! Way to tear into it biggrin.gif

Posted by: SECHSER Nov 15 2009, 02:07 AM

wow! very inspiring.. thank you for sharing the pics!! piratenanner.gif

Posted by: plymouth37 Nov 15 2009, 12:51 PM

I wish I could be half as productive as you are, Nice work!

Posted by: Cire Nov 18 2009, 08:26 PM

QUOTE(plymouth37 @ Nov 15 2009, 11:51 AM) *

I wish I could be half as productive as you are, Nice work!



Here is how the front trunk came out with a little primer. I will seal around the edges with Sealer and that should help the looks a bit. = )

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 18 2009, 08:30 PM

I decided to brace the sitting area. Here is my work. = )

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 18 2009, 08:32 PM

I also decided to build a Rottisserie.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 18 2009, 08:37 PM

More on building a rotisserie.

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Posted by: Cire Nov 18 2009, 08:40 PM

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Well, I guess I have reached my upload limit. = ) Now I get to go through and start deletting all the old photos...

=- )

Eric

Posted by: PH1 Nov 18 2009, 09:20 PM

Can you give me an idea of how many hours it took you to dismantle the car? I have to do this soon and will have a deadline but I'm not sure how much time it will take to completely dismantle the car.

Posted by: Cire Nov 18 2009, 10:24 PM

QUOTE(PH1 @ Nov 18 2009, 08:20 PM) *

Can you give me an idea of how many hours it took you to dismantle the car? I have to do this soon and will have a deadline but I'm not sure how much time it will take to completely dismantle the car.


I think it depends on how you do it. I took pictures of wires and connections. I labelled things and bagged all the little items. I think you could do it in a week taking your time and probably 2 days if it was just get it apart type stuff. = )

Hope this helps.

Eric

Posted by: PH1 Nov 18 2009, 10:39 PM

QUOTE(Cire @ Nov 18 2009, 10:24 PM) *

Hope this helps.

Eric


Thanks, but I will probably need to count on about four times that at my slow pace and with my lack of experience. I want to take pictures and label everything as well but I have no experience in taking cars apart. I have enough trouble keeping them together.

Kelvin

Posted by: Cire Nov 19 2009, 06:54 AM

QUOTE(PH1 @ Nov 18 2009, 09:39 PM) *

QUOTE(Cire @ Nov 18 2009, 10:24 PM) *

Hope this helps.

Eric


Thanks, but I will probably need to count on about four times that at my slow pace and with my lack of experience. I want to take pictures and label everything as well but I have no experience in taking cars apart. I have enough trouble keeping them together.

Kelvin



LOL Me either. This is my first one and I am terrified. I have parts from one end of the garage to the other. Every shelf is full. The wiring harness is 40 feet long and in a corner jeering at me every time I walk by. And to top it off, I add more and more to it. A rottiserie is big and takes up lots more space.

Its a big project... But what the hell. = )

If I can help let me know.

Eric

Posted by: Gint Nov 19 2009, 09:04 AM

That's a Delphi car! Going to paint it the factory color?

Posted by: Cire Nov 19 2009, 11:16 AM

QUOTE(Gint @ Nov 19 2009, 08:04 AM) *

That's a Delphi car! Going to paint it the factory color?


I wonder how much paint will be? I am on a budget so it makes it a little tough. I would love to paint it this color. = )

Eric

Posted by: Cire Nov 20 2009, 05:24 AM

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Posted by: Cire Nov 20 2009, 06:42 AM

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Posted by: strawman Nov 20 2009, 09:46 AM

Nice progress! I would suggest that you consider widening the stance of the engine stands of your rotisserie. There's a lot of mass moving when you turn the car. While you're at, you might also consider increasing the height so that you can get the car fully vertical -- as it sits right now, I am pretty sure it is not high enough and the body will hit the stands and/or ground. Finally, connecting the two stands together will give it better stability, especially if you need to wheel the thing over cracks/lips in the concrete. Keep up the great work!

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Nov 20 2009, 11:32 AM

agree.gif
Widen the stance. You really don't ever want it to tip.

Also, put in t a cross bar between the two engine stands. This ties it all together and allows you to move the car around on the Rot in your shop. Very helpful in my build. I tried to do it your way first (no cross bar) and the whole thing almost folded the first time I tried to push it.

Here is how I did it, using the same building blocks that you are using:
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With the cross bar...
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Posted by: SirAndy Nov 20 2009, 11:38 AM

QUOTE(Cire @ Nov 18 2009, 06:40 PM) *

Well, I guess I have reached my upload limit. = ) Now I get to go through and start deletting all the old photos...

Uhmmm, no ...

The upload limit is per POST, not per thread ...
shades.gif Andy

Posted by: bigkensteele Nov 20 2009, 12:39 PM

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 20 2009, 09:32 AM) *

agree.gif
Widen the stance. You really don't ever want it to tip.

Also, put in t a cross bar between the two engine stands. This ties it all together and allows you to move the car around on the Rot in your shop. Very helpful in my build. I tried to do it your way first (no cross bar) and the whole thing almost folded the first time I tried to push it.

I was at HF this morning looking at engine stand for this various purpose. I was wondering how to to solve the problem with the slight upward angle of the pivot, and then I come home to see this! Fortuitous.

Would a 110v mig welder be sufficient to build a rotis, or would I need to hire a local welder to come out and put some heavy beads on it?

Posted by: Cire Nov 20 2009, 05:08 PM

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 20 2009, 10:32 AM) *

agree.gif
Widen the stance. You really don't ever want it to tip.

Also, put in t a cross bar between the two engine stands. This ties it all together and allows you to move the car around on the Rot in your shop. Very helpful in my build. I tried to do it your way first (no cross bar) and the whole thing almost folded the first time I tried to push it.

Here is how I did it, using the same building blocks that you are using:


With the cross bar...



All taken care of sir. = ) It is stronger with that piece connecting the two engine stands. Having the car on the rottisserie really gives you some different looks at the cars. Things you didnt see before jump out at you now. Its also much easier to get to some things. I cant wait to start the electrical with the car in the air. I can put it on its side and work standing up verses bent over. = )

Good stuff. Here are more pics.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Nov 20 2009, 05:10 PM

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Posted by: Cire Nov 20 2009, 05:12 PM

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Posted by: Lou W Nov 21 2009, 04:19 AM

Looking great, keep up the good work. beerchug.gif

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Nov 21 2009, 11:43 AM

QUOTE(bigkensteele @ Nov 20 2009, 01:39 PM) *

I was at HF this morning looking at engine stand for this various purpose. I was wondering how to to solve the problem with the slight upward angle of the pivot, and then I come home to see this! Fortuitous.

Would a 110v mig welder be sufficient to build a rotis, or would I need to hire a local welder to come out and put some heavy beads on it?


YES! I used a 110 on mine, and it worked like a champ. I used the hottest heat setting and a wire speed of ~3.

You have to do a little geometry to correct the stupid HF engine stand angle.
And I put a big cutting disk on my electric mitre saw to cut the stock perfectly. it is SO much easier to weld up 1/8inch wall clean steel then sheet. The whole thing went together like a dream.

AND, when I sold it I made ~ $100 profit too (over the cost of parts).

Zach

Posted by: Cire Nov 30 2009, 07:38 AM

I got 90% of my welding done. Most of the holes are filled. All the rust has been removed except the small corner on the flag that I will tackle this week. My next challenge is the tunnel from the under side... do I need to fix it? The car worked great driving it but I dont want to have to open it up again later...

Here are some pictures. = )

Eric

It looks as though they hit a rock and the car bounced on it down the tunnel area... So there are really 2 maybe 3 areas that need to be pulled out if thats what needs to be done...

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Posted by: Cire Jan 31 2010, 07:54 PM

More pictures....

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Posted by: Cire Jan 31 2010, 07:56 PM

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Posted by: Cire Jan 31 2010, 08:05 PM

On the third picture... Where it shows the rear stiffening kit installed... I added an extra piece to extend the kit all the way down past the support. Figured it would just help make things a bit stronger.

I talked to Brad and got his Chassis stiffening kit. I cut the jack tube out in preperation for the kit thats coming in the mail. = )

Engman Internal Long Kit
Rear Stiffening Kit
Brad Mayer External Chassis Kit
Tangerine's Ear stuffening kit
Tangerine's Front sway bar support
19 MM Front Sway Bar
Bilstien Gas Charged Struts
140 LBS springs in the rear
Koni rebuilt adjustable shocks in the rear

.... Hope its strong enough to handle the stock 1.7 with baby webers I am installing in her.... LOL

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Jan 31 2010, 08:07 PM

Where we started....

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Where we are....

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Posted by: bcaschera Jan 31 2010, 11:40 PM

Good work!! If i were to post a where it was ... where it is photo you would be hard pressed to find what i have done dry.gif damn El Nino

Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:41 AM

More Pictures. I got the Rob Mayeur Long Kit installed. Nice easy job and it comes out really clean. So the rear end now has the Rob Mayeur long kit connected to a Rear end stiffening kit. The upper arm that has all that extra steel isnt going to budge... I decided not to box my rear trailing arms... I figure I want the car to be more solid than I can stand and the arms be weak. That way if I slide into a curb, it might only be changing a rear trailing arm not bending the frame. Good stuff.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:43 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:45 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:46 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:48 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:49 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:51 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:53 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:54 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:56 AM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 07:58 AM

Argggg I got a 911 a arm verses a 914... Spent hours cleaning, pulling out the bushings, painting putting it all back together to find out.... headbang.gif IT WASNT RIGHT!!! = ) And so it goes....

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Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 09:33 AM

Tomorrow the guy comes to Soda Blast it one more time. This will mean I dont have to use water and acid to prep for painting. Dont like water on a car you are trying to keep from rusting. = )

Once the blasting is done, I will go over the car a few times with the blower and then get ready for the Epoxy Primer. This will allow me to put the car back together and make sure everything is the 100% correct. Once there, I will pull it all apart again, sand it and then paint it, then reassemble it yet one more time. = )

LOL Did I mention I sold my house and all this has to be done in 20 days? Anyone want to buy a project? I am moving overseas and cant take it with me. Incredible car.... Sad but life.

AHAHAHAHAHAH

Eric

Posted by: PH1 Feb 16 2010, 09:39 PM

QUOTE(Cire @ Feb 16 2010, 09:33 AM) *


LOL Did I mention I sold my house and all this has to be done in 20 days? Anyone want to buy a project? I am moving overseas and cant take it with me. Incredible car.... Sad but life.

AHAHAHAHAHAH

Eric


I'm not sure I would have that good of an attitude if I got that close and had to stop. headbang.gif

Good luck! Maybe you can start a new project overseas. I have enjoyed your project thread.

Kelvin

Posted by: Krieger914 Feb 16 2010, 09:55 PM

Awesome work! Please store it or ship with you.

Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 16 2010, 10:01 PM

All that work! Where the heck are you moving? confused24.gif

Posted by: Cire Feb 16 2010, 10:07 PM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Feb 16 2010, 09:01 PM) *

All that work! Where the heck are you moving? confused24.gif



Thanks everyone for the nice words. It is hard to let it go now... I find myself still doing stuff to it inbetween packing and setting up travel stuff. I am going to go travel I think. Nothing holding me down but my own fears. = ) Its funny. Been trying to sell the house for over a year. I get this project to learn and have fun with and then the house sells right when the car gets to a good point. House could have waited an extra month or two.... = ) Let me know if you guys want a project...

Eric

Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 06:55 PM

So the car has the Engman stiffening internal kit... It also has the Mayeur external stiffening kit... But there isnt anything that ties them together. We continue to add things to the outside of the longs to make them stronger but we dont do much to address the seam or the strength of the weld. I wonder if they flex? Anyway, I decided to put a bolt through the long... I put a 1/8 inch thick plate 3 X 3 and welded to it. This will ensure there is constant pressure on the long holding it together. Okay okay.. I have seen ANY other pictures of something like this and it could be silly or maybe not as effective as I dream, but its new... I will let you know how it goes if I get to drive the car before I move. = )

I also welded in a 3 inch wide plate on the bottom of the car. Here are more pics.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 06:57 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 06:59 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 07:01 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 07:02 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 07:04 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 07:06 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 17 2010, 07:07 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 19 2010, 11:59 AM

Door Time. I decided to cut up a door and see about skinning it. Cut it is SOOO much lighter than the regular door. Crazy difference.

ERic

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Posted by: Cire Feb 19 2010, 12:01 PM

QUOTE(Cire @ Feb 19 2010, 10:59 AM) *

Door Time. I decided to cut up a door and see about skinning it. Cut it is SOOO much lighter than the regular door. Crazy difference.

ERic

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Anyone ever done doors before? How much can I take out? Is it better to use Aluminum to skin it or thin gauge steel? Is there anything that needs to be done before you put on the aluminum? I havent done a door before and would love some insuights.

Thanks all.

Eric

Posted by: Cire Feb 19 2010, 12:02 PM

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Posted by: MDG Feb 19 2010, 12:11 PM

The pics in Post 76 . . . that's a long way in a short time! smilie_pokal.gif Great work.

cheers, m.


Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:24 PM

QUOTE(MDG @ Feb 19 2010, 11:11 AM) *

The pics in Post 76 . . . that's a long way in a short time! smilie_pokal.gif Great work.

cheers, m.



Yeah been working on this like made. My house sold so I have 30 days before the house, garage and car are gone. I am trying to get it atleast running/driveable in that time. LOL Yeah right. Anyway, I am also trying to sell the project. I just spent 500 dollars today for Blasting and painting. That doesnt include the 150 for good paint. = )

Here are more pictures.

Eric

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:26 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:30 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:32 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:33 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:35 PM

4 hours of blowing sand out of every hole I could find...

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Here comes the primer/etcher/sealer.... = )

Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:36 PM

Now for the prime-ing.... = )

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:38 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:39 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:41 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:43 PM

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Posted by: Cire Feb 23 2010, 07:44 PM

Tomorrow we shoot the yellow color. = ) Whew... What a shit load of work!!!

drunk.gif

Posted by: oz371 Feb 23 2010, 07:56 PM

Lookin good. Keep us posted! beerchug.gif

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