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Posted by: Gigamight Nov 11 2009, 09:42 PM

So I was working on the project car today. I must explain before anyone thinks I'm an idiot, there was no engine in the car, and no cables, wiring etc.

So I was working on some real crappy work the PO did on the rear of the firewall, and something seemed to be missing..... finally found it by using a cutoff wheel to remove the top portion of the tunnel. My clutch tube has been jimmyjacked. It was cut about 14 inches before the firewall. there are no welds holding it in.

So I need to do some clutch tube work. Any suggestions? Please start at the beginning, after all, remember I am the guy who was working on the car for quite a while before he realized there was no clutch tube exiting the firewall. So, taaaaaalk sloooooooowly.

Posted by: underthetire Nov 11 2009, 10:06 PM

From AA
http://www.autoatlanta.com/tech/clutch_tube_repair.html

Or http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28313

Posted by: r_towle Nov 11 2009, 10:10 PM

Get a MIG welder and practice how to weld.
I guess I would have to see it, but from what you said, you are missing about 14 inches of clutch tube....

I would see if you can either find a whole clutch tube from a parts car, or plan to make your own.
You can open up the tunnel from below (ask Dave Dyer for a picture of the tunnel) and replace the whole tube from below.

Rich

Posted by: Dr Evil Nov 11 2009, 10:21 PM

Can you find a tube that is slightly larger in diameter than the original, 14in long or so, and could just slide over the original while leaving enough to weld to the wall?

Posted by: Gigamight Nov 12 2009, 09:28 AM

Thank you for those links, I searched and searched.... Those will be very helpful.

Posted by: Gigamight Nov 12 2009, 09:31 AM

I know what you're saying, but without completely opening up the tunnel, I can't show you very well with pics.

Let me ask this; does the clutch tube originally run the entire length of the tunnel? Or does it stop before it reaches the front end? Because the tube is jammed all the way to the front end of the tunnel right now, and I can only wiggle it, can't get it to slide.

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Nov 12 2009, 09:39 AM

Does this picture help?




Attached image(s)

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Nov 12 2009, 09:44 AM

The tube is welded at 3 points. The rear firewall, The bridge in the middle and at the front. The tube is 12 mm OD with 9mm ID. McMaster Carr has it.

Posted by: Gigamight Nov 12 2009, 09:51 AM

Kinda....

Thanks for the pic by the way.

I still can't quite tell, where is the front end of the tube in relation to the front end of the tunnel? Does it stop at the side opening, or behind that spot?

I'm sorry for being slow on this guys, really, but it's like figuring out a puzzle without the picture on the box. Except in this case I actually do have pictures.

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Nov 12 2009, 10:37 AM

That picture was taken on a car on a rotisserie. This explaines the wierd view. Front of the car / tube is the top right of the picture. There are 4 tubes. 2 for the heater cables. One for the clutch (larger tube) and the accelerator cable. The accelerator cable tube and the clutch tube are welded at the front. I believe the clutch tube in the lower one (not sure). The front weld is the first to fail. Now it's your turn. Show us a picture of your problem.

Posted by: Gigamight Nov 12 2009, 10:50 AM

All right, I am going to bite the bullet and start cutting the tunnel stem to stern. I'll get some pics and hopefully make some sense of what happened.

I do know this; the PO tried to fix it. There is a bracket of sorts that is not original that has been bolted to the floor of the tunnel. Obviously not a good fix.

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Nov 12 2009, 10:56 AM

Stem to stern? Maybe a little too much. The view I sent is the bottom view of the car. The tubes are not welded to the floor pan. The middle bridge is welted to the top of the tunnel as are the tubes for the clutch and accelerator (or should be). You cannot easily just remove the tunnel. You are better off cutting off sections. Show a pic.

Posted by: rick 918-S Nov 12 2009, 11:02 AM

I went to an industrail supply house for truck and hydrolic parts. Semi trucks use a steel line for there air brakes that is a large diameter. Otherwise Mark had the right idea with McCarr Master.

Posted by: burton73 Nov 12 2009, 11:16 AM

You need to put copper in the front of the tube to absorb the heat so the weld does not go into the tube making a bump that will give you a problem with the cable later. . The same with the back. Be careful in the center, as you cannot get the copper up there. Or I could not.

Bob

Posted by: r_towle Nov 12 2009, 06:48 PM

The tube stops up in front of the shifter about 10-12 inches.
If yours is jammed up front it could be it slid forward and you need to pull it back.

Rich

Posted by: ThinAir Nov 19 2009, 11:32 PM

Don't cut so much! Take another look at 2nd link that underthetire posted. I included pictures with a tape measure to show the position and size of the flaps to cut. They are measured from the shifter hole for the front and from the firewall for the back. These flaps will open up access at just the right points.

Posted by: Greenguy Nov 24 2009, 11:18 PM

Here is a picture that I took a couple years ago when I repaired mine...hope its of some help

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Nov 25 2009, 08:52 AM

That is one incredible shot!