Thought I'd throw up six shots (in three posts) of where, and how, I installed the fuel access panel form a late model (75/76) into the firewall between the front trunk and the fuel tank recess, in my 1970 914.
Prime and paint the edges and holes that you cut.
Very nice and professionally done Ken. Think you'll start a new trend now
Awesome. make sure you round off the metal you just cut with a grinder or a file. You don't want to slice a finger or fuel line on a sharp jaggie.
Zach
Used a file on the edges right away. May even glues some caps or pieces of plastic tubing over the backs of the screw holes so the protruding sheet metal screws can't touch the fuel lines either.Really shouldn't be a problem, but may just do it to be extra careful.
Ken how about JB welding on some nuts on the back wall so you don't need the sheet metal screws? Think that would work?
Sounds good to me. You like JB better than epoxy?
Why?
Sheet metal screws work like a champ in this application, and have for 30+ years. And JB might not hold when torqued and vibrated against constantly.
K.I.S.S.
Zach
Zach...I'd trust you 100% if it weren't for the ends of the mustache turning up like that..that Snidely Whiplash thing. If I promise to stay with the sheet metal screws will you promise not to tie my car to the railroad tracks?
Consider http://www.mcmaster.com/#nut-certs/=4phtrv. You've already got the hole locations started, you could make them big enough to install the rivets. Then you could use machine screws to attach the mount to the firewall.
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I'd go with a nut clip. Cheap and easy without the sharp point next to your fuel line. You don't need the nut cert (riv-nuts) tool either. I've had them spin on me.
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Yeah...maybe...
The factory used sheet metal screws. Why get fancy?
A couple things that have helped me with sheet metal screws.
When re-installing a sheet metal screw, put the tip in the hole and press down lightly, the turn counter clockwise until you feel it click, then turn clockwise. This lines up the threads so you don't cut new ones.
I was working on a customer's car and showed him this tip. He sells medical hardware for bone implants and joint repair and said this is exactly the same thing they teach the Dr's to align the threads on the bone hardware.
The other thing I've done is tap the sheet metal by drilling the hole 1/8" smaller than needed, and then bugle the hole with a tapered punch to the correct size needed for the tap, using the correct size drill bit (for the tap) as a guide.
Ok...I coated the bottom of the whole fuel tank well with POR15. I sued rubber grommets to "cushion" where the new fuel line exited as well as where the hot wire for the fuel pump exits the old return line hole.
thread -serts just to give one more option you don't need
seriously, looks great.
I really like the roofing sheet metal screws for this type of thing, the screw has a nice gasket washer built in, and you can get it in dicolors, such as green, to match your car.
I like the Low Profile, Lap Tek from Mueller roofing metal: http://www.muellerinc.com/index.php
Lotsa good ideas...keep 'em coming for the next newbie who does this. Pretty much every aspect of what I did could be done differently, and mostly better. I have a list of projects a mile long and just can't wait until I gain the knowledge and advice on every aspect of every move I make. Hell...some advice I get is conflicting, of course, and I just have to jump in and get things done. I am never offended my critique, and others will profit from it...as I did!
Ken, nice work, just bought a 84 928S as my next project, can't stay away from them Porsches' !
It was my wifes idea, really
Nice. I love that you've had your other one almost 30 years. Always wished I'd kept one of my cars that long. Have you kept the '81 in good shape throughout?
Good work Ken!
I just picked up one of the Carter pumps so we can do pressure and flow volume tests, and so we fully understand the connection possibilities.
That way we can offer the best recommendations in advance to people who want to use these pumps, either at the rear or the front location.
Ok, I'll bite.
Why?
I put my fuel pump there as well and never even thought about doing this. The gas tank is so easy to remove... ???
-Steve
Thanks Chris. Looking forward to the results of your testing so I can start redoing my work!
The access panel is even easier to remove, and the tank doesn't have to be emptied. Hey...a zipper is easier than a button fly, but ever since I caught myself 40 years ago...sometimes you go easy sometimes you go not so easy.
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