Both of the IDF 40 carbs had float ears that were broken, filed smooth, and then had the pin epoxied in place.
The epoxy was clearly not fuel safe, as the pin pulled free w/o any effort on my part.
Is this salvageable? Could I keep the pin in with Quick Steel?
My other option is scavenging the carb tops off my IDF 44s. Will they fit properly on the top of an IDF 40? I'd like not to do this, though, if possible.
Where could I buy another set of carb tops if I needed to. Ace?
These carbs were a MESS. Lots of varnish, and lots of carbon. I bet they were lean on whatever engine they were on, and popping all the time.
Zach
Sure you could save it. Make a new piece, drill and tap the lower section and put a couple small screws in it to hold it back together. I wouldn't try to glue it. If you cant do it yourself, mail it to me and I can do it on a bridgeport tuesday nights.
Yuu should be able to get someone with a TIG to build that up, then file it into shape and re-drill it, but check with Art at ACE first. Most carbs that are lost to corrosion crap out the bowls, so he'll probably have an extra top around, and maybe cheaper than having someone TIG it.
Trying to TIG weld potmetal is probably like trying to weld s*#t. It ain't gonna happen.
The Cap'n
What about pinning it? Glue them back together and then use a drill press to drill two small holes that you could tap. Two small allen heads sunk in there should hold it.
i recomend you replace it . is your top the taper (early) or the later straight cut intake? both pictured
used 40 top for 40.00
pm me if you want it.
james
Attached thumbnail(s)
This stuff will work, I used to to repair a 1937 Studebaker grill.
http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html
JB weld has held those ears together for years in both my webers...
Truly.
I may have been unclear.
Its not in two parts. What I posted the pic of is all I have. The pin was epoxied directly to what was left of the ear. Both carbs are the same. As if the PO did it on purpose.
I think I better just replace them.
Zach
Ah, I would make a piece of metal and place it over it with a screw. But I am ghetto at times, Dawg.
Looking closer, the the DAPO (not you Todd, I am sure you did not do this) actually CUT the ears like then, and broke them off at the bottom. And then glued the pin back in.
WTF! Seriously! This was INTENTIONAL!
Zach
I don't think so...
The slot is factory, and they just snap off right at the base...
One broke when I squeezed it with pliers after I put the pin back in. The other broke while I was extracting the pin. Both looked just like that.
I don't see the slot in the ones that Morph posted, and don't remember a slot in the 44s that I rebuilt - but that does not mean much.
The cut is a full 10 MM. Its supposed to be there? Why?
Zach
I figured it was slotted and broke off at the base. It really won't be a problem to fix in the shop. I'll machine a new piece, drill and tap the exsisting piece and viola your ready to go. The new piece will act like a clamp to hold the pin in. As per our PM, my price can't be beat.
miracle putty.
Or
Get JB Weld that is fuel safe.
Build up the area and drill out for the pin.
If it was me, I would toss them and buy ones that are not broken.
Rich
Either buy the ones Morph has or send them to me Zach. I've done repairs like that before.
They are designed to have a slot with an undersized hole, so the pin is pinched to keep it in place. I doubt they were broken intentionally.
Whatever you do, don't throw them away. If you buy replacements I'll be happy to take those off your hands.
There is no reason to try and spread the two sides to remove the pin. It isn't that tight and should only require moderate pressure to push out of the slot. If you break it you are using the wrong technique - plain and simple.
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