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Posted by: mango-smoothie Dec 12 2009, 02:25 PM

started life as a GE 2L hydraulic lifter engine. ran perfect, excellent compressions, no oil burning, but i was bored and needed a winter project.

so i started to rip it apart the other night. no issues except one valve stem had a weird wear on the end. oil pump gear a little worn too.

heads are in awesome shape. too bad i'm not using them (1.8 41/34mm valve heads in the mail). P/C's were also in great shape (cross hatching still visible).

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Dec 12 2009, 03:17 PM

how are you going to use it? is it an AX car?

Posted by: mango-smoothie Dec 12 2009, 04:27 PM

just a fun weekend car. warm weather, no rain type of setup.

looking for usable bottom end, but good mid range. won't be a high rev-er

Posted by: Mark Henry Dec 12 2009, 05:16 PM

Fuch the 103's, unless you have the coin for nickies stroke it.

Posted by: mango-smoothie Dec 13 2009, 12:03 AM

are the 103's that bad? my crank is mint and i don't really want to stroke it.

Posted by: SirAndy Dec 13 2009, 02:02 AM

Not enough meat on the cylinder walls ...
Andy

Posted by: bobhasissues Dec 13 2009, 03:11 AM

The best receipes (combos) come from from Jake Raby with strict compliance to his specs. He has tested just about everything and could tell you exactly why your speculative motor build will fail or fail to perform.
Check out: aircooledtechnology.com & link to the type iv store as well.
The most informed and proven info you will receive.
For a street driven, stockish redline, torquey cam for a 2056 with single valve springs Jake recommended his 9530 cam to me.
Interesting, that CB oil pump looks like a Melling but I paid $80 for mine.

Posted by: Mark Henry Dec 13 2009, 03:46 AM

Jakes a good good guy and has great stuff, but he's far from the only vendor.
Who ever you get your cam and lifters from they should be a matched set, Jake will only sell you a whole valvetrain kit.

Jake couldn't have sold you a Melling pump and that's a stock pump.
I see the CB link, total garbage pump I have a couple here, worth more to me as scrap.. Get a shadeck, 26mm for small engine up to 2270cc or 30mm for big.

Stay 2056 or spend money.

Posted by: bobhasissues Dec 13 2009, 03:58 AM

I was referring to the pump he's considering buying in the link to CB.

Posted by: Mark Henry Dec 13 2009, 04:01 AM

Realized and editted that, sorry I've hated those pump's since the 80's

Posted by: mango-smoothie Dec 13 2009, 12:46 PM

ok - i do appreciate the comments you guys.


this is one of the build threads i am following:
http://www.danallum.com/aircooled/engine_project.htm

Posted by: Mark Henry Dec 13 2009, 03:02 PM

Ummmm I just noticed you're in Canada, where abouts?

I have a whole stroker kit in the for sale section, I have the pump, galley plugs, case fully preped for a DTM...... you might want to PM me.
I'd make a deal.

Can't help you with the pistons and cam though, already sold

Posted by: mango-smoothie Dec 14 2009, 12:47 PM

thanks for the offer Mark, but that is out of my price range.

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Dec 15 2009, 09:12 AM

AAs 103mm are ok as long as you build it conservative. under 9 compression

Posted by: bobhasissues Dec 15 2009, 12:57 PM

That's a Raby 2056 Kit build sheet

Posted by: mango-smoothie Jan 27 2010, 02:15 PM

update:

tapped and plugged all 11 oil gallies

in the process of getting the crank gear off (what a bitch!)

Posted by: tat2dphreak Jan 27 2010, 02:27 PM

the new crank comes with a new gear, I thought... to be bolted on at time of assembly.

Posted by: Jake Raby Jan 27 2010, 02:38 PM

Thats not an engine parts list- thats a list of what was in my 2008-2009 2056cc engine kit.
Its no longer accurate so it looks like its time to kill those lists, nothing like supplying free parts lists so people can buy their parts from other sources.

They'll be gone in a jiffy!

I am realigning my retail store sales to incorporate more component sub-assemblies than individual parts.. Its hard to provide compatible parts when we aren't supplying all the components and compliance is VERY important. Thats why I only offer complete valve train kits along with camshafts.
We'd be happy to help you design an engine thats effective..

BTW- if you had my engine rebuild DVD you would have learned a very effective way of splitting the case halves without a single special tool and you would have never needed to apply a device directly to any part of the crankcase..

Posted by: HAM Inc Jan 27 2010, 02:51 PM

FWIW the heads in the photo are 2.0 bus heads that have been flycut quite a bit. The scrap man will love them!

Hope the project goes together well!

Posted by: mango-smoothie Jan 27 2010, 05:06 PM

I'm not using the list as a parts shopping list (it's not detailed enough for that).

I do have the bugme T4 DVD as well.

Posted by: mango-smoothie Feb 25 2010, 11:31 AM

not in order thanks to imageshack.

Posted by: mango-smoothie Feb 25 2010, 11:33 AM

ok - i'm making serious progress now...

* cc'd the heads

* created my own gear puller for the T4 gear (i didnt know the crank gears were substantially larger than T1)

* getting the crank gear off was a feat in itself. propane torch, cold garage - two nights, sweat / swear - finally got it off. putting it on was a piece of cake. 400 degrees (after cleaning), bag of frozen peas on the crank end. slid right on.

* balanced the rods to 1g

* picked up new main and rod bearings - redid the crank setup

* modified the HD T1 oil pump to fit the T4

* new pistons balanced to 1g

* shortblock is nearly ready to be closed up. just going to pick up some permatex thread sealant (white stuff) first.

Posted by: mango-smoothie Feb 25 2010, 11:34 AM

pics are kind of out of order due to the way imageshack uploads them (and i'm too lazy to sort them out manually)

Posted by: mango-smoothie Feb 25 2010, 11:35 AM