Printable Version of Topic

Click here to view this topic in its original format

914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Leaking Reverse Light Switches (both purchased new same issue again)

Posted by: detoxcowboy Dec 30 2009, 03:34 PM

Leaking Reverse Light Switches (both purchased new same issue again) Side Shift 74 2.0..

Basically I have bought 2 reverse light switches for my transmission. The first one leaked so I thought factory defect (leaked right out the seam of the plastic for electrical pugs and the base of unit,,) the replacement is doing mor or less the same but maybe more so or less out the unit itself again, not the threads where is mounts.. Any input here appreciated these little guys are 70- 80 $$ each And I do not want to buy a dozen to get lucky ect..

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Dec 30 2009, 04:03 PM

several have complained about the leaking switches. They are the latest factory variety and now probably made in China! Simply return for an exchange. All suppliers guarantee them for a year.
What is really stupid is that five years ago they were in the teens in price and NEVER leaked and were made in Germany!!!


QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Dec 30 2009, 02:34 PM) *

Leaking Reverse Light Switches (both purchased new same issue again) Side Shift 74 2.0..

Basically I have bought 2 reverse light switches for my transmission. The first one leaked so I thought factory defect (leaked right out the seam of the plastic for electrical pugs and the base of unit,,) the replacement is doing mor or less the same but maybe more so or less out the unit itself again, not the threads where is mounts.. Any input here appreciated these little guys are 70- 80 $$ each And I do not want to buy a dozen to get lucky ect..


Posted by: davesprinkle Dec 30 2009, 08:15 PM

I had this problem with 2 new switches. According to another member who also had this problem (sorry, don't remember his name), this happens because the sealing washer isn't the correct thickness. The result is that the switch sits too close to the actuating mechanism and the internal diaphragm gets ruptured the first time the switch is activated.

My solution was to throw away both of my new, ruined switches and to run with an old, known-good switch. But absent an old switch, you'll probably need to shim out your new switch. Sorry, don't know by how much...

Posted by: detoxcowboy Dec 31 2009, 10:55 AM

George your dead on there (as i expected) and Dave I actaullly thought the actuating arm was in to tight and your idea just may be the ticket.. Thank you both..

Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)