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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Removing rocker panels

Posted by: Ian Stott Jan 11 2010, 03:23 PM

James Smith recommended removing the rocker panels to check for rust and I am finally getting around to it, the three flat tip screws on the bottom are not cooperating and I'm resisting taking the vice grips to them, any suggestions? I ordered my new tires today, decided on the Bridgestone Potenzas, they rated very high on Tirerack and fellow enthusiasts gave them a thumbs up, will let you know my impressions after the first 100 miles, which will be at least April unless we have a warm March, which is rare, do I dare say yeah to global warming!

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

Posted by: Spoke Jan 11 2010, 03:38 PM

Vice grips, channel locks, whatever works. Worst case drill them out and re-tap. They're just generic screws.

Just don't remove them with you below the rocker panel as you may be showered with road debris.

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Jan 11 2010, 03:39 PM

QUOTE(Ian Stott @ Jan 11 2010, 02:23 PM) *

James Smith recommended removing the rocker panels to check for rust and I am finally getting around to it, the three flat tip screws on the bottom are not cooperating and I'm resisting taking the vice grips to them, any suggestions? I ordered my new tires today, decided on the Bridgestone Potenzas, they rated very high on Tirerack and fellow enthusiasts gave them a thumbs up, will let you know my impressions after the first 100 miles, which will be at least April unless we have a warm March, which is rare, do I dare say yeah to global warming!

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada


soak overnight in wd 40 then heat up and hit with an impact driver. If they do not budge they will break and you will have to drill and retap them

Posted by: McMark Jan 11 2010, 04:00 PM

agree.gif

An http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver is your best friend here. If it doesn't get them out, they're not coming out. Soaking with PB Blaster or a 50%-50% ATF-Acetone mix first will greatly increase your chances.

Posted by: warrenoliver Jan 11 2010, 04:02 PM

Ian,

I had the same problem and came up with a simple solution that worked well for me - YMMV.

I jacked up both sides of the car about 15" and put it on jackstands front and rear. Then I took a big screw driver with a square or maybe a hexshank (not a round shank). I positioned my hydraulic floor jack under the screw and placed the screwdriver in the screw head. I then slowly raised the jack until I was pushing the screwdriver into the screw head with a lot of pressure. I used a crescent wrench on the square (or hex) shaft and was able to crack the screws loose. Once loose, I dropped the jack out of the way and turned them out.
I wouldn't have had to lift the car first but my screwdriver was too long to get under there with the jack.

Hope that helps - just a little bit of farmboy engineering sawzall-smiley.gif

Warrenoliver


Posted by: tod914 Jan 11 2010, 06:11 PM

flat tip socket will give should give you the leverage you need.

Posted by: jeeperjohn56 Jan 12 2010, 03:41 AM

Hey Ian, I had the same problem you had, I soaked over night with penetating oil, but still had to use vice grips on two. AA has the new instalation kit that has all new screws rubber washers and everything else you need, well worth the price. John driving.gif

Posted by: mtndawg Jan 12 2010, 08:02 AM

It would be interesting to see pics when you take them off before and after you clean.

Posted by: Ian Stott Jan 12 2010, 03:53 PM

Thanks for all the tips will take pics and post.

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

Posted by: windforfun Jan 12 2010, 04:28 PM

Careful with the center hole. Don't go sticking anything too long up there to align the panel. You can puncture the heater duct. FYI.

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 12 2010, 08:00 PM

agree.gif with everything posted above. However, no one mentioned the posibility of the nut breaking. When I removed mine, one of the nuts broke loose. It felt like it was tack welded. Are they? I don't know. But a 1/4" rivenut was a great replacement. The only thing I need to remember is that it is SAE so I have one screw that is SAE to match.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jan 12 2010, 08:18 PM

QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Jan 11 2010, 01:39 PM) *

QUOTE(Ian Stott @ Jan 11 2010, 02:23 PM) *

James Smith recommended removing the rocker panels to check for rust and I am finally getting around to it, the three flat tip screws on the bottom are not cooperating and I'm resisting taking the vice grips to them, any suggestions? I ordered my new tires today, decided on the Bridgestone Potenzas, they rated very high on Tirerack and fellow enthusiasts gave them a thumbs up, will let you know my impressions after the first 100 miles, which will be at least April unless we have a warm March, which is rare, do I dare say yeah to global warming!

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada


soak overnight in wd 40 then heat up and hit with an impact driver. If they do not budge they will break and you will have to drill and retap them



"Soak overnight in wd 40" Why? What good could that possibly do? WD 40 is a water displacer, NOT a penetrating oil. It's NOT intended to be used as such. There are a number of fine products out there that are designed with this very job in mind ............... The Cap'n

Posted by: championgt1 Jan 12 2010, 09:26 PM

agree.gif

This is your friend.

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