I began trying to diagnose a part throttle miss....idles great...takes throttle great....hold throttle at almost any RPM and it misses.....seems to not miss as bad at higher RPM....its carbed...
Checked the folowing:
Timing
Fuel pressure...
Started to mess with the what I like to call "mixture thumbscrews" until the miss got a bit better but still not gone....A friend told me to try pouring some "Seafoam" in with the gas on the next fill up....AND although Im not a big "magic elixer" will fix it guy.... Everyone I asked said this Seafoam stuff worked for them (4 people out of 4 gave good reviews) and so....I poured a bottle of this stuff in....and WHAM...miss is almost completely gone.....and improving seemingly the more I drive it
Hey...whatever works I guess..So now Im planning an hour long drive to and from Tacoma....in the near future....
Ok so now the two questions...
1) How do I identify what Webers I have?
2) Is the fuel expansion tank standard equiptment on all 914 that came with Fuel Injection? And do I need it when I go to a V8 on my other car?
Ok...guess that was really three questions.....
Thanks again for all your help..
Steve
I'm not sure where you started on this but here's my advise. 90% of carb problems are electrical. Specially when you discribe a miss condition while holding RPM's.
1) start with the dizzy, check the shaft for play
2) check the points and condensor, Hell, just replace them but be sure the voltage going to the points is correct and not frying them within the first couple of minutes running.
3) replace the wires. If they are new check them for resistance. I had a set of wires once that was purchased new and had one with poor connection on the terminal. I chased that thing for a week!
4) replace the cap and rotor. If their new check to see a bad wire hasn't caused a miss fire from the cap terminal to the dizz body. (shortest distance to ground and acts like an intermitent miss fire)
5) Check the coil for carbon tracking poor output and corrosion at the connections. Triple check the coil wire.
6) spark plugs should go without saying.. Check for carbon tracking and miss matched colored electrode. That should pin down the errent cylinder.
Be sure your timing is correct and any advance curve you have is working correctly.
THEN start on the carb work from the fuel pressure through the filter then the carb guts.
Good luck.
Rick thanks for the detailed response and your help...everything on your list checks out ok except that I havent checked the resistance in the new plug wires..but Im on it tonight if I can...ill pull the plugs again and look at them too for signs of rich or lean or anything...thanks again
Looked at the carbs again...dont see any ID numbers letters NADA....Where exactly SHOULD these markings be? Again...Im a Chevy V8 guy and new to 914 stuff...so please dont pick on the newbie too bad....Honestly I would like to have the original FI instead of these Webers but...I have what I have...so..
What about the fuel tank questions? Anybody know....Is the fuel expansion tank standard equiptment on all 914 that came with Fuel Injection? And do I need it when I go to a V8 on my other car?
Thanks again you guys...
Steve
On my Weber IDFs, the model and size is stamped at the bottom on one of the flanges (where it bolts to the intake manifold).
The carb tech articles here: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm might help you understand how different jets/components of the carbs affect different RPM ranges...
Seafoam
I told someone else on here to use it a while back, then the Krusty one and I got in to debate about techron.
Seafoam does a great job at getting water out and cleaning.
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