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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ changing fuel pump cam in 1600 dual port
Posted by: pete-stevers Feb 11 2010, 09:38 PM
My old 59 single cab has a 1600 dual port engine ..and I suspect the fuel pump cam is gone...but what do i have to do to change it?
i bought a new pump already
fuel from tank is fine
spark is good
no fuel coming out the carb side of the new pump
push rod has little wear
(i have little aircooled exp, cut my teeth on water cooled)
Posted by: Jake Raby Feb 11 2010, 09:42 PM
Rotate the engine and watch the function of the pushrod..
There are two different styles of pumps and two different pushrods, if the rod and pump do not match the pump won't function.
Also some pumps today have opposite functioning inlets and outlets, you may have the fuel lines attached backward to the new pump..
The cams don't wear... They are part of the dizzy drive pinion
Posted by: pete-stevers Feb 11 2010, 09:43 PM
love this place!! you blink ....and there behold is the answer
thanks Jake
Posted by: P.Rocket Feb 12 2010, 02:14 AM
love this place!! you blink ....and there behold is the answer
thanks Jake
Tell us Steve, what did you find?
ps: always carry a spare pump. I had to do a 15 minute swap last summer on my '71, when the pivot pin on the pump fell out.
Posted by: Bleyseng Feb 12 2010, 08:02 AM
I wanna see pics of this old 59!
Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 12 2010, 08:05 AM
I wanna see pics of this old 59!
Posted by: pbanders Feb 12 2010, 09:07 AM
While we're wating on pics, here's my buddy's dual cab restoration.
http://www.classicvws.com/dblcab.htm
He found it in a fire station's parking lot in Sweeden, had it shipped to the US for the restoration. 
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Feb 12 2010, 09:11 AM
If you attempt to use the short throw pump with the long pushrod, you'll be needing another new pump. The Cap'n
Posted by: aircooledtechguy Feb 12 2010, 10:51 AM
The generator pump (below) requires the longer push rod. Note the actuating lever is higher up inside the pump body (on the bottom)
The alternator style pump uses the shorter push rod. As the Cap't mentioned, you use the long rod with this pump and you'll get one good pump and it'll break on you. Note how the actuating lever actually comes below the base of the pump body. On this pump the upper nipple is the INLET and the bottom nipple is the OUTLET (it's the opposite of how you would logically think they should go).
Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Feb 13 2010, 02:26 PM
The generator pump (below) requires the longer push rod. Note the actuating lever is higher up inside the pump body (on the bottom)
The alternator style pump uses the shorter push rod. As the Cap't mentioned, you use the long rod with this pump and you'll get one good pump and it'll break on you. Note how the actuating lever actually comes below the base of the pump body. On this pump the upper nipple is the INLET and the bottom nipple is the OUTLET (it's the opposite of how you would logically think they should go).
Hey Nate, Is that Brazilian stuff good now or is it "still" crap like in the late 80's and early 90's? If I recall correctly, the parts pecking order went German, Mexico then Brazil. I'm in the need to know cause I'm trying to convince someone to sell me their early bus.
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Feb 13 2010, 02:57 PM
Actually, there are early and late "generator" pumps. Early ones take the long pushrod, later ones the short one. The "alternator" pumps are canted over like the one pictured, and they always use the short one.
Another thing to look for is whether opr not the pivot pin is locked into place. The old pumps had circlips, the late manufactured ones don't, and the pin slides right out after a few weeks or months. Bad news. The last one I bought had a "fix" designed. Unfortunately, I forget what it looked like ................. I've been hitting the ends of the pin with the mig welder.
The Cap'n
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