I'm still having strut woes on the ass-dragger so it's Billy-time.
I took these over to my soda blaster guy and look what I got back. I just wanted to show the miracles of soda one more time here. Spindles were not taped off. Shock shafts were not taped off!
Nothing like factory metal to work with... just amazing results. The smallest of stampings, codes and markings come back to life. Almost a shame to repaint them...
I don't think it's wrong at all. Those look like they just came off the production line!
Ok, I need to go get a soda blaster. Man, those look ready good.
Yeah huh? Almost every time I have something soda blasted, it's like a step back in time. It was one of the coolest things to have my tub soda blasted and see the factory welds on the rear suspension consoules. All of the heat marks and blueing were there hiding underneath the paint.
It felt weird, like I was there just after the guy welded the car.
Yepper... that's why I have one on order... can't wait to do that to my transmission, springs etc... gonna be step back in time. SCHWING
I have one question... how big of an air compressor do you need?
The guy I use has a portable deisel compressor mounted on a trick trailer. He does grafitti and such.
I used to have a 36 gallon portable tank compressor, but its duty cycle didn't allow the nearly continuous running needed for sandblasting. I replaced it with the Home Depot special 60 gallon tank. I used that for sandblasting all the remainder of my Corvette parts. I would guess that soda blasting has similar requirements.
Only major issue I have is moisture... I put a water trap at the end of my main hose and sandblast with a short whip hose connected to it, and I still have to clear out the water a couple of times in a blasting session (east coast humidity FTL).
for Larry.
I have one. I am using it to strip just the top layer of paint from the front and rear trunks and engine bay of the Raspberry car. I'm trying to leave the original finish. Or as much as I can anyway. It works really nice for that.
The blaster you buy should give you required compressor specs, ie. 90 psi @ 10 CFM
looks great, here are my fav. soda blast pics , real factory GT 705, There is another on the dash but the pic is on RoadGlue.
Attached image(s)
WOW !
How much does it generally cost to have an entire bare tub soda blasted, ballpark?
$600 - $1,000 depending on the blaster.
I made the simple one from info on this forum. Did a great job on my trans. Any ideas on how to contain the dust though? I did the trans on my driveway and positioned an industrial fan behind me. My back yard was white by the time I was done.
Water?
Just a heads up gang. This is commercial soda not Arm & Hammer stuff. While you can get a simple gun and shoot Arm & Hammer (good for carbs and small parts), the commercial stuff comes in 50lb bags and you sometimes pay by the bag. The commercial soda has the consistency of large grained sand.
My car was under $600 because we had glass hoods and we DA'd all of the flat surfaces prior to bringing it in. We used soda on both trunks, the engine compartment and the underside.
Are you kidding...no faceshield?
After I used my soda cabinet on a set of carbs the first thought I had was, "where have you been my whole life"
So no, its not wrong imho
Rich
Where does one get the 'soda' .... ??
I was worried about paint/ primer adhesion with soda blasting as I'd read about the chalky residue that it leaves - some say just soap and water will take it off, some say add vineger to neutralize the ph, others talk about the need for elbow grease. The thought of my paint falling off led me to getting glass beads instead for my project. For engines/ carbs, the soda seems the way to go though as it is water soluble.
My car got a vinegar bath. Pain came out perfect.
No, paint.....
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