Big thanks to Craig for helping to facilitate picking up our new 914. Turned out to be a great day and a great drive back home.
914 is better than I would have thought.
Thanks again Craig!
Dan & Michelle
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Looks like a nice 914, congrats!
Back in the saddle again!
good looking car
Thanks! It's been a year since I had my last one. Really missed owning one.
It's really, really clean. Purred like a kitten all 200+ miles home. 111k miles on the OD and everything seems to work.
Interior still smells all 914-ish.
Here are a few more pics, of a really clean 75 914 2.0.
Craig at CAMP
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MORE....
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Can't wait to hear the plans. Congrats Dan, she looks super clean.
that kinda looks familiar.
Good to have you back
T.C.
Picture eyeballs on springs through eye glasses!
Very nice! Never seen a trunk/battery setup like that before.
Nice to see you back Dan & nice ride!
You have the tan interior, my 75 has this and I have been looking everywhere for a replacement seat cover, looks like I will have to switch to black. All european cars were black and mine is a us import....
Nice car....
LOVE the color combo
Congratulations Dan ! Looks like a sweet ride; good to see you back.
beautiful looking car!
big welcome back Dan!!
Dan.
Congratulations! I knew Craig would get you in a nice 914. I would keep that one stock also. Lots of rusty ones to cut up to modify. Damn, I like that interior.
Yea, that battery location is ??. Lead acid battery at the far end of a car is not going to help handling and besides it just looks wrong.
Tom
This is what I have used in a few cars inlcuding some 914's now and even one V8 Fiero:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925.htm
Never has an issue turning over even high compression engines. It's what I'll get for this 914. I just have to decide where to put it. I can pick the PC925 up with one hand gripping it from the top! Crazy how small and light they are.
PC 925 Specs:
925 cranking amps for 5 seconds
870 cranking amps for 10 seconds
765 cranking amps for 20 seconds
Short circuit current over 2400A
28 amp hours
50 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
Female brass terminal w/M6 SS bolt
Length 6 15/32"
Width 6 7/8"
Height 4 7/8"
Weighs 24 lbs
Odyssey design:
Rugged Drycell sealed design
Military grade
Vibration resistant
60% more starting power
Deep discharge reserve power
2 year storage life
8-12 year design life
Can be mounted in any orientation
Congratulations on the car!
Very nice car!!
Welcome back!
man that carpet is UGLY! i'll be right over to take it to the dump for you ...ok?
oh and those seats look just so uncomfortable too, you'll be getting some of those gt seats right? i'll take those seats to the dump for you too ok?
Don't forget SS fuel lines! (Unless Camp914 took care of it for ya)
Awesome ride!
Nate
Great to have you back in the fray, Dan! Great looking car! Sweet interior.
Don't let Troy drool all over it.
Gotta do a Teener Tuesday now.
My first was a white and tan '76 2.0 with steel wheels and chrome rings. I put 205s on it and it handled great!
looks great !!
Sweet
Very nice Dan! Congrats! I look forward to seeing your ride. Maybe tomorrow...
Troy really meant to say that I need those seats! Very nice ride. Congrats!
AttaBoy Dan, good looking car, I like the BUBS. And Craig (for helping out), Kudos to Michelle for supporting Dan in his 914 quest !!!!!!
I think a trip to the Olympic Pennisula is in order!!!! Troy, Jon, Greenie, everyone else (I can't remember), East Sound meets West Sound!!!!
Glad to see you back Dan! It's been a while
Nice. Thats what I hope my 76 will look like soon.
So does that mean the Boxster is down the road?
Dan,
Welcome back!
I am looking forward to Tuesday nights after things slow down for me after April 15th.
Eddie
I'm almost surprised to see you with a 4.
If you keep the carbs, a cam upgrade and Mallory dizzy would wake it up nicely.
Sweet and nimble.
You should come to WCR and take in Tahoe topless.
HEY!! What's with all that water on the car?!!?!
So, I wanted to give an update on the 914 I picked up. Not much has been done to it and it really doesn't NEED anything.
I've been tossing back and forth about keeping it carb'd or going back to FI. It runs really, really good right now and should probably just leave it alone.
My biggest peeve about carbs is the noise. SHLUCK, SHLUCK, SHLUCK! The 914 exhaust note and even wind noise is so low the carb noise overpowers the sounds of everything.
Here is a shot of the current set up, prev pic from Criag....
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One of the things I picked up to try to eliminate the intake noise are these:
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Issue with these 912 air cleaners is the bolt-on pattern is different of course. I knew that when I bought them, and know I could modify them to work and look as though they were put on at the factory. But it'll be work.
I've been looking and cannot find anything that is made for webers that helps to reduce the intake noise. Do rain hats help? The outer foam covers?
Was there ever a euro or ROW dual carb application air cleaner set-up from a Type2 or Type3 I could use? Any advice would be most helpful.
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More moding than the 912 air cleaners I think?
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http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4937
$100 each plus some money spent to have them come to a central filter in the middle. Probably a $300 venture.
Hmm, can I get FI for $300?
Answered my own question, getting these little adapter plates from Weber back to Solex air cleaner adapters.
All I need to do now is clean/paint the housings and wait for these to show up. Be interesting to see how they look in a 914 engine bay.
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So my air cleaner idea went bust when I couldn't get the drivers side to fit.
The carb sits about 2" to far forward making the air cleaner housing hit the firewall. Not sure what I'll do at this point. But for now, I decided to do a quick pull on engine and trans to do clean up, paint and remove the remainder of the AC stuff like compressor etc.
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The dealer installed AC was of course another hack job. Fixing the engine bay shelf won't be that tough. I already have the metal to repair it.
Its the engine tin I don't have. I need that front corner piece and pass 2.0 tin. Otherwise I'll me making my own repair piece which won't turn out as nice.
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Everythings really solid and clean. I'll do some touch-up painting and cleaning where needed, but nothing major going on here.
Mostly just wanted to loose the AC stuff, clean, replace a couple of seals and then get the car back together so I can drive it.
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I really like how the cat quiets down the engine. But I know it's raising the EGT's and the carbs will most likely ruin it. So unti I get FI back on it, I'll pick up a by-pass pipe and install that.
The cat is brand new. PO installed it attemping to pass his local emissions. Still failed due to carbs and not original FI on a 1975 car.
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I did some cleaning up over the weekend, painted what I could.
I really need some engine tin. I'l post something in the classifieds. Kinda my hold up at this point.
Of course I'll re-pack CV's etc. but rear main seal isn't leaking, so tranny is staying connected to engine. Ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Purty Dan! can't wait to see her in person.
What are the 912 air cleaners made out of? Could you cut off the canister and weld it to the top? or put a 90 on the top and have them lay on parrallel to the engine lid?
Thats what I would try.. If they are made of weldable metal.
That or just cut off the canisters, put hoses on each of the holes and direct the air to a home made square box (or pick n pull your favorite) and put a flat paper filter on it..
Another Idea I just had was to cut off the canisters, relocate them, and put a hose to connect them back again!!! That might be the easiest.
In fact if you were uber cool, you could attach the canisters to the engine lid and have the hose have enough slack so that you can open and close the engine lid w/ the canisters attached!!!!
Progress seems slow, but thanks to local guy (Rich), I sourced all my needed tin pieces to repair the damaged ones from the dealer AC install. It surprised me how much a 914 gets hacked up. Holes everywhere, big holes! Tin-snipped sheet metal and engine shelf even. UGH!
Getting back to stock though.
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Since everything over on this side was so solid and only a section was hacked out of the shelf for the AC, I opted to graft in just the part that was cut out. I sourced the weatherstrip rail from Rich and built my own little metal shelf section. Welded, painted, done. That took hours to do.
I didn't weld up the two holes for the AC lines, just found some metal "plugs" at a local hardware store and they snapped into place. Why bother with anything else right now. It'll keep the road grime out of the engine bay.
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Also cleaned up both longs, door jams and all weatherstrip chanels. Everything was cleaned and touched up with white paint.
You can see I need to get the rear fender painted. Looks like a really old repair job that has kinda gone yellow-ish. Most of the rest of the 914 seems to be factory paint.
Goal is back on the ground this friday so I can drive it with other 914-ers to a local car show.
I might see if I can solicit help putting the engine back in. My luck, I'll bend up all that nice tin.
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I also picked up one of these for it:
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And still have to deal with this:
Nice self-tapping sheet metal screws tearing huge holes in an otherwise almost perfect trunk.
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Nice ride Dan! Thanks for letting us come up and wrench with you. See you Sunday!
good to see you are back in the game dan
i hope to get out to a teener tues one day this summer
but we will see
Hey Steve!
No, no, thank you guys for coming up and hanging out! That was fun and a lot got put back together.
I replaced all the cables as well just before you guys showed up. No more jerky speedo needle and smoother clutch operation would be nice. The old cable was binding up a little.
I noticed the pedal cluster has the metal bushings and is all nice and clean. That's a plus!
Hopefully I'll be driving it around Saturday shaking out anything I forgot about.
before Sunday.
Hey pete-stevers you going to join us for the car show this sunday?
Sorry for the hijack Dan!
Got tired last night, still on jackstands.
My goal is still driving tomorrow.
Really close, all engine stuff is 100%, replaced the taco plate seal even. It looked to be the only thing leaking other than the speedo drive off the tranny. But I'll catch that one later.
I must have set that battery in a dozen different places. No matter where I put it, I'm gonna have to drill holes in virgin 914 sheet metal. I'm even thinking about behind the pass seat as Jon sugested or possibly under the pass foot rest? It fits, this thing is so small!
Rear window back in with new seal. Ahhhhhh, no more smack! smack! over bumps.
That and I found 2 more AC line holes.
I'll get some pics up when it's back on the ground.
Decided to install the LE spoiler this weekend and wound up fixing the front trunk hole from the AC.
Got my trunk floor from GPR.
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I actually had two most excellent looking somewhat rectangular looking holes which required the removal of what was left of the original trunk floor.
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Trying to do this right, so I removed the body plugs and of course cleaned them up later.
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New section getting tac'd into place...
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It may not look like it, but the whole floor is correctly butt-welded. I didn't bother cleaning up the welds (grindind flat) because.....well it's the floor of the trunk. So you just don't see it very often. Pretty close match on the light ivory from local parts store. Still not dry in this picture, but really turned out nice.
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I'll wait until tomorrow to install the plugs. Bottom side got many coats of black paint, this is the first coat of light ivory. So pretty much 95% done reversing the evil AC install.
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And in the middle of all this work, we still found time to go check out the Historics (Flight) at Boeing on Saturday. I got a little worried when we had to start driving over the grass. I could hear it cleaning the pan of the 914.
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nice work Dan...
wish I had my '75 out of the body shop so I could be personalizing mine too.
Looks like a pretty nice splice at the openings for the body plugs. You must have done this before.
After the trunk deal is done, I think I'm getting really close to done myself.
I really have to re-think the carbs though. One barrel keeps going "dead" on me. Ugh. Took the top off, cleaned it out, runs on all 4 for about 5 minutes, goes dead. I know this 914 sat for a while, I'll check the fuel system. Might be gunk in the tank, filter etc. gumming up the carb.
Sounds like it's time to go back to injection. My teener had a single progressive that ran gr8, but we sourced all the injection parts and an ms programmable system and it runs even better than before. It even looks stock!
Replaced the fuel pump today, better internally regulated rotary pump. Much nicer.
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Now onto the next little set of projects. Oil leaks. 99% of this is tranny fluid.
The first day I drove it home it left a pretty big puddle of engine oil. When I pulled the engine, I did a handful of seals that seemed to cure those leaks.
Over the last couple of weeks the tranny has started to leave pretty healthy spots wherever I park.
This is about 3 weeks worth.
I have ALL seals coming from PP, surprised they are not here yet. Tomorrow maybe?
Friggen leaks.
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NICE! (except the leaks of course)
At least the transmission is easy to yank out and do all the seals on
I will be resealing Garrett's engine very soon. I have been meaning to go over there but the weather has not been nice when I have had time
I know what you mean about the weather! So far, spring has been a bust.
Execpt today!
Michelle and I have put some miles on the little 914 today (Topped off tranny fluid of course). Oh man, it's nice out!
72 degrees, sunny, top off. Yeaha!
Hi Dan,
Let me know when you are going to do it and I will come help!
Thanks Chris, that'd be fun!
Seals didn't show up over the weekend, so at this point, I plan on a Thursday tranny pull since I have a couple days off this week.
Ok, let me know. If I can squeeze a couple of hours out (and the weather is motorcycle friendly) I will run up and help you!
Yesterday I replaced some seals:
Speedo drive seals
Selector output shaft seal
I didn't have time to pull the tranny to replace the main output shaft seal.
One drive up to operating temps and sitting overnight with a clean sheet of cardboard:
Too much, way too much. It's all coming out the main shaft.
Gotta pull the tranny. Still debating if I'm gonna do it today or not.
I've gone through this before, having a car sit for so long is really worse than just driving and wearing it out.
The good news is I couldn't find any engine oil leaks!
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that looks better than it did before....
I am hoping that my engine and tranny stay like this after I start driving it every day
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Dan,
I had the same problem with intermittent carb clogging. The poor quality of current gasoline combined with the high humidity in the PNW can lead to condensation and therefore water in the bottom of the fuel tank.
My teener even gets driven regularly down to low fuel levels. I had not had the tank out of the car for about three years.
I drained the tank dry using the fuel pump then removed the fillerneck and sure enough, water could be seen in the sump portion of the tank. I siphoned out the remaining fuel/water then wiped up the remnants using a paper towel on a stick.
One more cleaning of the idle jets and the engine has been running great ever since.
Give it a try.
Cheers,
Eddie
Hey Dan, are you pulling the tranny today. I could come help (translation: I need a 914 drive and I could get in your way )
ya sure "Ed's" monster 914-6!!!!!
Picked these up over the weekend:
Going to start the tranny pull today, replace any seals I can and backdate the exhaust. I'm hoping to have everything done this week. It's raining today, but suppose to be back to sunshine tomorrow.
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those SSIs along with a backdated muffler should help a bit in the power department....
and the 1.7 and 1.8 exhuast parts always seem to be a little less expensive to acquire
Pulled the tranny out a couple of days ago. Leaky little bastard. The main seal almost crumbled when I took it out.
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Not planned in this little project, but a set of SSI's came up locally so onto converting the system to pre 75'
I never really paid attention, but the later stuff sure does wiegh a lot.
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Well, it was off jackstands for a while at least.
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The cardboard test from the drive yesterday, proper heat cycle, got out this morning and noted only this on the clean sheet of cardboard.
SWEET!
No more tranny leaks!
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Took the 914 out for a drive around the lake this morning. Very nice out, gonna hit 77 today according to the news.
My opinion on the backdating of the exhaust:
It's worth it in the end, you loose wieght, get a little "seat of the pants" power and with SSI's, clean heat.
The only downside of the system is the volume of noise it makes. It's frankly annoying and raspy. The 75-76' systems are so quiet compared to early SSI's and crapy Bursch headers/muffler.
I know I'll swap that header out for something else, but for now, it's just drive the 914 the rest of the summer.
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My car came from the PO with the Pickle muffler painted with Wurth Zinc spray. Sounds wonderful. Pricey but I cannot think of one exhaust header on my other 2.0L's that I liked.
The one I want is no longer made.
Had one with 4 pipes out and up at the license plate. Can't remember the name, but it was NOT Bursch or Ansa.
The exhaust note was spectacular, but faded into history back in the 70's.
John
John,Probably a Monza.
Dan, about what I figured for power increase, sometimes our ears give us indications that are really not true. When I was a kid we put clothes pins and cards on the forks and man were we fast. At least in our minds.
I have all of that stock stuff also, but have been holding on to it in case the next owner may want to go back to original. Maybe I am wasting my time?
Took mine out yesterday also, great day for some top off driving. Ran great, man those new brakes you did for me are strong and great.
Ha, my trans looked like that when I first got the car. A lot of time in a large tub with some gas melted that crud fairly well. Lots of scrubbing tho'.
Tom
WOW! I like the look of Ed's Monster 914-6.
By comparison, my 914-6 should be considered Eddie's "Frankenstein" 914-6.
Good job on the dry transaxle. Frankenstein needs the same treatment on it's $200 replacement transaxle. It only leaves a couple of drops every week but it's a PITA.
Cheers,
Eddie
When I had a Bursch installed on the 914-6 I could barely hear the exhaust ... over the Weber induction music. Maybe if there was any sound insulation left in the car it would be different. But then again compared to what I have been running - megaphones, MagnaFlow race mufflers or a 911 sport muffler, anything would be considered quiet.
I have been searching for a good compromise between street and track. I currently have a modified 2-in-2-out 911 muffler with 3" outlets. With the passenger side capped, it works pretty well for the street. Wide open it's pretty nasty ... just right for the track!
Cheers,
Eddie
The ethanol they are putting in the gas right now is killing me.
I forgot to put in my couple ounces of stable and made it about 100 miles before the carbs started clogging up again.
Sweet.
Stopped O'l Rich's place and sourced me this:
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Box-O-Ljet
Decided that D-Jet was just too much pressure for me. Gonna go with the flow this time around.
Less "stuff" to the system, that's for sure.
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If you look closely, you can see my support brace by the circut board. I test fitted the aircleaner bracket, looks like that won't be an issue.
The cool center heater fan will be though. I'll have to put back in the original single outlet fan that mounts under the board and aircleaner.
Not a big deal.
Time to source parts, gaskets, lines, hardware and some 912E injectors.
Hey Rich, if you see this, my 75' already has from the factory the threaded bosses for the aircleaner bracket. Also cool and makes sense they'd be there.
Not in a big hurry to do this, but with my new tires and alignment, I'm shooting for this to be a 40mpg 914 now!
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This is a great thread, Thanks!
Found some of the harness had been cut off and then another part cut into.
Friggen people.
My camera battery was just about dead, so sorry for the fuzzy pictures.
Someone used a BIG-ASS-FRIGGEN screwdriver to remove this one, trashed it: (CSV)
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Boy, that's fuzzy! Again, sorry about that picture quality.
I zipped up to a local pick-a-part today and snagged some of the newer style connections from newer VW's.
I replaced the broken CSV blue connector, pretty cool to keep the color coding.
Then I had to splice back into the harnes and solder back on a new loom for the AAR (Black connector, also new style)
At this point, I figured I was pretty much done.
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But wait!
There was more cut wires!
Another bad picture, but the last of the soldering for tonight.
I checked all wires from point to point.
Looks like I got them all now.
Still my 6-pin L-Jet. I was hoping to source a 7-pin so I'd get the temp sensor in the AFM. But I think I'm just gonna stick with this.
I'm already into it bucks and time beyond it's value so any other course of action will just cost more time and money.
I'll keep updating as progress is made.
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Dan, You Won
And yes Ethanol sucks
Once you get the Ljet up and running you will like it. Better idle than Djet and its pretty easy to adjust the AFR with the little screw and big wheel.
Wow that is sweet Dan! Nice lookin ride. How much did u pay if I can ask?
Dan, thanks for the reminder on StaBli add, I forgot when I changed out my gas last week! Also, I have some LJet parts lazing about if you need any just ping me.
Dan,
If the oil seals for the oil fill are the o-ring type ( about 2 inches), I have several you can have.
Tom
Out with the old.
Interesting, the breather box had just the smallest oil film, things were very clean after 5k miles. Nice!
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In with some new:
Nice thing about FI, it's stock and all fits.
2nd time I've done this on this and the last 914-4 I owned. Going from Carbs back to FI. Although my first time with L-Jet.
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I made a little bracket for the ECU so no holes had to be drilled and it's really close to the stock location. No harnes mod's. You can see the double relay and resister pack for the injectors.
That's more than 50% of the entire system done today, sweet!
I would have installed the runners, but I'm waiting on gaskets, hoses etc and still need to drill the center hole so they'll bolt onto the 2.0 heads.
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The intake runners drying after a little painting. I probably should have drilled the center stud hole, but oh well. I'll just be careful, hopefully install these early next week.
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AFM and horn cleaned and waiting to be installed.
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nice work Dan! get that BUB '75 out on the road....the EFI will really make the car more drivable....
Hey Dan, does your fan have the 7.5' timing mark? Not the same as the Djet mark. BTW, I've got a calibration for the airflow meter, position vs resistance, if you want to make a few static checks on the meter.
My wife likes the dancing banana, so this is for her.
Dan, here is a good link for AFM (bus Ljet) adjustment.
http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7761
Dan,
You really need to get a service cover.
Tom
Getting more done, some gaskets showed up yesterday.
When I picked up the FI from Rich, neither one of us knew L-Jet all that well. Turns out the system we snagged off of the donor 914 was missing a few things. The AAV, Decel or anti-backfire vavle and a couple other minor parts.
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As luck would have it, Rich just acquired a 74' 1.8 parts car 914 with the L-Jet intact, but not run for 10 years. Good to source those couple of parts and just look at, take some pictures. Some of the stuff I realized I needed is labeled.
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The AAV valve you can't really see, it's tucked under there.
So far, parts have been installed just minutes ago on my 914, so getting closer!
Still waiting on new fuel line and a bunch of vac lines.
Tomorrow might be a trial fire off with the FI?
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Go Dan, go!! Hope it all works out easy. Well, at least not too hard.
Tom
Got the rest of the parts today, hooked up all the vac lines, fuel lines, return line. Went under the engine, sorted out more fuel lines, replaced the non-german low pressure lines with properly sized German high pressure FI lines etc.
Started to think to myself I might actually fire this thing tonight?
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So up to the front trunk to change out the fuel pump. I remembered there are more low pressure lines that need replacing up there as well as checking the return fuel line is proper and hooked up.
Decided to pull the tank. Start to pull the fuel from the tank, filled both my little cans and both are cars just got tanks filled today.
Well, I still have a couple of gallons in there, gonna have to wait until tomorrow maybe. Gotta go use some gas first!
Driving my Monster-Square so that otta use some.
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pour that gas on the weeds and lite it up that'll kills the weeds!
Had the same problem when I pulled my tank. Filled a couple gas cans, rhodyguys gas can, lawnmower, edger.................
Dan,
Like the idea of your holder you made for the ECU, any better picts so I can fab my own imitation?
Dave
Hah, thats why I keep my 78 F250 with twin tanks! That thing is great for getting rid of old gas as it will burn anything! 20 year old gas and it runs fine....
Pulled the tank last night, replaced lines, fuel pump, put tank back in, put some fuel back in, hooked the battery back up.
Crank, crank, crank, crank
Hmm, nothing
More cranking
More nothing.
Hmm.
Doh! Forgot to hook those little ground wires on the engine block from the FI harnes. Duh!
Crank, VROOM!
Drove it around last night for a little while, filled the tank. I know I have to adjust for a 1.8 FI system on my 2.0, but seems pretty smooth.
One issue I have noticed, my throttle takes a Looooooooooooooooooooong time to return to idle. It's smooth, just seems to take forever, like I don't have a spring. I do have a spring from the arm to the plenum. Should there be another spring?
Anyone have any pictures of L-Jet throttle return srping set-ups? Maybe I don't have it on correctly?
In the end, I'm really glad I bought new injectors, all new fuel and vac lines and a new fuel pump along with other little things. Eliminates many possible issues.
I did drive it into work today, started right up this morning, nice idle. Sans the throttle return issue and just setting it for 2.0 liters, I think it's good to drive!
I just checked, got it hooked up correctly.
I know it doesn't really do much of anything.....well, books say it eliminates backfire on decel.
I have some caps and will plug it off when I get home, see what that does. If it pops or backfires on decel, I'll buy a new one and install it. If it runs and sounds good under all conditions, I'll just leave the ports plugged off and not put one back in the system.
I think most of the D-jet systems I've had, I've removed the decel valve. Never seemed to make a difference.
Nice job Dan! Interesting to see what the mileage will be. How about power? About same, up or down?
Tom
Thanks for the link again Geoff.
That helped me do a little Static and Dynamic adjusting. Runs pretty smooth and seems pretty strong. Fires off every time.
Time to start logging the fuel economy.
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I forgot to mention I was able to correct the slow to return idle issue. It was nothing more than the TB shaft being a little gummed up from sitting for who knows how long.
Decel valve was taken out of the system, then put back in when I determined it wasn't the culprit.
Snaps back to idle just fine now, no popping on long decels, everything seems to be doing what it's suppose to.
should be the same timing, 27 BTDC at 3500rpms hoses off and plugged. Then when its at idle 7.5 BTDC with the hoses on....
Should get ya more hp and torque as the timing has to be spot on.. Check when its all done and see if the timing is advancing...and the fuel pressure regulator is pushing the psi up at WOT...like 42lbs. With Ljet if the vac hoses are quite right you won't get the WOT mix right due to improper vac to the regulator...no extra fuel...
Ah, that makes sense.
The "022" dizzy has no vac pots, thus they are capped on the TB right now.
I have a pressure gauge and will check my pressure at idle and WOT, see if there is any changes. I'll look up and verify specs as well.
The biggest difference between carbs and FI is the smoothness, especially in low RPM's and when cold and starting the engine under all conditions. I love the simplicity of carbs, but it's hard to beat even just the couple of sensors FI has to change the delivery depending on the needs.
Something carbs just can't do.........carbs really do suck!
Just wait until you get it all working right! Hah, it will make a great DD for you...
Mine starts right up even when it is 20 degrees outside!
The Ljet will be smooth too with lots of torque once you get the WOT and dizzy right. I love it in my Westy..
Wow, nice car Dan. I have a carbed 2.0 sitting in my garage but my stock L jet 1.8 runs so good I cant get up to replacing it. I get ~ 38mpg all highway.
I ran through the first tank of fuel, but won't start logging mileage until it's a little more tuned, which is this tank.
Geoff is correct, it's pretty amazing the amount of torque the L-Jet provides. The idle and low RPM driving is so smooth.
I'm still running points and will convert to the electronic points when I install the factory ign dist.
I've been having fun putting my foot into it, so mileage really won't be stellar these first couple of tanks. I'll post results anyway. After the newness wears off of having FI, I'll chill out and see what kind of "normal" driving can achieve.
Haha, told you so! Now when are you going to put a Raby Cam in it? Jump upto 115hp and really rock.
This thread is a good inspiration for all those 1.8L Ljet 914's out there! Thinking of going to dual carbs, forget it! Retain the FI and go 2.0L or 2056 with your Ljet and really have some fun and still it looks totally stock! The Ljet makes for a nice Daily Driver setup, soo smooth.
Yeah, yeah, you and Troy can rub this one in, you've earned the rights to it.
I think as long as you have a correct cam, the displacement isn't much of a factor. If you really wanted the ability to feed bigger engines, it's a simple matter of making sure your intake runners will support the flow along with injectors. The rest of the system is just simple math.
We'll see how it fairs over time, my guess will be nothing less than great results. If so, it'll be source a 2270 with proper cam and install L-Jet on it. Probably hotwire and O2 sensor so some 944 parts.
Bored with six conversions (Can't afford them anymore anyway) and I can't bring myself to start welding steel top or flares on this one.....so engine is kinda all I have to fiddle with.
Maybe the exception of the tranny? I wonder if Jamie still has that "H" geared rebuilt unit?
Well, first tank of fuel didn't really yield anything to write home about.
284 miles (Real miles, not Porsche's optimistic assement of speedometer readings)
11 gallons of fuel
25.8 or 26 mpg.
Eh, it's an average with very mixed driving, test driving, sporty driving, some freeway, some light foot, some heavy foot.
26mpg is a far cry from what I'm shooting for though. Time to source an LM1 and tune by the AFM numbers.
Dan,
not bad for your first shot at the tuning...for a mixed bag of driving that sounds pretty good for a 35 year old car
I am getting about 29-30mpg with freeway driving, running 70+ and high ambient temps. That is with slightly tweeked D-jet and stock 74 exhaust.
Yup, I also have the backdated exhaust.
Upper 20's isn't bad at all for mixed given the age and state of tune of the thing. I have it set by "ear" and "feel" where the engine seems happiest erroring on the side of a little fat, rather than lean.
It runs great, TON's of torque.
I know for best mpg, I'll dail it back and loose some of that upper end, but that's cool.
Geoff,
I catch up with you next week for sure. It'd be good to visit and show off the new 914.
I did try to install a stock 1.8 vac can dist last night. Couldn't get it to fire off. Odd, but I didn't replace anything so could've been a bad condensor? Even found a pertronix kit (used) I have no idea where it came from. Tried that, no go. Had to put the old 022 dist back in, fired right up. Weird.
Wondering if I might yield slightly better mpg with the stock dist over the 912 dist? I'll source some points/cond/cap/rotor and try the install again.
LM1 tunning is needed at this point. Power isn't an issue, I'm shooting for max economy.
30MPG on in town driving would be pretty substantial!
As a comparison I pretty much get 30mpg on my CRX SI in town. Lots of heavy footing there. I also have done 44mpg on the highway, and still looking to better than number..
Granted Honda is different from VW, Im cruising at 70 at 2500 in 5th.
You'll get there.
I get 36mpg hwy on my 75 with a 1911 and L-Jet.
Great thread and it taught me stuff on the L-jet that I didn't know, nor could get from the Bosch book.
I went to a Mallory Optical distributor just to keep things stable and reliable WITH the vacuum canister on it.
Also, the alignment is CRITICAL. I was getting 4 mpg less highway before I got my front alignment done.
AND, don't get the widest tires you can fit on your rims. Stick with a mid size tire (185-195 section width) and you'll reap the MPG benefits.
Good luck!
On all my cars I have my fun tires, then my run around tires.. Which are typically rock hard skinny's.. If I plan on driving over 200 miles i'll swap em out. I see a 3mpg difference on my Audi between my 18's and my 15's, and about 2mpg on my honda.
JEEZZ!
just go get a prius!!!!
these cars are s'posed to be fun to drive and as a side beni they get pretty good fuel economy!!!!
the thing is ..... Dan can NOT just get a car and drive it.... he's got to constantly be "tim the tool man tayloring" it until he gets bored with it, then sells it for another project thats needs much more work than he got rid of!!!
he's got an angel of a wife!!!
Monster Squareback is keeping my hands off the 914 for now.
I keep eye-balling 924's in the local area......roof sections.
Skinny tires slightly over inflated will help net a fraction more MPG.
Don't forget to adjust for Porsche's or maybe VDO's inaccuracy of the speedo.
I've never been in a 914 that was less than 5% off, most are 10-15% off actual speed.
Mine is 8% off with my 185/65/15's. So I always subtract that off the total miles traveled when calculating mpg figures.
Otherwise I would have already touched the 40mpg mark!
I plan on sending my speedo in and having it re-calibrated with my current tires.
Annoying to see 70mph when you're only going roughly 60mph.
"Look, look! We're going 100mph!"
26.0 1st tank initial FI fire-up
21.1 2nd tank turned it up (richened the AFM), more power, mpg suffered
26.8 3rd tank turned AFM back still running 022
27.8 4th tank installed stock vac 1.8 FI dist
5th Tank since FI conversion was 27.25mpg (no changes, just drove it)
So it seems I've hit the peak of what's possible unless I really start changing up the internals, adding an "H" 5th or just simply do more freeway driving. These are essentially in-town miles.
I'm getting an easy 330 real miles out of each tank of fuel and that's not even running it dry. THAT makes me happy. Cost of just about any other mods won't yield any payback. So this is pretty much it for this project.
Driving it daily for months and plan on continuing to drive it daily.
Thats damn good for in city driving, Dan. A nice long freeway trip to see what the mpg would be interesting.
better than many new 2L powered cars.
and much better than a 15mpg six conversion!
i think you need another car to turn into a six so you can have one that puts the silly smile on your face when you romp on it 1
So when you gonna swing by and check out the progress on the Monster SB Troy?
Very happy with my 914 right now. A lot of work has really turned it into a great driver.
Yesterday I was heading home, it was cold and raining. No leaks, windows nice and clear and I was comfy inside listening to tunes. That's when you know you've done at least some things right.
914 has been sitting in winter storage for about 3 months. This weekend was cold, but very clear skies and sunny. So the wife and I headed up to the storage hanger and dug out the 914. We put almost 200 miles on it over Saturday and Sunday. It felt nice to drive a 914 again. I snapped a quick picture when we brought it back to the hanger.
I can't wait until spring to start driving it daily again.
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Dan, do tell about the hangar.
A great friend of mine had a sweet hangar at the Arlington airport. I'm guessing that's near to you.
Here's a pic from an aerobatic flight from there with my friend Anne.
I love airports.
That Cascade Mtn Range is Spectacular.
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My buddies place at Skagit, I don't get any stick time behind fixed wing anything these days (Too much $$$$!). He's got some cool ground-based toys I get to pilot once in a while though. 59' Vert-D, the yellow 65' C you can see in the picture and a handful of VW bug's from the 60's and 70's.
It's a really nice drive up to Skagit and once we're there, we usually spend the day up there. Visit Camano Island, LaConner etc. Makes for some great little towns and cool twisty roads.
Bouncy needle is a worn out cable, do that first, it'll smooth things out.
My mpg figures are always corrected numbers. With my 185/65/15's I'm about 7% off actual speed. Not bad.
Stock tires I think are 165/SR/15's which I've thought about moving to just to correct the speedo and reduce the rolling resistance for hopefully even better fuel economy.
I also thought about pulling the 2.0 for a 1.8, but I just can't de-value this car like that. Which leads me to possibly trading it for a 1.7 or 1.8 914?
I really want to see if I can build a 40+mpg 914.
Haven't been on here for awhile Root/Dan - but you've re-inspired me on mine to keep cranking away, although I've realized I need to do some other "building projects" to fully free up my garage to keep mine on stands/rotisserie full time without rolling it out/jack-up & jack-down/roll back every friggin' time!
On to your tires & mpg ....
No don't swap in a 1.7 or 1.8, nor trade down for one. If anything & if you don't need to smog test it for DMV up there, then back date your 76 2L to 74 spec (since 73 has some hard to find NOS parts that were 1 MY only) - with D-jet, 2.0 SSIs you have & a OEM 2.0 Banana Muffler (quieter than Bursch) & tune it to factory specs, get stock 165R15 tires on there, then go drive it "easy" for best milage, and you should get close to 39 or 40 mpg on the flat highway (city & mixed & hills will be less due to more work.
The biggest input by far affecting your mpg is attached to the end of your right leg - waaay down there!
Yup - that foot on the gas pedal, along with gear selection - not changes, but which one you stick it into to cruise!
Third may be the wheels, as the Fuchs 2L lightweight forged alloys were 10.1 lbs. IIRC, while the Rivieras you're running are probably 13-14+/- lbs. each - so that affects the overall weight, and also the rolling resistance & inertia which the motor needs to overcome to spin the wheels (also affected by tire size below).
Second may be the tires - & there were several questions posted here on sizes, speedo/odo errors & mpg, so I'll offer my 2 cents.
Going to 165(/80)R15 - BTW 2.0's were stock spec'd for 165HR15 & 1.7's/1.8s for 165SR15, but you can drive 2L's with SR's if you're not testing the limits over their 112 mph speed rating. HRs go to 130 mph & TRs go to 118 mph, but latter weren't available back in the day, so not spec'd. The 73-74 2.0 was spec'd as 115 or 118 mph max., but I've had my totally stock 73 2L up to 126 mph. The 75-76 was 112+/- mph IIRC. So what are your choices now?
There are Kumho & several other 165SR15 tires around at reasonable under $100 prices, as well as the Vredestein Sport & Michelin XZX are over $100 (Michi well over!).
Bridgestone makes a nice 165TR15 for $70-90+/- that looks nice & grips well according to some local 70's 911 & 912 guys who run them.
Only Vredestein Sport+ ($105+/-) & Michi XAS (tube type @ $280 w/ tube) are currently available in 165HR15, but I've got a poll post topic to try to get Dunlop to bring back their SP57 165HR15s, in the garage (vote there for price & number of tires if you're interested.
All stock spec tires were tubeless because the steel & alloy "J" rims were for tubeless, & I'd been told those can pinch & pop tubes if you use tube-type tires in them (either at installation or while driving & flexing the sidewalls - per tire experts back in the day.
The 914 Speedometers & Odometer were not inaccurate - especially as compared to other cars of that day, and particularly with American makes. Perhaps a fraction or 1% off at most. However, they were geared specifically for the stock OE tire size of 165R15, and not the "low-n-wide fatties" that many like to run today for max grip!
The OE spec 165R15 tires (/80 height to width ratio) will give a zero speedo/odo error - or maybe a fraction of a percent if gears are worn, since that's the size the speedo & odo are geared for. They'll also seem quicker to turn since the smaller contact patch is less resistance on non-power steering - not better gripping, but the price for more grip is less mpg on larger & wider/lower profile tires like yours.
Michelin 185/70VR15 XWX tubeless tires are 0.8% too fast & 195/65R15 are double that at 1.6% - while your 185/65R15 are 3.8% off fast (so you're over correcting at 7%), & 185/75R15 are 2.1% too slow, & 175/75R15 is only 0.2% off fast - but I've not seen any recently. Those 185/70VR15 XWXs were the optional upgrade on the M470 & M471 factory options for the 914/4 & 914-6 respectively,and many AXers & racers back in the day used them cuz they were sticky but drops your mpg. Today they're north of $400 apiece!
I'd also guess that your 75 2.0L would get better mileage if fitted out with the stock D-jet (74 or 75-76 MY as noted above), and I don't know if L-jet is better or worse, but the factory didn't convert the 2.0s to L-jet when it came out in the 74 MY on the USA 1.8Ls, so I presume there was a reason, since the L-jet was supposed to be less expensive to build. Ditto for the back-dated exhaust, but with the stock Banana (Bursch was tuned for HP, not mpg - whereas OE balanced the two). Of course, you'd want to pull off any smog equipment for the 75-76 set-up if you don't need to smog test it up there, since the 73-74 set-up produced 91/95 hp vs. 81/86 hp for 75-76 set-up, as well as getting better mpg.
I know for a fact that it is possible to eek a stock 914 2L up to or over 40 mpg with careful driving - most/all in 5th. Back in the late 70's I took my stock 73 2L from LA to SF & filled up near Bakersfield & again up at the north end of the San Joaquin Valley - so I had mostly flat land (a stock 914 can easily do LA to SF with gas to spare), get my right foot "soft" on the gas, stayed mostly in 5th (even on those small grades near Coalinga), kept it mostly to the 55-65 mph range (55 was the limit back then ) and I got about 41 mpg - but was bored stiff!!
BTW - I had the same time & money conflicts with getting stick time while raising my kids. Now that they're grown & gone, I hope to do a kit plane or restore an older Bonanza after my 914 is done!
Cheers!
Tom
///////
Interesting, one year later and I still own the 914. Odd.....for me anyway.
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Seems like a long time
[quote name='Valy' date='Apr 6 2011, 01:07 AM' post='1454458']
[/quote]
Your speedometer and odometer inaccuracies are not related.
[/quote]
I must be dumber than I look.
Or related to whom??
Mine are off more as I have 195x55x15's and the speedo and odometer are off by about 10%. Does give me a little better low end tho'.
Dan, never thought you were dumb at all.
Jon, you have too many 914's at your house, buy mine and have one more.
Just kidding!
Tom
speedo and odo are driven off the same cable, off the same gear on the tranny.
If one is off, then why wouldn't both be off.
When I use my GPS it shows my speedo and odo off by about 10% fast since I run 205x50x15s
He must mean "not related" in the "biblical sense" - as in "kissin cousins"!
Valy contradicts himself in his reply, when he goes on to say that the speedo & odo are "bundled" and use the same cable. I think he just meant that they're 2 separate instruments, cuz they're obviously both running off the same speed/distance data source - the cable/angle drive (or electronic in newer cars).
In the "old days" of pre GPS, we just got the speedo error from a test station or by math on the differing circumference of the tire/wheel combo off of the stock one - I even used to use my slide rule!
Today all you need to do is go to the top of this page, click on 914 info, then click on the tire calculator, plug in your new tire info (wheel diameter is implicit in tire size), and it gives you the error! How easy is modern stuff like computers!
Then use the error calculated either way to adjust to your actual miles driven to calc your true mpg .... you can even use one of those new fangled calculators - I even have one on my watch!
So unless having your mpg out to 4-5+ digits is important to you within a 3' accuracy from a satellite - GPS is not necessary to do this exercise - but rather a fun toy to push more buttons on! I'm not against new advances, just that sometimes it's overkill in some cases.
Back to my original suggestion - tune the 2.0 properly to factory spec - not for more power/TQ/etc. - put the few available 165HR15 or Bridgestone 165TR15 tires on the 10.1 lb. Fuchs 2L alloys per OE spec on the 73-76 2Ls (you can even cheat with cheaper Kumho 165SR15s if you promise never to exceed 115 mph), inflate to proper tire pressure or a little higher, and you'll get into the mid-high 30's in 5th on a flat freeway run if you lope along at 55-65 mph. I've done it on I-5 in CA's Central Valley. The problem is, who wants to drive a 914 that lazily!?
That's what Porsche spec'ed them for back in the 70's gas crisis days - 29-33+ mpg at 55-65. It's also a big reason why I decided to get rid of my 69 Pontiac Ventura 4-dr. 400cid/2bbl/Auto "Boat" in 75 (I'd taken over It & its payments from Dad on it when my 1.1L economical Opel Kadette engine blew in 71) ~ aside from the obvious advantages to a young single guy wanting a sports car! I didn't sit in gas lines nearly as much in the 914-2.0 after 12/75!!!!
BTW - when I was a Freshman in college HP sold a basic +, -, x, / function calculator ~ maybe there was % &/or square root in there too ~ for $400 - so I stuck with my mini slide rule. By Junior year others had figured out how to make the same thing cheaper, & I got another "off brand" from JC Penneys for $79. That was 1970-73. By grad school in 84-86 HP was selling their programmable HP12C financial calculator for $79 with loads of functions - today it till sells for the same price 25 years later!
Wazzup wid dat!!??
PS -
Another thought for those of you running off-size tires with large odo errors, you may be devaluing your 914s some by having more mileage than actual showing, or conversely giving the eventual buyer & yourself under mileage when it comes to service intervals & actual use on the car, engine, transaxle - depending upon whether it's a + or - error.
Obviously the over mileage is the most harmful when selling, as Tod914 found out when he sold his white 75 or 76 2L (IIRC that was the car) after restoring it but running on 195/65HR15s - which is only a 1.6% error IIRC, cuz it took a very low mileage 914 & put an extra 5-10k or something of "ghost mileage" on there. I don't know how much cash he lost in the sale, but maybe he'll weigh in here on the dangers of off size tires to a collectible vintage car.
If your 914 is highly modified then it may not matter as much, cuz that buyer segment isn't as interested in actual mileage, but rather in the performance tweaks & mods you've done.
The least or zero error tire would be the 165R15 (80 section presumed for all, but they do vary some) in either SR, TR (new rating not around in the 70s but adequate for 2Ls), HR, VR, etc. speed ratings. Next best is 185/75R15 - of which I've seen zero, or the 185/70R15 with only a 0.8% error of which Vredestein makes VR & maybe HR for a somewhat reasonable price, & Michelin makes the old school AX/Race/HP tire from the M471/M470 option set XWX 185/70VR15 at a whopping $407+/- per tire!
I know a few 356, 911/912 & 914 folks around who run the Kumho 165SR15 & Bridgestone 165TR15 modern tires, as well as a few with the Vredestein 165SR15 or 165HR15 & Michelin XZX 165SR15 or XAS 165HR15 (those Michi's are +/- $200-250 eaqch & XAS require tubes which are not supposed to be good on our "J" type tubeless rims/wheels) vintage-look tires for DD, vintage & CW use who are relatively happy with their performance as well. Obviously not the oversized 195, 205 & up type performance, but also not the price, rolling inertia to overcome, & rolling friction to drag down your mpg - if that's what you're looking for.
The O&H nailed forum on Wheels & Tires has more info on OEM & current tires for those interested - whether your a CW wanker or not!
JM2C
Exactly Jon,
If my odo is off 10% then when my mileage shows 5,000 miles I have actually only driven about 4500 miles. So I would be actually doing service more frequently than needed.
Jon has a good point.
The engine doesn't care how many miles the wheels have turned. Wear & tear on the engine is most closely correlated with how many revolutions it's turned.
The stock ODO (if functioning correctly) will always be a [indirect] measure of how many revolutions the engine has turned.
If you put on different sized wheels/tires, and you subsequently cover less (or greater) distance per revolution of the engine, that does NOT mean the engine has worked a different amount.
This doesn't account for difference in rotating mass, etc. - so there's a pretty complex equation here. But the stock ODO, driven off the stock gearing in the transmission, is a more accurate reflection of how many revolutions the engine has turned than "Actual miles traveled".
OK - I see your points.
But if it were on my 73 2Lthen 914 at almost 39 years old (1st sold 11/72), I think that I'd still err on the side of caution & do the maintenance a bit sooner - rather than later per the odo reading. ..... ditto on oil/filter, etc.
JMHO & JM2C
On the other side with higher error (+) - the higher odo reading is primarily an economic loss of value for a collectible car with more miles showing than actual.
Tom,
205x50s are smaller in overall diameter=more revolutions per mile=higher speedo and odo readings for same speed and distance.
Good info guys, thanks!
I've never, ever, ever been in any Porsche that had a dead on speedo. They've all read too fast. The closest was an 83' 944 I had about 15 years ago. It was too fast, but only by about 2mph @60mph reading (so 62mph was actually 60mph)
The worst I've seen was a 914 that had 14" 914-6 fuchs with 185/60/14's on it. Sheese, that thing read something like 75mph on the gauge when it was only really going maybe 60mph, crazy!
But my exposer to the marque is limited.
Some examples from the tire calculator on here vs. stock 165(/80)R15 size:
http://www.914world.com/specs/tirecalc.php
Some common choices I see folks use that are giving more miles on odo than actual:
205/50R15 = 9.1% smaller & reads faster/more miles @ odo
195/60R15 = 4.7% smaller & reads faster/more miles @ odo
195/65R15 = 1.6% smaller & reads faster/more miles @ odo
185/70R15 = 0.8% smaller & reads faster/more miles @ odo
Whereas, these are some other sizes undercounting odo mileage:
225/60R15 = 0.9% bigger & reads slower/less miles @ odo
205/65R15 = 0.4% bigger & reads slower/less miles @ odo
185/75R15 = 2.1% bigger & reads slower/less miles @ odo
175(/80)R15 = 2.5% bigger & reads slower/less miles @ odo
Note that 165(/80R15 & 175(/80)R15 are actually labeled as 165R15 & 175R15 with the /80 section height implied or assumed for all of the older 1970's era tire sizes without a section ht. listed (i.e.: the height of the tire's cross section is 80% of width, /65 = 65%, /55 =55%, etc.).
So this begs the question if the early 914/4's with 155R15 tires were in fact 2.5% too fast & smaller ~ or was it the other way around with the 165R15s on 914-6s & 914-2.0s & later 1.7s/1.8s were about that much too slow?? ... because I doubt that VW-Porsche changed the speedo/odo gearing for the 2 tire sizes!
Back then a 5% speedo error was considered acceptable, average & normal - and I think still is today, and I doubt many of the "modern" electic speedos today are spot on. Yeah, I'm sure a bunch of you will now jump in on how accurate their speedo is, but that's hardly an industry average.
As such it saved my a couple of times on speeding tickets by claiming that the "5 mph over the limit" was due to normal speedo error!
.
So Root, let us know how a set of 165R15s, with stock recco'd 26 psi or more air (maybe 28-32), a tune-up to factory specs, & a "lighter foot" on the gas works for your 40 mpg goal!!??
Troys gets the best.....0 miles per gallon. Not ...
As some know, I pulled the transmission from the 914 and took it down to the Dr. Evil Tranny Clinic here in the PNW the weekend of May 7-8. The transmission in this 914 only has 120k miles on it, shifts fine, no wines, whirs, grinds etc. So my goal was to change out a couple of gears. Dr. Evil had what I was looking for (more on that in a second).
Pre-Tranny clinic, I pulled off the raspy sounding Bursch system. I can't stand the sound the 914 was making between 1900-2800rpms. Sounded almost like a Honduh fart can. So I added this:
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Using the tools from 914world, here is the stock gear chart with my current size tires:
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And here is the new gear chart (same tires of course):
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Driving impressions:
Loving the new combo! The little glass pack made a pretty big difference. No more raspy, crapy sounding exhaust note. Much quieter and lower from the exhaust tip. Couple that with lower rpm's and 60mph in 5th, you cannot hear the engine, just wind noise as it's turning something around 2200 rpms. Nice! the spacing bewteen 3-4-5 is perfect for the area we drive in. 4th is tall enough to use on longer freeway grades so I don't load the engine and 5th is perfect for those long flat cruises.
I ran a test for those local who know the road:
I ran up hwy204 to Frontier Village in 5th @55mph (1800rpms I think?). I tapped the gas and just kept digging into the throttle little by little as I climbed the hill. Never knocked/pinged and the L-Jet 2.0 pulled it up past 75mph until I felt a speeding ticket wouldn't be cool so I slowed back down.
Cool! I'm ready for summer driving.
I am taking Orangina on a ride up to Central Coast Wine Country this weekend with 205/50's and my GPS.
If it is 500 miles on the GPS, it will be 545 when I get home.
My 205/60's are at Al Reed's but I have to go.
so much for that.
I am thinking of putting the Banana back on to keep Janice from freaking out on the Monza sound.
Not sure.
Getting 28MPG with the Pertronix on 89 Octane. May switch to 87! Runs better than on 91. Thank you, Mr. Gaglione, once again!
TOP DOWN DRIVING FOR US!
Screw that 15% rain prediction.
John
This is a better chart for the gears to show how much difference the X and flipped H gears make. I'll print and file this one in the "Stuff I've done to the 914" folder:
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This is very interesting. I've always found 4th and 5th to be disappointing for how high they rev at 50-70mph. How common is it to change out the high-end gears like this? Any issues to be aware of?
You need to spend less time and more time so you can post some new MPG numbers with this config.
I am glad that, despite my warnings based on conventional wisdom, you are proving this combo so far
Gearbox is back in the car - (even taking time out for Mother's Day, a couple of days for my wife's birthday, and three nights away to see my daughters perform in their school play).
It's the best shifting transaxle my teener has ever had!
It's only been driven around the neighborhood so testing of the new gearing in 3, 4 & 5 will have to wait until next Friday's track day.
Cheers,
Eddie
Eddie, you are an animal. You worked later than anyone else. Wore me out, man.
Maybe I should change my screen name to:
"AnimalEddie"
a lot of people at the track have told me my teener is a "Beast".
"AnimalEddie" driving the "Beast" ????
When I first got it, some of my buddies called it "The Roach".
Cheers,
Eddie
The chart I made is off the spreadsheet and I adjusted the formulas to display only what I wanted. i.e. were I think I would max my rpms and shifting for each gear. So 1st and 2nd might get close to 6k rpms, but 3-4-5 are not much about 5200 rpms.
Chart made just for me.
I rode my bicycle into work again today. It's bitter sweet because the sun is out, I want to drive my 914, but at the same time, I love to ride my bike. I'm hoping this weekend stays nice.
29.3 mpg the last tank, corrected mileage of course. Better by a couple mpg which is cool. The longest HWY trip taken was a whoping 26 miles, so still not getting a flavor of what might be achieved on a nice long 300-400 mile drive.
We are trying to get the time to drive down to OR in June for the WCR which would be a perfect drive for max mpg. Work and a possible technical certification are potentially putting the squash on that weekend. We'll see.
In reality the errors are close for both units on these old school gear driven speedos & odos, since they're not the new tech electronic types. The degradation you described Valy will be more or less the same for both as well - even if not far off.
Just ask Tod914 how his 195/65R15 tires racked upmore than actual miles on the odo & he lost value on the sale due to that (IIRC it was the L80E 75 2.0 that he had before his current red 73 2L).
I put a couple of notes in red italics below.
Good speedo and odo talk guys, thanks for all the great input!
Mine is what it is. Pretty easy to calculate the %# off from actual given the tires, factory speedo settings etc. etc.
I will say a few weeks back after putting the Evil Tranny back in, I went and clocked my speed up north using the mile markers around the Mt. Vernon area on I-5. Those who know the area know the markers I'm talking about. There are.....6 miles worth total I believe? I did 4.
In the past I've used the "Your speed is" radar signs to gauge my %# off from actual. I'm now under the impression those signs might give a slight and false sense of speed. I calcualted an 8% variance from my speedo to a couple of different radar speed signs locally. Figured that was good enough, used a few different speeds and a few different signs so it must be correct.
Using the timed mile marker method, my speedo is only about 4% off. Which would mean I would have to go back and re-calc all my mpg figures. So my last posted mpg figure of 29.3 would actually be 30.5mpg and my last fill up just last weekend would reflect an average of 30.7mpg.
So thanks to the advice of many, I found another method of testing MY 914's speedo accuracy. Which is cool!
Next on the list of things to do hopefully this week is adjust the valves and install my recently aqucired 1.7 rocker arms and elephant foot adjusters.
I'll also replace the push rod tube seals and pop in a set of WR8DTC's to see if that helps the mpg numbers.
More to come.
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