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Posted by: 7TPorsh Mar 29 2010, 04:57 PM

I am having a problem with the accelerator plate/linkage that attaches to the pedal .

The tension of the accelerator cable is causing the metal to bend to the right. the result is basically no travel on the pedal.

I have to reach in there and bend it back. it has gotten to the point where the metal is like mush.

I used the pic below to show the piece and the way it bends. Can this piece be replaced? Does the cluster need to be removed or can i replace on the floor? Am I looking at a full rebuild? Everything else seems to be fine.

Pissed i have to pull out the center console.

Posted by: Phoenix 914-6GT Mar 29 2010, 05:02 PM

Yes, it is easily replacable. I am sure there are a few here that have an extra sitting around if you don't have one. You would need to remove it from the car. It would be a pain to do in the car but I am sure it could be done.

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Mar 29 2010, 05:14 PM

This is usually caused by a floppy accelerator pedal, worn out, and moving from side to side. If yours is doing that, replace the pedal!!

QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Mar 29 2010, 03:57 PM)

I am having a problem with the accelerator plate/linkage that attaches to the pedal .

The tension of the accelerator cable is causing the metal to bend to the right. the result is basically no travel on the pedal.

I have to reach in there and bend it back. it has gotten to the point where the metal is like mush.

I used the pic below to show the piece and the way it bends. Can this piece be replaced? Does the cluster need to be removed or can i replace on the floor? Am I looking at a full rebuild? Everything else seems to be fine.

Pissed i have to pull out the center console.

Posted by: 7TPorsh Mar 30 2010, 09:23 AM

yes dr., just replaced the pedal and the floor board.

Good to hear it's not an integral piece. How does it attach? My Haynes manual is worthless for this.

...and where can i get one/ Thanks

Posted by: 7TPorsh Mar 30 2010, 04:00 PM

Anyone have a part number for this piece? can't tell from the parts diagrams...dr.?

Posted by: McMark Mar 30 2010, 04:34 PM

901.423.250.02 Is the part number. These guys can crack at the pivot shaft and do exactly what you're describing. It's really exciting when they get stuck under the center tunnel and REV the HELL out of the motor when you put in the clutch!

On a 912 project (same part) I had this problem. So I removed the shaft completely, got some bulk shaft in the same diameter, welded in a longer piece and a brace on the back. Probably overkill, but since the piece had already bent a few times, I decided that the metal had possibly fatigued, and I didn't want to risk the throttle sticking while the customer was driving. So I overbuilt it.


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Posted by: SirAndy Mar 30 2010, 04:37 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 30 2010, 03:34 PM)

So I overbuilt it.

Posted by: McMark Mar 30 2010, 04:43 PM

Oh, and it removes by pulling out a small cotter pin, and then sliding out towards the passenger side.

And, if the bushings that support the pivot shaft are worn, cracking, or plastic. I can get the bronze pivot shaft bushings alone (not a full kit).


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Posted by: 7TPorsh Mar 30 2010, 06:21 PM

great info...can it be replaced without taking out the cluster?

I just looked up the part. $75 at AA.....this is not good.

Posted by: URY914 Mar 30 2010, 06:26 PM

I had the same problem and fixed it by rewelding it too.

Posted by: URY914 Mar 30 2010, 06:27 PM

Posted by: URY914 Mar 30 2010, 06:27 PM

Posted by: Phoenix 914-6GT Mar 30 2010, 06:30 PM

If you can't find that part for less let me know. I think I have one sitting in my garage I can send you.

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Mar 31 2010, 05:22 PM

same here. pedal hinge rusted away. rubber coating ripped. linkage went sideways and ripped the weld.
...nice robo-weld super pivot Mark.

Posted by: McMark Mar 31 2010, 08:27 PM

It's funny. I went to install a pedal cluster today and noticed the bellcrank didn't look right. Compared it to another one I had here, and the pivot shaft is nowhere close to 90*. Wish I'd noticed that before I powdercoated it.

Oh well, robo-pivot #2. This time with a 2mm cotter pin hole, instead of the circlip groove I used last time. Oh so original.

Also noticed the the pins are brazed into place, so you may have a hard time just welding them, without carefully removing all the brass.


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Posted by: 7TPorsh Apr 20 2010, 02:18 PM

Well i dove into the cluster. I was able to get the lever out without touching the center console or taking the cluster apart.

Major accomplishment for me as I am 6"3"/220.

Here it is.




It's split and cracked around the top half.

So is this an easy home depot fix I can do with some sort of cheap torch? or ?

If i take it to a machine shop? or mechanic? how much should it cost me.

I think I would rather just buy a good one if affordable.

I wish I had the materials to do a monster job in it like the ones shown in the thread.

By the way this metal looks and feels; I am inclined to guess that a lot of 914 owner probably have bent levers and don't know it.

p.s.: I am told I take pictures like some of the greats!

Posted by: SirAndy Apr 20 2010, 03:01 PM

QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Apr 20 2010, 01:18 PM)

p.s.: I am told I take pictures like some of the greats!

Posted by: Dave_Darling Apr 20 2010, 03:38 PM

Any decent fabricator should be able to do something like McMark's fix. Anyone who is a decent welder (and has a solvent tank to clean the heck out of the part!!) can weld it all back together, and probably even put a washer or another doubler on it to help keep that from happening again. Not as mega-strong as the RoboBellCrank™, but more than likely strong enough for another few decades.

--DD

Posted by: McMark Apr 20 2010, 09:57 PM

You can always mail it up my way.