First pics of my EZ30R engine with 1000 miles total!
Now to take out the Ej20 turbo this weekend and see if the new engine can fit on the renegade engine cradle!
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one more on stand
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Nice!
VERY nice! I can't wait to see how this turns out.
I've long thought that would be the ultimate "6" conversion.
Looking forward to the progress thread.
Now all it needs is an IR EFI intake system to complete the look!
I missed if this Six is going to be N/A or turboed?
How about a side view pic so we can see the oil pan. Is this the engine with 1 big exhaust port or 3?
EJ20 is out finally!
Yes it is the 3 Port Exhaust, not one.
Its going to be N/A, check out the oil pan, save depth down as Ej20, but obviously different.
Just ordered the Motor mounts(different than Ej20) from ebay yesterday, so i'll be trying to fit this baby into the Renegade Mount next week.
Stock Subaru Engine wiring Plugs also ordered, so this wiring will be clean! Should plug right into the 2 square electrical plugs on the engine.
Going to be Dual exhaust, and I am making the header, so you guys can see my Tig Welding, I think I am way better at it now.
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Underneath....hey also if anyone knows...Why doesnt this Engine have a fuel return line? They all dead end into the injectors equally with no return. Have to figure out how to hook this up.
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My Dodge V10 has no return line either. It uses a 45psi pump to the 45psi injectors. The pump has an internal bypass to "dead head" the fuel during idle.
Awesome! I have been wanting to do that conversion since I learned about the engine when it came out. It is the only redeeming quality of the nast looking Tribeca
Sweet! Disregard my question in the "best conversion" thread.
Looks good! Do you get the motors locally?
Very nice. That car is going to be a rocket. Get it done in time for coffee next month!
That is a beautiful engine.
What kind of HP and torque does it make?
John
Its ugly, particularly the rear....
I can get the Ej20s local, but this one I got lucky... I got this UNBELIEVEABLE deal on ebay. 5 minutes after it was posted....ready for this deal??.........$1100 + $150 shipping from CA to AZ! I know!!!! holy crap! I hit buy it now SO FAST!
The computer is going to cost me $2200 itself! But considering these engines usually go for $4000 in this condition, its worth the expensive computer.
Actually i was WAY wrong on the HP #'s. My eJ20 Turbo motor put out 252 hp, but this was at the wheels! My new N/A Ez30R puts out 250 hp, but thats at the crank, so about 30 Hp lower. But who says i wont put a nice simple, 50 hp Nos Jet in it. (my enventual plan) Gotta keep that Hp the same, too fun!
Weight came in at 315 lbs, measured today. The Ej20 is about 40 lbs lighter.
Just figured out where all the wires go, still waiting on factory male end of the engine plugs to arrrive in the mail.
It's a Tribeca. But it's also fugly on the inside. Perrin had turbo'd that motor though.
WOW! doesnt that EZ30R look like it was made for that engine bay?? FITS like a glove!
Renegade Hybrids Engine Cradle works with this engine also, lines right up with motor mount position.
See pics. It will be about 1.5 inch higher in engine bay. Still waiting on motor mounts, temporary smaller spacer in place of mounts.
This is just a mock up, Have to pull back out to put flywheel on. (being resurfaced)
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look at all that space around throttle body!
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as i stated earlier, engine will be about 1.5 inch higher, but look at where it is now. NOT bad. When mounts come in I think it will be perfect!
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Here is a pic of where the motor mount lines up, waiting on mount to come in mail
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Friggen awesome Just as I had imagined it. You got a smoking deal on that engine. I hope the price comes down in the next few years so I can afford to do one of theses
That looks like it will be a screamer alright and looks pretty nice too! Just wondering, do you plan on fabing some tin to seperate the upper engine comp from the lower?
Tom
Yes cut the unneeded sheet metal out - that stuff is sharp and will cut you up every time you work on the engine. Will look a lot better to boot.
Fits like a glove. Stock Subaru mounts fit right into the holes of the renegade mount. Only mod was to made the holes slightly wider on the mount where the mount bolt comes through. The 3.0 liter mount had the 2 studs on the mount a little closer together. But same angle, and slipped right into the 2.0 mount location! Sweet!
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The oil Pan is Perfect. Great clearance !
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final position of intake, yep slight mod needed to rear firewall, but maybe i might be able to slip a 90 degree Coupler in there.
I like that you can see the Spider intake real well.
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Reminds me of the 928 intake. Cool!
If anyone in the PNW wants to follow budman's lead, I'll offer moral support: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/1671212995.html.
Dear Subaru,
Some friends of mine have this idea for a new production car...
Oh stay away from those 3.3 s. They are heavy and only put out 200 or so hp. I bet my engine is 50 lbs lighter.
I need to drive a bad ass Subi conversion.. it sure sounds / looks good...
Can you flip the intake and move the alternator so you don't have to cut the rear firewall?
Quick mockup of header, will redo in quality steel. Just tack welded for a fitment through engine cradle..
Using a 3-1 flat collector from STBEXHAUST.com for the exit
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rear without collector yet (using this FMC one)
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Sweet... Open header!
If I remember right the 3.3 uses 2.2 stuff and the 30r has offset rods which means no aftermarket rods for boosting.
You can ceramic coat the tubes you've already started with. The LT1 motor mount uses a heat shield that looks like a turbo blanket. You might want to put one on your motor mounts if they are going to be that close to the headers.
Great info. It sounds like you are on your toes on this swap. I truly think this is a better swap in the 914 mostly because of the sound of the 6. I do think the suby tranny is also the way to go.
The 3.3 uses same aftermarket rods that are available for the ej20 and 2.2 but you should have a set of six rods balanced. You can also use the 2.2 pistons but your compression will be way to low and they are not forged. very nice aftermarket stuff is available for the 3.3 like high capacity/low clearance aluminum oil pans, forged pistons in 8.5,9.5,11.0 ratios, forged rods, Several performance cams. Computer software for turbo and NA applications for factory computer. all the aftermarket clutch components from the 2.0's too.
Okay, Guess what guys. NOW Link ECU is only dealing through one guy in CA named Neil....and....they raised their prices to $2500 bucks from $1500 for the Extreme ECU. What a crock! Storm is now $1450-1500 from $950.
Does anyone have a better connection? I guess Link just hired a new VP and he's rasing prices across the board, thats also for their Renamed ECU Vi-pec v44 and v88.
I am getting the extreme, because i can justify it, since i got a Screaming deal on my engine, but its definately a few weeks out now.
Greedy VP's. Ya think if they just lowered it, they could corner the whole market and everyone would have a LINK ECU in their sandrail or kit car.
I'm not up on link but isn't that what outfront sells? They may have what you want in inventory and may give you a better price. For 2500.00 I probably would learn megasquirt or try another brand. SDS or whatever will support cam timing.
Hmmm, let me email him about a group buy and get back with you....
I think it would be tough to get a group together, but if he'll sell for a high-viz group buy he should certainly sell singles. Worth asking anyway.
So why isn't this going to be a low to moderate turbo setup?
Aren't those subi engines supposed to be boost-happy or somesuch? Especially if you're going to have to use a custom LINK setup anyhow with your custom headers... You'd wipe the shit-eating grins off of 996tt owners on an hourly basis!
I just drove down to Tacoma yesterday and picked up their SOHC 1000 grind for my 2.5L n/a engine. I will be taking the heads to a machine shop to port and polish them before re-installing the cams.
I say go for it!
header driver side complete
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received other end to my engine harness! and it fits!! This is going to make wiring a TON easier.
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Can i ask a favor? If someone has stock heat exchangers on your car, can you take a pic of the axel from the back. I want to make sure i have enough clearance when i put the exhaust pipe straight back. I want to see how high the axel is above the heat exchanger and how far center or to the suspension it is......thanks guys
while cleaning up the engine bay, found this patch panel. FUN!!
what a PITA to clean up.
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pic of behind patch panel, to be fixed this week via my parts car donor metal.
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So far 8 hours spent on just engine bay, no where near done yet. This patching and welding all the previous owners screw holes, access holes, etc take a looooong time.
Tested my GLOSS black POR 15 tonight on the front bulkhead of the engine compartment. Its going to look nice all done.
Just ordered a GT engine lid from Sergio. Cant wait!
GT lid looks great! thanks Sergio.
Progress over the past week...
Stock battery area fully replaced with sheet metal from parts car. TOTal inside of engine bay cleaned up, sanded down, and coated with Black gloss POR-15.
Hell hole area was VERY rust free when i really got into it.
Center tunnel cleared of all accelerator tubes, lines,etc. Clutch Cable Tube replaced with thicker steel and Tig welded to a thick plate at rear of firewall and RELOCATED to driver side for more clearance in tunnel.
Cable Shifter relocated to inside tunnel and placed back about 6 inches toward the rear from stock location. (I am 6'4", so shifter was always a little to far from me when seat is all the way back)
EXTREME LINK ECU is now in my hands and wiring will follow before i put the engine back in.
Pics will follow in next few days
Sure am looking forward to those pics...
Okay almost done guys. Here is my 2003 Boxster Muffler, I cant believe how nice it came out.
Check out the brackets needed to fab. They bolt directly to Transmission Main Stock mounting bolts for the weight and small ones on rear of transmission for stabilization not weight.
(sorrry for the crappy cell phone pics)
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Engine bay is done and engine in....a few pics before and after. Look at my nice small battery tucked down low in front of engine. Cranks over engine just fine!
Yep my welding is NOT clean, but very solid. It litterally took me about 24 total hours just to plug all the holes from previous owners and take away all the air cooled sheet metal. Battery box area done and hell hole area was solid when i was sanding it.
Clutch CABLE tube also moved to other side of tunnel. Solid FOREVER now.
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Curious, why the battery so far down low and, to me it seems difficult to get at if needed?
CCL at CAMP
I'am curious too about the engine lid you're running. I've seen other members who had those on their cars. Is it for better cooling, and what do you do when it rains??
I like the muffler and the battery location. You are doing great. I really wish you would have started with the suby tranny though. The torque of the hotrodded suby will easily overcome the 901 if you run fat tires. I bet the boxter muffler will sound really good but may make too much back pressure for a turbo application.
That muffler looks great and I bet it'll be nice and quiet.
Lookin' good so far.
There's a guy here in Anacortes who took an original, unmolested '73 2.0L and had a Subie SVX motor put in it.
I don't know how the SVX-6 compares with the Tribeca-6, but I can tell you that with the SVX motor it is one wild ride. He stopped by a few weeks after getting it shoe-horned in and threw me the keys. . . I rolled off in 1st, shifted into second and nailed it. Instantly it was sideways and stayed that way until I shifted into 4th at around 80mph
Make sure your life insurance is up to date before testing the capabilities of your new motor
I know your motor is na but that probably won't be enough after about 6mo, if the tranny is still in it. You know you will want more. I didn't see how you plumbed the exhaust into the ends. Will it take a 90 on each end? I don't like no but everone has his own idea of the best way to get to a goal. A common number on a single 90degree axle loss is about 20%. That doesn't take into the turn around loss the midengine or tail dragger tranny has. Probably if someone here doesn't know a gt 40 type forum will know. google it.
Forget the Turbo...
I say http://www.raptorsc.com.au/kits.php?id=20 it!!! Insta-Torque!! (I know it is for a 4 cylinder but you could make it work )
You would definitely need a Suby LSD 5 speed then!
Looks great!
Nate
Working on electronic throttle today. It's amazing how simple it is with the link Extreme ecu. I'll post a video of the pedal and throttle body plate actually moving next weekend. (pedal should be here this weekend or Monday) if anyone is curious go to linkecu.com and type in ez30r in forums and you'll see my posts where Simon just posted me a great diagram of how to hook up the elec trottle.
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ez30r_throttle_and_tps_wiring.pdf ( 72k )
Number of downloads: 232
fuzzy pic, but drivers side of exhaust done, now passenger side is left.
Coolant overflow and purge tank are now in and connected, Radiator hose back to engine is connected.
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My electronic throttle finally arrived!! Should be wired into this weekend and i'll try to take a video of the throttle plate opening on car with pedal.
wow too much coffee while taking pics today, very fuzzy!
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Sorry crappy video, but I was a little too excited that I got it working.!!
Too cool, no matter how fast or slow I hit the gas its directly a 1:1 ratio. Awesome! Cant wait to get this baby going....almost done
Here is the video of the throttle plate opening and closing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eU1Dc41nv_U
SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Youtube video of it running in a day or so!
Not even tuned yet and its smooth as silk! Engine doesnt even move!
Sounds killer through that stock boxster muffler too....Quiet!
If anyone needs help wiring the ez30R, i am officially now an expert! Beer this weekend!
Outstanding. When you do the video be sure to show ground clearance. I couldn't figure that out, if it would be sufficient if I couldn't section the oil pan, do didn't do that engine. I even bought a performance 911 banana muffler for it. I'm REALLY curious to see what you've got. That should be a dynamite power plant for a 914.
Was that a Renegade engine cradle at one time? I haven't actually seen one before. And I wasn't aware you'd done a cable shifter, so guess I'll have to do a search to find out more about it.
By the way, if your Boxter muffler makes your car sound anything like this EZ30R then you've got a winner: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYsZ1-IqS1w
Anything new on the EZ30 project ?
Its up and running. Map is almost done, dyno this weekend.
Here is a video of it running. click for youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abu5jt1SsZE
cool video
I could not imagine how fast i might accidentally drive with 250hp, i get tickets with 90hp
what are the back wheels resting on in that video??
She's off the Jackstands! Drove her around the block today. Definitely going to do a self autotune for AFR ratio tonight. I know my map is close, but just want to make sure.
Here is my Ethrottle and how i attached it to the stock pedal. Needs major adjustment. Throttle is way too touchy. I lowered the ball snap in point on the pedal so the pedal had more travel, which seems to help a lot.
Now for the fun parts....fine tuning! I knew i should of put back the NON-PUCK clutch pad. This one grabs like a SOB!
Man my camera made everything look rusty, its not its just painted original orange with a little glue residue on the floorboards.
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Be careful that clutch will put a lot of shock on the tranny. Maybe it will break in some. Aftermarket clutches can be real hard on trannys. The light car will help a lot. You can move the gas pedal through the motion you want and measure the full motion of the sender and put the ball socket exactly on the pedal where the full motion can be utilized.
Are you using a knock retard on the link? The leaner it gets the more power it will make but the hotter the combustion will be. Which means it's more susceptable to knock on a really hot day. What fuel will you have it tuned to? A good tuner will listen with a device to detect knock while he is tuning. Just getting bad gas can be a serious threat with close to the optimum (lean) afr, turbos are way more critical but keep in mind the fuel you will have available. A stock ej20 turbo with 14 psi is rated at 227 at the crank not the wheels. ej20 wrx is about 180 at the wheels at best stock. A 300 hp 2.5 sti 17psi stock makes about 240-260 at the wheels. A jdm ej20 turbo motor had 9:1 compression where the ej20 US wrx has around 8:1 so the jdm could make more power but the same boost of 14psi is real tricky on US gas. None of this will apply to your motor though as it's not jdm. Be sure the tuner knows you want it safe on the gas you expect to find easily. Actually the timing tuning probably will help as much as the afr tuning. The only way to push the limits for the most power is to use a knock retard ecu though.
You can get use to the clutch.
You can probably also set the level of noise it will trigger on then that should be great.
I wouldnt actually tune over 12.5 for WOT...11.5-12.5 is about right, turbo motors like closer to 11.5.
Between 9.0 to 12.5? your probably going to gain another 20-30hp I would think.
Oh and I agree on a full surface clutch.. A strong pressure plate? Yes, Puck clutch? Not on the street, Especially for a v6, just NOT needed in that situation.
I'm definitely glad I converted mine over to the EJ20. Nice smooth running engine and gives it whole different personality. Nice when the turbo spools up and the way it pushes it down the road, plus normal oil changes and filters from Wally World, no valve adjustments, under dash heater and 33 mpg.
I think it may even be faster than that 3.6 converion I had.
I gave like $2,300.00 for the engine with all the accessories with 30,000 miles on it from WRX-TX and Sebastian has exceptional service after the sale.
Case closed!
LK
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Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.
Ed
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You know the subaru 6 EZ30R will bolt right into your renegade mount with no mods right? Thats what i am using.
[quote name='budman5201' date='Jun 20 2010, 04:50 PM' post='1333142']
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Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.
Ed
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You know the subaru 6 EZ30R will bolt right into your renegade mount with no mods right? Thats what i am using.
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I wondered about that. It looked like the motor mounts were identical.
Ed
Map is 90 % there! AFR is right on the money, except for a few more load points that will be set at the dyno in 10 hours!! Excited to see the max HP of this baby. I bet it only comes in about 215/220 at the wheels. We will see....
Right now, smooth as silk driving (except for my puck clutch! taking off in first gear )
6 + hours at the dyno, Had to cut it short. $$$$
If we only had more time, we could of played a little more and got some more out of it....
So far we got 206.2 HP and 175.6 Lbs Torque AT the WHEELS!!
This is also with the restrictive 2006 Porsche 2.7 Boxster stock Muffler. Most of the dyno time took tracing down a misfire problem which turned out to be 2 injector plugs that were not fully grabbing the contacts when you plugged them in. VERY frustrating and $$ consuming.
DYNO SHEET ATTACHED TO THIS POST. (look below)
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scan0001.pdf ( 211.43k )
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Okay horsepower guys....the guys in new Zealand said they can get a few less ponies but their torque was about 40 lbs higher, can u look at my dyno sheets and see anything that would help me pick up more torque? Stock engine but 2.7 liter boxster muffler
Not too shabby by any means!
I'll take a WAG:
1) is the throttle body opening all the way at WOT?
2) funny dip in the torque curve - guessing something is going on with the exhaust? Possibly primary lengths (diameter?) not optimized for cams/headflow/operating range?
3) Maybe too restrictive on the exhaust? Be interesting to see what a free-er flowing muffler would do, and larger exhaust tubing sizes.
4) Also, is the air filter big enough for the required airflow?
I want to hear that thing winging out at 7K rpm!
Jeff
You can lean out your fuel curve 1/2 to 3/4 of a point from 3500-6k. Try getting it to run closer to 12.5.
Asside from that, your muffler might be to restrictive like the others have mentioned. Try simply unbolting it and taking a butt dyno (If you do this, dont lean out your fuel curve....).
Could it be down on power because you're trying to put a German muffler on a Japanese engine... in a German car? And somebody's offended?
Budman, Its not going to be THAT loud.. Your still going to have the exhaust piping to calm it down. Do it at 2pm on a saturday or weekday if you can, Driving at low speeds wont be deffeneing. It'll be loud sure, but you'll be OK.
WOT you'll have to be in the country for though. But you'll be able to get to the country and back without really pissing someone off.. This will tell you if there is something up with that muffler without spending money..
When I did my v8 conversion I used the exhaust that came with it, it had a cat and was pretty small tubing. After swapping that out with a nice dual system I went from about 170hp to ~ 220hp. It was THAT restrictive!
I have never read of or experienced a quiet muffler that will make the same power output as a freeflowing one. Also as you were saying the air input needs to be large enough to match the cfm requirements of a 3.0 not a 2.0. What is the ID of the throttle body?You can see all the way through the exhaust of a high flowing exhaust, it will just be different size expansion chambers to level the highs.
The 180 of the wrx at the wheels was a awd (4wheels driving) power at the wheels that is using another ring and pinion so it would be higher in just a 2wd rwd application as you saw in the 2.0 you had earlier.
The na motor stock is always engineered for more torque down low to give the best normal use mpg and performance. It won't have a big hp and torque number until it has a cam that flows more air and fuel than stock and also usually will rev higher to flow more air. Try to get the tuning stuff from the aussies and disconnect the muffler and see how that goes and then you will have a target to shoot for.
You can save some money by data logging and tuning more yourself. Be sure to monitor the afr if you do try a more open exhaust as Andrew said. Your motor will get a lot more expensive if it needs new pistons.
Better flowing muffler and more tuning with air intake that is 10% bigger than the tb and it should be as good as it can be.
Also I would have to ask my son but I'm pretty sure his afr's are higher that 12.5 for the na part of his tuning. His intake ports flow about 280 cfm at 420. lift on his 2.5, I would bet the 3.0 will flow 240 stock at 380 400 lift.
I don't really see the muffler causing the torque dip at lower rpms.
Cruising Video
oops more suspense, have to load to youtube. mp4 isnt accepted on here.
youtube video!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_aNEWTTgls
MORE Gas pedal!
youtube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLTLXkQirYM
another with more gas pedal!
youtube video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwGK3EHn4EQ
Cool, sounds just like a Boxster. That's what I expected since the firing order for the two engines are almost the same. Is that the sound you were after?
Yeah i am actually very happy with the sound. future license plate....
73BXSTR
Ha ha! Good one!
So the big question, how is it to drive, compared with the WRX motor? Maybe a little less power/torque right now, but better throttle response?
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