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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Basic Maintenance Threads?
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 09:40 AM
I'm about to purchase my first 914 and am wondering if there are any basic routine maintenance threads available, for example:
- Changing Oil and Filter (and what's the right oil type and interval)
- Changing other fluids (trans, brake, etc) and what the preferred fluids are
- Changing spark plugs and proper torque settings
- Changing Headlamps and other lamps
- Changing cabin filter (is there one??)
- etc.
Normally I'd just go in and muck about...but breaking clips, lenses, and screws on a 36 year old car may make for expensive and lengthy replacements.
I've done some searching for this stuff and come up empty so I apologize in advance if I missed it. It could be because there's a book or two that all you guys have that I need to buy that covers all this stuff.
Thanks and looking forward to joining the madness!
Rich
Posted by: TROJANMAN Apr 8 2010, 09:42 AM
http://www.haynes.com/repairmanuals/porsche/914
Or you could try the search function
Or you could http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_articles.htm
Good luck with your purchase.......
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 8 2010, 11:47 AM
In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008".
Oh, and
The Cap'n
Posted by: flipb Apr 8 2010, 12:09 PM
Instant Classic!
Posted by: rjames Apr 8 2010, 12:09 PM
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 10:47 AM)
In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008".
Oh, and
The Cap'n
That's a kick-ass welcome!
Don't forget:
Posted by: KELTY360 Apr 8 2010, 12:14 PM
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 10:47 AM)
In moderate weather, 20w50, a Mann, Mahle, or Hengst filter, NEVER anything else. I consider it important to drop and clean the sump screen at each oil change. The valves should be adjusted when you change the oil, about every 3000 miles. Be careful when you reinstall the screen and cover, the torque on the nut is not more than 11 ft/lbs! The valve adjustment procedure is found in the classic forum, here at the World. Cabin air filters first appeared in cars about 20 years after the 914 was built, so I would guess you don't have to spend a lot of time worrying about that. Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment, cap and rotor as needed, condenser (again, Bosch only!) only when the points show pretty severe pitting. There are 914s out there running the original condenser. Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 2 years, tranny oil when you feel you just HAVE to do it (it doesn't wear out and get fulla crap like motor oil) and it's 89-90, 90, or 80/90-140 GL5 ONLY. No one-size-fits-all, and no MoSO2! No GL4! Headlight bulbs are held in place by 3 rusted in screws per bulb, accessible after the plastic cover is removed (2 screws). Other bulbs just twist in, like any other bayonet base bulb. Be SURE you get the right bulb. Match what you have, don't listen to the Bozo behind the parts counter. While we're on it, it's best to stick with genuine Bosch electrical components wherever they're used in the car. FLAPS guys will nearly always try to sell you cheap junk that doesn't fit. I recommend GPR, active participants on this site. Oh, torques, etc. Plugs get tightened until the crush ring crushes, points get sea ta .016" (dwell is 47 degrees +/- 2), timing for a D-jet car is 28 degrees BTDC at 2800 RPM, vacuum lines off and plugged. Plug gap is .028". Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny. Synthetic gear oil is fine, but it costs a TON, and isn't really any better. Clutch adjustment is 19-22mm of free play when you PULL the pedal. Valve adjustment is .006" for all, unless you have a 2.0 with sodium filled exhaust valves, which are set at .008".
Oh, and
The Cap'n
Great reply! Just one question: what do I do if my headlight screws aren't rusted?
Posted by: jaxdream Apr 8 2010, 12:55 PM
I'm sure someone here can get those rusty screws out to ya , if no replies , I believe I have a pile I could send to you in case you can't find any around the garage!!
Jack / Jaxdream
Posted by: jaxdream Apr 8 2010, 12:57 PM
Very nice indeed, Capt'.
BTW
Jack / Jaxdream
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 01:09 PM
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 01:47 PM)
Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment
The car I'm looking at had a points to electronic conversion so I won't have to deal with that (unless I buy a different car or swap back to points).
Valve adjustment every 6k miles?!? Plugs every other oil change?!? Guess I'm going to get good at finding TDC...
Posted by: tat2dphreak Apr 8 2010, 01:10 PM
epic post, Capt'n!
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 01:10 PM
QUOTE
I haven't bought a car yet but if all goes well it will be in my garage on monday! That's assuming I can source a 7-pin trailer wiring harness for my truck either today or tomorrow...
Posted by: ellisor3 Apr 8 2010, 01:13 PM
Copy straight to Wikipedia
Posted by: MDG Apr 8 2010, 01:25 PM
who needs a Haynes covered in greasy fingerprints!
One for the classics for sure. Thank you Cap'n
Posted by: jimkelly Apr 8 2010, 01:45 PM
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_articles.htm
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 8 2010, 01:47 PM
QUOTE(rwilner @ Apr 8 2010, 12:09 PM)
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 01:47 PM)
Bosch or NGK plugs (W7CC, B6ES), Bosch points (01 011) and cap and rotor. Points and plugs every other oil change/valve adjustment
The car I'm looking at had a points to electronic conversion so I won't have to deal with that (unless I buy a different car or swap back to points).
Valve adjustment every 6k miles?!? Plugs every other oil change?!? Guess I'm going to get good at finding TDC...
Read it again. Valves every 3K miles, along with the oil change.
The Cap'n
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 8 2010, 01:56 PM
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Apr 8 2010, 12:45 PM)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_articles.htm
Hey! I just followed that link, and it leads you to the Pelican Parts easy valve adjustment procedure, difficulty level 3. Right off the bat, he tells you to support one side of the car by placing a jack stand under the engine support crossbar. BAD ADVICE. He follows that with a description of what has to be the most difficult and labor intensive scheme for adjusting the valves I've ever read. Some of us sell parts, and others of us wrench on 914s (and other Porsches) for a living. I hope the other articles are more closely related to reality ..................................
The Cap'n
Posted by: oz371 Apr 8 2010, 02:36 PM
I printed it, framed it, and hung it on every wall in the house!
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 05:08 PM
QUOTE
Read it again. Valves every 3K miles, along with the oil change.
The Cap'n
Even better!
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 05:10 PM
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 03:56 PM)
Hey! I just followed that link, and it leads you to the Pelican Parts easy valve adjustment procedure, difficulty level 3. Right off the bat, he tells you to support one side of the car by placing a jack stand under the engine support crossbar. BAD ADVICE. He follows that with a description of what has to be the most difficult and labor intensive scheme for adjusting the valves I've ever read. Some of us sell parts, and others of us wrench on 914s (and other Porsches) for a living. I hope the other articles are more closely related to reality ..................................
The Cap'n
So Cap'n...the $914 is....what is the RIGHT procedure?
Posted by: Porcharu Apr 8 2010, 05:25 PM
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 10:47 AM)
Always remove the tranny filler plug (17mm inhex) BEFORE you drain it. If it's stuck, you can't refill the tranny.
The Cap'n
Follow this advice (all of it really) - I didn't and found the hex was so tore up that it was impossible to remove. Fortunately I have a Mig welder and was able to weld a 17mm allen wrench to the plug and get it out. With out the Mig I would have been hosed.
Steve
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 8 2010, 05:34 PM
QUOTE(rwilner @ Apr 8 2010, 04:10 PM)
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 03:56 PM)
Hey! I just followed that link, and it leads you to the Pelican Parts easy valve adjustment procedure, difficulty level 3. Right off the bat, he tells you to support one side of the car by placing a jack stand under the engine support crossbar. BAD ADVICE. He follows that with a description of what has to be the most difficult and labor intensive scheme for adjusting the valves I've ever read. Some of us sell parts, and others of us wrench on 914s (and other Porsches) for a living. I hope the other articles are more closely related to reality ..................................
The Cap'n
So Cap'n...the $914 is....what is the RIGHT procedure?
As I mentioned in my first reply, it's in the classic threads section. Here's a link so you don't have to work at it too hard!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758
I haven't looked at it in a while, and there may be some things that need attention, but the basics are there.
The Cap'n
Posted by: kwales Apr 8 2010, 05:35 PM
Nobody maintains their cars because they are all up on jackstands waiting for rust to be fixed and parts to be put back on.
That way, a valve adjustment lasts forever, and the oil doesn't need changing.
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 05:42 PM
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 8 2010, 07:34 PM)
Here's a link so you don't have to work at it too hard!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758
Thanks...the search tool is my friend...
Posted by: r_towle Apr 8 2010, 05:52 PM
What car? The white one?
I have all sorts of stuff up here, tools and parts cars...lemme know if you need anything, and get a list together for Hershey.
Drive down with us...you will be safe with all of us and all our tools etc.
Rich
Posted by: Geezer914 Apr 8 2010, 06:16 PM
What about K&N oil filters???
Posted by: messix Apr 8 2010, 06:31 PM
QUOTE(Geezer914 @ Apr 8 2010, 05:16 PM)
What about K&N oil filters???
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 8 2010, 06:40 PM
QUOTE(Geezer914 @ Apr 8 2010, 05:16 PM)
What about K&N oil filters???
What about them ...................... ?
Posted by: rwilner Apr 8 2010, 07:46 PM
QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 8 2010, 07:52 PM)
What car? The white one?
I have all sorts of stuff up here, tools and parts cars...lemme know if you need anything, and get a list together for Hershey.
Drive down with us...you will be safe with all of us and all our tools etc.
Rich
Think i'm going to go for the orange car in long island assuming it passes the rust test. PM or call to chat about my thought process
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