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Posted by: BK911 Jun 14 2010, 04:52 PM

I am using this:

http://members.rennlist.com/mikecool/tb1718.gif

but am still confused.

When I turn completely CCW there is no resistance. As I turn a couple of clicks CW I get continuity. If I keep turning the resistance eventually goes to zero.

Am I totaly screwing this up?

BTW, I am using a new TPS board from David Sprinkle. Very nicely done. Thanks David!!

Posted by: tradisrad Jun 14 2010, 05:17 PM

I had the same question and I dont recall getting a good answer. Perhaps the author was using an analog meter and "0" means continuity.
I turn it clock wise until I get continuity and then go one more hash mark.
I'm interested to see what ohter have to say...

Posted by: BK911 Jun 14 2010, 06:08 PM

Ok thanks. That is where I left mine too. I am also interested in hearing what the experts say.

Posted by: r_towle Jun 14 2010, 06:10 PM

There is an idle circuit that only activates in a single position.
The TPS is designed for many cars and many throttle bodies.
There is ONE way to mount it...its really not adjustable once you mount it correctly.
The pic is as mounted with the throttle body closed.
You can pull the throttle body with the TPS attached and set it up on the bench...no meter needed.
Use the picture below.

Rich


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Pat Garvey Jun 14 2010, 06:14 PM

Agree! Simple device that works well if you leave it alone!
Pat

Posted by: tradisrad Jun 14 2010, 06:34 PM

so is the contact that the arrow points to touching the PCB trace that goes to pin 17 (idle) or is it in the void between the common trace and idle trace. I find it a bit hard to tell where the pad on the armature touches.

Posted by: mipstien Jun 15 2010, 04:36 PM

wondering the same thing

Posted by: windforfun Jun 16 2010, 03:10 PM

When I replaced mine, I put the new one in the same position as the old one. Bingo. It worked fine. I used the alignment notches along the curved mounting slots as my reference. Maybe I just got lucky.

Posted by: detoxcowboy Jun 16 2010, 08:25 PM

there are hash marks on the tps itself and those are enrichment signals for the ecu from the tps for acceleration think of it as a plus one series od signals 1+1+1+1ect.. to the full total of hash marks if you start in the middle your plus ones will never add up to the maxium enrichment available, in other words the top hash is not the 7th level enrichment or whatever but just another signal to the ecu to kick the enrichment up one more enrichment notch from the current level of enrichment, there are hash marks on the throttle body where the tps mounts, using one over the other is contradictive because CW on the throttle mouting hash marks make the armature inside the tps go CCW on the tps has marks, .. close the tps and use the left side hash marks on the throttle mounting for the tps and an ohm meter.. should end up being just before the series of hash marks on tps with your first 1ohm reading,

You can also look at another tps and see where the wear marks are, above in Towle's picture is wear marks just below wear the armature is.. that is where mine ends up set with the ohm meter and it runs and idles very well..

Posted by: barndoor Oct 29 2012, 01:05 PM

Hi Guys
I have been reading this thread,then went and pulled my throttle body,removed the TPS cover and heres what it looks like.
What do you guys think ? Is it too worn ?
Out of adjustment ?
I have the "bucking" like everyone else w/ the TPS problem.