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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Inner Long shots: Eastwood Inner Frame Coating

Posted by: bobhasissues Jun 29 2010, 08:48 PM

I installed an Engman kit and am in the process of repairing the jack posts, so I thought I would clean up the inner longs while I'm in there. I had areas of surface rust on the lower edges of the wheel arch sections of the longs that I reached in and wire brushed as well as I could. Then I used a garden sprayer and lightly but generously sprayed in some Marine Clean throughout the longs and rinsed. I had to be careful in the wheel arch sections because there are knockouts that open into the suspension consoles and I did not want any wet stuff to pool up in the consoles. Just to make sure, I blew them out with compressed air after each step in the process. Dried the entire longs with compressed air and my shop vac on exhaust. The shop vac exhaust is great because the motor generates warm dry exhaust air and helps to quickly dry everything up. I let it dry more overnight and used the same spray method with some metal ready, soaked and reapplied, neutralized with a water/baking soda solution, then final rinse with clear water. Dried same as before. Wanted to add some form of protection especially since I just added about 300 welds to the longs installing the Engman kit. I did not want to leave those welds on the inside of the longs exposed to start rusting. Eastwood sent me an e-mail about their new Inner Frame Coating product so I thought I'd give it a shot. It's supposed to leave a zinc phosphate coat to inhibit rust, hopefully it works, it certainly won't hurt, and gives me some piece of mind about those new exposed welds. I bought some 1/8" polyethylene tubing and made up longer spray tubes than the ones included with the Eastwood kit (which are too short to get all the way to the front or rear of the longs from my access point at the jack post). Coverage is good, took three cans for real good coverage with some left that I will use to finish off the inside of my jack post patches. I'll use the seat belt bolt holes, which are almost directly across from the patches, as access to spray the back side of the new patches.
Attached Image Driver side wheel arch, shows knockouts that access console
Attached Image Passenger side wheel arch
Attached Image
Driver side above heater tube. Shadows hide my new welds down the right side, but they are well covered. Final color is a flat olive (army) green.

Posted by: Krieger914 Jun 29 2010, 09:02 PM

Wow! You may have a rust free car. Keep the pics for the next owner if you ever sell

Posted by: charliew Jun 30 2010, 09:05 AM

It looks good and has to be way better than nothing. I might also use the wax over the phosphate to help against moisture.

Posted by: Root_Werks Jun 30 2010, 09:48 AM

That's sweet!

I've often thought about "fogging" some sort of oily or waxy somthing into the longs.

Posted by: URY914 Jun 30 2010, 10:05 AM

Very nice. Looks like up close and personal on the "914 Cam".

Posted by: windforfun Jun 30 2010, 05:29 PM

Is there any way to get to the heater tubes (for removal) without cutting metal?

Posted by: bobhasissues Jun 30 2010, 07:30 PM

QUOTE(windforfun @ Jun 30 2010, 06:29 PM) *

Is there any way to get to the heater tubes (for removal) without cutting metal?

No.

Posted by: zymurgist Jun 30 2010, 07:40 PM

Looks good! I would have been leery about using Marine Clean on inside surfaces, but it sounds like you got it covered.

Posted by: Ericv1 Jun 30 2010, 08:38 PM

Looks great! I don't think you'll ever have to worry about them again.

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