Doing a search on past threads, I found a few that reference having a 2.7 with CIS installed in a 914, with some modifications, however, I can't seem to find one referencing an installation of a 3.0 SC engine w/ CIS installed.
Anyone ever done this?
I am in the process of doing this now! Here are a few photos of what I have seen others do!
Attached image(s)
Assume you have seen these:
There are a few out there.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91339&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=58296&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=7915&hl=
Another Colorado member is currently installing a 3.0 - and has been waffling between CIS and Carbs (I think CIS won?).
Mine:
Mountain,
Thanks! I had only seen 1 or 2 of those threads, but the third was a bit more helpful. and I hadn't seen that yet.
I guess the question that isn't completely answered is whether you have to remove the trunk latch.
We have a running 3.0 SC engine laying around, and it might go in my car, I'm just debating the carbs vs. CIS question. I'de like to be able to just pull it and and pop it in the 914, as it's already running.
It looks to me that all YOU had to do was remove that trunk latch? I'de love to get more input.
If you want to rework the CIS like I am doing you dont need to cut but if you plan on doing a plug & play with the CIS then you will have to cut (remove the engine lid latch) or lower the engine.
Bolting on the carbs will not give you full horsepower unless you change the cams and rejet the carbs!
I think Perry makes a plug and play CIS harness.
Just bolt in your front mount and drop it 1", then if everything looks cool weld it in proper. My bet is you can keep the latch by droping it and shaving the ribs on the intake boot.
You've got it made with a /6 to pull the goodies from (that's how mine was made). You have to remove the rain tray and engine grill latch to keep the CIS unaltered - but as you can see coming up with a latching solution isn't very difficult. Somebody else on here used hoodpins, I think (that they could lock).
And yeah - battery can stay right where it is.
You are going to have a fun project ahead
What's the story on the 2.2S motor? I figured you'd pop that in.
Cap'n,
Really? For a young guy like me thats learning, I would think the 3.0 would be a 'safer' choice and that overall the 3.0 would be better. Plus, I'm afraid that the S could get really expensive should something happen.
Your thoughts?
Should something happen either engine will cost you money. New 2.2S P/C's are spendy at around 4.5K. If yours are good you just need to hone and re-ring. The 3.0 case is better out of the box but you can upgrade the 2.2 case to eliminate problems. IHMO is doesn't get better than the 2.2 or 2.4 S. They fit without mods and give you @ 180 hp.
If you sell or part out that S motor PM me. I've got a 2.4T and I'm in the market for good 2.2S P/C's and S dizzy.
I can make an engine harness for a CIS engine, I do need your core harness and depending on the application maybe your 4 cyl engine harness too.
You hear all kinds of opinions on the small displacement S engines, but you should drive one before you decide it's too "finicky". In the early 70's if you wanted the hottest 911 you got a 911S. The 2.2S engine is a lot of fun, especially in a 914. There's something about a small displacement peaky, high reving engine in a 914.
Don't get me wrong, I had a 3.0 914 that was awesome. The 3.0 has loads of low end torque. The first time my wife drove the car she started from a dead stop in 3rd gear, you won't get away with that with any 2.2! At the rev limiter 3rd would get you about 75mph. 0-50 was about 5 seconds, but 0-60 wasn't that good as you had to shift to 3rd.
The learning curve can be expensive, so if you make a rookie FUBAR on any Porsche engine, it's going to cost you.
I also have a 3.0L SC standing by to be installed into my 914. Currently in the research phase. I've been hearing the CIS won't fit, some say yes some say no. But the pictures show the truth, it fits with some slight trimming of the rubber.
This might be a noob question, but what do you mean by plug and play CIS?
Rotate the Fuel dist 180 and move the engine lid latch system to the oposite side, same place, just the pass side instead of the drivers side.
Been there, done that, it all fits. No need to lower the mounting of the engine/trans.
I'll throw in my .02 wrt the 2.2S motor. While they have a certain mystique, you should really drive one so you know what they mean by 'peaky' cams. I had a '67 2.0S a few years ago with a top-notch motor. But it was an absolute PIG until around 4500 rpms, then everything lined up and it accelerated well. At 80mph in third gear the car was really on step. My wife's mini-van was better off the line. I ended up selling it because it was such a beast and a then, like now, an expensive collector car.
If you wanted to put the 2.2 in, I'd recommend either mod-S cams or E cams. They'll give you a little better drivability.
Again, my opinion only. The S cars have a huge following and many would think me weird.
2.2's a couple of issues back in Excellence a Northern Cal Porsche dealer had 3 Silver 1971 2.2's the T, E & S. The writer gave an excellent assessment of all three offerings and came back with his pick being the E, 155 HP great mid range tourque and an absolute ball to drive. I would think the E would be the pick of the 2.2's because you don't have to get the RPM's above 5000 to get the power band to perform. I actually have a 1970 2.2 E case that I am thinking about rebuilding for my next 914 project but am slightly hesitant about the magnesium case, but Capt. all head studs are still intact.
In defense of the 3.0, I have an 1980 911SC Weissach, I love the engine great midrange tourque, if you can make it work this would be great, if you can rebuild one and add the ARP Head studs all the better, I like the fact that the 3.0 has the Aluminum case.
Vysoc
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