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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 914/6 Oil Tank Dimensions
Posted by: jmill Aug 4 2010, 04:25 PM
I'm hoping some one has a pdf of the oil tank dimensions. I want to build one like brant. Heck I'll send him a pm and see if he has them. If you've built your own or have the dimensions feel free to post them. Pics are good.
Posted by: patssle Aug 4 2010, 04:37 PM
I'd take one too...if its a bit cheaper than the other alternative (PMS).
Anybody know why dwdesignwerks stopped making the oil tank?
Posted by: SirAndy Aug 4 2010, 04:40 PM
Because he moved to Australia (if i recall correctly) ...
I thought someone here on the board was going to take over production from him. What ever happened to that?
Andy
Posted by: jmill Aug 4 2010, 04:51 PM
This is where I saw his tank. It's sweet!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=100288&hl=oil++tank
Posted by: jmill Aug 4 2010, 06:41 PM
Drawings found on this thread!!! Does anyone still have the large original?
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=45335&hl=
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Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 4 2010, 07:22 PM
I boosted these photos from someplace... 
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Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 4 2010, 07:28 PM
How much do the filter consoles and filler necks cost and where can you purchase them? BTW: The screen is knocks the air out of the falling return oil. The one in the aluminum tank looks like it have quite large holes compared to factory tank. This is the key to building a good tank IMHO.
Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 4 2010, 07:33 PM
I was looking at this and wondering, why is it necessary to have the plumbing and oil filter hookup in/on the tank? If you are building your own, why not simplify it and place the filter vertically, and remotely? Make the tank a tank, oil in the top, out the bottom. No?
Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 4 2010, 07:39 PM
I was looking at this and wondering, why is it necessary to have the plumbing and oil filter hookup in/on the tank? If you are building your own, why not simplify it and place the filter vertically, and remotely? Make the tank a tank, oil in the top, out the bottom. No?
It looks like the aluminum tank is built this way. A remote filter console is not a big deal. The filter should have the builtin check valve though I would think.
Posted by: BigD9146gt Aug 4 2010, 07:45 PM
Mike, your spot on. There is no reason but compactness to have the filter on the tank... for the 3.6 engine guys, a tank without the filter would suffice. I designed my tank to obsessively be like the OEM tank, nothing more, nothing less. Well, a pound lighter and more volume, and better cooling (aluminium vs steel)... but those were all bonus
Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 4 2010, 07:50 PM
But the aluminum tank still keeps the plumbing within the tank which is one of the obstacles to building an easy tank.
I figure a line out of the bottom of the tank and in to a remote cooler mount, like the one in my bus that has the bypass valve and is cheap and readily available, out of the mount to the engine, and a return line from the engine to the top of the tank would be easy to do and take up little space. Then, you still get to use the spare room in the fender as intended 
It does appear that the aluminum tank was intended this way.
Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 4 2010, 07:51 PM
Mike, your spot on. There is no reason but compactness to have the filter on the tank... for the 3.6 engine guys, a tank without the filter would suffice. I designed my tank to obsessively be like the OEM tank, nothing more, nothing less. Well, a pound lighter and more volume, and better cooling (aluminium vs steel)... but those were all bonus
Definitely not detracting form your most awesome tank
Just trying to see if a simpler home version could be fabbed by the CSOBs like me on the forum 
Posted by: BigD9146gt Aug 4 2010, 10:55 PM
Thanks for the props Mike. My ultimate 914-6 tank would be to stamp two halves (like the OEM tank) out of stainless like the 996 tanks. With two halves it would be less welding for me, but cost would probably be higher unless I could invest a boatload to stamp 1000+ units. But then the question is how long do I have to sit on that many to recoup the costs.
Simply its a tank, oil in, oil out. However how the internals work (screens, plumbing, baffling, etc) will make a difference.
Posted by: Jeffs9146 Aug 5 2010, 12:13 AM
Since we have two threads going here is the photo of what I have to get rid of!!
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Posted by: Jeffs9146 Aug 5 2010, 12:21 AM
another
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Posted by: jmill Aug 5 2010, 01:16 PM
Sir Andy, links are dead. Do you still have this info floating around in cyberspace? Mike's looking to see if he still has them also. I'm hoping you can just fix the links so I don't have to worry about email size limits.
Thanks
With SirAndy's help, I have uploaded a couple of versions of the factory drawings for the /6 oil tank.
I have a copy that was made by the factory from a database of digitized drawings. The copy that I have is pretty big, not in front of me, but something like 3 feet by 4 feet. It shows the tank full size.
I had it scanned, and I got three files, two of which I uploaded: a 22meg pdf and a 7 meg (approx) Jpeg.
Here's the pdf link:
http://www.914world.com/videos/plan.pdf
and the Jpeg:
http://www.914world.com/videos/plan.jpg
Big files of course. If someone is able to reduce one of them to make it easier for those who don't have the latest connections, please do so.
The third file is a .psd extension. Dunno what that is, but it's 48 meg !
Michel Richard
Posted by: brant Aug 5 2010, 01:27 PM
The aluminum tank is mine. I built it as a welding class project. It does fit in the stock location. There really isn't any plumbing inside of it. There is an inlet that directs the "fall" of oil over hte screen. There also is a breather that has a baffle partially covering it to keep oil slosh from directly exiting. I also baffled the bottom of the tank to potentially improve corning oil over stock.
but it really doesn't have any plumbing in it. The stock or nice repro tanks have tubing so that returning oil is forced through the filter prior to dropping into the pool below.
I skipped that for better mounting flexibility and am going to use a remote oil filter.
With the stock filler neck and dipstick, this tank has about 175$ in supplies alone. If someone was paying for labour, professional welding, and the costs of tooling, I don't think the prices of aftermarket tanks are making anyone rich.
Posted by: SirAndy Aug 5 2010, 01:35 PM
No idea what happened to those files ...
I *may* have a old backup of that folder at home, but you'll have to wait until tonight to find out.
Andy
Posted by: 9146986 Aug 5 2010, 04:21 PM
I have a good friend that has a stainless fabrication shop. If he can get a good print, he can quote.
Posted by: jmill Aug 5 2010, 06:11 PM
If someone can come up with the print you might want to run it by your friend. If he can produce a quality product cheaper than the current options I'm sure he'll have buyers.
It won't work for me though. I'd like to save a bunch of money by making my own close to OEM tank.
Posted by: sixnotfour Aug 5 2010, 08:17 PM
Thats what steve peters was going to do.
Posted by: John Aug 5 2010, 10:17 PM
I tried uploading a 22MB file a few times, but it would time out.
Here are some pics of a tank someone cut up.
Posted by: John Aug 5 2010, 10:18 PM
more
Posted by: John Aug 5 2010, 10:19 PM
more
Posted by: John Aug 5 2010, 10:20 PM
more
Posted by: Porscheman912 Aug 5 2010, 11:31 PM
I'm hoping some one has a pdf of the oil tank dimensions. I want to build one like brant. Heck I'll send him a pm and see if he has them. If you've built your own or have the dimensions feel free to post them. Pics are good.
Let me know if you do not get what you are looking for. My OEM tank is going to be here tomorrow, and I will be using that in my 914-6, but I am going to copy it for another 6 project. Good luck
Posted by: SirAndy Aug 6 2010, 12:41 AM
Ok, i found a old backup ...
Both links are live again:
http://www.914world.com/videos/plan.pdf ~22MB
http://www.914world.com/videos/plan.jpg ~6MB
Andy
Posted by: jmill Aug 6 2010, 09:19 AM
Thanks Andy. Having build many aircraft parts using a print alone I hate to say this print is poor. I assume it's scaled in mm. There are few to no measurements listed. In order to easily build it from scratch I'll have to blow up the print to actual size or do a bunch of conversions using the 100 mm reference lines.
Can someone please get me a center to center measurement on the top mounting bolts of the tank. That way I can check the print scale to make sure its accurate. Any other measurement would help also.
Thanks.
Posted by: jmill Aug 7 2010, 11:15 AM
Can someone out there please get a center to center measurement of the mounting bolts. If the lines are indeed 100mm the print is @ 95% as downloaded. I've blown up the picture to have the horizontal grid lines = 100mm. Unfortunately the vertical grid lines are all over the map from 103 to 95 mm. If I can get this measurement I can build the tank.
On a side note the vertical grid lines give you the horizontal measurements and the horizontal give you the vertical.
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Posted by: 9146986 Aug 7 2010, 12:50 PM
So was there a baffle, or some tube arrangement in the tanks that you were making Don?
If I'm looking at the inside of the factory tank correctly, it appears that the pressure side is going to the filter and then dumping back into the tank above the screen, so the oil can't short cut right back to the suction side of the circuit.
So in theory you could just do the whole thing in -12 with the return dumping in the top of the tank, and remotely locate the filter console (like a Mecca or Oberg) wherever you want.
Posted by: McMark Aug 7 2010, 12:55 PM
John, all 914 chassis are stamped with the 'bosses' for those studs to pass through. Measuring your car should give you a number that's close enough. My measurements look like 26 cm to me.
Posted by: Eric_Shea Aug 7 2010, 03:42 PM
John... you can get that measurement from the inside of your engine compartment on your 914. All of them are stamped for these mounts.
Posted by: BigD9146gt Aug 7 2010, 06:28 PM
So was there a baffle, or some tube arrangement in the tanks that you were making Don?
No baffling, but I did change the tube that dumped the oil out to the back of the tank, tangent to the slope. This cut down on foaming, as well as put hot oil at the back where cooling was optimal. If you keep your oil level right, you shouldn't have a problem with oil starvation. If your racing hill climbs, and have oil starvation issues, baffling would only be my third thought... far behind an accusump or cylinder style oil tank.
Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 11 2010, 06:11 AM
Keep us updated as I will also be building a tank.
I like the thought of stainless steel.
I thought about just making one out of sheet metal as the rust issue is just the outside top, right?
The other thought was could you make one out of fiberglass? They do make oil and gas tanks out of FG.
How about a plastic tank? My buddies Polaris ATV uses a plastic tank...
Posted by: 9146986 Aug 11 2010, 11:57 AM
Mark Stephens High Performance tried to make fiberglass tanks, unsuccessfully though.
It would have to be some serious plastic to take the oil temps.
Posted by: McMark Aug 11 2010, 06:30 PM
The toughest issue (IMHO) with a fiberglass tank would be creating the bosses for the hoses to thread into. If you're not careful in your design there it would be easy for people to rip those things off. If you could deal with that issue, the rest would be pretty easy.
Posted by: jmill Aug 11 2010, 06:52 PM
Mild steel would be the easiest to build. You can paint the outside and coat the inside to minimize rust. I don't like the odds of a rust flake travelling through the bearings though. I'm going with aluminum for fear of just that.
I haven't decided whether to form it or piece it. Forming is time consuming but it limits the amount of seams.
Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 11 2010, 07:49 PM
Mild steel would be the easiest to build. You can paint the outside and coat the inside to minimize rust. I don't like the odds of a rust flake travelling through the bearings though. I'm going with aluminum for fear of just that.
I haven't decided whether to form it or piece it. Forming is time consuming but it limits the amount of seams.
Aluminum and formed. You could make a wood buck for a hammer form pretty easy. This is just another one of those projects I would do if my life was different. Working for a living is over rated. 
lottery anyone?
Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 11 2010, 10:39 PM
I had a buddy (dead...the nerve) who restored english cars and he made some one off parts by making press dies out of concrete then running over them with a big tractor. He said they only lasted one or two parts, but that was all he needed.
He also welded up steel plate and would use a 50 ton shop press. I saw a few of these parts and they were real nice, but the ones I saw were smaller than a tank.
I have the same fear as you about a steel tank, although from what I've seen they rust from the outside in. I cut up a crusty, brazed up 911 tank and it was quite clean inside. Porsche copper coated the outside of the tank, but I don't think the inside was done.
You could also mount a couple of cow magnets by the outlet.
What thickness of aluminum would you use Rick?
Making a buck would be no problem as I have a borrowed /6 tank (crusty, brazed up) sitting here to copy from.
I've got till the end of the winter to think about and research this...right now I'm thinking aluminum or stainless.
Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 12 2010, 10:09 AM
Cow magnets? Why would you want to attract cows?
Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 12 2010, 01:41 PM
Cow magnets? Why would you want to attract cows?
So that they come home....silly rabbit.
Posted by: rick 918-S Aug 12 2010, 05:16 PM
What thickness of aluminum would you use Rick?
Making a buck would be no problem as I have a borrowed /6 tank (crusty, brazed up) sitting here to copy from.
I've got till the end of the winter to think about and research this...right now I'm thinking aluminum or stainless.
18 GA. 16 GA. would be better. if you can anneal it. You could build a hammer form from oak or some hardwood. Concrete works nice too. A male and female steel mold would work good with a 10 ton press on aluminum.
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