Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: EdArango Aug 12 2010, 06:27 PM

OK.....You guys must think I'm nutz by now!!

Over the last couple of weeks my son and I have decided to keep the car and begin re-doing it. As most of us I would love to have a 6 cyl. but cash and time is preventing me from moving forward with that idea.

What I think I'll do is clean this car us as much as I can, get the rust issues taken care of (see pics)....(I don't know the the PO was thinking, there is expansion foam in all the openings in the car, such as hell hole & pass. longs)..... upgrade the engine to 2056, leave it as a 4 lug but upgrade the suspension, add a front sway-bar, change out the A-arm bearings with the Elephant stuff and I think I'll be good to go for a while.

What do you guys think????????

ED

Posted by: 914Sixer Aug 12 2010, 06:29 PM

Nothing more than the usual places, SO far.

Posted by: EdArango Aug 12 2010, 06:33 PM

QUOTE(914Sixer @ Aug 12 2010, 05:29 PM)

Posted by: EdArango Aug 12 2010, 06:37 PM

On another subject....Did I ever show you guys what I bought her for Mother's Day???...........



What a great husband!!....lol!!!

ED

Posted by: Tom Aug 12 2010, 06:40 PM

Ok, I'll bite. What are they?
Tom

Posted by: EdArango Aug 12 2010, 06:47 PM

QUOTE(Tom @ Aug 12 2010, 05:40 PM)

Posted by: Tom Aug 12 2010, 06:57 PM

LOL, too funny!
Tom

Posted by: Tom_T Aug 12 2010, 07:32 PM

Ed - Man - I want my garage to look like yours someday!!
... if that is one of those Craftsman 33 gal 150 psi compressors - how do you like it?
They're on clearance sale now, & I'm thinking about getting one.

Engine Thots -

Check out Jake Raby's MassIVe website (over in GA) & the website for FAT Performance here in Orange - both are noted Type IV engine builders.

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/

http://www.fatperformance.com/

If you want to go full bore hopped up, but stay "bolt in engine with minimal mods - then look at a 2270 cc with carbs, you can get 145+ hp & a ton more Torque - all at 200-300 lbs. LESS than a 6 (BTW - original 914-6 was only 110 hp & about the same torque as the 2.0 T-4 but at much higher rpm). It's all a matter of how much you want to spend, & how much the wife will allow!

Rust issues -

1. The foam & injection into the crevices was a factory measure thought to prevent the rust, but the porosity actually held the moisture & made it worse! So that was a DAF not a DAPO!

2. Pull off your engine bay heat pad & check it for rust, since I can see that hole behind the pass. seat, & it's likely on the other side & all along the engine tray to firewall joint. Unfortunately our 73's & earlier 914s with the early engine lid rain trays would warp from the engine heat, then dump water onto the engine bay firewall heat/sound pad, & the sisal backing on that will hold moisture against the firewall until it rusts through - & it seems to collect at the bottom of the pad along the engine shelf there!

3. Also pull off your steering rack cover pan & poke around up behind there - esp. where the steering cross-member struts are welded to the underpan, & it's usually worse on the pass. side due to past washer bottle/hose leaks draining down into the crevice below the tanks.

4. Other favorite rust hiding spots are: under that lovely factory foam, floor pan tar (IIRC you already did that) & seam sealer, around the windshield & sail/rollbar trim, under the outer door seals (esp. at the door bottoms), under the F trunk seal in the channel, under the headlights, at the horn, fog light & F&R bumper attachment points, F & R trunk floors, L&R rear door jambs, under the cowl seals, oh ..... & just about anywhere else!

5. It looks like you'll need a major hell hole & pass long repair - so do the suspension console, longs, inner wheel well, battery tray/support, firewall, engine shelf(ves), jack tube/support, etc. all at the same time & fix it right from the git-go! Restoration Design has most/all parts for that, & are a member vendor here (may be a member discount at their posting.

Suspension & Wheel Thots -

If you're using it for street use or even AX, I don't know that Elephant is necessary, since the OEM bearings were pretty good & are still available (FAG is one OES for them still around today). My 73 2L had factory F & R sways which seemed to help in cornering a lot, so adding either factory or aftermarket sway(s) is a good idea, although some AXers & Racers say the rear sway is unnecessary. IMHO they help keep the car level in hard turns & not lift a wheel so much.

If you stay with 4 lug wheels, the Fuchs 2L are about 10 lbs. each & the Mahles & then Pedrinis are only a little more (someone weighed them & had a chart on here somewhere), & those being "factory issue" wheels for the 914 would meet their specs for stress in hard corners. That is - if you're looking to change wheels.

I've also heard some folks say that the later repop Rivieras are not as strong as those wheels, although I've had the old original 70's Rivs on mine since I bought it used back in 75 & never had any problem - so maybe the old originals aren't bad, but they may weigh more than the 3 factory wheels. Rivs were never a factory wheel, although many dealers would be happy to put them on a customer's 914, as with the Western/Gurney, Empi & other aftermarket wheels back in the day - for a price!

I can't tell which type you have on there, but the old Rivs had a smooth rim with no lip on it (to discourage the use of clamp-on balancing weights). FYI for your comparison - here's a pic of one of my original Rivs, still with the original Riv logo bullet caps, they're not heavily oxidized but rather are the brushed aluminum finish (rather than polished, not have they been cleaned since she went on blocks in my garage in 85)) -



Tires, well that's a whole nutha subject, & varies widely by your driving, use of the 914 on & off street, personal preferences & everybody's opinions are different!

Posted by: EdArango Aug 12 2010, 07:51 PM

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Aug 12 2010, 06:32 PM)

Ed - Man - I want my garage to look like yours someday!!
... if that is one of those Craftsman 33 gal 150 psi compressors - how do you like it?
They're on clearance sale now, & I'm thinking about getting one.

Engine Thots -

Check out Jake Raby's MassIVe website (over in GA) & the website for FAT Performance here in Orange - both are noted Type IV engine builders.

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/

http://www.fatperformance.com/

If you want to go full bore hopped up, but stay "bolt in engine with minimal mods - then look at a 2270 cc with carbs, you can get 145+ hp & a ton more Torque - all at 200-300 lbs. LESS than a 6 (BTW - original 914-6 was only 110 hp & about the same torque as the 2.0 T-4 but at much higher rpm). It's all a matter of how much you want to spend, & how much the wife will allow!

Rust issues -

1. The foam & injection into the crevices was a factory measure thought to prevent the rust, but the porosity actually held the moisture & made it worse! So that was a DAF not a DAPO!

2. Pull off your engine bay heat pad & check it for rust, since I can see that hole behind the pass. seat, & it's likely on the other side & all along the engine tray to firewall joint. Unfortunately our 73's & earlier 914s with the early engine lid rain trays would warp from the engine heat, then dump water onto the engine bay firewall heat/sound pad, & the sisal backing on that will hold moisture against the firewall until it rusts through - & it seems to collect at the bottom of the pad along the engine shelf there!

3. Also pull off your steering rack cover pan & poke around up behind there - esp. where the steering cross-member struts are welded to the underpan, & it's usually worse on the pass. side due to past washer bottle/hose leaks draining down into the crevice below the tanks.

4. Other favorite rust hiding spots are: under that lovely factory foam, floor pan tar (IIRC you already did that) & seam sealer, around the windshield & sail/rollbar trim, under the outer door seals (esp. at the door bottoms), under the F trunk seal in the channel, under the headlights, at the horn, fog light & F&R bumper attachment points, F & R trunk floors, L&R rear door jambs, under the cowl seals, oh ..... & just about anywhere else!

5. It looks like you'll need a major hell hole & pass long repair - so do the suspension console, longs, inner wheel well, battery tray/support, firewall, engine shelf(ves), jack tube/support, etc. all at the same time & fix it right from the git-go! Restoration Design has most/all parts for that, & are a member vendor here (may be a member discount at their posting.

Suspension & Wheel Thots -

If you're using it for street use or even AX, I don't know that Elephant is necessary, since the OEM bearings were pretty good & are still available (FAG is one OES for them still around today). My 73 2L had factory F & R sways which seemed to help in cornering a lot, so adding either factory or aftermarket sway(s) is a good idea, although some AXers & Racers say the rear sway is unnecessary. IMHO they help keep the car level in hard turns & not lift a wheel so much.

If you stay with 4 lug wheels, the Fuchs 2L are about 10 lbs. each & the Mahles & then Pedrinis are only a little more (someone weighed them & had a chart on here somewhere), & those being "factory issue" wheels for the 914 would meet their specs for stress in hard corners. That is - if you're looking to change wheels.

I've also heard some folks say that the later repop Rivieras are not as strong as those wheels, although I've had the old original 70's Rivs on mine since I bought it used back in 75 & never had any problem - so maybe the old originals aren't bad, but they may weigh more than the 3 factory wheels. Rivs were never a factory wheel, although many dealers would be happy to put them on a customer's 914, as with the Western/Gurney, Empi & other aftermarket wheels back in the day - for a price!

I can't tell which type you have on there, but the old Rivs had a smooth rim with no lip on it (to discourage the use of clamp-on balancing weights). FYI for your comparison - here's a pic of one of my original Rivs, still with the original Riv logo bullet caps, they're not heavily oxidized but rather are the brushed aluminum finish (rather than polished, not have they been cleaned since she went on blocks in my garage in 85)) -

Tires, well that's a whole nutha subject, & varies widely by your driving, use of the 914 on & off street, personal preferences & everybody's opinions are different!

Posted by: Tom_T Aug 12 2010, 10:00 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Aug 12 2010, 06:51 PM)

Tom!!!
You are a bank of knowledge!!!! You know I'm in HB so you've got to come over to my place to check out the car and have a beer.

Maybe next week if you can make it sometime after work or over the weekend>

Thanks man!!

ED

Posted by: Spoke Aug 13 2010, 06:40 AM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Aug 12 2010, 08:47 PM)

Porsche 917

Posted by: Tom_T Aug 13 2010, 03:31 PM

Hey Ed - Spoke/Jerry just pointed out that when you said: "...change out the A-arm bearings with the Elephant stuff...." - that you probably meant bushings - not wheel bearings as I thought you meant.

If you meant wheel bearings, FAG is still a good street choice.

However, if you meant the various F&R Suspension Bushings - then the question again comes back to street or AX/track use - or both, cuz the AX/track will give a harsher ride but better turning performance (& may bump you into a different class).

For street, I would've preferred to stay factory on my resto, but since most or all are now NLA, I went with the Weltmeister Street level bushings for all Susp. & Sway Bar connections, but nothing has been installed yet & my rusto/resto is a long way off - so I can't speak to hands-on ride quality & handling with them yet.

If you're looking for AX/Track or both, then I can't really speak as to whether Elephant, Weltmeister or any of the others are better, cuz I just don't know.

Also, if your tie-rods are shot or heavily worn & in need of relpacement, then you might want to consider a Turbo Tie-rod Kit, but IMHO stick with the Lemforder (sp?) OEM Tie-rod kit - not the aftermarket cheaper one. I initially got the latter to save some dough, but neither I nor Hans (in HB) were impressed, so I sent them back & paid the extra for the Lemforder kit. Again not in, but so many on here speak highly of it, that I'm looking forward to with them!

This website is often like asking 10 lawyers for their opinion & you get 100+ opinions, all usually with some validity given different circumstances & experiences!

Posted by: charliew Aug 13 2010, 04:21 PM

Spoke I'm sorry but that is a nice race car, not a sportscar.

I still think you need to build a shop with a floor that can take hot metal falling on it if you are going to repair the rust yourself. I guess you could roll it out in the driveway and do the hot stuff and roll it back in but thats a lot of up and down and rolling back and forth. Don't forget the door gap supports when you start cutting the bad stuff out. From your pictures you should poke the screwdriver all along the bottom of the long from the jack point toward the rear and also the outer rear arm support bottom. You can do it and be proud of it when you are through.

Posted by: SirAndy Aug 13 2010, 04:28 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Aug 12 2010, 05:33 PM)

Posted by: strawman Aug 13 2010, 04:45 PM

Hi Ed --

I'm in the latter end of a full body/chassis rustoration.

I would recommend carefully checking for rust and replace only what is necessary. From the pics you've provided, I don't believe you'll need to replace EVERYTHING in terms of inner/outer longs, firewall, suspension console, etc. as suggested by another poster -- just those items that show wear, tear and damage. And I would definitely scrape out that reisty foam added by the DAPO -- it will retain moisture and accelerate rust.

As you get deeper into the rustoration (if you so choose), you'll probably want to remove the factory foam in the upper-inner back corners of the rear quarters and under the upper-inner quarters just under the sail panels. It is a beeyotch to remove and you'll likely find at least surface rust under there, but it will forestall further rust damage if you remove the rust and repair the damage correctly.

I've also scraped out all of the seam sealant from my chassis, but I guess I'm just anal retentive and/or love punishment. I've replaced the factory seam sealant with 3M stuff, after removing what rust was underneath.

Geoff

Posted by: EdArango Aug 24 2010, 04:45 PM

So Emilio and I got the engine out.

Now what??

Posted by: Tom_T Aug 24 2010, 05:36 PM

Time for a cool one?

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:49 PM

It's been a while since I've posted...... So, needless to say I've currently enrolled in a welding class at the local community college. Take a look at these pics and give me your opinion.

Do you guys think this is salvageable???
Let me know!!

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:52 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:53 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:54 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:54 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:55 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 12:56 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 01:00 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 01:01 PM

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 01:02 PM

Posted by: Root_Werks Sep 9 2010, 02:06 PM

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 9 2010, 02:28 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Sep 9 2010, 11:49 AM)

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 02:30 PM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 9 2010, 01:28 PM)

QUOTE(EdArango @ Sep 9 2010, 11:49 AM)

Do you guys think this is salvageable???

Yes.


Did you brace the chassis before you started cutting out all that metal?
Andy

Posted by: EdArango Sep 9 2010, 02:33 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Sep 9 2010, 12:01 PM)

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 9 2010, 03:19 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Sep 9 2010, 01:33 PM)

Posted by: mepstein Sep 9 2010, 04:24 PM

I'm wondering if there isn't more problem metal in between the hell hole and the outer long. Have you looked inside the long or at the rear suspention console. It seems like this area is usually more about rebuilding the many layers of structural metal rather than just patching the holes you show in the pics.

* There are a lot of really great "rustoration" threads on this site. Take a couple days and search through 10-20 of them. It may give you a really good look into the future about what you're up against and how to fix it.

Posted by: Tom_T Sep 10 2010, 03:57 PM

Ed - most of those parts are available in panels from Restoration Design (RD that Andy said) - here are their 2 main 914 links to make it easier:

http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=914

http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=914-PAC



Where are you taking the ROP Welding at & what night?
... any openings still or too late?

I was looking at doing that this Fall too, but was out-of-town until 9/8 & didn't get a chance yet to see if the Orange/COC ROP offered it (no Fall schedule in Aug before I left), & the only other was North OC ROP.

Posted by: Zaney Sep 10 2010, 05:54 PM

Ed,
I too am in the later stages of a rustoration project and pretty much completed all the same areas that your pictures show.

I researched through http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791&st=20

and http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=7725

I had zero welding experience when I began and know consider myself OK. However, 90% of the welds are ground down and will never be seen by anyone. There are many professionals that will give good advice but, cleanliness of the metal is what I found to be the most important.

Good luck!
Nate

Posted by: FourBlades Sep 10 2010, 10:35 PM

That looks like a fairly solid car that can be relatively easily repaired.

I agree with the others, read all the rusto threads you can find. Knowing the
right things to do and right way to do them will save you literally months of
work.

Buying replacement pieces from Restoration Design or any of the others is
a big time saver over making your own.

John

Posted by: EdArango Nov 24 2010, 03:27 PM

It's been awhile since I've moved forward with my car. I found a great local guy that is doing the welding for me. If anybody needs a certified welder Gabe is the guy. Here are a few pics.

ED

Posted by: abayer1969 Nov 24 2010, 03:31 PM

Good job Ed dont give up on it. Now if I could only see what was being done

Posted by: EdArango Nov 24 2010, 03:56 PM

QUOTE(abayer1969 @ Nov 24 2010, 01:31 PM)

Good job Ed dont give up on it. Now if I could only see what was being done

Posted by: EdArango Jan 12 2011, 10:36 PM

Well, this last weekend things didn't go all that great for me. I sold my engine to Sean Molloy from San Diego. While he was at me house he gave my car a "once over" and said that I had bad rust issues with my longs in both directions. I cut out a opening in the hell hole area that allowed me to lower a camera. I took a few pics from inside the longitudinal in both directions towards the front of the car and back towards the suspension console.

Take a look and you guys let me know what you think if I can patch it up or has this become the hell hole from hell!

ED









Attached image(s)

Posted by: ONTHEGRIND Jan 12 2011, 11:28 PM

I am at the same place as you are

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jan 13 2011, 02:33 AM

I enjoyed hangin out in your garage. a beer would have been nice except for that pesky "towing a trailer back to san diego" thing.
this guy did what you are about to get into. enjoy the reading
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jan 13 2011, 02:40 AM

I thought I had done some rust repairs till I saw htese brave souls go deep and fearlessly into the oxide precipice
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=84350&st=40
im a rookie compared to these guys

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jan 13 2011, 02:42 AM

I am fixturing up a 914 tomorrow. I will post pics of the door braces monday or maybe sooner

Posted by: mepstein Jan 13 2011, 06:44 AM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Jan 12 2011, 11:36 PM)

Well, this last weekend things didn't go all that great for me. I sold my engine to Sean Molloy from San Diego. While he was at me house he gave my car a "once over" and said that I had bad rust issues with my longs in both directions. I cut out a opening in the hell hole area that allowed me to lower a camera. I took a few pics from inside the longitudinal in both directions towards the front of the car and back towards the suspension console.

Take a look and you guys let me know what you think if I can patch it up or has this become the hell hole from hell!

ED

Ed - If Sean said it's bad, it's probably is. Why not look for a 500 rust free roller rather that spending 5000+ on your car? Get someone like Sean,Craig at Camp914 or one of the many experienced members on this board to help you find one that doesn't need major rust repair. Good luck, Mark

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jan 13 2011, 08:24 AM

in your future I see...



Attached thumbnail(s)


Attached image(s)

Posted by: sean_v8_914 Jan 13 2011, 08:28 AM

if you look closely, this photo shows us why the jack point is a structural convergence and should not be deleted. it is at the flex fulcrum of the chassis where the longs terminate at teh B pillar. look how many layers "the onion" has in this location


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: EdArango Jan 13 2011, 09:21 AM

Thanks Sean - Thanks Mark,
I guess what I've got to do is find that clean roller. I should have listen to my friend , Joe Sharp when he told me move on to another car. I guess some times it just hard to let go of these great little cars.
So all work has stopped on this car until I find a decent roller.

Ed

Posted by: EdArango Jan 13 2011, 08:20 PM

QUOTE(ONTHEGRIND @ Jan 12 2011, 09:28 PM)

Posted by: ONTHEGRIND Jan 13 2011, 09:49 PM

I worked on it the last couple of days with no updates to my threat I will post pics when I get back from my fishing trip..

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=112933&hl=

Posted by: MrHyde Jan 13 2011, 09:55 PM

IMHO... from those pics I'd say fix the car you have.. pop off the rockers and clean out the rust on the longitudinals and weld on new rockers... It doesn't look like much more than surface rust inside the rockers...
As said earlier, Restoration Design has all those parts for the hell hole repair, and it would most likely be cheaper than a whole new car for what you need.. And once you're done it will have NEW metal, not just "less rusty" metal.. All steel will return to the ground (rust) eventually. All you can do is delay it long enough to enjoy the car.

Posted by: ONTHEGRIND Jan 13 2011, 10:06 PM

I agree with Mr. Hyde It is pretty fun hacking the car and welding after all it is winter knd of work you are supposed to be doing and the Historics are not until august .. lol

Posted by: rjames Jan 13 2011, 10:29 PM

QUOTE(MrHyde @ Jan 13 2011, 07:55 PM)

Posted by: roadster fan Jan 14 2011, 12:17 PM

I have looked at alot of used 914 chassis, and I would bet that 90% of the chassis for sale look exactly like yours inside of the longs. The sides of the longs inside looks like surface rust (ever look inside your center tunnel? most have some there too) and the bottom area may have heavier rust from the dreaded battery acid decay from the hell hole. Any area where the metal has been compromised by the battery acid, replace it.

Want to get a perspective on the longs? cut a small hole and put your camera in the passenger side, where the battery acid problem doesn't exist. Bet you find rust there too. If you put a camera in the long of most of the concourse winning cars there is gonna be rust in there too. Fact of life with these cars IMHO.

This chassis obviously has some rust issues that look overwhelming right now. If you have the time and desire you can fix it, but if you have the $$ for a better chassis go for it. I would fix it, but part of the attraction of these old cars for me is working on them. Please don't cut this car up for parts or scrap it, I will come get it, put in the corner of the shop and fix it when I am done with my tub.

Good luck with your car whatever you decide,

Jim

Posted by: bembry Feb 3 2011, 08:24 PM

Ed--what's your final plan for the car, other than the 2056?

I keep seeing pieces of it coming up for sale!

Posted by: socalstuttgart Feb 7 2011, 10:17 AM

Hang in there Ed. There is a big light at the end of the tunnel when you get the welding done! I'll try to make El Toro btw.

Posted by: EdArango Feb 7 2011, 09:04 PM

QUOTE(bembry @ Feb 3 2011, 06:24 PM)

Ed--what's your final plan for the car, other than the 2056?

I keep seeing pieces of it coming up for sale!

Posted by: EdArango Feb 7 2011, 09:09 PM

QUOTE(socalstuttgart @ Feb 7 2011, 08:17 AM)

Posted by: mepstein Feb 8 2011, 07:15 AM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/590410-84-3-2-carrera-motor-sale.html



Attached image(s)

Posted by: ScottD914 Feb 8 2011, 09:12 AM

Looking good Ed! And all too familiar. I'm 3 years into mine and hoping to be on the road this summer. Next time I'll find a no rust/ low rust roller!



Note the PO's attempts at saving this one!
Had to: and
But all good now. Best of luck. SD

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Feb 8 2011, 10:03 AM

The inside-the-longs pictures you posted looked pretty good to me. Surface rust only. Shop vac out the flakes, and spray them down good with Metal Ready or coat with Naval Jelly. Weld everything closed again and you should be good.

I would be willing to bet that MOST (maybe 80% or more of the 914s on the road) have rust in the longs exactly like yours or worse. The only way to really get it is by cutting and welding (overkill) or dipping the car (which can lead to other issues).

Zach

Posted by: EdArango Feb 8 2011, 08:01 PM

Here are a few pics of the inside of my longs i was able to take by putting a little camera into the hell hole. I used an internal frame coating spray sold by (http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html) which really does a good job. Check out my before and after pics!.

Ed


This is the hole I cut out to repair. I took picture from within this hole.

Posted by: silver74insocal Feb 8 2011, 08:05 PM

awesome!! care to elaborate on the application of said product?

Posted by: silver74insocal Feb 8 2011, 08:08 PM

nvrmd just used your linky.

Posted by: EdArango Mar 22 2011, 12:54 PM

I've been slow in the progress but here are a few of the latest pics of my project.



I'm gong to begin working on installing the stiffening kit this weekend so I've begun to remove the undercoating, paint, primer, goop, dirt, etc... This is a dirty, messy job. Although flares won't be installed for a bit I measured and cut out the opening in order to make it easier to work.



New jack post.



Clean up the front side of the long.



New floorboards are in along with the Engman kit.

Stay tuned for more.
ED

Posted by: Tom_T Mar 22 2011, 01:16 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Mar 22 2011, 11:54 AM)

Posted by: EdArango Mar 22 2011, 02:43 PM

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Mar 22 2011, 12:16 PM)

QUOTE(EdArango @ Mar 22 2011, 11:54 AM)

Hey Ed, several people on here have had problems with those ratchet-type jackstands letting go & dropping the car on them - someone on here broke their nose!

Also those 4x4s can get bumped easily & it rolls off the stands, not to mention they block part of the underbody you're working on & welding, since they're in the way & flammable!

For your own safety, I'd strongly suggest that you go online & Google for a good price on hi-lift screw or pin-style jackstands, then get the best priced ones for the height you want (their weight capacity will well exceed even a complete 914-6). They go up to 3' & some higher from what I've seen online.

We don't want to see you looking like a flat-faced Pug dog!
.... & it will also be easier to work without the 4x4's on there.

Camping World also sells a set of 4 screw-type trailer-stabilizer 6000# (3 ton each) jackstands which go 11" - 17" ht. for about $40 for the set of 4, but I don't know if these will work with the 914s -
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/aluminum-stack-jacks-set-of-4/4205

Posted by: silver74insocal Mar 22 2011, 03:00 PM

wow Ed that's some dam fine work! hope to see this girl on the road soon! i was wondering what prompted you to do the stiffening kit? are you gonna do a 6?
DAve

Posted by: EdArango Mar 22 2011, 03:41 PM

QUOTE(silver74insocal @ Mar 22 2011, 02:00 PM)

Posted by: silver74insocal Mar 22 2011, 03:49 PM

QUOTE(EdArango @ Mar 22 2011, 02:41 PM)

QUOTE(silver74insocal @ Mar 22 2011, 02:00 PM)

wow Ed that's some dam fine work! hope to see this girl on the road soon! i was wondering what prompted you to do the stiffening kit? are you gonna do a 6?
DAve

Hey Dave! That's my goal.....go big or go home!
I'm planning on at least a 3.0 or bigger. I figured that Dean's car "Zombie" needs a little brother.....