I have been going thru several of the threads regarding Subaru engine conversions to learn about the different ways people are performing the installation. From radiators to CV adaptors, there are several paths to take. Lets try to compile all that information into one thread. Anyone can contribute and I will take the information in the thread and update the top few posts with the details.
Here is a list of 914 Subaru related Threads:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113579&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=84842
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=31579&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=83031
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=94994
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=58431
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=85845
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105407
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=85005
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102573
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=110974
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109434
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102887
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=78501&st=0
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=92942&st=0
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=110974&hl=eg33+subaru
Cooling System
- Radiators
I have seen conversions with the following:
Griffin Radiators
1988 VW Jetta GL
VW Sirocco's
Honda Radiators
Not sure of the minumim size radiator you can get away with.
- Radiator Mounting/Shrouds/Fans
Here are a couple of radiator mounting pictures (with and without shrouds)
TonyAKAVW
DPCooper
HeaterGuy
Another
- Plumbing
http://www.rjes.com/html/material_choice.html
Good Thread on Hose Specs
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=110924
Engine Mounting
- Stock Subaru Mount Points
There are some very creative and effective mounting solutions out there. Here are a couple I have seen.
TonyAKAVW - U-shaped mount bar.
DBCooper - Modified Renegade Engine Cradle.
- Aftermarket Mounts
Outfront Motorsports makes a mount which bolts to the bottom of the motor.
HeaterGuy:
Small Car Performance also make a similar mount (might be the same as the Outfront mount, not sure). http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29789
This is from Amenson's thread.
He modified it to fit to the stock 4cylinder engine bar.
Transmission Options
There are several different approaches to the transmission/CV options. Here are a couple of threads with further details:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=40733&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102887
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109003
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109522
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=108808
- Adaptors/Flywheels/Clutch
For mating with a 901 transmission, there are three options that I am aware off.
1. Kennedy Engineering (http://www.kennedyeng.com/vw_por.htm)
Package consists of an adaptor plate, flywheel, and pilot bearing.
- 215mm flywheel package for $540 (Clutch Package $431)
- 9" flywheel package for $540 (Clutch Package $354)
(Clutch Package includes Pressure Plate/Disc/Throw-out Bearing)
- Flywheel weighs 19lbs.
2. OutFront Motorsports (http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/clutch_flywheel.htm)
Offer a monolithic flywheel (i.e. 1 peice) in both 8" and 9" diameters with adaptor kit for $480
Also have a 2-peice welded flywheel for $440
Multiple clutch packages ranging from $110 to $250 with a 6-puck disc for $80.
Also mention a dual clutch disc set-up for a light pedal.
Flywheel weights between 15lb and 16lbs
3. Renegage Hybrids (http://www.renegadehybrids.com/)
Don't really break down the adaptor plate seperatly on their website.
Includes Billet Adapter Plate, Custom 9" Flywheel, Kevlar 9" Clutch Disc, Stage Two 9" Pressure Plate
Some random images of adaptor plates, I don't know which manufactures.
- CV Joints/Output Shafts
There are replacement output shafts for the Subaru transmission to 914 CV joint.
There are the option to machine a set of 911 axles to mate up to the stock Subaru CV joints as shown by BIGKAT_83.
"The axles are 911. These are a large enough diameter to be machined on the transaxle side for a Subaru CV joint spline. This gives me a 911 large CV joint on the wheel end and the Subaru joint on the transaxle side. "
- Shifters/Shift Linkage
Intake System
Couple of places to get tubing:
http://www.stainlessworks.net
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/mandrel-bends-34/6061-aluminum-16-gauge-54/
- Turbocharger Plumbing
- Intercooler Options
I have seen everything from stock Subaru intercoolers, air-to-air set-ups, and air-water set-ups.
DBCooper Air-Air
DBCooper Air-Water
Anklebiters Stock Set-up.
HeaterGuy Air-Air
Amenson Air-Air
Cool Air-Water inside the cabin.
- Flipped Intake Manifolds
Exhaust System
- Headers
- Mufflers
Electronics
- Stock ECU
- Aftermarket ECU
- Interfacing with the car
Oil System
- Different Sump Pans
Outfront sells a shorten oil pan for $270 which included a shortened pickup tube. They also list a mid-engine pan for $370, but I am not sure what the difference is.
Here is a nicely modified pan from TonyAWAVW with side kick-outs.
Bugat5Speed (http://www.bugat5speed.de/en/) offers a cast aluminum sump.
Details:
Some Product Details:
-Works with EJ 2.0, 2.2 and 2.5 blocks
-The sump is sandcasted like all our other parts.
-The capacity of oil is 4,25 litres (that´s only 0,25 less than original). If you shorten an original sump you loose about a 1 litre.
-It is very stabile (you can put a hydraulic lifter under it and lift the car), so nothing happens if the car is low and the sump hits the floor). If you have the original sump, that´s virtually impossible.
-The cooling properties are much better than with the original one. Water temperature is reduced by about 10 degrees Celsius, if you switch from original to the bug@5Speed sump.
-The pick-up tube inside the sump must be modified (shortened). But that´s no big deal. Anyone who does such a project will easily handle this task.
-The original dipstick can be used, but must be shortened a little.
- Overall dimmentsions are 275 x 320 x 120 mm (length, width, height).
*** One key point, these sumps will interfere with the stock motor mounts, if your using the RJES conversion. Will require modifications of mounts.
Small Car Performance also sells a cast aluminum pan. http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29943
Features
* Thickwall alloy aluminum for handling the worst conditions
* Stock Subaru oil capacity (4.3 liters) or 5.5 quarts when filled to the later Subaru level
* Shaped bottom for superior oil scavenging
* Finned exterior for heat dissipation
* Heliarc welded screened oil pickup
* Stainless bolts with aluminum washers
* Comes with o-rings for the oil pickup and for the stock or our flexible dipstick
* 4 5/16" total height saves over 2 inches when compared to the stock Subaru oil pan
- Dry Sump Set-up
Not sure if it is needed, but some have converted to dry sump set-up. The expense of this set-up can exceed $3K and is very complicated.
Fuel System
- Stock Tank
- Aftermarket Tank
- Fuel Pump
- Supply/Return Lines
Other/Misc.
- Parts that you will need but are not discussed
I will start going back and editing my posts with information that I have gathered so far. Feel free to contribute to make this a comprehensive list.
-Britain
Coming along nicely! Think you can include links to where you found the pics/conversations?
I would like someone to come out with a how to make the shifter assy.
CharlieW,
That is an interesting pan, I will add the details in that section.
-Britain
Lots of updates today. Enjoy.
-Britain
Anyone have some new stuff to add.
-Britain
Very interesting motor mount you added. Uses the stock bar/mounts? Im curious how the owner of that car likes that as with that power you would think you might need some better mounts.
Pretty good summary. I've been looking for a picture of the Rennedage mount. Looks like it uses the stock mounting points for the engine and trans.
Here's what our smallcar engine mount looks like after fabbing it up for 914 use.
There isn't much progress lately on our project, but here's our thread link:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=92942
Thanks for the pic.
The one difference I see between the Small Car mount and the Outfront Mount is that the Outfront mount actually bolts to there adaptor plate.
-Britain
Not a whole lot to contribute here, but I wanted to thank you for getting all this info together Britain!
One thing to check is the clubNARP forum for Subies: http://z8.invisionfree.com/ClubNARP/index.php?showforum=20
Thanks again, this is very useful!
I'd like a link or someone who knows the subaru drivetrains to give a breakdown on the motors. Basically the HP in stock form & the benefits of each motor. REally considering a subaru swap at some point. Would like to keep an eye out for a good setup. I will hit up some different subaru forums. Figured this might be the place to have the breakdown for the motors though
Britain thanks for the work. Nice to see all of this in one location
intersting site for older JDM motors
http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html
Tranny specs
http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/trans.html
speed calc
http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/tyres.html
I didnt check the early pages.. sorry if duplicate
from Vin plates
http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/engine.html
and my build thread..
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=99947&hl=epic
front mount turbo, engine cradle by BOB.... suby tranny, soon to be cable shift..
Been a long haul but moving again,
What is everyone using for electronics??
How do they interface with the 914??
This is a late reply, but I thought I'd chime in.
I'm coming to the party as a Subaru guy with an extra EJ25 engine sitting in my garage, looking for a chassis.
Since you're in Oregon, you have a lot of great Subaru resources close to home. When you're ready to have the engine talk, I'd suggest Cobb Tuning Surgeline up in Tigard.
A stock EJ25 engine is good for just under 300 whp (AWD) and ~325 wtq with a medium-sized turbo and a good intercooler and exhaust setup. Running it 2WD drops the driveline loss from 24% to ~15%, so more like 325 whp. Tuning with E85 can also help, both in terms of torque and turbo spool.
A mildly built engine with forged pistons can put out 300-400 whp in an AWD Subie. It all depends on how big of a turbo you want to run and how much lag you can stand. Again, if you have the fuel pump and injectors to flow enough fuel, E85 can really be a great fuel for these engines, better than race gas.
For example, in my daily driver Legacy GT, with a tune for 92 octane pump I can get 290 whp with 310 wtq at 18 psi boost. With E85, the tuner can tune it for 21 psi boost, 310 whp and 350 ftlbs. The torque curve also shifts about 700 RPM to the left with E85, due to quicker spool.
I'm not sure what else it affects in a 914 build, but the Cobb AccessPort is the go-to ECU programmer for the Subaru folks. If you're keeping the Subaru ECU connected to the engine, the AP might be the way to go. I'm not sure what needs to be deactivated in the Subaru ECU to allow it to run just the engine (probably a lot) but it might be easier than building a tune from the ground up with an aftermarket ECU.
Hey Duke...here is my Subaru conversion thread. I have a dyno date in 2weeks at Cobb Surgeline.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=113579
Has anyone done heat with a suby swap?
(bloody hell those smilies to the left are distracting)
Here's some quick info regarding suby transmissions and clutch assemblies.
There are two main types of suby clutches - "push" and "pull". Relative to the stock configuration, a "push" clutch has the slave cylinder mounted on the engine side of the clutch fork and actuates toward the driveshaft end. The "pull" clutch has the slave cylinder mounted near the center of the transmission and actuates toward the engine. The type of clutch actuation is dictated by the combination of the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch actuation fork, and the slave cylinder. All of these items must be matched in terms of fork actuation direction. A transmission can be converted from pull to push by flipping the pull slave cylinder and using a kit - some bellhousings may have bolt holes for using either type, but I don't believe this to be the case. Note that cable-actuated clutches actuate in the "push" direction.
So here's a quick cheat sheet for transmissions and clutch actuation direction. From the factory on cars sold in the USA,
1.8, 2.2L engines came with cable-actuated clutches (Impreza -'01, Legacy -99?)
2.5L non-turbo engines came with push-style hydraulic clutches (Legacy 96+, Impreza 98+, Forester all years)
2.0L turbo engines came with pull-style clutches (02-05)
2.5L turbo engines in the WRX came with push-style clutches (06-09)
2.5L turbo engines in the STi came with pull-style clutches (04+)
You cannot mix and match flywheels with clutches across these (e.g. no WRX clutch on an N/A flywheel, no push WRX clutch with a pull WRX flywheel, etc). You also cannot use an STi fw/clutch/pp in a non-STi bellhousing without some grinding, and you still must use a pull-style clutch fork actuation. Why does this matter? Two reason: power and packaging.
Due to the proliferation of WRXes and the relative scarcity of high-power N/A cars, there are basically no cheap or livable options for N/A clutches that will handle real power. If you're not going to be making more than realistic power for a 2.5L N/A (say, about 200 lb-ft), you can use any clutch combination you want. If you are going make more power, you can either shell out BIG bucks ($800+) for an N/A clutch/fw/pp kit, or you can find a way to make a WRX or STi clutch work.
So why not just grab a WRX clutch/fw/pp and stick it on any old gearbox? The gearbox might not have the bosses required to mount a pull-style slave cylinder. Why not just use a WRX transmission? The pull-style clutch actuation mechanism is physically large, and it's on the top of the transmission, right where the 914 has lots of metal. The push clutch cylinder is smaller, lives closer to the engine where there's space, and can be more easily made to fit inside the 914 transmission tunnel without cutting. The solution, then, is simple - you need a WRX clutch with a push-style clutch actuator. Luckily, that's what Subaru moved to with the WRX in '06+. You can use a stock N/A slave cylinder and clutch fork with an 06+ WRX flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing!
This matters because WRX boxes are expensive (easily twice the cost of an N/A box of the same year), rarer since the N/A transmissions have been around since the early '90s, and basically identical in terms of capability when used in a 914. 06+ WRX flywheels aren't terribly cheap yet, but prices are coming down all the time. '06+ transmissions, however, are still really expensive.
What this means is that, when you're doing shopping, you must consider the transmission, that transmission's clutch actuation direction, and then what flywheel/clutch/pp combos match that direction. You can work backwards or forwards, but they must necessarily follow in that direction unless you want a headache.
Thanks for the link, Britain. I've been looking for the thread on your project. I've seen your 914 at the ORPCA AX events and heard about the project at Surgeline when I had my Legacy in for tuning. I'm very curious to see it hit the road.
Jay
Something that may be useful for guys considering a suby transmission or have a conversion already...
I was trying to resolve an issue with my suby trans where I could hear a bearing noise coming from the tail near 5th gear. I started talking with Bremar about how to determine the correct oil level after doing the 2wd conversion. They said not to rely on the dipstick for oil level. They have seen problems where the suby trans gets used in a mid-engine setup and is mounted at a slightly different angle than in the original suby. The result can be a dry 5th gear which they have had to replace along with bearings. The solution is to tap a plug in the case in the tail section high enough to bath the gearset at the tail. When filling with oil, open the plug and fill until oil comes out the plug hole.
I did what they suggested in my suby trans, tapped a plug about 2-3 inches up from the bottom near 5th gear. I ended up with about 7 qts of oil which is almost double the suby specification. Doing this resolved the bearing noise which I now know was due to not enough oil in the trans.
I live over on the East side suburbs, but I work in Wilsonville. I'd love to check out the SBII some time. I'm starting to hunt Craigslist for 914 rollers...
The down side of the six speeds besides cost ,,, they are considerably longer,,, I heard there is a shorter version coming or here now and that the gearing is considerably shorter..lots of shifting or jumping of gears. I could possibly see shortening 4th possibly for a track car.. good pop coming out of corners but on the street the 6 speed might be more annoying than just dropping in an after market lsd 5 speed..
doppelpost
.
some wiring tricks.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=199291
I recall someone somewhere ( ClubNARP most likely ) someone used an Impreza fuel pump on their conversion and it looked very good on the 914 tank. IIRC they also said the pickup and float were just about prefectly spaced in the teeners tank.
What I need to know, is if the flow rate on the Impreza pump is the same as on the SVX pump, and if not, does anyone know if the SVX pump will fit on the Impreza assy. ?
It's pretty cool how a forum that no-one visits like NARP has a forum just for Sooby guys isn't it
Here you go.works like a champ. The fuel pressure is set by the regulator on the fuel rail of the SVX.
Bob
awesome. Thanks Bob. I've been looking at SVX fuel pumps and senders, and they just don't lend themselves to a good adaptation, as they screwed onto a plastic tank. The Impreza one does since it bolts down
Yeah and that plastic screw-top is a PITA to get off...
Bob, didn't you use the Impreza top with the SVX pump?
No I just ran it the way I got it out of the Impreza. Didnt even change the pump.
All I needed to do was cut a hole in the tank for it. The pump goes right into the stock tank sump. I used rivet nuts to bolt the plate in.
Bob
Ahhhhhh.... I misunderstood you. That's normal for me though. I thought your setup looked weird compared to mine. I guess I sell the SVX pump then! Thanks again for the guidance.
notes to self ...
how to convert trans from awd to 2wd
http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/static/attach/1/3801/Subaru_5sp_transaxle_conversion.pdf
hydraulic clutch info
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=207715&hl=
suby transaxle video
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cable-trans-hydraulic-trans-swap-199166.html?amp;
chris h - eg33 - sub trans hydraulic clutch
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=200844&hl=subaru
76-914 - eg33 - sub trans hydraulic clutch
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=201776&hl=subaru
jpnovak - ej20 - sub trans hydraulic clutch
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=99619&hl=subaru
britain - ej257 turbo - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113579&hl=subaru
my928s4 - ej205 turbo - - sub trans hydraulic clutch
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113579&hl=subaru
strawman - ej22t - sub trans hydraulic clutch
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=83031&hl=subaru
plymouth37 - 4 cyl turbo - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=84842
tony - ej25 - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=31579&hl=
zaney - 4 cyl - sub trans hydraulic clutch
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=94994
amenson - sti 4 cyl turbu - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=58431
malaga red75 - 4 cyl - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=85845
budman5201 - ez30r - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105407
twinturbo914 - ez30r
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=85005
felonyracing - eg33 - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102573
bigkat 83 - eg33 - sub trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=110974
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=110974&hl=eg33+subaru
precisionchassis - 4 cyl turbu - boxster trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109434
dbcooper - sti turbo - wrx trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102887
vox - 4 cyl - 914 trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=92942&st=0
effutuo - 4 cyl - sub trans
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=173219&hl=
Can we update some of the data in this thread? There are a lot of new projects in the works, and many have found better ways to do some of the things outlined here.
...just sayin'.
great info!!!!!!
Thank you
Hmmmmmm, mine is an EZ30D, not the EG33.
Initially I thought I would go the EG route but the length and improvements on the EZ model turned me. BIGKAT83 started w/ a 3.3 then went w/ a 3.0. BTW, the EZ's are only 1.5" longer than the 4's.
I saw this on 818 forums. Its very expensive $350+, but it is pretty sweet looking. Its being used for WRX trans I assume it would work for us in a 914. Planned on adding a photo but i cant?? its called a K Tuned No Cut K Swap Shifter Box K20 K24 Swap EF EG EK DC2 for a honda and the photo is on thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13606-RoRi-s-818S-Build-Thread
well I'm still lurking and watching all the new ideas and thought I would get this back to the top for updates guys. I got sidetracked for awhile with pacemakers. I wish pacemaker tuners were as good as opensource or megasquirt or stinger guys but they aren't and only will get better as the users get more educated. I still want my 914 to roll with all my goodies completed one day. My son has decided he wants a new awd project so I may be on my own with the subie 4 cyl stuff. His sti was dynowed a couple of years ago at about 490 awd hp on e85 on a 98* day in dallas after a 90 mile drive. I have lots of time in his setup on fabbing but he is the tuner mechanic and he has decided he is tired of working on a street hotrod. It is hard to get to almost anything on that awd gocart. I wanted to buy it and just put it in the shop for him when he is my age (71) but he is 34 and doesn't see the greatness of that idea. Oh how I wish I had my first hotrod still. Sorry for the rant, This is a great resource that needs updates or at least new thread links.
Where the Hell have you been, Charlie? Good to see you back in the stable and looking forward to your posts. How have to locals accepted the SS presence? I used to deliver "take out dinners" to those boy's when they watched over LBJ's daughter in Austin. IIRC, they had absolutely no sense of humor.
I forget to ask my friends who go to the same church but the ss must blend in well. Also the anoited ones might be up north consoling the younger one with their dad.
Any info on putting the radiator in the engine compartment?
Go to the Restoration & Build Threads Forums section. A lot of us have detailed it in our build threads.
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