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Posted by: turbo2 Sep 10 2010, 02:25 PM

Folks,

Anyone out there who has access to a paper on how to check the valve train geometry and cut the push rods to size. remember seeing on on the i net somewhere but can't recall where.

Also seem to recall that heard somethere that the rocker arms has to be modified when fitting 911 adjusting screws but can't recall details so would also much appreciate input on this.

Thanks in adv.

Posted by: 904svo Sep 10 2010, 02:50 PM

Check here.

http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=25

Posted by: Van Sep 10 2010, 03:04 PM

And check here: http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/page24.html

Posted by: jeffdon Sep 10 2010, 03:47 PM

Van's site is great. It was a good dose of inspiration when i was building my engine!

THANKS!

Posted by: Cevan Sep 10 2010, 04:52 PM

Jake's article is what I used. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=106551&hl= is my valvetrain geometry thread.

Posted by: orange914 Sep 10 2010, 11:07 PM

definately do the 911 rockers, you won't be sorry

mike

Posted by: Borderline Sep 11 2010, 10:26 AM

If you want to save some $$, you can go with these swivel feet: http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=115
I just saw a set that came out of a 2.7L 8K RPM T4 motor and they look great!!

Yeah I know Jake says to use the expensive 911 adjusters.

Posted by: turbo2 Sep 11 2010, 02:26 PM

Thanks folks links provided explains the matter, seems like will have to cut off a fairbit as when trying with the stock pushrods the valves lifts when i torq up the rocker arm shaft ith the adjuster screws all the way out.

Posted by: turbo2 Sep 11 2010, 02:26 PM

Thanks folks links provided explains the matter, seems like will have to cut off a fairbit as when trying with the stock pushrods the valves lifts when i torq up the rocker arm shaft ith the adjuster screws all the way out.

Posted by: Jake Raby Sep 11 2010, 08:45 PM

I lost a 10k buck engine because of a crappy imitation swivel foot adjuster..
The genuine Porsche adjusters are the ONLY way to go!
Just today I finished the "rebuild" of the engine I built originally in 2002 for my 912E.. I put 160K on that engine in 8 years and the 911 valve adjusters weren't even worn. I reused them! Something that provides excellent service over that amount of time isn't expensive, it's actually valuable.

Spend it now or spend more later, either way it's gonna be spent.

Posted by: turbo2 Sep 25 2010, 04:07 AM

Folks,

After having done my measurements and cut the first push rod to size, how the h... do I get the tip into the push rod.

As thought this was just a question of a well directed blow with a brass hammer (which it is not), also went across to the neighbor to use his press but worried that the tip will not go in straight so decided to sleep on it.

Plan B is to put the tips in the freezer and heat up the push rod but how much heat can I apply (cherry red ok or sizzling when I spit on it).

Looking fwd to input.

Posted by: Jake Raby Sep 25 2010, 05:41 AM

If you read my article I cover tip installation... No heating or cooling necessary.

Posted by: Don M Sep 25 2010, 08:15 AM

one method is to use a 2 x4 x 6" long rectangular aluminum block drilled perpendicular about 1.5" deep on the 2" face to pushrod diameter + .010-.015" OS... and a 1.25" round x 6" long aluminum bar (or whatever fits hand grip) drilled about 2" depth, in a lathe to maintain alignment, again + .010-.015" over pushrod diameter. this set of tools assures alignment of tips to center line of pushrod when driven in and the softer aluminum guides will not damage either tip or shaft materials.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 25 2010, 08:54 AM