Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: avidfanjpl Sep 22 2010, 12:15 PM

Anyone know of a thread (I have NOT checked Pelican) to show in pics and words how to remove and install new balljoints in a 914?

I have been here almost 18 months, and do not remember one.

But I bet there is one. I get too many hits on a balljoint search.

Don't have days to look for it.

Thanks!

John

Posted by: Cupomeat Sep 22 2010, 12:32 PM

Well, here it is in a nutshell and you need a special castellated socket for the lower nut.

1. Lift the offending corner and secure it on jack stands, remove the wheel.
2. on the bottom of the A arm, remove the pin and keeper.
3. Use the special castellated socket to loosen the round castellated nut. Do not remove it yet. This can be difficult.
4. Loosen the nut on the bolt or pin (depending on the year) on the strut housing that holds the balljoint shaft to the spindle.
5. Gently drive out the bolt or Pin (keep the nut on the pin/bolt to protect the threads
6. Attempt to separate the ball joint shaft from the spindle (strut housing), but usually, I have to find a small chisel to spread the channel to get it out.
7. Once you have the ball joint shaft out of the spindle, remove the bottom ball joint castellated nut and remove the ball joint.

NOTE: The balljoint has a detent on the outer circumference to make sure it is aligned properly in the A-Arm, so make sure it fits nicely in the A-Arm, don't force it. It also has a cut out on the shaft for the bolt/pin in the spindle, so watch for it when orienting the assembly.

To assemble,
1. Slide the new ball joint into the A-Arm (correct orientation) and up into the spindle.
2. put on the castellated nut on the bottom and snug it up.
3. Replace the pin, or reuse the bolt on the spindle and make note of the shaft cut out where the pin/bolt goes on the ball joint shaft and turn it properly to align when fitting the pin/bolt in.
4. Tighten the pin/bolt to torque spec
5. Tighten the castellated nut to torque spec AFTER taking a good look to make sure it is seated properly. Otherwise you can bend your mounting area on the a-arm
6. Install the keeper and a new cotter pin on the bottom.
7. Move the spindle back and forth to make sure it is not binding, etc, and reinstall the wheel.
8. Take the car off jackstands before they start adhering themselves to the car.

There, I think I have everything, but no doubt others will chime in.

I hope that helps.

Posted by: 914 shifter Sep 23 2010, 02:24 PM

my 70 1.7 castle nut/threads were so corroded i had to carefully burn the old ball joint out. NE car

Posted by: kenshapiro2002 Sep 23 2010, 06:31 PM

Also, that special castellated nut tool to remove the ball joint ? It's really meant for installing not removing. Almost no way to keep it tight enough (upside down) against that nut to be effective as it takes gargantuan strength to remove. I was only successful (thanks to advice on here) using a big fucking pipe wrench (14") penetrating spray, and an electric heat gun. I used the "special" tool to install the new (should replace those things) nuts. Also, don't buy the expensive Porsche tool...get a matching socket from a FLAP store...there's one used on Ford 4 wheel drive axle nuts that fits almost perfectly, certainly close enough to work.

Posted by: smontanaro Sep 23 2010, 07:51 PM

Quick tip on searching... Don't waste your time with the search facility here. Instead, use Google, restricting your search to 914world.com, e.g.:

Posted by: qa1142 Sep 23 2010, 07:53 PM

QUOTE(smontanaro @ Sep 23 2010, 05:51 PM)

Posted by: kphimself Sep 23 2010, 08:23 PM

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Sep 23 2010, 08:31 PM)