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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Rear Window Install
Posted by: Cambo Sep 28 2010, 02:53 PM
Removed rear window to re-seal it. Have the window out now. Couple questions.
Butyl tape is out but it left bullet proof gunk behind on the bottom and sides. Top came out with nothing left behind. What's the best way to remove the gunk without scraping off the paint?
Also have lots of gunk on the window. Best way to clean it without scratching it?
Lastly, looks like the engine lid-to-window seal could use replacing. Can that be done with the window in place? Don't want to have the car sit while waiting for a new seal, it's going wine tasting on Friday...
Thanks.
Oh, 5/16 butyl tape right?
Posted by: Tom_T Sep 28 2010, 03:00 PM
Mineral Spirits to remove the butyl on glass, maybe okay if careful on paint, but test it first to see if it lifts/bubbles any paint, & then remove it & wipe off with "low-test" isoprpyl rubbing alcohol to remove residue. Otherwise heat gun & careful scraping with a plastic bladed scraper on the paint, but still be careful.
Engine to rear window seal is easiest with window out, but wine tasting could be done with temp plastic in there to keep engine bay fumes & heat out (heavy duty thick drop cloth stuff). 
IIRC it's 5/16, but someone else can confirm, in case my half-zymers has kicked in! 
PS - make sure you hold onto the little rubber spacer blocks that sometimes get caught in the old butyl (see 914 PET parts diagram for p/n & look/placement, & shop manual or Haynes for reinstall placement).
Posted by: Drums66 Sep 28 2010, 03:08 PM
Mineral Spirits to remove the butyl on glass, maybe okay if careful on paint, but test it first to see if it lifts/bubbles any paint, & then remove it & wipe off with "low-test" isoprpyl rubbing alcohol to remove residue. Otherwise heat gun & careful scraping with a plastic bladed scraper on the paint, but still be careful.
Engine to rear window seal is easiest with window out, but wine tasting could be done with temp plastic in there to keep engine bay fumes & heat out (heavy duty thick drop cloth stuff).
IIRC it's 5/16, but someone else can confirm, in case my half-zymers has kicked in!
PS - make sure you hold onto the little rubber spacer blocks that sometimes get caught in the old butyl (see 914 PET parts diagram for p/n & look/placement, & shop manual or Haynes for reinstall placement).
i AGREE WIT tOM t..........but.......only cork wine no bottle caps!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Cambo Sep 28 2010, 03:19 PM
Mineral Spirits to remove the butyl on glass, maybe okay if careful on paint, but test it first to see if it lifts/bubbles any paint, & then remove it & wipe off with "low-test" isoprpyl rubbing alcohol to remove residue. Otherwise heat gun & careful scraping with a plastic bladed scraper on the paint, but still be careful.
Engine to rear window seal is easiest with window out, but wine tasting could be done with temp plastic in there to keep engine bay fumes & heat out (heavy duty thick drop cloth stuff).
IIRC it's 5/16, but someone else can confirm, in case my half-zymers has kicked in!
PS - make sure you hold onto the little rubber spacer blocks that sometimes get caught in the old butyl (see 914 PET parts diagram for p/n & look/placement, & shop manual or Haynes for reinstall placement).
i AGREE WIT tOM t..........but.......only cork wine no bottle caps!!!!!!!!!
Where's the cork on a cardboard box of Franzia????
Posted by: Jeffs9146 Sep 28 2010, 03:26 PM
I like to put a small bead of black calking just above where the butyl tape is on the bottom of the glass to fill the air gap and keep the water from getting behind the rubber seal and causing rust! This is something I have done on at least 3 of my cars!
You can see the air gap in this photo that I borowed from an old thread!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=15821&hl=
Attached image(s)
Posted by: Eric_Shea Sep 28 2010, 03:42 PM
That's what this seal is for...
Posted by: ConeDodger Sep 28 2010, 04:47 PM
I just removed the hardened butyl from my windshield flange.
Nothing was going to take this out scraping. I tried several other methods and rubs including mineral spirits. My windshield was out for the first time in 35 years when Scott Yeaman took it out. It still had the VW emissions sticker required in California in place.
I took my Dremel with an abrasive wheel and ripped and gouged it out. Of course this left a bare metal channel that had to be repainted. I had a rattle can of Diamond Silver Metallic made up at my local paint supply a year or so back and after careful masking I primed and painted it. Here is the result and a picture of the abrasive buff. About an inch in diameter. It took 9 of these abrasive buffs to do the windshield flange.
5/16" is the proper size as well. I just confirmed this by text message with McMark yesterday.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: Jeffs9146 Sep 28 2010, 04:51 PM
That seal doesn't keep water from leaking down the corners and sitting on top of the butyl. That is where 90% of the rear window leaks are found!
I place a bead of black calk just below that seal and run it from corner to corner where your green line is. Then you don't need the electrical tape to block the view of your painted surface!
Posted by: McMark Sep 28 2010, 04:54 PM
Don't forget the strip of electrical tape that goes along the bottom of the windshield to hide that band of yellow. Yes, it's the way the factory did it.
Posted by: Cambo Sep 28 2010, 05:13 PM
Don't forget the strip of electrical tape that goes along the bottom of the windshield to hide that band of yellow. Yes, it's the way the factory did it.
I know...kinda funny that the factory used electrical tape. Or should we call it "trim on a roll"?
Thanks for all the advice guys...
Posted by: Krieger Sep 28 2010, 07:43 PM
I spray paint the frame black before I glue in that rear window.
Posted by: Black22 Sep 28 2010, 08:58 PM
I have always used a NEW razor blade to clean any gunk of my glass. A sharp blade will never scratch the glass if the surfaces are parallel. Just don't use the blade like you would a knife to cut a steak. I think is is way easier and not as messy as chemicals. IMHO.
Posted by: ConeDodger Sep 28 2010, 09:00 PM
I have always used a NEW razor blade to clean any gunk of my glass. A sharp blade will never scratch the glass if the surfaces are parallel. Just don't use the blade like you would a knife to cut a steak. I think is is way easier and not as messy as chemicals. IMHO.
Just scrape the window with a single edge razor to clean off the gunk.
Posted by: McMark Sep 28 2010, 09:54 PM
I use a quintuple edge razor blade. More challenging...
I need another beer: 
Posted by: nsr-jamie Sep 29 2010, 06:35 AM
While you are at it you may also want to renew your rear window seal to engine compartment lid (on the outside)...my seal was toast and when I redid my rear window last year I bought the seal from Mikey 914 for very cheap (15-20 dollars forgot) and installed that and it really looked good...I have some pictures of the before/after on my little blog in Japan if you scroll down a bit.
Posted by: jaxdream Sep 29 2010, 07:01 AM
Why not just run another bead of Butyl tape across the gap just below where the rubber seal would contact the glass??? Iwould believe that would seal up pretty good .
My $ .02 ......
Jack / Jaxdream
Posted by: Drums66 Sep 29 2010, 12:59 PM
Don't forget the strip of electrical tape that goes along the bottom of the windshield to hide that band of yellow. Yes, it's the way the factory did it.
I know...kinda funny that the factory used electrical tape. Or should we call it "trim on a roll"?
Thanks for all the advice guys...
....1969 maybe
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