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Posted by: ripper911 Oct 15 2010, 10:53 AM

I've been putting this off, one weekend I was sick, the next was Petit le Mans, it's time to do this!


I have "new" heat exchangers, will be getting a new muffler tomorrow.

I have a heat exchanger hardware kit, should it only have 6 bolts??? I figured it would be eight. But I don't know.

About getting the exhaust off without breaking studs...
Someone suggested using a blowtorch and impact wrench, shoud they be glowing hot, or about how hot?

Everytime my car is in the shop they're drilling out exhaust studs, should that mean that they have all been fixed well enough to hold, or is it more likely that I'll be drilling them out as well?
and if so, how do I do that???

Please help.

Posted by: messix Oct 15 2010, 11:02 AM

pb blaster over night and mine came off easy, well one stud came out with the nut but the threads in the heads are still good.

i even used a 1/4" drive ratchet!

Posted by: RFoulds Oct 15 2010, 11:45 AM

I second that. PB Blaster, NOT WD40. I start in the morning, and resquirt every hour. After 5 or 6 soaks, everything comes off nicely.

Posted by: pcar916 Oct 15 2010, 11:49 AM

Ditto or use Kroils, which is just as good. Do this on all of the rusted parts on the car. Life is better that way.

Or you can make your own penetrant with ATF and acetone... works just as well.

Good luck

Posted by: underthetire Oct 15 2010, 12:39 PM

And no impact. If they don't come easy, you'll break one for sure. Ask me how I know

Posted by: messix Oct 15 2010, 12:50 PM

use the copper coated nuts. and Dan
Root [root werx] is the one that clued me in on the 1/4" drive. and use that same when you bolt the new ones up, you don't need or want to over torque them.

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 15 2010, 01:22 PM

I have the proper copper coated bolts and everything....

But, why are there only six?

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 15 2010, 01:24 PM

and does anyone have a good method in case I do break studs?
? ?

Posted by: Chris Hamilton Oct 15 2010, 07:09 PM

Rost-off xtra is worth its weight in gold when you do exhaust work.

Posted by: nathansnathan Oct 15 2010, 08:46 PM

sounds like you got the kit for holding the stock muffler to the other end of the heaterboxes, there are 6 studs out of a stock muffler.

The hardest part is putting the heaterbox back up and keeping the copper gaskets in place. The pushrod tubes will try to knock them off. I've used copper silicone, but you have to wait until it dries.

Then there is making sure they actually are sealed. This is what I use for that



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Posted by: ripper911 Oct 16 2010, 04:39 PM

Thanks, I assumed the bolts were to mount the Heat exchangers to the engine...

But... AA was closed today

So... once again, it's gotta wait. Haven't got a good muffler yet.

Time to cook on the grill, then build a campfire and drink EARTHQUAKE 12% alc/vol beer in 24oz cans

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 16 2010, 05:15 PM

Earthquake? Now that is trailer

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 16 2010, 05:39 PM

.99 each

Posted by: carr914 Oct 16 2010, 07:21 PM

But does it taste like used Mobil1?

Posted by: championgt1 Oct 16 2010, 09:28 PM

Tastes more like used Pennzoil.

Posted by: cary Oct 17 2010, 07:32 AM

PB Blaster. I usually give it a couple applications.

Then try and give it about 1/8 of a turn tighter. That sometimes breaks the rust bond. But if that fails its time to get out the weapons.

I use a small MAP gas torch. Get the nut cherry red. Then slowly back it off. If it doesn't come. Start over. PB Blaster overnight. Then torch again.
A propane torch won't work. The key is getting the nut cherry red to expand it. Your expanding the nut, not burning the rust.

Patience is a virtue. And it costs less $$$$$$$$$. If the stud comes too. No big deal. That's what they make Loctite for. Out together is better that snapped off.

Then like everyone else has said. Put on new copper nuts with copper based Never Seize. Then your good to go ...............