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Posted by: JRust Oct 25 2010, 11:33 PM

Okay so this is my latest find. This is a 74 with a 13b Rotary motor that was built by Racing Beat in CA. Looks like they were in Anneheim. Not sure if they are still around. Guy bought it in similar condition to selling it. When he bought it the motor had overheated. He took it to Racing beat & had it completely rebuilt. Said it was pushing 220hp but only got 5mpg. I know rotary's came in rx-7's for the most part. Thats about the extent of my knowledge of the rotary. The guy has had this sitting in his garage since 99 when it overheated on him. He said it won't run but will turn over. I'll get more detailed pics of the fron radiator setup with oil cooler. Take a look at the motor pics. Defintely looks to have been a pretty hot motor. Kind of figuring to go Suby with the TDI conversion as a possibility.

Anyone looking for a project I have like 3 cars I will be getting rid of .

Anyway take alook at the pics & let me know what you think. Paint code is l64k which is a forest green. Obviously it was repainted some shade of red/orange


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Posted by: brant Oct 25 2010, 11:36 PM

how much rust...
I need to get a new project with low/no rust
you need to tell me about these 3 vehicles.

brant

Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 25 2010, 11:43 PM

Did you ever think of finishing one of them before starting another....oh, I think I'm talking to myself again.

Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 25 2010, 11:52 PM

Edited as the two threads we merged

Posted by: JRust Oct 25 2010, 11:55 PM

I did. Sorry Billy I somehow did a DBL post & this one had the pictures. My bad as it kind of locked up & went to the windows cannot connect or whatever the heck it was. So I backed up & redid it. I should have checked first .

I couldn't pass on the car. Very solid car & the paint is in great shape. Motor is bad but I can deal with that.

Posted by: Mikey914 Oct 26 2010, 02:07 AM

Sounds kind of interesting. Any idea as to what's wrong? May be woth just throwing a few $ into getting it going if it's not too far gone.

Kind of funny, I don't even look at Craigslist anymore, I woould just keep buying these deals that are too good to pass up.

There is no 12step program for this!

Posted by: Bleyseng Oct 26 2010, 04:16 AM

Racing Beat is still around but a 13B ported to 220hp isn't going to be a street engine.

Posted by: Gint Oct 26 2010, 04:55 AM

Merged your threads since both threads had posts in them.

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 26 2010, 06:13 AM

I don't see any PICTURES!!


-Robert

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 08:06 AM

Okay got the pics added again. Just a mixup with my dbl post. All better now

Posted by: RJMII Oct 26 2010, 08:08 AM

Jamie needs this shirt.

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 08:16 AM

Hey I resemble that remark

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 26 2010, 08:48 AM

I'm thinking of doing a rotary conversion. Those little wankels are awesome. Looks too nice for me though. Don't think I can afford it.

Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 26 2010, 08:50 AM

I want one of those shirts

Posted by: markb Oct 26 2010, 09:40 AM

Posted by: 6freak Oct 26 2010, 12:21 PM

Mazda also put rotary`s in some of there trucks

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 01:21 PM

I'm a little surprised to see dual MSD boxes in it. Any reason one isn't enough?

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Oct 26 2010, 01:26 PM

You are the man Jamie! I have a friend here in town that put a 13B in a Ford Ranger and races it in the Tough Truck competitions. It is funny when all these Rednecks hear it start up with straight header! They laugh until it goes through the course, It wins everytime! Them V8 guys get pissed.

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 26 2010, 01:29 PM

Mazda ignition system has 2 coils,, Leading and Trailing. 2 MSD boxes is overkill and just adds to the bling factor.
Thanks for fixing the pics! It fits in the engine bay pretty nicely don't ya think?


-Robert

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 01:58 PM

It does fit nicely in there for sure. I was suprised how small that motor is.

Posted by: oldschool Oct 26 2010, 02:24 PM

no problem i will print a doz up,......place your orders

Posted by: oldschool Oct 26 2010, 02:25 PM

Can you take some photos of the motor mounts, and rad.

Posted by: Rand Oct 26 2010, 03:19 PM

When I saw the pic of the radiator setup they used, my first thought was, "that ain't gonna work." Too bad they didn't go with a Renegade-style setup with an adequate radiator.

Damn shame they smoked that Racing Beat motor. It would be a sweet package with the 914. So small and low, great power, easy curve on the 901.

A little deja vu, Jamie... Reminds me of the v8 car when you got it. It would be cool to upgrade the cooling system in this one too, if the motor wasn't a total.

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 03:39 PM

I need to take pics of the radiator setup. There is actually a shroud but it definately isn't in the league of my renegade radiator in my v8 car. I think it would be okay though. It overheated because the guy put the wrong thermostat iis what he said. He drove it like a year with no problems. Had a guy fluch the system & do a little work. He replaced the thermostat & the next longer drive he took it got hot??? I'll get more pics but it might not be tonight. Busy with kids games tonight till late.

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 26 2010, 04:35 PM

Jaimie, show us pics of the radiator setup/ Now I'm curious...

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 26 2010, 04:39 PM

I had the same engine in my VW bus. I forgot to tighten the cap once. Overheated and blew the engine. Those motors are fragile when it comes to over heating. It problably blew the apex seals. Full rebuild is usually needed after something like this.

Posted by: jsaum Oct 26 2010, 04:44 PM

Atkins Rotary here in Puyallup builds race engines and supplies parts. Dave the owner has a 700HP twin turbo rotary in a Mazda Cosmo and a wall of trophy's to go with it! That motor might be worth looking into fixing! I would be tempted if it wasn't for the fact that I seem to be having enough difficulty trying to get a stock 914 on the road!

Good luck,
Jsaum

Posted by: Rand Oct 26 2010, 04:48 PM

I was recalling the pic you posted on Facebook, where the radiator was leaning backwards toward the rear of the trunk and there was a hole in the front of the trunk floor. It must have been partly disassembled and I didn't realize it?

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 06:01 PM

Yeah the shroud goes in & out pretty easily. I will add more pics of it.

Posted by: speed metal army Oct 26 2010, 06:18 PM

A fellah who builds crazy rotary stuff up here used to buy SS fittings from my shop.He pulled up in a "beater" rx7 one day,and said "hey,ever been in one of my cars?"


We went for a burn in this thing,and I just about crapped my drawers.It was INSANE.
For sure one of the fastest cars ive ever been in,and the motor looked to be the size of a sewing machine,and sounded like a bloody jet plane.Keep in mind he had off board plc stuff hanging ouf the dash,extensive turbo mods etc.but still,Yeesh!

Thinking of that particular motor,makes me say fix that thing.I bet its a riot.

Posted by: srb7f Oct 26 2010, 06:28 PM

My DD is a RX-8, so I know enough about the rotary to stay out of trouble.

If the engine has overheated, the apex seals are likely trashed and a full rebuild will be needed. Whatever cooling system is in there sounds like it needs to be optimized before considering putting a new engine in place.

The rotary isn't known for its longevity, but if maintained well it can last a long time. It burns oil by design, so one has to be very meticulous about adding oil at every other fill-up or else major engine failure can occur. Some even advocate premixing oil into the gas, like a 2 stroke motor.

Heat is the other enemy of these things, and they do burn hot, hence their relative inefficiency compared to other cars on the road today.

That said, the power to size ratio of the rotary can't be beat. Being able to scream them at 8500 RPM with the whirrling sound is a feeling that just can't be beat. Certainly enough in my mind to put up with their imperfections. Sure would be awesome in a 914.

Posted by: computers4kids Oct 26 2010, 06:35 PM

OK Jamie...you know what I'm thinking...I'll refrain Instead, "nice find."

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 08:19 PM

Radiator pics! Pulls in the front bottom channels it up to radiator which is angled back down & then back out the bottom? Drove it quite a while with it like this with no problems? Definately not an optimal setup but could work okay


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Posted by: oldschool Oct 26 2010, 08:52 PM

What are the 2 black things near the air dam?

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 10:12 PM

Do you mean my flat tow bar?

Posted by: oldschool Oct 26 2010, 10:38 PM

no in photo 1 next to the tits

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 10:48 PM

Ah sorry. That is part of the valance. I think he cut off the middle piece that stretched across the front.

Posted by: oldschool Oct 26 2010, 10:56 PM

Its funny how even in your name you of rust

Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 11:14 PM

Yes my last name is Rust. Ironic I know

Here are some pics of my motor mounts & engine bar.


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Posted by: JRust Oct 26 2010, 11:57 PM

Pics of the muffler. Not great as the car isn't in the air


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Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 27 2010, 10:39 AM

Is that a heater core bolted to the engine bar?

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Oct 27 2010, 10:48 AM

Somebody did a nice conversion on that. All of the work looks real good. Looks like everything is well thought out.

Bob

Posted by: oldschool Oct 27 2010, 11:02 AM

it looks like

Posted by: oldschool Oct 27 2010, 11:02 AM

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 27 2010, 11:37 AM

That's the oil cooler,, with beer keg engines (rotaries) they expel 2/3 of the heat thru the radiator, and 1/3 of the heat thru a large aluminum oil cooler.

-Robert

Posted by: Todd Enlund Oct 27 2010, 02:53 PM

Fixed it.

Posted by: PanelBilly Oct 27 2010, 03:02 PM

Have you checked the vin to see if its an LE?

Posted by: Tom_T Oct 27 2010, 03:10 PM

Jaime, you've got this 914 disease BAAAAD bud!
... have you considered counseling or intervention!?

Congratz!

Posted by: oldschool Oct 27 2010, 03:23 PM

Ok Tom are you talking about me JAIME or Jamie

Posted by: Root_Werks Oct 27 2010, 03:25 PM

Man, someone should snag this, drop a decent used 13B and just be done with it, drive it.



Maybe square up the front radiator setup a little better, but still......it's already all done.

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2010, 03:37 PM

Yeah I am leaning more towards just keeping it rotary. The conversion is done really well besides the radiator. I've got my rotary people looking into motor options for me(Jaime). Including fixing mine if it is rebuildable. It's kind of hard to imagine having a motor that revs to 10k rpm safely. I only wish there was someone close with a rotary in their 914. I would really like to see what it feels like.

Posted by: srb7f Oct 27 2010, 06:38 PM

Sure looks to be a nice conversion overall. Why not go the extra distance with the radiator though if you're thinking of a new/rebuilt motor...bumper cutout replaced with grille, optimize flow/position, and I bet it would work more efficiently.

That would be super fun to drive...

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2010, 06:54 PM

I actually allready have a good radiator setup for it. I definately will replace the current setup. If I am going to go through the trouble to rebuild this motor or get another rotary. I will make sure the cooling will do it's job

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 27 2010, 07:06 PM

Spend $1600 on a JDM turbo rotary 13B and drop it in. You got the perfect setup. I'm thinking about a 20B Turbo (3 rotor) They are stock with 285hp and 290ft lbs. With the 20B you add a boost control, fuel mapping and exhaust and you get an easy 400hp without going too radical. You need to figure out a spot for the intercooler. You have the adapter already... about $3500 for the 20B JDM.

Or, just scrap the whole idea and do one of these bad ass conversions...

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2010, 07:36 PM

Holy crapola who butchered that car?

I'm looking into rebuilding this motor first. As everything is setup for it that makes the most sense. If it will cost to much then I will consider my options for another rotary motor.

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 27 2010, 09:07 PM

I found that pic on DDK. there is a guy on SF bay CL that will rebuild it for $950. Not sure what's up north??? Got to be a rotary guy in Oregon?

Posted by: oldschool Oct 27 2010, 09:20 PM

I would like to see how many Rotary 914 dudes get the cars on the road

Posted by: Rand Oct 27 2010, 09:22 PM

I have a friend in Corvallis who is a rotary guru and seasoned autocrosser. Let me know if you want a connection to explore.

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 27 2010, 09:38 PM

There was a white Chalon 914 rotary for sale on craigs list a few months ago, $3500. If you search 914 rotary on you tube, you can see it.

There was another on Ebay a year ago from Las Vegas. I almost bought that one but got cold feet. That one is on the web too flat red paint with black hood.

There are a few on this site too. Here's Rotary 914's (I think)

Posted by: srb7f Oct 27 2010, 09:40 PM

Not sure how close these guys would be to you, but it may be worth a call. They're somewhere in WA and appear to be highly thought of on the RX-8 discussion board.

I have ordered basic rotary tune-up stuff only so far, but from the looks of their website they have just about anything you would need.


http://www.atkinsrotary.com/

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2010, 10:24 PM

A local guy hell yeah I want his contact info! I will definately give him a call. Just what I need

Posted by: jsaum Oct 27 2010, 10:38 PM

www.atkinsrotary.com

Posted by: JRust Oct 28 2010, 08:22 AM

Sorry that pic with the fan is from the front trunk. It's the backside of the radiator. I just was reaching under with my camera for a picture. So you really can't tell where it is. I plan to get it in the air saturday & will get some better pics. Radiator has hard lines running under the car.

Posted by: Rand Oct 28 2010, 11:12 AM

Cool. I emailed contact info. He may be able to help you get that thing rebuilt on a budget. If nothing else, I think you guys will enjoy talking.

Posted by: RJMII Oct 28 2010, 01:02 PM

yeah, Jamie definitely enjoys talking!

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 28 2010, 11:17 PM

Atkins is expensive! I know they do good work but Here is a link to the guy down here...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/2030722944.html

Posted by: JRust Oct 29 2010, 07:55 AM

Jaime (old school) has a guy down there who will do it right for very reasonable. Still seeing what my new local guy may be up for. I've got a line on a used motor in LA pretty cheap that came out of a running car. I am going to probably pick it up. It is at the least a good core. If it checks out & works I may throw it in while I fix the other. Or I may just get it pulled apart & rebuilt with some port work. Be nice to get it road worthy while building a motor though

Posted by: JRust Oct 29 2010, 05:06 PM

I just bought a used 13b from a 88 rx-7 off ebay. Didn't have any pictures & the guy hadn't sold anything on ebay before. Hopefully I don't get totally hosed. Only into $335 so I won't get to screwed. I did use paypal so I should be okay. Just have no idea what will come with the motor . It was cheap so I figured what the hell. Worst case I can at least pull it apart to get a feel for these motors . Best case the motor is good & I can throw it in my car

Posted by: Lennies914 Oct 29 2010, 05:28 PM

Jamie, there's a guy down here that has a 13b on a engine stand. He wants $100 for it and that includes the stand. Another in San rafeal for $300 on CL and I think that one included a spare core motor. I know you don't want a stock pile of them but I also know how often you buy 914's

Posted by: JRust Oct 29 2010, 05:36 PM

That was pretty damn funny. You know if they were close I might consider them. The one for $100 on a stand is tempting. I do need to make a trip to CA sometime in the near future. Have a 5-lug suspension waiting for me in the San Fran area. Just want to have multpile reasons for heading down to make it worthwhile. Still I have 2 13b motor's now. That should hold me over for a bit

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 29 2010, 11:18 PM

Jaime, I want your rotary experience to be a good one, I know a thing or 2 about these engines and I've stayed at a Holiday Inn before. As I told you in the PM I sent, you need an early 13b. You will have to change a bunch of stuff to get the 88 motor into your car. The intake will not bolt up, the engine mounts are in the wrong place, the counter weight on the flywheel will have to be changed, the rotor housings will not work with your streetport. You should be looking for an earlier 13b (pre 1984) to take advantage of all the stuff you have. You gotta be careful,, 13bs come in different flavors just like T4s.

-Robert

Posted by: JRust Oct 29 2010, 11:39 PM

So what are you trying to say Robert? LOL! Damn I thought 88 was an early I thought the 13b went to 91 or so. It's all good I'll just get it to pull it apart. At least I can learn with it. Besides it being the wrong motor for me anyway . I thought pre 84 was the 12a motors. Okay so not the first time I have been confused . So what specific year should I be looking for?? Is there anything in the 88 motor I might be able to use on the rebuild of mine?

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 30 2010, 09:33 AM

If you want to use your 88 motor in your car,,,
You will need an 86~88 automatic counterweight. If the motor you bought is from an automatic car, you might have that already. if not you can buy one (the kennedy flywheel attaches to the auto counterweight) You need to locate an 84~85 GSLSE front cover, the old style engines mounted to the car from the front cover, 86 and later they moved the engine mounts. The GSLSE front cover also has the correct oil metering distributor you need to match up with the 88 oil injection system. You can use your current front cover off your dead engine, but it's not the best, either way you need to swap the front cover. You also have to swap you oil pans, because it depends on which front cover you use. You can buy adaptor plates that would change the stud pattern of the intake to match your current intake set up. or just buy a new intake manifold (not cheap).

If you were to buy another engine,, you want a 1974~1983 13B 4port, with one of these engines, all the stuff you have sitting on your "dead" motor will swap over with minimal fuss.

-Robert

Posted by: JRust Oct 30 2010, 09:44 AM

Now I am really lost. I thought the 13b was 2nd gen & started in 1986? All the rx-7s I see pre 86 have the 12a motor? Is there somewhere that has a breakdown of which motors came in which cars

Posted by: charliew Oct 30 2010, 10:07 AM

Ahhhh a new learning curve experience. I was told the rotary was a really heavy motor for it's power potential.

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 30 2010, 10:09 AM

copied from wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Wankel_engine

1975–1980 Mazda Cosmo AP
1974–1977 Mazda Rotary Pickup
1975–1977 Mazda Roadpacer
1973–1978 Mazda RX-4
1975–1980 RX-5

-Robert

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 30 2010, 10:13 AM

Rotary engines are "dense" all the weight is centralized into a beer keg sized lump. I think the power to weight ratio is pretty damn good N/A (but the newer aluminum 4 bangers do have good ratios too) and when you turbo them, they make insane power and insane heat.

-Robert

Posted by: charliew Oct 30 2010, 10:20 AM

I always like the rpms of the rotarys but remember the gas guzling of the little rotary pickups of the early ones.

So will 4000.00 build a complete 250 hp na rotary? or would that hp level need a turbo?

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 30 2010, 11:07 AM

For 4K you coule buy a JDM 20B turbo rotary. 285hp, 290 Ft Lbs. And run it stock with no mods. With minor tweaking, you can get 400hp and still be reliable. JDM stuff is different than US engines slightly.

A 250hp NA rotary is pretty radical to squeeze that much HP. You can get almost that much hp from a stock 13B turbo. With minor tweaking get to 250hp, no problem. But a 250hp NA wont be a great dd street motor. When you port them to get that much hp it does two major things. 1)impacts idle quality ans speed. 2) reduces low end torque and rasies HP in upper rpms. Street porting is all you want to do to a daily driven car.

I had a stock (almost) 13B in my VW Bus Chop Top. It was around 165hp and hauled ass. It sounded wicked! I will be doing this conversion to my 914 at some point. I need to get rid of my V8 first. I will be going turbo, just not sure which one. My goal is 300-350hp. Very doable and still reliable. If I go with a 20B, I'll leave it mostly stock.

Posted by: Rotary'14 Oct 30 2010, 11:14 AM

Yes I believe you can build a 13B with 230~250 at the motor, with that budget. These engines are called Bridge Ports. They have a lumpy idle that sounds pretty cool to me. You can get away with running a Weber 51 IDA (modified 48) or a Holly 650 double pumper. IF you go FI, your drive-ability will be much better but peak HP won't change too much. Hell I read that Racing Beat has built a 300 hp N/A race engine called a Peripheral Port that they have dyno sheets for. You might not like how it idles because it's pretty high strung. Bridge ports and Peripheral ports don't like to be muffled. Street ports can tolerate some mufflers.

Racing Beat
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRrotary.htm

Mazdatrix (more affordable)
http://www.mazdatrix.com/

Atkins (I don't know too much about them)
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/

some rotary discussion about max N/A hp
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=420260
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=401800&page=1&pp=15

cool sound from the bridge port, the sound may sound tinny, but the lope is there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCwJ0YheHMQ&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WUSLunulHE

my apologies to the "purist" out there, but why are you reading this thread?

-Robert

Posted by: roadster fan Oct 30 2010, 11:53 AM

Hey Jamie,

Looks like a cool project! I think alot of confusion on these engines is due to the fact that there are three generations of body styles on the RX7's. I think many refer to the body style Gen 1, Gen 2, etc and the 84-85 Gen 1 came with a 12a or 12b motor.

Sounds like Robert (rotary'14) has a way above average knowledge of these engines.

How much would you need to get for the project to move it to another enthusiast so you could finish one of your other projects ?

Jim

Posted by: JRust Nov 1 2010, 05:25 PM

No plans to sell it but thanks to those interested. I really want to drive this car. I am just hoping for an open saturday. I'll be pulling the drivetrain then & getting the motor on a stand. Then pulling it apart & seeing what shape it is in. What the best manual to get on the motor. Just a haynes or is there one that is much better? Thanks again for everyone's advice. Especially Robert & Jaime . I owe you guys when I get down there

Posted by: oldschool Nov 1 2010, 05:49 PM

I pick up a cool book some time ago, I need to go look for it.....in the garage I think Robert may know of a good motor rebuild book?

Posted by: kg6dxn Nov 1 2010, 06:33 PM

I have a haynes manual. I would not use only this manual to rebuild one. Check out pineappleracing.com They have some cool videos and stuff. The engines are pretty simple. No pistons, No valves, No rods, No cam, No heads.

Posted by: Rotary'14 Nov 1 2010, 06:53 PM

There's a whole series of rebuild videos on Youtube,,

part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ixgG9ajtmU
part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nknKs_-W2iI&feature=related
part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIX5QrtbEg4&feature=related
etc,,, there are like 12 parts. I suggest using an engine stand instead of a coffee can(really he uses a coffee can!)

The manual is good for specs and clearances,, actually seeing somebody put it together with commentary is the best way to play.

-Robert

Posted by: JRust Nov 1 2010, 09:25 PM

I watched those 3. I will check out the others too. Thanks for the links. I am going to pick up a Haynes to refer too. Any other manuals anyone uses let me know

Posted by: Bleyseng Nov 2 2010, 02:24 PM

set the motor up like this. Late model 13b with a turbo good for 300hp.


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Posted by: JRust Nov 2 2010, 08:05 PM

As tempting as it is to go crazy & get a real moster rotary with turbo. I am going to just stick with the original motor first. Once I drive it for a while. If it's not enough then maybe I will go a little crazy with it. The real question is will it make me sell my v8

Posted by: Rotary'14 Nov 2 2010, 08:08 PM

Rotaries can be addicting. You should find a local Rx head and ask for a ride. They wind and wind and wind out.

-Robert

Posted by: JRust Nov 18 2010, 01:12 PM

I put this up temporarily in the classifieds for sale. It's up for a week as I've got an opportunity on a house. If I can sell this & not borrow the money cool. If I borrow the money then I will just keep it.

Posted by: realred914 Nov 20 2010, 11:42 AM

that there is purty sweet!!!!

i like the radiator set up imensly!!!! no cuts out in teh inner wheel wheels, that is smart!!!

any idea on the power output on this little rotory motor????

they sure can rev, my friend old rx2 staionwagon had a small rotary with over 120 Hp and it reved at 7000 rpm, a real kick to drvie, two distributors also, one with a single points and one with a pair of them.



neat car!!!

Posted by: Sleepin Nov 20 2010, 01:37 PM

I am just waiting on this shirt!




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Posted by: RJMII Nov 20 2010, 02:55 PM

I'm still working on it! The design could be much better, and I'm slowly plugging away at it.

Which reminds me... Jamie, could you get me an artistic side shot picture of your v8 car on jackstands?

Posted by: eastbay851 Jan 6 2011, 08:31 PM

for what it is worth.... i am running a ported 13b in my 914. it just hit the street a month ago. i have about 1500 miles on it. it is bridgeported and barely streetable. but.... i have owned porsches since 1969 and this 914 rotary is the funnest i ve ever owned. the quickest porsche i ve ever been in was a friends built 914-6. it put my head back in the headrest deeper than my 911 72S built by Carrera motors in san mateo with all the trick stuff. my rotary in the same 914 body.... untouchable by either of the previously mentioned 2 cars. it was a ton of work. the entire radiator, oil cooler thing brought the weight of the entire package back up to the weight of the 2.0 engine but good god.... it loud and obnoxious and the body is almost perfect now with new paint and it absolutely turns heads.... some in pain (sound) some in the typical "i had one of those when...." until i turn it over. one tip, if you get the 13b rebuilt or you rebuild it yourself, the dipstick is 12" long. buy a dial lab thermometer and check your temp every now and then. and... i put a couple of ounces of 2 stroke oil in my gas tank every fill up. KEEP THE ROTARY.

Posted by: kg6dxn Jan 6 2011, 10:16 PM

I'm building a 13B turbo for mine. I agree about the roatry power. I plan on having mine ready for WCR 2011 this year.

Posted by: oldschool Jan 7 2011, 01:08 AM

Now your talking ,rock on....whats your 20

sorry I see it now.

Posted by: rdauenhauer Jan 7 2011, 02:53 AM

I need one of those.

Posted by: johannes Jan 7 2011, 08:33 AM

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Posted by: AMG Jan 7 2011, 11:15 AM

Just a heads up, one of the bigger problems we see with the rotorys is their apex seals ( that is a rotory's version of piston rings). The 13b has 2mm seals where the 12a has 3mm seals, but bigger doesn't mean better. It is all about the material the apex seals are made of. Another thing to look out for is the ports. The 12a has the intake ports on the top, where the 13b has its intake ports on the side. This means the 13b has intake exhaust port overlap. This overlap means that they have to run the engine pig rich to keep it idling. On the renesis engine ( the rx-8's engine) the engineers moved the ports back to the top. If you had the money to built a renesis, that would be the way to go. If anyone has any questions ask me, I have been messing with these engines for almost 12 years. If I don't know something, I know where to find it.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 7 2011, 07:52 PM

AMG... I have a question.

I have a friend who's son is in the service in Afganastan. While there he gave her strict instructions to start his 04 renesis a couple of times a week and to drive it at least once a week while he's gone, All was going fine until her daughter was in an accident with her car and totaled it. During the car searching/taking her back and forth to 2 jobs, she kind of neglected his car. It's not starting now. He seems to think it's gummed up or some such thing. They both are kinda clueless on this stuff as am I with Rotary's.

It's a brand new battery, it turns over but won't catch.

Is this common? What is to be done?

Posted by: RJMII Jan 7 2011, 07:59 PM

Hey French Guy/Johannes... add the 914 sillouhette (sp?) on jackstands. and it'd be perfect. (otherwise it's copying a shirt that is already for sale on thinkgeek.com and might have some copyright issues, depending on overseas laws on that sort of thing)

Posted by: AMG Jan 8 2011, 04:23 PM

The first thing I would do is look to make sure that it isn't flooded. These little engines flood kind of easily. Pull the spark plugs and crank the engine for a few seconds. Put a towel in front of the spark plug ports so you don't blow fuel all over the engine bay. While you have them out, check the spark plugs, you may want to replace them if they are getting old. Try this first, pm me if this doesn't fix it.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 9 2011, 08:07 PM

Thanks! I'll inform her. Are they easily accessible?

Posted by: kg6dxn Jan 9 2011, 08:15 PM

In the pic, on the right side (drivers) under the brake booster. There is 4 of them. Leading and Trailing. Do not mix up the spark plug wires.

Posted by: JRust Feb 2 2011, 02:31 PM

I had a guy email me that has a 4 port 13 from Japan. He is in the LA area. Supposedly only 20k on it & he guarantees at least 100psi or better on both housings. He wants $1100 for it as the picture shows. My problem is I can't tell if this is even the same motor. Chime in Rotary guru's. I'm still not opposed to trying the rotary for a while. I just don't want to sink a bunch of money into it to do so. Even $1100 is more than I would really want to spend for one. That is still cheaper than swapping to a suby though. I can still put the 2.5 suby motor I bought in my v8 car instead.

Well look at these pics & tell me what you think. I'd only consider it if it is a direct swap for my motor. Meaning all my parts will transfer over. Same motor should be no problem to swap & drive the same day right


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Posted by: michaelt55 Feb 2 2011, 02:52 PM

Well..I had a kit car with a 13B rotary in it. Only issue I had was that it made a lot of heat from the exhaust. Exhaust glowed red when I ran it hard. Sounded like a sewing machine on crack!! As far as parts interchanging, intake and exhaust(12A vs 13B) are the parts that will not interchange with the different years for the most part. Esp if they are street ported or not.

Posted by: kg6dxn Feb 2 2011, 03:32 PM

That engine looks like a 12A. 4 barrel carb version. 165hp with a header and no smog equipment. Could be a 13B, it will say what is is on top right above the spark plugs.

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2011, 02:14 PM

Guy says it is a 13b 4port. I put a wanted add in the RX-7 classifieds. He replied with this. Wants $1100 for it. It would be the easiest way to get this 914 back on the road. Was really hoping to find one cheaper though. I've got some thinking to do I guess

Posted by: kg6dxn Feb 3 2011, 03:55 PM

Jaime, if you go for it, you will not regret it. These little engines spool up so fast, have an awesome power to weight ratio. That engine weighs around 250lbs. I had the same engine as the one pictured in a 12A version in my 63 VW Bus. That thing was stupid fast! That's why I'm putting the turbo version in my 914. You have to drive it to beleive it!

Posted by: rascobo Feb 3 2011, 04:32 PM

Sorry, I haven't had time to read the entire thread, but in '89 a rotory was the first conversion I did to mine. Long story short went through six motors in less than three years. and never ran them above 6000 rpm. Some were stock others custom built, but ALL failed. In my opinion the mid engine layout of our cars allows too much ambient heat to build up, and rotories simply can't handle it. To be more specific the water temp may read 160 or 180 degrees but oil temp creeps up and the . There's no mass in the case to handle it and it just frys (god forbid you get an air bubble in the cooling system or lose a hose or belt because it's a paper weight before you can turn off the key and coast to the side of the road). I will allow that the addition of a adequate (read large) oil cooler may help with the lack of air flow in the engine compartment, my advise is don't replace a fried motor with another. I dropped in a mildly built (220hp) GM 4.3 V-6 (a much nicer fit than the small block)in '93 and have never had to touch it since. Best of luck whatever You do.

Posted by: oldschool Feb 3 2011, 08:10 PM

do you have any photos of the Rotary? or your now beast

Posted by: Rotary'14 Feb 3 2011, 08:35 PM

It will swap perfectly with your current blown motor. The intake will bolt right up too. You will probably need to tune the carb a bit because it will be a little too rich for your stock motor. Everything else will bolt right up and work.

-Robert

Posted by: kg6dxn Feb 3 2011, 08:36 PM

Roscobo,
Where was your oil cooler mounted? I am running a 24x24 cooler in front with AN12 lines. I will agree if you do not have enough oil cooling these engines will fail. When I had the 12A in the bus, both the radiator and oil cooler were mounted in the rear. I never had a cooling problem. When I had my V8 in the 914 the temps never got above 160f. I do not expect cooling problems with my current setup but I am installing a huge cooler in front of the radiator. Bigger than I need. I also flush tha air out of my system with a vacuum pump.

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2011, 08:41 PM

Anyone know of 4port 13b cheaper? Is that a good price for it?

Posted by: Rotary'14 Feb 3 2011, 08:42 PM

I daily drove my 1st rotary 914 for about 3 years thru LA stop and go traffic, and a San Francisco road trip before the body went to crap and I had to scrap it due to lack of funds. I still have that motor. These engines need good cooling systems.

-Robert

Posted by: Rotary'14 Feb 3 2011, 08:44 PM

It's a bit pricey,, but those motors are getting harder to find. and Nope I don't know of any cheaper.

-Robert

Posted by: JRust Feb 3 2011, 11:40 PM

What kind of HP is the stock 13b 4port? Well with header from my current & 4 barrel carb.

Posted by: JRust Feb 10 2011, 12:53 AM

Okay I have finally decided. While I have been curious to drive my 914 with the rotary conversion. The reliability of a suby with the better MPG just makes more sense for me. I have taken the plunge & am picking up most of the parts I need to install my suby. I will be picking them up this weekend. I am getting a bit of a hybrid suby motor with a 2.5 block with 2.2 heads. Alot of the hard work is allready done for me. Thanks to Dean going with a newer motor & suby trans. I'm also making 2 914 owners happy by doing most by trade. I get good stuff & so does he.

As soon as I am able I will be pulling all the rotary parts & selling them. The suby drivetrain will be going in shortly after. I will post my progress as I go.

Thanks to everyone for the help with my many questions on rotary motors in general. Holy cow what a learning experience that motor is. Talk about originality the rotary motor is a trip & amazing. I can't wait to see Mike's at WCR & go for a ride. You'll kick my butt in a race but I will have my suby going by then too. We will have some very cool conversions at WCR this year

Posted by: oldschool Feb 10 2011, 11:35 AM

Cool beans...mex beans

Posted by: JRust Feb 13 2011, 01:14 PM

Picked up my new motor & met Sawtooth (Dean). His suby conversion really turned out nice. The exhaust has a great sound to it & it pulls great. My 16" fuchs are going to look kick ass on his car. Especially after he adds his flares & paints it. Sad to see those go but will be happy to get my new motor in my car & get a 914 on the road again. I'll get some pics when I get home & figure out how to unload it without lifting anything over 15lbs

Posted by: Sleepin Feb 13 2011, 02:21 PM

Posted by: JRust Feb 13 2011, 09:50 PM

Okay Eric here are a couple pics. Now I just have to figure out how to unload the damn motor without picking it up


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Posted by: bfrymire Feb 13 2011, 10:22 PM

Friends + Beer (or pizza) = engine out of car.

Posted by: sawtooth Feb 14 2011, 12:08 AM

Hey Jamie, it was great meeting you and gettin to talk 914 for a while. Hope the trip home was a good one. Can't wait to see and hear that suby running in your car!

Posted by: Sleepin Feb 14 2011, 01:39 AM

Open the hatch....accelerate rapidly in reverse.....slam on brakes!

Posted by: sawtooth Feb 15 2011, 02:48 PM

Oh man have some respect for the choice suby components.

Posted by: JRust Feb 19 2011, 02:46 PM

So I have my car up high to remove the drivetrain. Took some pics as I found some cool stuff I didn't notice before. The radiator setup to start I didn't actually look to closely at the lines they ran up front. They ran hard pipe all the way under to the front. Also there is an oil cooler with the lines ran. I didn't notice before but one of the oil lines they actually have running through the return radiator line. They basically drilled a hole on both ends & welded it up to seal it . I would have never thought of it but seems like it would sure help oil temps.

2nd cool thing was they have it set up for heat allready. Where it sits I never noticed it before. Ok yeah I admit I didn't look that closely . Still where they have it will work peferctly with my suby setup. I won't have to run lines to reuse it very far at all. That is assuming it was working to begin with . I should be able to tap into all my power & ignition the same way they did. I'm labeling every wire I unhook. This should make my swap pretty easy overall. While I don't love the current radiator setup. I am going to run with it for now as there isn't much reason to change it.

Kinda of wondering if I should bother doing the oil cooler or not? Maybe leave it in place but not hook it up to start? What do you think?


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Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Feb 19 2011, 03:10 PM

Jamie that car is really done nice, Who ever did that was a real pro. All the water lines look good. how is the radiator mounted it looks like from the picture it could be lay flat.


Bob

Posted by: JRust Feb 19 2011, 09:01 PM

Well I didn't get the rotary pulled out today. It is ready to drop as I've got everything disconnected. Just overdid it a bit after my hernia surgery last week. Thought I popped something in my gut. Turns out it was just a socket that fell on me while I was laying under the car . After getting cleaned up enough to check my bandage. All was good but figured I better stop for the day just to be safe.

Really been impressed with whoever did this rotary conversion. It was well thought out & done well. It will make my suby coversion even easier. I've got to see what fuel pump it uses. Anyone know what a suby motor requires for fuel pressure?

Posted by: kg6dxn Feb 19 2011, 09:12 PM

Subies are injected, so 45+/- psi. The carb on that rotary is 5+/- psi. I agree, that was a well thought out conversion. I had a lay down radiator built for my first V8 conversion. It allowed me to keep some front trunk space. Worked great! Just blew up too much dust on unpaved roads.

Posted by: JRust Mar 12 2011, 11:22 PM

I finally got the rotary all pulled today. Started prepping my suby to go in. Hope to test fit today but didn't get that far. Only had my son helping & not enough muscle to pull the suby off the stand. So I will get it bolted to the transmision when I get a helper over some night this week. Then I can test fit it some. I am going to reuse the engine mount that was made for my rotary.

I need to make a little aluminum cover for where the tranny meets the motor/adapter plate. I don't want a road debris kicking up in there. Couple pics below including one of the heater core setup someone made for my rotary setup.


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Posted by: roadster fan Mar 13 2011, 12:57 PM

Looking good Jamie!

Jim

Posted by: JRust Mar 15 2011, 10:33 PM

Made a little progress. Got the tranny bolted up & am test fitting the motor. I've got the tranny bolted in the stock location. The motor is sitting on the engine bar I used on the rotary. Had to stop for the night but it is in place. Well sorta depends on how the rear shift linkage sits. With it sitting with the tranny in the stock spot. The intake will need a cutout in the rear trunk as it sits to close. I know some guys have flipped the intake so that isn't a problem. That creates other issues though so I'd like to keep it stock.

I am considering using my renegade hybrids tranny adapters. They move the tranny back an inch & a half. I could do the opposite. By moving it forward an inch & a half. Using the engine bar made for my rotary I could do that with no problem. The exhaust will take the most customizing I think. I'll get the linkage on thursday night & have a better idea of how the headers will have to go. In that picture it looks like they may be okay. As long as they are up high enough & cross over right behind the oil pan.


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Posted by: sawtooth Mar 15 2011, 10:56 PM

Looks like it belongs there, keep up the good work!

Posted by: JRust Mar 17 2011, 10:09 PM

I put the rear linkage on. Wanted to see where it sat to get an idea on what I'm going to do for exhaust. Anyone know if I went dual exhaust back & only used an o2 sensor on one side.
Would it cause a problem?
Or should the pipes come together with the o2 sensor after?

I am going to need to flip the intake. Which will mean relocating the alternator to the a/c spot. Anyone know of an aftermarket mount made for that. Probably have to be a custom job. With the amount of suby conversions out there I would think someone might make one

I also need to keep the motor up at least this high. If I go lower my water outlet will be a problem with the linkage.


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Posted by: arkitect Mar 17 2011, 11:39 PM

Jamie,
Looking good. You've done alot of work with converting from your rotary to a suby, you're going to be an expert at putting different engines in the teener.

Dave

Posted by: sawtooth Mar 18 2011, 12:51 AM

Hey Jamie, measured the obx header for you tonight. On the drivers side, right at the exhaust ports it drops straight down 5", then straight back for 12" (measured from the rear exhaust port stud) then crosses over behind the oil pan to join up with the right side. Hope that helps.
The position of the motor looks great if it can sit up that high and not have clearance issues at the top then it should be fine. All the better to have more clearance down below with the oil pan and exhaust.

Dean

Posted by: JRust Mar 18 2011, 12:27 PM

Thanks for measuring that Dean. I think that will probably catch the linkage when it wraps the oil tank to meet. I'll check again before I drop it. I'll be pulling it to do the intake swap. Looks like there is a mount or 2 out there a couple companies make. Probably just end up fabbing something though. Do I need to have a tensioner there too? Or is just a straight 5 rib belt adjusted tight okay?

Posted by: sawtooth Mar 18 2011, 12:57 PM

You should be able to use the stock alternator bracket, just mount the alternator on the opposite side where the a/c compressor goes, but use the same pivot bolt as original. This will flip the alternator over which causes the wiring to be on bottom but may not be a problem. Then you would just need a bar with a slot in it, attached to the head somewhere that would bolt to the adjuster side of the alternator to hold the tension. That's how I was going to try to do it. So no, you wouldn't need a roller type tensioner, just a way to hold the tension like the stock alt. mount.
- Dean

Posted by: JRust Mar 18 2011, 01:25 PM

Excellent! Yeah I didn't figure to buy the bracket. The one I found was like $300 . I'll rig something up. I saw one on Nasioc that a guy did welding the stock tensioner to a piece he bolted on. I can figure it out on'ce I have it out again. Going to build a quick dolly for the motor to roll around on too. DOn't have one that works quit right with the damn oil pan . I also need to get the ass end of my car a little higher. Struggled a bit getting it under for the test fit. Another foot would be great

Posted by: JRust Mar 18 2011, 07:25 PM

I chatted with Brittain today for a few & picked his brain. I was reading his thread & he got a alternator relocation bracket from Outfront. He said it was $125 & included the belt. Only catch is it's not on their website. So I called to see about getting one. The $125 is for a chromed on. I can get the unfinished for $95 which is what I did. I'll just paint it flat black as I don't care about bling with this motor.

Posted by: IM101 Mar 18 2011, 08:27 PM

Wow Jamie your really making headway, I would love to get a chance to come see it. Heck since Im on spring break if u needed an extra hand just say the word, it prolly help me get even more exited about my yet to be started swap In anycase glad to see the project is coming together so well.

Posted by: strawman Mar 18 2011, 08:45 PM

I cut and welded up the stock alternator mount in order the rotate the intake 180 degrees on my EJ22T. Below are some pictures, after I powdercoated the mount. However, I'm a little worried that the alignment might not be "100% perfect" and could chew up belts.







Basically, I cut off the back half of the stock mount to clear the IAC valve, welded on the lower alternator mount (you can see the long bolt goes through the two lower ears) and an ear on upper portion of mount for the top alternator mounting.

It is rock solid, and even tho I hacked off a big chunk of metal for clearance, it still weighs a ton! But this setup will let me use the stock Suby belt tensioner, spaced out to use the outer groove of the crank pulley. I'd like to see a pic of the Outfront one when you receive it.

The pic below shows the mock-up of the intake, before I powdercoated the alternator mount last weekend.



In the background of the pics above, you can see the custom Porsche 911 / Subaru axle, using inner Suby CVs and 930 CVs (108mm). I had the 911 axles cut down and resplined by Dutchman Axles to fit the Suby inner CVs. I probably need to update my build thread...

Geoff

Posted by: JRust Mar 18 2011, 09:23 PM

Heck yeah Ian your welcome to come down. I will be pulling it all back out monday or tuesday night after work. Then I'll be pulling the alternator, a/c & the intake. I'll get the intake flipped & that is probably it.

Geoff that looks pretty good to me. I would have most likely done something similar. After finding the one from Outfront I knew I'd be much better off forking out the $100. I will get you a picture once I get it. I'm hoping they get it out quick. I probably wasn't early enough in the day for it to go out today. Hopefully it will go out monday

Posted by: JRust Mar 20 2011, 05:50 PM

Okay just measured & the linkage bar sits right at 5" below the head. Looks like I will have to use Outfronts primary tubes. That or just an overall custom job. I may just get some stock suby exhaust from a junk yard & see about cutting it up some?

The other question is if I just go dual exhaust all the way back. Can I run an o2 sensor on one side & be okay? Or do the piped need to join with the o2 sensor after they meet?


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Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 20 2011, 05:55 PM

You should be fine IF... The engine is fuel injected and uses the factory ECU. You can run an aftermarket ecu too but the tune will be a tiny bit more critical. You don't have a turbo... You will be fine with dual exhaust.

Posted by: JRust Mar 20 2011, 08:30 PM

Yeah stock ECU & FI. That will help with my exhaust. One less thing I need to worry about.

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 20 2011, 08:37 PM

I would put O2 bungs on both sides. Use one for the ECU and the other for a wide band O2 sensor and gauge. sometimes one side of the engine can be leaner than the other. find which side is leaner with the WB and put the sensor there. You can then dial the fuel pressure up slightly to make is better. Use the rich bung for the ECU.

Posted by: jmill Mar 21 2011, 05:59 PM

Nice work. Where is Budman5201? He's done a bunch of Suby swaps, turbo and N/A. I think he graduated to a Suby 6 now. If you have any unanswered questions I'd PM him.

Posted by: JRust Mar 22 2011, 12:39 PM

I made some progress last night. Thanks Ian for coming down to help. Going to work out great as he is going to come back later this week & weld my suspension ear for my v8 car .

So we pulled the motor back out. Unbolted the tranny & got the intake taken off. I'm waiting from the alternator relocation bracket to come before reinstalling the intake. Not sure of it's setup & don't want to pull the intake again. Hopefully I will get it today or tommorow. I also need to add a washer behind the clutch fork ball. I noticed when I installed the tranny there wasn't enough travel in the clutch fork. Damned if I have a socket that will fit in there. I can't get it with a wrench either. Anyone have a special trick I can try?

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Mar 22 2011, 12:46 PM

I have a deep well socket for a 1/4 drive that fits in there fine. The 1/4 inch drive stuff is allot thinner that the larger drive sockets.

If you need any thing for the Subaru outfront has all kinds of things they really need to put what they have on the web page.



Bob

Posted by: computers4kids Mar 22 2011, 09:16 PM

Jamie,
Just take a socket and grind the wall down until its thin enough to fit.

I can't believe how many fun projects you have, especially this one.
Good Luck,
Mark

Posted by: JRust Mar 23 2011, 10:45 AM

Just to bad WCR is south of me. Otherwise you could come up early like Issiquah & help me get ready . I will admit that this suby swap is fun. Not all my projects have been that fun

Posted by: JRust Apr 2 2011, 04:04 PM

Ran into a problem flipping the intake. I ordered Outfront's alternator relocation bracket. Put it on & bolted the alternator in place. Then I went to put the intak back on flipped but it won't go. There is a part with hoses coming off the intake that hits the alternator. Even outfront said there would be no issue. So I need to figure out what I need to change.I need a good inch to an inch & a half. Unless that part on the intake isn't used . Any thoughts?


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Posted by: strawman Apr 2 2011, 06:51 PM

I'm in the Dulles airport, so I can't walk to my garage to confirm... but I'm pretty sure that is the Idle Air Control valve. It's primary purpose is to bump up the idle when the AC compressor kicks in & to otherwise smooth out the idle. It's location forced me to modify my alt bracket; I want to at least get my Suby engine running in the car with all factory sensors.

Geoff

Posted by: JRust Apr 2 2011, 07:12 PM

So if you aren't running a/c can it come off?

Posted by: sawtooth Apr 3 2011, 12:12 AM

Yeah that's definitely the IAC. It is also for cold starts, or any time the computer wants to adjust the idle. The computer will throw a code without it, I don't think it will cause any other problems.

Stupid question, but are you sure the alternator is in the right position? I haven't seen the outfront bracket in person, but from pic #2 it looks like the alternator is still in the center of the motor. I would have thought it would be flipped over, on the drivers side of the motor, which would give more room for the throttle body?

Posted by: JRust Apr 3 2011, 12:39 PM

Here is a pic with the alternator in place. The intake is just sitting below it on the floor. Without the AIR on there & just a plate blocking it would work there. Otherwise I will need to have the alternator in a different spot . I think I will call outfront on monday & ask. They said I would have no problems flippping the intake. Not sure how different the years on intakes were. Maybe they thought I had the ej25DOHC intake. I did tell them I had an ej25 with ej22 heads. Not sure I told them it was an ej22 intake


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Posted by: sawtooth Apr 3 2011, 10:56 PM

Ok, that looks right from that angle. I bet outfront will say to just remove the IAC and build a block-off plate for it.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 4 2011, 09:33 AM

Build two block off plates. Mount the IAC remotely and connect to the manifold with two hoses. Problem solved.

I am doing a similar job on my Rotary. I removed the IAC, drilled and tapped the block off plate. I am using a Haltech IAC that is remotely mounted with 2 hoses back to the block off plate.

All the IAC does is regulate the ammount of air bypassing the throttle plate. There by maintaining idle.

Posted by: Ductech Apr 4 2011, 12:42 PM

Hey J rust I guess i'll throw my .02 cents at you. I built a bracket similar to what you bought. that bracket is basically a stock subaru bracket with oem belt tensioner off the ac side of the system. I built mine so the alternator would sit up a couple inches higher thusly allowing the use of the iac. I would suggest keeping the iac unless your going over to a megasquirt or other aftermarket tuning device. Iac works well with the stock FI computer. helps make it so your motor always tries to maintain its idle speed. great for those northwest winter mornings..... If your up to fab some i would say mod that bracket you bought or the one that came on the motor and make it better.... dont let outfront force you to get rid of more oem FI components.

Posted by: JRust Apr 4 2011, 06:44 PM

Yeah I took the alternator off. I am going to get the intake back on then see where it needs to sit. I'd rather keep the AIR in it's stock spot. Looks like some of the hard fuel line is hitting the water shroud on top also. Guess the intake flip isn't such a simple thing . Half tempted to just cut the hole in the trunk to rout it & keep it stock. I'll keep trying to get it figured this week. If I'm still having trouble I'll just put it back & cut the hole to route it.

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Apr 4 2011, 07:44 PM

I left the intake mounted to the rear. this way I could use my AC compessor in the stock location. A car without AC down here is almost unusable in the summer.
Thats what my car is down for now adding, AC and a few other things

Bob

Posted by: Ductech Apr 4 2011, 07:56 PM

As bigkat states its about what you plan for the future too. I dont like cutting up the car if possible so i switched the intake around. the Fuel lines only need to be bent slightly to clear the water neck. I think its better in the long run to flip it but that is my opinion. I wouldn't take my word as the allmighty answer my conversion just got running the other day and has about 20 miles on it.... im finding problems that come with a chassis that hasn't rolled down the road in ten years more than problems with my motor install.

Good luck and trust me i love the acceleration and smoothness of this motor setup.

Posted by: JRust Apr 5 2011, 10:29 PM

I messed with it some more tonight. Yeah the fuel lines bend a little & no problem there. Still am hitting a post on the bottom of tha manifold. It hits one of the bolts on the water line. Also the oil feeler kneck wants to hang up that side too. I think it will be fine once it is bolted in place. Just the more I mess with it the more problems I seem to run into. I am more tempted to just put it back stock & cut the hole in the trunk I need. Just frustrated some tonight

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Apr 6 2011, 12:01 AM

Work the bugs out Jamie! I have a line (was told yesterday) on a couple of WRX motors. I don't know what year but STI was also thrown around. I just may change from a 6 conversion to a Subie. When I hear more I will be calling you.

Posted by: ch914er Apr 13 2011, 10:02 AM

Hi Bob,

are there any pics or documentation on your car????

I want to swap a 3,3 in my 914 too

Greetings Chris

Posted by: BIGKAT_83 Apr 13 2011, 11:25 AM

PM sent...........

Bob

Posted by: JRust Apr 13 2011, 01:52 PM

Okay I haven't worked on it much. I will be some tommorow night. I will either have the intake on flipped or put back to stock. Either way I have stalled long enough. Funny how seemingly little things can stall things for a month

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 13 2011, 06:13 PM

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Apr 13 2011, 08:57 PM

Cant be any worse than what I was just told. I was trying to do my own valve adjustment for the first time about a week ago. I finally got as close as I could but it still ran crappy, like it was running on 3 cylinders. So I took it to a garage that had worked on it before. He told me today that number 4 is dead! No compression. He put a little oil down the hole and the compression registered but no cigar.

So, no car for me at WCR! This sucks!!!! So Lola will go back in the garage, put up on jackstands, motor and trans pulled and the mild resto will begin!

Will be looking for 2.0 stuff!

Posted by: JRust Apr 13 2011, 10:19 PM

Dude you have a motor. I bet it has better compresion that the one in your car. I'm sure it leaks but you can get it in for a temporary fix.

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Apr 13 2011, 10:26 PM

Two quarts of water poured out of that motor along with the oil. It's sitting on the pallet covered by a tarp and snow, with Trans oil and diesel fuel in it right now. When the snow melts, I will put it on the stand and start dissecting.

Posted by: JRust Apr 16 2011, 09:16 PM

I finally got the intake swapped. It's temporarily bolted in place. Going to have to build a different mount for the alternator so I can keep the AIR. Basically just moving it further to the right. Not a ton of progress there but it was something


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Posted by: hot_shoe914 Apr 16 2011, 09:20 PM

The status on the V8?

Posted by: JRust Apr 17 2011, 09:20 AM

It's coming along nicely! Suspension ear is finally back in. I just need to clean up the battery tray area. Prime it & repaint (just keeping it black like before). I'll be working on it all week. Then the drivetrain goes back in .

Back to the suby though. Ian is making me a new alternator mount. The adjust ment piece to it I think we may put in the engine bay. The alternator is flipped over on the drivers side. It will be a pain to manufacture the piece needed for the adjustment coming off the motor. Ian had the idea of once in place it would be east to add one coming off the car. Makes sense & will be simple. So this is on the agenda for next weekend.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 17 2011, 09:30 AM

Jamie, This thread needs more pictures. Keep up the good work!

Posted by: IM101 Apr 22 2011, 06:42 PM

Done and done! I may be able to spin by and drop it off tonight. Ill let you know Jamie... but in the mean time, an example of how to extend a bracket while maintaining its alignment.

Posted by: JRust Apr 22 2011, 07:47 PM

Excellent! That will work great