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Posted by: stugray Nov 21 2010, 02:45 PM

So I dropped the motor and what do I see?:



Can I just re-weld this, or do I need to remove the whole piece and put in a new one?

I suppose I should do both sides while I am at it?

Any suggestions?

Stu

Posted by: Travis Neff Nov 21 2010, 03:07 PM

I wouldn't weld it back up, replace it. Trouble is that is your driver's side which I am not sure if there are replacements available new (so you may need ot have someone cut one out of a parts car for you)

Posted by: Andyrew Nov 21 2010, 03:10 PM

New Piece, Do Both..

Posted by: Eric_Shea Nov 21 2010, 03:46 PM

Check CFR for a repair piece I believe. Search is your friend (but not very friendly). There's a few threads on this.

Good luck. Lucky you found it before it snapped off.

Posted by: brant Nov 21 2010, 03:59 PM

Stu,

its common on track cars
there is a 914 guru in grand junction that can sell you a fab kit to brace this (or Chris sells really good stuff too!)

make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment after putting in a new console to verify its still within adjustable range

I've ripped my passenger side out 2x before I learned about the brace kit...
I ripped a brand new one out within 1 year. You need the bracing with race tires. I've not seen a driver side rip before.

You can buy a replacement console (at least you used to be able to buy them) very available.

brant

Posted by: stugray Nov 21 2010, 04:56 PM

OK replace then.

I have a plasma cutter & MIG welder.
Is the piece removed by drilling out spot welds, chiseling, or cut (sawzall/plasma)?

Brant, Is this the same piece as I see here (obviously this is passenger side):



If so, it looks different.... what did you change other than the extra support (that I might as well do while I'm in there with a welder ;-)


Also, anyone have an link for the replacement parts?

Who is Chris?, how do I contact this person in Grand Junction?
Stu

Posted by: brant Nov 21 2010, 05:10 PM

That picture is a fab mount, but with the -4cylinder motor mount attatchments removed (6cylinder cars attatch the motor at the firewall instead of sides)

the 6 is a wider motor and the extra brace has to be more outward and straight front to back

-4cylinder motor will allow a brace with some angle as the motor size is different.

you need to leave your -4cylinder motor mount bar attatchment points. So one more thing to work around when you replace the console.


Chris is:
chris foley racing
or tangerine racing

Grand junction is AJRS
they don't have a web site
there is an ajrs in california that is different and probably has a web site. AJRS in grand junction is a one man guru. No parts sales, no websites. A race shop that specializes in porsche and 914s

Posted by: Eric_Shea Nov 21 2010, 05:14 PM

Brant has a brace similar to this one:



Chris has those too.

CFR is here:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Nov 21 2010, 05:26 PM

The broken suspension console was such a common problem that the old Perfect Panels began making them almost the day after the cars rolled off the assembly line. Most of it was because owners were unaware of the acid leaking battery and therefore did nothing about it until one day when the bottom of the tire was leaning out. We back then repaired many that insurance companies would actually cover the costs!!!!!! W\Years later we bought the company when the owner died so now make them and STILL sell many.. We also install them so if you need some advice, do not hesitate to call or e mail Sean in our service department.

Posted by: pktzygt Nov 21 2010, 07:04 PM

I'm in the middle of mine. It's time consuming to cut it out carefully. But I'm jealous because I don't have a plasma cutter. I'm doing a new console from George and a reinforcement from Chris.

Posted by: stugray Nov 21 2010, 07:08 PM

Ok, I'm game.

Credit card in hand....

I dont see these parts on the CFR website or the AA catalog.

First person to actually give me a link will probably have an order.

My brother (welder-extraordinaire ;-) will be spending time here this weekend, and I would weld them in this week if I can get the parts before thursday.

Powcon spray MIG and plasma cutter waiting at the ready

Stu

Posted by: brant Nov 21 2010, 07:19 PM

[url=http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit]brace[/url] You need a spot weld removing drill bit
about 3 extra replacement tips
and about 6 hours of time to drill them and remove everything cleanly
the plasma cutter is probably too agressive of a tool

here are reinforcements
restoration design should have the console..


http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#RearPickupPointsReinforcingKit

Posted by: stugray Nov 21 2010, 08:58 PM

So if I get the "Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit"

AND the "Inner Console Reinforcements", I can fix this and still stay legal?

Stu

Posted by: mepstein Nov 21 2010, 09:10 PM

I would think you should replace the console and not just weld metal over the failed part. They tend to rust from the inside out (like everything else on our cars) That's why they can look good right up to the day they fail. I bought one for the passenger side from resto design last summer. Scotty B should be doing the install soon. Mark

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 21 2010, 09:31 PM

Call RD and ask them if they have the drivers side suspension console.
http://www.restoration-design.com/


If not, i would get one from someone's west coast parts car ...

Posted by: brant Nov 21 2010, 11:38 PM

shouldn't be a problem
the older car rules (pre-73) say braces that bolt in are legal.
I haven't read the 1981 rules cover to cover... but the same should be fine
I have a turnbuckle style in mine and its "bolt in"

I have a turnbuckle (bolt in) in my 4cylinder car also...
I always remove them when pulling the motor to clear the tinwork.
brant

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Nov 22 2010, 09:41 AM

http://www.autoatlanta.com/detail.php?PartNumber=B91450104411&serial_number=7502

Posted by: stugray Nov 22 2010, 09:52 AM

Thanks for the link - $211 ea. - OUCH!.

How about the drivers side?
For that much, I'll probably replace the driver's side then just strengthen both sides.

Stu

Posted by: Phoenix-MN Nov 22 2010, 10:13 AM

Just a heads up on prevenative maintenance. There are many stamped drains located throughout the body sheetmetal. Be sure the one circled in red is clear or the the mount will rust from the inside out

Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 22 2010, 10:27 AM

IMO its a very fair price for that piece.
There is no such part for the left side though.
I've repaired these before, probably even posted pics here.
Replacement is a sizable project. My recommendation is to carefully dig into what you have - to see if the heavy corrosion (on the inside) can be cut out and replaced without removing the entire console from the chassis.
After you fix the rot, my inner console reinforcing pieces and heim rod braces will ensure it never happens again.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Inner%20Console%20Reinforcements

http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm#Rear%20Pickup%20Points%20Reinforcing%20Kit

Posted by: Eric_Shea Nov 22 2010, 10:30 AM

Restoration design has the console for $199.00 (item #10)

http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=914

CFR has the strengthening panels for $25.00 a pair "flat" or $50.00 molded.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/chassis.htm

Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 22 2010, 10:37 AM

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 22 2010, 12:18 PM

I'm pretty sure that's the passenger side. He needs the drivers side ...

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Nov 22 2010, 12:34 PM

We have a used drivers side on e bay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230552891430&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT#ht_500wt_956 (much better than it looks!!!)

Posted by: sixnotfour Nov 22 2010, 02:25 PM

The one on ebay is not worth the time to remove it from the rest of the rust. out west is were you need to source one from Slits throws em away weekly.


George I have 5 of those ears I will trade you for 1 GT headlight kit.

Posted by: stugray Nov 22 2010, 04:44 PM

sixnotfour,

I did a search for "slits", but didnt find one. Do you have a link?
If you have the ear I need, I will buy one from you.
Stu

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 22 2010, 05:19 PM

Click on the "Members" link on the top, type in "Slits" in the search box and click on the result to see his profile.

You can send him an email or PM from there ...

Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 22 2010, 06:24 PM

Aren't you a little late to the AA bashing party?

One of our customers bought a "rust free" roller from a well known vendor in California and we ended up doing a couple thousand dollars of rust repair. The rust was not free after all.

The console section George posted a link to actually looks like it could be a good piece once you clean off the exterior surface rust. What matters is on the inside. Looking at the motor mount, I see no evidence of bulging in the center that would be a clear sign of the car being left in the rain many times. That's something we've found on many 914 chassis' which otherwise seemed pretty good.

Posted by: sixnotfour Nov 23 2010, 05:19 AM

It is a genuine offer.

The west coast aint perfect , But this aint good enough for $112


Attached image(s)

Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 23 2010, 09:41 AM

Fair enough. My apologies if the comment was out of line.

I hadn't noticed the notch you pointed out. However, the resolution of the picture is insufficient to tell why it's there. I've seen some pretty bad consoles and have never seen that drain rotted away as the picture may appear to suggest.
Also, the ebay auction says 6 available, so the one pictured may not be what arrives after making a purchase.

Posted by: stugray Nov 27 2010, 12:58 PM

Ok, thanks for all the replies and offers for a used console.

Since mine is relatively rust free I decided to try to fix it before replacing.
We cut out the crack, jacked it back into place, inserted a backup plate and rewelded.

Next I will get the reinforcement plates from CFR and then add the stiffening brackets like the previous posters showed on page 1.

Is this better? :



I will seam weld everything I can find while I am under there.
Powcon spray mig ......


Question: Do these bars interfere with the valve covers?



I already have the engine out, so it is hard to tell if I will be able to get the valve covers off....

Stu

Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 27 2010, 03:23 PM

They do not interfere with the valve covers.

Posted by: Steve Dec 29 2011, 11:26 AM

Sorry for the hijack, but do the bars interfere with the heater tubes on six heat exchangers?

Posted by: SGB Dec 29 2011, 11:46 AM

Oh man, Chris's reinforcement kit look like Da Bomb. My busted suspension mount was replaced with one fabbed up at the time 15 years ago. I'm sure to need to redo it sometime after I get the smashage repaired. Don't stop making those Chris. One of these days...

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Dec 29 2011, 01:55 PM

I installed Chris' reinforcement kit in anticipation of more HP and torque. Well made and easy to install.

Posted by: stugray Dec 29 2011, 02:24 PM

I just finished the entire engine bay this last weekend.

I need to clean up some overspray & I will post pictures.
It looks like a different car.

Stu

Posted by: 914Eric Nov 20 2012, 11:24 AM

Posted by: rdauenhauer Nov 20 2012, 09:19 PM

Looks like Im a bit late to this party, but having done a few of these myself, Id renew the caution that the rust is most likely from inside out & you might want to poke around a bit more before respraying it.
this looked solid prior to smacking it with a hammer a couple times.

Posted by: Van914 Nov 21 2012, 05:57 AM

I have one of Chris's kits without the removable bar for sale. $250 delivered in the Cont. U.S.
Thanks
Van914

Posted by: edwin Nov 21 2012, 06:14 AM

Does anyone look at post dates these days?