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Posted by: tpines Nov 22 2010, 01:32 PM

Hi Guys,
I have a '74 2.0 that has original FI and runs very well. However, after a hour drive or so, the car will not start for about 10 minutes or until it cools down. I have replaced the starter and voltage regulator but still the same problem persists. I have heard of relocating the fuel pump to the front in order to prevent vapor lock but have not tried this yet. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...

Clark.

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Nov 22 2010, 01:53 PM

Voltage drop means to add the wr1 bosch hot start kit.

Posted by: Tom Nov 22 2010, 01:57 PM

You need to describe the problem a little better. Is it cranking but not firing, or just not cranking until cooler?
Tom

Posted by: tpines Nov 22 2010, 02:00 PM

It's not cranking nor firing at all. There is noise from the starter but it doesn't crank or fire...

Posted by: Root_Werks Nov 22 2010, 02:05 PM

Of the........35+ 914's I've owned, never needed a hot start kit.

Check your grounds, replace the ignition switch, check terminal connections from source to end for starter.

You should be fine.

Posted by: tpines Nov 22 2010, 02:10 PM

Thanks alot; I will take that advice to heart and check it all!

Clark.

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 22 2010, 02:19 PM

While i can certainly see the benefit of adding a relay to the starter circuit, the hot start kit is a band-aid, not a solution for your problem.

Find the problem and fix it. Then think about adding a relay to the starter ...

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 22 2010, 02:23 PM

If the starter doesn't turn over, vapor lock is *not* your problem.
Vapor lock means the fuel pump is trying to pump vapors instead of liquid.

You need two things for vapor lock:

- Heat. And a lot of it. The fuel in your pump and lines needs to boil and turn into vapor.

- A working, cranking starter.

Posted by: Tom_T Nov 22 2010, 03:19 PM

Clark, it hasn't been hot enough here in SoCal over the past couple of weeks for it to be a vapor lock problem.
I agree with the others' advice above on your electrical items (don't forget to check the flat ground strap/connections from the top of the transaxle to the rear trunk underside).

That said, here in SoCal/Southwest the fuel pump relocation is a good idea for long drives in 90+ degree days, unless you like sitting in a Denny's for 3 hours waiting for it to cool down (I did in Blythe on the way to the CO River once on a 110 day, then had mine relocated & not a problem after that). Porsche relocated them on 75-76 MY 914s to a cubby-hole under the fuel tank accessed from the front trunk, & issued a service bulletin for a relo to the front for 70-74 MY's.

AA sells a FP relo kit & the factory bulletin locates it on the front lower bulkhead next to the center tunnel access hole where the fuel lines daylight, which is up behind the steering rack & accessed by removing the steering rack underbelly cover. Wiring for power can be run along behind the passenger side rocker cover, or through the tunnel if you're really ambitious.

Here are pix of mine done back in the late 70's -

FP location after relo -




FP wiring along passenger rocker space for relo -

Posted by: vwsamba Nov 22 2010, 06:14 PM

super easy and cheap on a 914 to also add a remote starter button under the seat directly wired to the starter solenoid

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 22 2010, 07:02 PM

TomT; it looks like the pump is exposed to road grime. Is there a cover or am I looking at it wrong?

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 22 2010, 07:24 PM

Better be as he's missing the rear bolts to hold his cross-member in place!!!

I really hope the pan (and bolts) were only removed to take pictures ...