Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: pete000 Nov 24 2010, 04:58 PM

I know this relay was involved in the seat switches, which mine is by passed, but does it run anything else on the car?

Was there a smaller relay next to it?

Mine does not seem to have the smaller one.

Thanks




Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Nov 24 2010, 05:03 PM

large is the interlock the small is the buzzer.

Posted by: dr914@autoatlanta.com Nov 24 2010, 05:04 PM

your yellow and yellow with red leads have not been connected together (factory bypass) so you will have to keep your relay plugged in.

Posted by: jim_hoyland Nov 25 2010, 02:20 PM

I have one in my '75 and it was bypassed. I'ed like to know how they were wired and worked. Is there anything out there that explains how each of the terminals function ?

Posted by: bembry Dec 22 2010, 08:04 PM

Per George's reply: What is the interlock? All I had ever heard of was the buzzer.

Posted by: mepstein Dec 22 2010, 08:34 PM

I would like to know how to remove it permanently.

Posted by: championgt1 Dec 22 2010, 08:35 PM

Without the seatbelts fastened the car would not start. This worked in conjunction with the buzzer and the fasten seat belt light.

Posted by: bembry Dec 22 2010, 08:39 PM

Is there a difference per each model year?

Do all years have the buzzer? The Interlock?

Posted by: championgt1 Dec 22 2010, 08:42 PM

Good question. For sure 74 and later. Not sure about earlier cars.

Posted by: jt914-6 Dec 22 2010, 08:45 PM

Unplug and remove it. Connect the two large yellow wires together. One solid yellow and the other yellow with red stripe. Take a test light and check the smaller wires for 12v with the key on. I have one black wire that hot with the key on. Seal the one (s) that are hot against grounding.

As far as I know that system was only used on the '74-76...My '74 had it on it.

Posted by: r_towle Dec 22 2010, 09:14 PM

Make a small male male 8 gauge wire about 2 inches long.
Unplug and remove the logic circuit box (its not a relay) and plug the male ends of your new jumper wire into the yellow/yellow red wires.

Rich

Posted by: Jeff Bowlsby Dec 22 2010, 09:55 PM

You need the double male connector.




Attached image(s)

Posted by: mepstein Dec 22 2010, 10:19 PM

What about all the other (under the seat) wires? I would like to delete as much as I can. Thanks, mark

Posted by: r_towle Dec 22 2010, 10:23 PM

I had my father (retired EE) reverse engineer this thing a few years back...maybe more than a few.
I posted the diagram here (club/world prior to break)
I no longer have the diagram...it may be here.

Its all useless stuff...
Its all related to the seats pressure sensors, the seatbelt latch sensors, and the door opening light switch/sensor, and all of that starts a buzzer (which needs power) and lights up a light on the dash( which also gets power)
the rest of the wires are grounds.

Rich

Posted by: Eric_Shea Dec 22 2010, 11:54 PM

I want mine gone to... I'd love to dredge up Rich's thread. It should be here somewhere.

Posted by: sixnotfour Dec 23 2010, 01:23 AM

From Blowsby, Rich has posts here also;
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=41066&st=25
Dave Darling;
The only power-in on the relay is on the following terminals:
15 (black wire) constant power.
L (yellow/red wire) switched power--after it goes through the warning light.
C (yellow wire) power when the key is in "start" only.
H (grey/yellow wire) switched power, which runs the "door ajar" buzzer



Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: rdauenhauer Dec 23 2010, 11:43 AM

Another classic thread resource!

Posted by: dflesburg Dec 23 2010, 12:14 PM

I agree, re-wire that crap.

Posted by: Drums66 Dec 23 2010, 12:43 PM

...All I had ever heard was the buzzer
(most people bypass....do what you like?)

Posted by: flipb Dec 23 2010, 02:22 PM

FWIW, My '74 still has the interlock. I think it's kind of charming or something. Although annoying when all you want to do is test something that requires a running engine.

It's a little strange how it works, and it may be due to some loose connections, but here's what I've found:

1. The car won't start unless the driver's belt is buckled.
2. If there's a passenger in the RH seat (pressure sensor), the car won't start unless both belts are buckled. (In my car, this one is sporadic - sometimes works unbuckled)
3. The seat belt latch has to have a pretty solid connection. I've had to unbuckle/rebuckle to get it to work on occasion.
4. This is the one that confuses me - When I have to start the engine a few times in a row, I've tried to buckle the belt without being in the car; just across the seatback. Then I sit down on top of belt so that I can clutch/brake and turn the key... and it doesn't work! Somehow it knows I'm faking and I've had to unbuckle, put the seatbelt on correctly, and buckle before the engine will start.

Supposedly, there's some sort of bypass... holding the key to "start" for several seconds, or trying several times in a row... i just can't remember what it is.

Posted by: jt914-6 Dec 24 2010, 05:58 AM

The "bypass" is give it the "float test"......then connect the yellow's together.....