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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Remove Engine
Posted by: badboybear Feb 2 2011, 11:57 AM
[size=3]How high do I need jack the car up to take the engine out from the bottom? Does anyone have a diagram for removing the engine....what bolts & where to remove, want to drop tranny & motor at once...hopefully.
Also where do I look or go to get a "repair kit" for the HELL HOLE. Told there is a metal replacment type piece? Thanks all,
M&T914
Posted by: Scarlet75 Feb 2 2011, 12:04 PM
Go to914 info at thhe top and click on Tech articles. Thats how I dropped mine good luck 
Posted by: toon1 Feb 2 2011, 12:09 PM
I don't know the excact height but it's in the 18" range. Depending o the jack or dolly that you are going to use to set the engine on will determine the height.
most of the bolts and nuts will be 10-14 mm. with the exception of the main motor mount and the trans. mount bolts which are 17mmIIRC.
The motor is not difficult to remove, just make sure everything is disconnected and it will drop right down.
with NO experience at doing this, it's about a 2.5 hour job.
For the seasoned "pro" 45min to an 1.5 hours alone.
Posted by: tradisrad Feb 2 2011, 12:17 PM
While I dont have an exact height to jack the car up to I can offer some tips.
Disconnect fuel lines, clutch & throttle cables, battery, CVs (they dont need to be removed but must pass over the engine) & trans ground strap + any misc wiring the engine may have & any emission hoses.
1st dont raise the car so high that your jack wont reach the eng/trans.
2nd it is helpful to remove the air cleaner and injectors (injectors may catch on the suspension "ears")
3rd drop it as a package eng/trans
I place a 3/4" thick piece of plywood on the jack and center it near the fly wheel, maybe slightly forward. It is helpful to have a friend or two during the removal process, however it can be done solo.
Check Auto Atlanta or Restoration Design for you replacement parts.
With some experience the engine can be removed in an hour and a half to two hours (or less time in some garages)
I find it easier to disconnect the trans mounts instead of the nuts off of the 2 mounting bolts.
Good luck, it's only scary the first time.
Posted by: badboybear Feb 2 2011, 12:27 PM
While I dont have an exact height to jack the car up to I can offer some tips.
Disconnect fuel lines, clutch & throttle cables, battery, CVs (they dont need to be removed but must pass over the engine) & trans ground strap + any misc wiring the engine may have & any emission hoses.
1st dont raise the car so high that your jack wont reach the eng/trans.
2nd it is helpful to remove the air cleaner and injectors (injectors may catch on the suspension "ears")
3rd drop it as a package eng/trans
I place a 3/4" thick piece of plywood on the jack and center it near the fly wheel, maybe slightly forward. It is helpful to have a friend or two during the removal process, however it can be done solo.
Check Auto Atlanta or Restoration Design for you replacement parts.
With some experience the engine can be removed in an hour and a half to two hours (or less time in some garages)
I find it easier to disconnect the trans mounts instead of the nuts off of the 2 mounting bolts.
Good luck, it's only scary the first time.
Thanks & yes scared...sort of, not like getting married...LOL. I will also check out the tech articles and the other places mentioned. Appreciate all very much....stay tuned I know I'm gonna bust a knuckle...OUCH!
Posted by: tradisrad Feb 2 2011, 12:44 PM
Nah, no blood required.
Check your CV bolts; they should be a 12pt (triple square) socket, although they may have been replaced with the incorrect regular Allen socket. This is a "special" tool that you may need.
Posted by: stugray Feb 2 2011, 01:30 PM
Oh.... AND drain the oil FIRST ;-)
I used to be able to do the whole job in 1 hour with a carb engine.
FI is just a little more complicated.
Stu
Posted by: badboybear Feb 2 2011, 02:16 PM
Oh.... AND drain the oil FIRST ;-)
I used to be able to do the whole job in 1 hour with a carb engine.
FI is just a little more complicated.
Stu
Thanks guys...really do appreciate it & we'll drain ALL fluids first...lol
Mike
Posted by: Jerry75914 Feb 2 2011, 02:51 PM
There is a good article on the PP site "engine drop made easy". I just used it a few weeks ago on my first engine drop...did it solo, no issues. I did need to get it pretty high up, around 30" with the rear valance removed if I remember right...but I could also have removed more from teh engine first.
Watch out for it getting hung up on the suspension console...it is a REALLY tight fit going down.
be patient, and you'll be fine, good luck!
Posted by: detoxcowboy Feb 2 2011, 02:52 PM
914 Engine Removal Made Easy
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_engine_drop/914_engine_drop.htm
Posted by: jt914-6 Feb 2 2011, 03:47 PM
Don't forget the tranny ground strap..... 
Posted by: stugray Feb 2 2011, 04:22 PM
Oh, and use zip ties or coat hangers to hold the axles up in the air (or take them all the way off) and put sandwich baggies over the CVs or you will end up with grease everywhere.
Trying to work around them is a PITA.
"Don't forget the tranny ground strap...."
Oh, no you can forget it....... it will just tear off or leave the tranny hanging and you wonder "what the heck"..... BTDT
Posted by: badboybear Feb 2 2011, 05:39 PM
914 Engine Removal Made Easy
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_engine_drop/914_engine_drop.htm
Downloaded info and thanks guys...ladies if your out there. I won't forget the tranny ground strap either...hope this works. Things we do to save a buck...lol!!
Posted by: Jeffs9146 Feb 2 2011, 09:17 PM
The higher the better!! 
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Posted by: silver74insocal Feb 2 2011, 10:03 PM
Nah, no blood required.
Check your CV bolts; they should be a 12pt (triple square) socket, although they may have been replaced with the incorrect regular Allen socket. This is a "special" tool that you may need.
WAHT!! all 914's require a blood offering before leaving the jackstands...might as well get it out of the way now
good luck..i have used the pelican method a few times on my own just take your time and check everyhting twice... 
DavePosted by: rohar Feb 2 2011, 10:43 PM
I took 4 1" 16gauge tubes and drilled some holes through them. Just long enough to bolt to the front hubs and keep the disks off the ground.
If you drop the front of the car a bit, you don't have to jack it up as high at the middle of the car. Don't have to use chalks in the front either.
Posted by: SirAndy Feb 2 2011, 10:43 PM
Go to914 info at thhe top and click on Tech articles. Thats how I dropped mine good luck
This was good advice ... It's all here ...
http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php
Posted by: JmuRiz Sep 2 2011, 11:47 AM
Experts, I have a couple of questions:
What are special instructions for cars with carbs?
What are special instructions for using a lift to remove the engine?
Thanks, I may be trying my first engine drop this weekend.
Posted by: jimkelly Sep 2 2011, 12:01 PM
damn scary high for a V8 - slightly less for a 4.
be sure to check the front wheels very well.
and go under as briefly as possible.
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Posted by: JawjaPorsche Sep 2 2011, 12:09 PM
Do I see antifreeze on the driveway? Be sure to keep your dogs away!
damn scary high for a V8 - slightly less for a 4.
be sure to check the front wheels very well.
and go under as briefly as possible.
Posted by: Drums66 Sep 2 2011, 12:12 PM
The higher the better!!
.....Get that Porsche butt.....way-up in the air
Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 2 2011, 07:11 PM
The rear of the car needs to be about 2" higher than it will go with regular jack-stands on the "donuts" and the front wheels on the ground. That's assuming you pull the intake and oil filler off the engine, but forget the dipstick (D'OH!) and have the engine sitting on a floor jack with a piece of wood for a cushion. Then, if you're motivated, you can push the back of the car up a little higher by hand while your buddy pulls the engine the rest of the way out.
If you put the engine down on a dolly, or a piece of wood, or some such, you'll have more clearance.
If you have any question at all about the clearance available, just remove everything from the top of the engine. Carbs, manifolds, distributor, oil filler, dipstick. You need less clearance that way. Make sure to cover the openings so you don't drop dirt or tools or fasteners down into the engine.
--DD
Posted by: Kirmizi Sep 2 2011, 08:06 PM
Having done this recently, I'd suggest taking some pics with a digital camera so you have a reference point for the inevitable "hmm, where'd this go" moments during reassembly.
Mike
Posted by: Vacca Rabite Sep 2 2011, 08:26 PM
High.
I put my jackstands on 4x4 timbers. Make sure the car is stable! Give it a good shake test.
Pulling the engine is not hard. Its easier to raise the car off the engine then to lower the engine out of the car. A lifting plate from Tangereen (Racer Chris here on the boards) makes it easier still.
The first time is intimidating. it gets easier after that. Pulling the engine is not all that hard. Unhooking everything is what is the PITA.
Zach
Posted by: bigkensteele Sep 2 2011, 08:26 PM
I swear by the "threaded rod" method. You get the car up on stands and then put your jack under each side of the engine bar. Remove the nut and bolt and replace with 18" piece of 3/8" threaded bar with a double nut on the top, and a nut with a flat washer on the bottom. Then you put your jack under the end of the tranny. This allows for COMPLETE control of the lowering process at 3 points. AND no problem whatsoever doing it alone. You just loosen the bottom nut on each side incrementally to lower the front of the engine and lower the jack to move the back.
Works just as well to get it back in.
Sure it takes a while to crank down/up all those threads if you use a regular wrench, but I bought a cheap set of ratcheting wrenches from HF, and it is all good.
I lower it straight down onto an HF furniture dolly, and I can wheel it right out.
My problem was getting it up onto an engine stand. Mine was so covered with grime that I was not about to ask a couple of friends to come over and risk a hernia or possible smashed foot to get it up there, so I had to rent an engine hoist. 30 bucks, problem solved in less than an hour. Now that it is all clean, and the chance of dropping it due to hands slipping on grease is greatly diminished, I may lower it back down using the "friend" method.
Posted by: larss Sep 2 2011, 11:06 PM
I swear by the "threaded rod" method. You get the car up on stands and then put your jack under each side of the engine bar. Remove the nut and bolt and replace with 18" piece of 3/8" threaded bar with a double nut on the top, and a nut with a flat washer on the bottom.
I use the "threaded rod" (M10 rod) method also, this is since Im alone and it is a safe method for both me and the engine.
I use a second jack at the front which lifts/lowers the engine so the rods are mostly unloaded (and really just there for safety) making it easy to twist the rod nuts by hand as the engine goes up or down.
/Lars S
Posted by: rhodyguy Sep 3 2011, 08:23 AM
with carbs on a 4 if you remove the carbs as an assembly leaving the linkage intact you'll buy yourself a bunch of room and preserve your current linkage adjustment. remove the 8 nuts securing the carbs to the intakes, disconnect the throttle cable, lift carbs off, and a paper towel in each runner to keep stray items out of the engine.
k
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