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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 05:56 PM

There has been lots of interest in the corvair power plant over the years as a possible source of cheap HP for many vehicles. There are used in experimental aviation, dune buggies, buses (such as mine), and in place of many other air cooled VW power plants. They are fairly cheap to buy and build, very easy to build and maintain, and plentiful with readily available parts from several suppliers.

The main divide in the corvair engine line took place in 1965 when the displacement of the engine was moved to 2.7L and was offered in a NA 110HP, NA140HP, turbo 150HP and turbo 180HP. The only differences in the long block between these engines are the nitrided crank found in all but the 110HP, and the heads: 110 had one single barrel on each head, the 140 had 2 with one acting as primary and one as secondary. The turbos had a single barrel blow through setup.

The heads are the major limiting factor in the design. They are not built in an intuitive way and rob much hp. The 140 head had bigger valves, but like its 2.0L TIV analog, would drop valve seats due to the limited amount of material between the seats in the head, and the inability of larger seats to shed heat as well as smaller seats. This can, and has been overcome by those who have been rebuilding these heads fro decades by making sure the crush tolerance on the seats are correct, and staking the seats in place.

Currently, you can get a set of rebuilt, 140hp larger valved heads, with new hardware and no core for about $1200 from Corvair Ranch in Gettysburg, PA. I bought a set that was rebuilt and had the plenums taken off for tri porting for $1500 shipped off of ebay from Starr Cooke in El Cajon, CA, another well known Corvair entity.

Modified with plenum removed for individual runners:


The above uses an adapter that allows the placement of Weber triples. My set came with this adapter.

Here is a head with a stock plenum, modified with bungs for FI. This is a 140 head as it has two carb bases on it:


Standard engine:


One of the cool things that many ACVW folks like is that the corvair engine has stock hydraulic lifters on it that use standard lifter, push rod, and rocker parts from Chevy. Easy and cheap to obtain.

Another great feature that I like over ACVW is the box design on the case. The top and bottom come off and allow for any maintenance. Swapping rods, bearings, what ever, is easy.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:02 PM

One thing you hear time and again is the claim of the cooling system tossing belts. This is an old problem that is not very common in the corvairs today as it is understood what was causing this.

First, the original fans has pitched blades like a typical fan. This causes a lot more load on a belt when the engine RPM increases and the belt attempts to speed up the fan. The pitched fan resisted enough to cause the belt to pop off. This was solved vie placement of a zero pitch fan setup. Less resistance and adequate cooling.

The other issue causing tossed belts is actually the tendency on the mechanic/owner to tighten the belts too tight. This is a sure fire proven way to toss a belt. Anyone who has messed with the belts on a 944 understands how picky some systems can be, but how well they run when properly maintained and installed.

In many ways, the corvair cooling system is superior to ACVW systems. Tangerine racing is using these horizontal fans in upgraded cooling setups .

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:05 PM

Corvairs being used in aviation:





A great site with tons of info and pics by Mark Langford:
http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Feb 19 2011, 06:11 PM

I understand that the valve springs are made of chewing gum and the cranks use a special bearing that is created using the blood of children.



Zach

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:21 PM

The corvair engine rotates opposite of most engines. This is a problem when one is interested in mating it to a different drive train. The prevalence of these engines in swaps using such drive trains allows for the ease of finding the parts to reverse the rotation of them. All that is needed is a cam and reverse dizzy gears.
Here is a link to Clark's Corvair site and the kit.
Current list price for a reverse cam (comes in several grinds) and dizzy gears:

Cam - $261 (up since when I bought mine)
Gears - $182 (Was $90 when I got mine)

I did not use my reverse parts as I ended up using a corvair powerglide auto tranz. Also, Clark's is only one vendor. There are many and most under cut Clark's significantly.

The part to mate your VW/Porsche tranz to a corvair engine is not usually hard to find either.



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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:23 PM

Dont be a dick, you tubby bastard!

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:31 PM

Dont think that these engines can be made to kick some ass? Google the Yenko Stinger and read up

Only SOME of the suppliers for these engines/cars:

Clark's http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/main -- best on line catalog, pricey

Corvair Ranch http://www.corvairranch.com/ -- Jeff, the owner, is a great guy. Good prices. My favorite.

Larry's Corvair Parts http://www.larryscorvair.com/ -- Larry is nice. I got a package deal from him for parts.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:33 PM

Many have purported that these engines are too expensive. I bought a set of headers for $200, and just changed my ring and pinion to a different ratio for $30. Doing the same for a 914 is at least $800 for the r/p, usually more. I rebuilt my posi traction for $75, too

Posted by: underthetire Feb 19 2011, 06:35 PM

the engine was the only thing other than my mom in 67 to survive when she got hit. Car was almost split in half.

Posted by: KaptKaos Feb 19 2011, 06:37 PM

Sherman - set the wayback machine to last month:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=114810&hl=

I'm glad you finally showed up Doc.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 19 2011, 06:40 PM

The problem with the corvair wasn't with the engine so much as it was with the handling characteristics of the swing axle suspension. They fixed that in later years but by then it was too late. Other than that, they might have lasted a bit longer. I had a friend who had the 180hp turbo and it was fasssst.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:41 PM

The ultimate engine!

Using 94mm TI VW p/c you can bump the 2.7 to a 3.1 It is pretty much the most you can get with the engine reliably.

Here is where I first saw it:
http://www.corvairkid.com/mm01.htm

If you look at Mark Langfords link in the earlier post, he uses this on his aircraft engine. Ray Sedman is a guy who at least used to do this conversion. It is not cheap if you pay for it to be done, but the machine work is not too bad if you know of a reputable and inexpensive machine shop. I have done this conversion 2x and both times it was not too expensive. I did make friends with the shops, though The first one was sold when I received a 911 2.7 for my 914 and figured that was easier to do (not so!).

On ebay right now you can get the p/c all machined for $1700. Kinda steep.

What is needed (and this is what is on my bus).

Barrels
- Need to have about 0.3 in removed form the base
- Bottom stud holes drilled for corvair spacing
- cut fins on center barrels (easy to do on your own)

Pistons
- milled material off of the skirt at the pin boss to clear opposing rod end

Rods
- open up small end for VW wrist pin
- oil holes drilled in small end for floating pin (stock is stationary)

Case
- open up registers for VW skirts, head studs need to be left in the case so as to preserve the material and threads that these go into.

Heads
- fly cut open to fit 94mm jugs.

This is not a necessary modification, but hard to resist. A set of 8 (I have one guy that will sell me 6) p/c with rings runs about $350

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:42 PM

Saw it, didnt need it. I have enough cars.....well, I dont have enough space for MORE cars.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Feb 19 2011, 06:43 PM

TURBO!!


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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:48 PM

The turbo was archaic. But, it did make more HP. I have not seen it done, but I bet that a better turbo and stronger rods would really wake one up. I will likely try this on the bus in the future

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 06:49 PM

Here is a 150, looks the same as a 180. Like a monkey with a fire hose
Notice also in this pic that the oil filter is vertical. The adapter to do this is easily available, cheap and a popular conversion.


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Posted by: racerbvd Feb 19 2011, 07:36 PM

Thanks Dr.
Lots of good info, most I didn't know..
Growing up, a friend down the street, father had a Turbo convt.
This was at a Dark Side DE last year..

Posted by: silver74insocal Feb 19 2011, 08:59 PM

whats this thing weigh in at?

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 19 2011, 09:06 PM

Damn the Nader torpedoes, full speed ahead!

Cool shit Doc - keep it coming!

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Feb 19 2011, 09:25 PM

Corvairs are cool as shit cars. After Mike showed me the resources that are nearby for them he made me a convert. I want to build one in a bad way. Either just a motor or the full car. Triple Webers, 3.1L, headers, fucking awesome.

Zach

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 19 2011, 09:34 PM

I've loved them since Grade & HS in the 60's! My Great Aunt used to let me drive her 63 Monza that she got new - White with Blue interior - around Pittsburgh area back in the day.

The 67-68 180 HP Turbo-Corsa 4 spd. Convertable in the metallic blue with those wide white hood/trunk "stripes"/areas like the Malibu SS396's came with, & an ivory interior - down the street in San Diego was my fav!

..... but you'd be far better off Zach building it in the best way!

Posted by: Gearhead1432 Feb 19 2011, 10:06 PM

I would like to know what a converted engine would weigh. I do know that the stock flywheel as well as the bellhousing are a heavy combination that is not needed in a 914. I have only seen Bill Fisher mention that it is "75lbs" heavier than a 1600 T1 VW.

Also, Bill Fisher's book "How to Hotrod Corvair Engines" has some good information on VW and Porsche conversions.

-Rob

Posted by: Smitty911 Feb 19 2011, 10:07 PM

Dr. Evil,

Thanks for bringing some Truth to the topic.

I've been thinking about more HP for my '74 2.0.

Looking at Raby 2270 Kit, somewhere around $10,000

$7,100 for Kit
$1,500 for SDS-EFI
$1,500 for Tangerine Header
++++++++++

Porsche Flat 6
Core ?
Rebuitd ?
Carbs, or Trottle Bodies?
Oil Tank?
Etc etc.

$10,000 - $15,000???

Subaru
Motor Low Miles $2,500
Header ?
Mounts?
Cutting up body and running water lines?
++++++

I checked a couple of the links you provided and a Complete Airfilter to Oil Pan $3,000ish
Mount?

Hmmmm, leaning, Leaning, LEANing, LEANING - I have to do some more research but damn that's going to be hard to beat.

Add that I can drop the 2.0 set it aside and just possible use a new motor mount and swap it back in needed.

Hmmm.

Smitty

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 10:49 PM

I dont know the weight. It may be in the repair manual, but I dont know if it is dry, stripped to the long block or what.

The bell housing is light aluminum, but not need in the 914, as stated.

$3000 is for one that you pay for most of the work or buy the fancy 3.1 parts. I did the 3.1 by buying the parts and having them machined for me.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 11:04 PM

Here is a link to an auction from Larry's corvair for just the pistons and cylinders. Too expensive, you can do it local and buy the parts yourself for much less.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVAIR-VW-94MM-PISTONS-CYLINDERS-PINS-RINGS-BIG- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem33564ced39QQitemZ220491214137QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru
ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 11:06 PM

One from Starrcooke for less, but lower displacement. Comes with rods Not as bad.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvair-VW-92mm-pistons-new-rings-barrels-rods- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c19592958QQitemZ120684357976QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru
ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 11:07 PM

Clutch and adapter for $400. This is about the right price. Not bad.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvair-Engine-VW-tranny-kit-complete- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19c355275cQQitemZ110651320156QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTr
uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 19 2011, 11:10 PM

Holy crap, a twin turbo vair engine starting at $1500
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corvair-Twin-Turbo-Engine- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aCorvairQQhashZitem3f075be55bQQitemZ270706402651Q
QptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I think I am making my point

Posted by: KaptKaos Feb 19 2011, 11:36 PM

True that. I have a serious jones for an LM coupe 4-spd. I'd take a 110 or a 140.

Posted by: Lou W Feb 20 2011, 12:25 AM

Sooo, then is this 63 convertable with no engine or tranny worth anything?


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Posted by: silver74insocal Feb 20 2011, 12:36 AM

yep worthless..give me 50 bucks and i will haul it away for you

Posted by: Gearhead1432 Feb 20 2011, 12:54 AM

Looking at data from the pelican forum and the corvair center, the corvair engine converted should weigh approximately the same as a 2.0 TIV or even less.

That is ~321 lbs for the 2.0 vs ~284 lbs for a VW converted 110hp Corvair engine. A complete 110hp engine was weighed at 312lbs and that includes the flywheel, bell housing, complete exhaust system, and all other accessories.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_specs/914_20_tech_specs.htm

http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,258166

Posted by: Eric_Shea Feb 20 2011, 01:13 AM

There's little fairies that open the intake plenum and sprinkle magic dust over the distributors to make them run backward.



Oh my, the new admin boy was caught cursing...

Posted by: scotty b Feb 20 2011, 06:47 AM

WORST ENGINE EVER !!


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Posted by: zymurgist Feb 20 2011, 06:53 AM

A quick search turned up a value of 440 pounds for a Porsche 3.0 engine.
http://www.dennigcars.com/Model_pages_en/911_models/911_sc_30_coupe_og_targa_eng.htm

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 07:09 AM

3.0 has two over head cams and related hardware to drive them/house them, big oil pump, etc. So, that number makes sense.

Also, more oil for the 3.0. The 3.0 is a bad ass motor, but heavier.

Posted by: jk76.914 Feb 20 2011, 07:45 AM

Nice summary- I offer a couple of clarifications-

The original 1960 was 140 cu.in. '61-63 they went to 145 with a bore increase, and the move to 164 (2.7L) was a stroke increase in '64, not '65. If you're building a '64 engine, there are some cylinder barrel and head differences from '65 and up that you need to know about...

There was also a base engine, 95 hp, below the 110 for all years. It used the non-nitrided crank along with the 110hp. But even in this form, it was forged steel, not cast.

The turbo came out in 1962 at 150 hp. And didn't go to 180 hp until '65. The '64 turbo was still rated at 150 hp even though it was on the bigger 164 cu. in. engine. All turbos were draw-through, not blow-through, single barrel Carter YH side draft carbs. Interestingly, three of these carbs were used on the original 1953 Corvette blue flame six. There was significant turbo lag. Chevy really simplified the installation though, by using a pressure retard on the distributor instead of a vacuum advance. Static timing was 24 degrees BTDC, which advanced centrifugally and then retarded under pressure. My own '63 Sypder convertible started showing positive boost at around 2500 rpm, and topped out at 10 PSI (20" Hg) by maybe 4200. I actually liked the turbo lag. For freeway passing, you could feel yourself pressing into the seat as the vac/pressure guage climbed above zero.

I don't recall any issues with dropped seats except with the big valve 140 heads.

Lifters and rockers were based on Chevy desings, but different. Pushrods were unique as they have a side bleed hole to lubricate the rocker boxes. This is necessary because the hydraulic lifters operate with zero lash, which shuts off much of the oil flow to the head. I actually am running Corvair pushrods in my T4 hydro engine for that reason- stock length fit perfecdt!

My own three Corvairs (110hp-'64, 140hp- '65, and 150 hp- '63) were indestructible, I'm convinced. Totally reliable, easy to maintain, and on and on.

Posted by: Don M Feb 20 2011, 08:40 AM

This really is a great direction if you are thnking about a swap for your teener, a few posts back the name Starr Cooke popped up, he'd be a wealth of info on this subject I think GM contacts him for info when necessary ... although Dr Evil appears to be well informed on these things.

As I said earlier I have had years of experience with these engines as well, mostly in the area of sand cars very little in streetable form. Most of the people I delt with were after the big HP numbers so big bore, stroke and related periferal work was the norm. Like Dr Evil and others have said reverse rotation is really the only consideration it must be part of any project unless some other compatable drive train is employed, just remember to select the proper (most likely straight) directional fan at the time.

Posted by: GS Guy Feb 20 2011, 08:57 AM

Great thread Doc!

The big limitation in the cylinder heads is exhaust flow, not so much with the intake. I've been told by some very knowlegible Corvair hot rodders that the stock 140 2-port intakes can flow more than enogh for what the stock exhaust ports can get out. The problem is the location of the pushrods, causing the T4 style exhaust stub pipes to be smaller and "kinked" a little to clear. The solution is an angle port conversion where the direction of the exhaust is directed away from the pushrods and made larger - that uncorks the head for any serious intake modifications - like the yummy 3bbl Weber converion!

Couple of other links of interest:
American Pi - some very nice high-end (and expensive!) 'Vair hardware
http://www.american-pi.com/corvair/corvhome.html

Rear Engine Specialists - been into hot-rod Corvairs for a loooooong time:
http://rearenginespecialists.objectis.net/folder.2004-11-21.5546474873/

Fellow buggy guy with some trick Corvair EFI hardware:
http://www.blackhawkengr.com/

and here's a good youtube of a tricked out 'Vair engine with lots of goodies running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzicgyjY12E&feature=related

Posted by: 914coop Feb 20 2011, 09:58 AM

Had two Corvair powered vesicles.

A VW framed dune buggy that the previous owner had welded in the transaxle and engine into the VW pan, Not pretty bit worked. Main problem with it was that it did not have enough weight in the front. If you floored it and the rear tires actually griped the front end would come off the ground which was cool, however if you got caught in the rain it would not steer which was not cool. Ended up welding large chucks of metal to weight down the front.

Also had a late 60's Corvair that I loved, however if you used the recommended grease in the front wheel bearing the wheels did not like to turn on snow covered streets and the cold winter. Got the car with rust problem and it was it's final demise as I was young and it was my only car.

Both power plant preformed great and gave me no issues. The only issue I had was with a choke linkage that jept falling off for some reason, just jept spares in the glove box..

Never entered my mind about using one of these engines in a 914. Been starting to look for a 911 power plant but may need to consider this if I can do it with out to much customization to the car. better with nuts amd bolts then welding and body work.

Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 20 2011, 10:01 AM

A note regarding the (upright blade) cooling fan: all the fins have a vertical rib cast onto the back side, which becomes the upwind side when rotation is reversed. These ribs are there to stiffen and strengthen the fins. If they're left in the airstream, the fan won't move enough air for effective cooling, as they create significant turbulence leading to cavitation. The difference in air movement is substantial based on our empirical research.
When we cut down the fans for T4 installation it's no biggie to remove the ribs, but I wonder what the effect on strength is with a full dia fan.

Posted by: Smitty911 Feb 20 2011, 11:34 AM

"A note regarding the (upright blade) cooling fan: all the fins have a vertical rib cast onto the back side, which becomes the upwind side when rotation is reversed. These ribs are there to stiffen and strengthen the fins. If they're left in the airstream, the fan won't move enough air for effective cooling, as they create significant turbulence leading to cavitation. The difference in air movement is substantial based on our empirical research.
When we cut down the fans for T4 installation it's no biggie to remove the ribs, but I wonder what the effect on strength is with a full dia fan."

The fan appears to be very lite in the first place, so is strength really an issue? Motor turning at less than 6,000 RPM?

I'll be running up to a local Corvair place on Monday to take a look at some motors and see what they hold.

Possibly pickup a mostly complete motor to start playing with.

Smitty

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Feb 20 2011, 11:38 AM

Using a corvair transaxle would also neutralize the "spins the wrong way" issue.

Zach

Posted by: zymurgist Feb 20 2011, 11:42 AM

Would it? Didn't the Corvair hang the engine out behind the transaxle a la the 911?

Posted by: gandalf_025 Feb 20 2011, 11:43 AM

I've only owned and driven turbo versions. I've always liked them. The turbo setup was "simple" probably because it was a production car and simple screwed up less.
There was no need for a waste gate since the size of the carb and the muffler limited boost.
The 215 V8 turbo of the same era had higher compression and needed some sort of Water Injection and Owners forgot to fill the injection fluid bottle and fried motors..
That = not simple enough.

Many ways to modify, as stated earlier.. The only issues I ever ran into were the valve seats and the cam gear needing to be bolted on because the gear was aluminum and tended to elongate the keyway otherwise. Never spun off a a fan belt myself though.

Last fall I sold a 64 Turbo Engine and Transmission as cores for 250.00. Engine was complete..and it turned over with a wrench on the pulley bolt.
It ran when I removed it from the car about 30 years ago. I posted it on Craigslist and only 1 guy came to look at it.

Hemming's featured Corvairs at their Concours last fall in Vermont. Here is a picture of a prototype Mechanical Injection Motor they has displayed there. Now that would have been interesting ??

Posted by: rascobo Feb 20 2011, 12:59 PM

When I got My learners permit at 15 1/2, My dad bought Me a 62 turbo Spyder. Very cool car, especially liked the interior touches reserved for the turbo; seats, gauges, badges etc.. Saddly it never saw My 16th B-day (wish I hadn't smoked that fatty). Oh well, one more "Oh well'.

Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 20 2011, 01:55 PM

My older bro had 9 (mostly inoperable) of them in the yard at one time by the time he was 18. His dd was a turbo spyder.
I never drove one.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 03:58 PM

The fans have been run in reverse on many engines in harsh conditions in the desert on sand rails and have done fine.

To install a corvair engine into a 914 should take ZERO modifications to the body. You will need to fab a mount that can use the stock mount points (this is very easy), and engine tin (also easy now that I have done it once). Thats it.


For those of you with more experience than me that have posted, and corrected my info, THANK YOU! I appreciate it

Posted by: KaptKaos Feb 20 2011, 04:31 PM

All of this makes you wonder why VW & Porsche didn't make a 6 cylinder version of the type4.

Posted by: bfrymire Feb 20 2011, 04:33 PM

Pictures of the modifications to the engine tin would be useful, as well as the engine mounts. Even pictures of the existing (stock ) mounts and location would be good.

Used to want one of these when I was younger.

-- brett

Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 20 2011, 04:42 PM

I can't find the resource infomation but I remember reading that the Corvair engine was originally designed for a tank project.

I have owned 5 corvairs a extremely low mileage 61 fawn beige auto coupe, a 62 white auto 4 dr, a 63 red 4 sp vert and a 65 4 sp coupe. as well as a cherry Greenbriar Van. The only photo I have is of my 65 coupe. The worse thing I ever had to fix were leaking push rod tubes. The smell of burning oil in the heaters were common.

This car was as bad as they get. Scraped down both sides, hit in the front, rusted out behind the rear wheels. I fab'd that air dam out of 18 ga. The paint is a custom mix laquer base red with wild rose pearl sprayed out over the base and the 8 coats of laquer clear cut and buffed. Oh, and this photo s probably close to 30 yrs old.


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Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 05:50 PM

There is no modification to engine tin. You just need to fab up some tins from 18ga. I made some for my bus starting with cardboard templates, copy-cut out on 18ga with tin snips (or other cutting implement, but I am addressing budget), paint and install. The engine is basically a square.

Mounts are easy to fab because the case is rectangular and has 2 mounting bosses on each side that are free and clear to mate a bar up to with shock mounts.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 06:08 PM

Its weird how hard it is to find pics of one installed in an 914. In 2000-2002 or so I found one pic and posted on Pelican, can not find it. It has been done before with nice result, but I cant seem to find proof.

Posted by: rick 918-S Feb 20 2011, 06:15 PM

If you can't prove it, it's an Alien sighting.

Posted by: scotty b Feb 20 2011, 06:17 PM

Mike has a history of those

Posted by: jk76.914 Feb 20 2011, 06:30 PM

Coupola more thoughts... The only issue with reversing rotation was with the belt life. The alternator (generator through '64) is fixed in place, and doesn't swivel to tighten the belt. This ensures that the belt geometry is fixed on the tension side: crank pulley-to-alternator-to-fan. The moveable pulley that adjusts belt tension is on the slack side: fan-to-pulley-back to crank. This was the case from day 1, obviously, and this is what you lose with a reverse rotation. Other changes over the years- belt guards on the adjustment pulley and just as the belt exits the fan pulley prevent the belt from flipping over. These came along in '64, along with the magnesium fan. The new fan was probably the biggest contribution to belt life, and it's the only fan that can be reversed. The earlier steel fans had curved blades to bite into the air as the fan turned, and they wouldn't work in reverse. All Corvair owners carried an extra fan belt, along with a 9/16" wrench to change it on the side of the road, but with all the improvements along the way, I personally never had one fail me.

Also, another comment about valve train and push rods- many firms offered performance cams for Corvair in the '60's, and all were hydros. It was generally accepted that hydros were necessary in the air cooled Corvair, and all 1.7 million Corvairs built used them. The only exception was an aftermarket cam by Edelbrock, which was for solid tappets. Interestingly, theirs was the only kit with aluminum pushrods. The theory was that though the push rods don't heat up as much as the cast iron cylinders, the aluminum expands more per degree and somewhat equalizes things. Sound familiar?

Posted by: TargaToy Feb 20 2011, 08:43 PM

Any simple ideas for retaining your HEAT if the corvair motor were used in a year 'round dd?

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 08:53 PM

You can reverse the exhaust logs and retain the heater tins. They are easy to adapt since the design is straight forward.

I am working on a new way to get heat from headers.....stay tuned after I get my engine reassembled and installed.

Posted by: Lou W Feb 20 2011, 09:05 PM

"Girls will be boys, and boys will be girls. It's a mixed up, muddled up, shook up world.............."







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Posted by: TargaToy Feb 20 2011, 09:18 PM

In a proposed 914 install, is there anything about the mounting that would interfere with shift linkage? (this is sounding better all the time).

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 09:25 PM

I would think not, however, I have not done it so that is a specific install issue to overcome if is comes up. The engine has very good bottom clearance, better than the TIV with HEs, even.

Posted by: Spoke Feb 20 2011, 09:27 PM

This is a friend's Corvair race car. The rear fender flares are off of one of the Chrysler K-cars. He's found that the front fenders have exactly the contour he wants not only for his Corvair but also for 914s.

The Corvair engine has been ported to accept the triple Webers as well as P/C and head work. The engine is immaculate and John estimates it puts out north of 250HP.

Brakes are still Corvair standard drum brakes.


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Posted by: Don M Feb 20 2011, 09:30 PM

something to consider regarding pushrods, the oem GM setup requires the use of a combination head bolt washer/stud plate /pushrod guide so there is a bit of limit to configuration of nonstock parts, not a real problem just something that needs to be addressed if other than stock units are employed.

Posted by: Spoke Feb 20 2011, 09:32 PM

This is one nice Corvair. It has the 180HP turbo engine.

Posted by: Spoke Feb 20 2011, 09:36 PM

This one might end up being a 914vair. He plans to put Corvair rear panel, Corvair engine, and Chrysler K-car wheel flares that he found match the contour of the 914.


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Posted by: Spoke Feb 20 2011, 09:39 PM

No Corvair collection is complete without a Corvair pickup.



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Posted by: McMark Feb 20 2011, 10:36 PM

Could you run a 911 transmission?

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 20 2011, 10:41 PM

Ya, but you would still have to reverse the engine rotation or it would spin the guts in the wrong direction.

Posted by: orange914 Feb 21 2011, 05:12 PM

couldn't you flip the ring&pinion, like when a vw trans is flipped to run a mid conversion?

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 21 2011, 05:48 PM

We got a new 63 Greenbriar Van - Blue with White stripes & the vinyl houndstooth looking upholstery - which we drove to CA on old 66 (only small bits of I-40 were started then). I think it only had the base 95 hp motor & auto trans (it was ostensibly Mom's DD), but it fried the valves in TX 1/2 way there & we were stuck while the local dealer fixed it (Amarillo IIRC - I was only 10 then, so fuzzy on the details at 58.5! ).

Great car, we had 6 small kids (2 - 10 yrs), 2 parents & all slept in the car on the way & every summer trip up to 67 - back from San Diego to Pittsburgh - no AC either!

As kids grew, Dad added an Army Surplus stretcher across the 2 back bench seats that folded up against the wall for driving, & open for sleeping. When we grew to 4 teens, Dad moved up to a bigger rig.

Then Dad got a 67 Chevy 3/4 tom pick-up with 327 ci 2 bbl auto trans & towing pkg. with a cab over camper - ahhhh - the luxury, still no AC though!

Posted by: Dave_Darling Feb 21 2011, 05:52 PM

That will get the output spinning the correct way, but the internal parts of the trans will still be spinning the opposite way of the one they're designed for. They won't be happy for very long, and they will let you know it with expen$ive noi$e$.

The Doc already answered this in the other Corvair thread, I believe. Or was it earlier in this thread?

--DD

Posted by: jk76.914 Feb 21 2011, 05:57 PM

Those are great memories. Which jogged mine for some more trivia- Corvair trucks had valve rotators to make them last longer (sounds like it didn't help on yours!) and they also had a transmission oil cooler on the powerglide...

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 05:59 PM

Ya, basically, the input shaft will always be spinning the wrong direction, so the gears will be spinning the wrong direction. Flipping the diff allows for the output to spin correctly, but not the internals of the trans.

When you flip the diff for a 901 to go 911 vs 914 the input shaft and internals all remain spinning in the correct direction as designed, you again change the out put direction only. The internals stay spinning as designed.

Clear as mud?

Posted by: McMark Feb 21 2011, 06:02 PM

I understand the internals would be spinning opposite of their designed intent. But just as a mental exercise:

If you install a 911 transmission in a 914 (type 4, etc) you get 5 'reverse' gears.
If you then install a Corvair motor and spin that transmission backwards, don't you get 5 'forward' gears?

It's still running on the 'backs' of the gears, but wouldn't flipping the diff be counter productive?

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 21 2011, 06:04 PM

Jim - at about 13 my first aircooled mechanical experience was helping my Dad change out that tranny oil cooler!

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 06:07 PM

Valve rotators??? I have not seen these, any pics?

I installed the tranz cooler on my PG. It was probably over kill, but I figure I like to floor it over mountain passes, in a bread box, in summer so it couldnt hurt. It was hard to find info on the cooler, it is not common and no pics could be found. I had to consult a guru about how to install and such and still no one could tell me which port is in and which is out.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 06:12 PM

You are focusing on the OUTPUT only. The helical cut gears would be spun so that their coasting side would then be the power-on side. Not good. You can switch the output of any differential by flipping the diff (if the design allows such), but the ring is being driven by the coast side of the pinion, because the INPUT shaft is spinning backwards of the tranny design no matter what side the diff is on.

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 21 2011, 06:20 PM

IIRC that was an extra cost pick-up & Van heavy duty option with the auto trans (powerglide), and IIRC it had inlet higher than outlet - so you had gravity flow through the fin-box. If that's how you did yours, then it should be okay, so long as the "bread box" isn't so low it gets whacked off on the road.

Is there any other way to drive either a Greenbriar or a VW Bus/Van in the hills/mountains, than to the floor!!??

BTW - the dealer we got it from was out by you Doc - in or near Bridgeville/Upper St. Clair Twp., but don't know if they're still there.

Posted by: McMark Feb 21 2011, 06:22 PM

No, I'm not getting that involved. It would blow up, no doubt. But it would drive forward with a 911 transmission. For a few miles anyway.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 06:30 PM

Small world

I cant remember off hand how I have it plumbed. I have the cooler in the left rear behind the wheel. It is in its own little spot and protected by a mud flap from road debris. If I hit that, something went very wrong. Thanks for the info, no one on the corvair forum could answer it.

When I say that I was flooring it going over the mountains, I mean that I was doing 80mph, up hill Not that I had to do it to make it, just that I could. And that was in a pig-rich running, not quite tuned setup.

I cant wait to see how it does now.

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 21 2011, 06:46 PM

Yes - VERY wrong indeed!

Mom's technique was to speed downhill in the Greenbriar to get a run for the uphill & finish it off at a decent speed. Dad called her "Lead Foot", & she called him "Lead Bottom" cuz he'd never drive over 55 mph - back when 65 was common & TX had 75 speed limits!

I've done that technique with our 88 Westy & stock 2.1L WBX4 + Auto (wife's DD, mine on trips!), but the higher speed running apparently caused it to throw a rod at 85 mph downhill at night in the middle of the CA desert on the return leg of one of our kids & my annual XC trips to Indy, Little Rock, OK & once to Pgh. It only had about 120k then, and that got us a whole new 2.1L rebuilt motor in her - no core refund , but it was before I knew about the GoWesty up-builds.

Your bus on the built up 'vair should haul booty now!

Posted by: Smitty911 Feb 21 2011, 08:42 PM

I spent some quality time at a local Corvair house in SoCal today.

Lots of good information and parts avalibility. I was even giving some instructions on how to do the whole thing, sans fab work.

Looking like it do able in the sub $6,000 range.

Head work is the expensive part, Deep Pocket Seats are recommended to help avoid the dropped seat issue.

Lots of motors avalible and looking at the internals seem very easy to build. Of course my CDO (That's OCD for those who don't suffer from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) would have to be kept in check from not Anodizing or polishing the Aluminum Block, Heads, etc. etc. etc.

In discussing it was suggested to keep the Compression Ratio down to a pump gas level. Use a Cam for a Manual Car, Clean up the ports, Balance everything as close as possible, use new materials for gaskets and viola, AIR-914.

I'm putting a budget and parts list together now, if anyone else is intrested. If a couple people want to do this we may be able to get a nice discount. No promises, but Cash talks, and BS Stinks.

Smitty

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 08:52 PM

How much is the head work? Shop around to the other places that work on these, the prices vary quite a bit. If you have the heads already, Corvair Ranch may be able to beat the locals. $6000 seems high as I did my build for less than that with new VW parts, etc.

Check parts prices against Clark's catalog, then call around and see what you can get for less. Corvair Ranch does beat Clark's prices, most retailers use Clark's as a base and go up from there.

Posted by: Smitty911 Feb 21 2011, 08:55 PM

Dr. Evil,

My mistake, I was including the cost of the SDS-EFI two additional throttle Bodies for the FI.

The Motor with Mostly new parts is only around $3,000 and some change.

But that's why I'm making a spread sheet

Posted by: jk76.914 Feb 21 2011, 09:07 PM

Valve rotators- can't find a picture, but my 1971 Corvair Parts Master lists them. Part number is 3851837. Looking through the mating parts, the heads are same as in the car, as are valve springs, keepers, and shims. The valves themselves are unique to F.C. (Forward Control- the trucks), and have the note: "Must be used with rotator 3817362." That's a different number than the one listed on the next page! Anyway, the rotator replaces the cap, and is usually thicker so usually the spring is shorter or there is a deeper relief machined in the head or something, but apparently not on the Corvair. Why the valve is different? Don't know.

Also, I found nice pics of the powerglide oil cooler ports in the '61 shop manual. I'll scan them tomorrow. Getting too late tonight....

Posted by: spankmeister7 Feb 21 2011, 09:09 PM

I also spent the day sourcing Corvair motors. I also stopped by my machinist's shop (who owns a 911 and a 914) and spoke with him about feasibility. He said the Corvair motor rebuild kits (including pistons, jugs, etc) should run $1000-$1500. A quick call to a local Corvair outfit confirmed this, depending on the options wanted. The heads are certainly not the cheapest. Looking around the Internet, I see that some of the vendors that Dr. Evil posted here on the first page have completely re-worked heads for $1200, but I don't see why any competent machinist would have a hard time with them.

I had no problems finding donor motors, or even donor cars, in the $250-$500 range.

Here's the breakdown as I see it yet:

Motor from Craigslist: $300
Machinist charge to check out the block and hot tank it: $50
Rebuild kit (-minus cam, -distributor gear) $1200
Reverse cam $128
Reverse distributor gear $128

I plan to assemble the motor myself, so no labor charge here, but let's say that I bought a shop manual and a rebuild guide for $100.

So far, a bit over $1900.

I guess we'll need the proper fan, but I don't know much they are off the top of my head. I seem to remember that they were cheap.

This leaves the heads. New heads from a Corvair specialist? $1200. Having my machinist take care of them? $200, because the new valves and guides are part of the kit.

$2100 so far.

Then there's the transmission adapter and custom flywheel for $400.

What's left? Fabbing an engine mount, which is extremely cheap for me because I'm handy with a torch and square tubing.

So $2500 for most everything? I'm sure that I'll need to deal with a fuel pump and perhaps go with a nice distributor, but some of the engine kits include new/rebuilt distributors.

Am I missing something terrible? Why the $6000?

-marcus

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 09:24 PM

Marcus, that is the price point that I am more familiar with. You can get rebuilds kits for even cheaper if you use used piston/cylinders. For the head rebuild, yes a good machinist can do it, there are some points to know, though. Crush, staking, depth are specifics that need to be known.

I got an engine, several 901 transmission, a turbo setup, adapter for 901, reverse gear all for $250 on Craigs list. In CA there were many deals. The whole car often cost less than just the engine.

You can usually find everything used for less on ebay and such.

Cam
Dizzy gear
Pistons
Crank
Block
Heads

When I had all the machine work done on my first 3.1 and sold it right before med school, unassembled, I got $1700 on ebay. That was EVERYTHING for a long block.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 21 2011, 09:26 PM

Great info, Jim. Thanks! I look forward to the pics.

Posted by: spankmeister7 Feb 21 2011, 09:55 PM

One more thing.

Under the heading of "interesting statistics," I found on www.corvair.org that of the 1.7 million Corvairs produced, 1.3 million of them were manufactured from 1960-1964. From 1965-1969, there were 400,000 produced, the bulk of which were born in 1965. Only 6000 were made in 1969. So while it is more difficult to get a 1965-later engine, they're going to be considerably more rare. I think that the 1964 motor, the serious transition year, would also be a good find. It doesn't have quite as meaty material where the head meets the block and the crank hasn't been chemically nitrided, but you can nitride any crank for $50 the last time I looked. The 1964 motor is still 164ci. What you need to make sure of that if you're out sourcing parts and you're buying rebuild kits, make sure that all the manufacturing years line up. 1964 is also a transition year because the later 1964 engines were actually the 1965 engines, but the 1964 engines still had the early style numbering scheme, so it might be pretty difficult to recognize a '64 motor just by the serial number.

I'm posting this to others who might be snooping out engines and may find this information useful.

-marcus

Posted by: Rand Feb 21 2011, 10:28 PM

I shouldn't post because I'm talking out my ass. Pfffphbbrfft.
But another mental exercise:

In both the 914 and 911, the main gear stack is rotating the same direction. The flipped diff is the diff(erence).
So a 911 tranny in a 914 still has the main stack going the correct direction... Just the diff backwards.
Spin the whole thing backwards and that makes up for the diff diff, but the core stack is now backwards.
So yeah, Corvair motor plus 911 tranny = 5 gears forward and 1 reverse... But after all of this shell game, the core stack is backwards... Which is said to be bad?

If two wrongs makes a right, does a wrong plus a wrong plus a right make everything wrong but actually right because it is anti counter productive?

This will make more sense after I have a beer.

Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 21 2011, 10:36 PM

People (including me) set up close ratio boxes by installing gear sets in the "wrong" position all the time so that they run backwards. Yes, I know the thrust is in the wrong direction but I've never heard of any problems resulting from this.
Whats the difference if all 5 gears are spinning the "wrong" direction?

Posted by: KELTY360 Feb 22 2011, 01:12 AM

It makes sense if you don't think about it.

Posted by: messix Feb 22 2011, 01:33 AM

stock starter would be a problem! it will still turn "the proper" direction....

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 22 2011, 07:36 AM

It mainly is an issue with the pinion/diff. I, too, flip gears for ratios often and that is not a problem, but if the diff/pinion is not turning in the correct orientation it would not be a pretty site. Also, you dont flip 1st. 1st gear is set up to only be down shifted into whilst turning in one direction due to its band and block configuration. Shifting from reverse to 1st real fast is one way you can try what it would be like to shift into first with the box being turned the wrong way. With first running backwards, you would be prone to popping out of gear as the band would not be reinforced by the internal mechanisms of the synchronization package.

Posted by: Rand Feb 22 2011, 10:17 AM

The way I explained it made sense to me. I just wasn't sure I had it right.

Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 22 2011, 12:03 PM

I'm not convinced that running the R/P backwards would hurt it.
Reversing the brake band/block on first is easy, no need to even disassemble the gearbox.
I don't know if how the bearings are retained in the case would be a problem though,
but the starter appears to be a significant issue.

Posted by: pt_700 Feb 22 2011, 01:14 PM

wish i'd known about this before buying all the kit pieces to convert to sbc.

this is a relatively minor concern but, what kind of fuel economy can be had from corvair motors?

paul

Posted by: andys Feb 22 2011, 02:53 PM

Interseting read, this thread is. Was cleaning out my bookshelf just last month and threw out a copy of HP Books "How to Hot Rod the Corvair." Would have gladly donated it had I known.

'66 Corsa was fast. Easiest mod was to wrap the exhaust to get more boost. There was also a 2bbl down draft carb manifold (Crown?) that used a 2G Rochester if I remember correctly. Ran 126MPH (standing start mile) at El Mirage at a time when 911's would struggle to break 100MPH.

Andys

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 22 2011, 05:59 PM

If anyone is interested, I have a holley carb adapter with an almost new 390 Holley for sale. I had CIS for this engine and just decided to go that way.

Posted by: ClayPerrine Feb 23 2011, 05:29 PM

You also have to consider the thrust loads on both the input and pinion shafts of the 901. Turning in the correct direction, the helical cut gears on the shafts push the input and output shafts in different directions. When you reverse the input rotation, you change the thrust load. That makes the thrust bearings engineered into the transmission irrevelant, and the thrust load happens against surfaces not designed to handle it. It also changes the backlash on the ring and pinion combo. When there is load on the pinion gear, it climbs the ring gear slightly. When you reverse it, it will not climb the ring gear, changing the backlash and affecting both the life of, and the noise from the gearbox.

Yes, it would work. But no, it won't last long. The extra horsepower of the corvair engine, combined with the incorrect thrust loads will make quick work of the transmission.


FYI.. the reason the corvair engine turns backwards is that the corvair gearbox was a modified saginaw 4 speed that had a hollow main shaft so they could put an extra long input shaft through it's middle to connect it to the rear mounted engine. And the differental assembly is a standard 10 bolt diff that was found in everything GM made. So they made the engine turn backwards so they didn't have to make all new gearbox pieces.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 23 2011, 05:55 PM

9 bolt diff, 6 on early cars.

Posted by: carr914 Feb 24 2011, 09:27 AM

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Feb 24 2011, 09:34 AM

This thread is doing nothing for my wants to build a Corvair....

Zach

Posted by: RJMII Feb 24 2011, 11:48 AM

Or for me it would be a corvair powered street/dune buggy. The manxter 2+2.

Posted by: Tom_T Feb 24 2011, 01:33 PM

Smitty - looking at your sig line about running for Congress in CA 39th Dist. - you do realize I hope, that once anyone Googles for you and finds you on this website, that they'll realize that you're a NARP - Not A "Real" Politician"!!!!

Best of Luck , then you can make it a Federal Law that ALL cars 30+ years old are exempt from smog checks, extra fees, driving restrictions, etc., be given exclusive HOV lane priveledges, etc., etc.!!!!

Cheers & Luck!
Tom
///////

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 24 2011, 04:10 PM

Wow, that is nice.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 24 2011, 10:07 PM

For those interested in doing this, I have the heads, adapter, and new holley carb for the set up. The heads are already bored for 94mm p/c and are rebuilt with in the last 1500 mi

Posted by: spankmeister7 Feb 25 2011, 12:35 AM

Hi. I've been picking out bits and pieces for a Corvair motor for myself. I've also been making friends with the Corvair crowd over at www.corvaircenter.com. It's a great forum that stays technical and they've seen their share of VW-Porsche conversions.

If anyone wants to read, I've started a post over there (my name is Redstar these days) that might be worth a read from users here. It's a bit political, but its just my opinion. I don't want to inundate them with my own version of 914 theory and politics, so I've kept it on the level. They've got a sweet knowledge base over there. What's interesting to me is that a guy there just sold his Corvair-powered 914 for $7000 just a few weeks ago. They seem to have known about us the whole time.

http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,385181

I've decided not to go with the VW 94mm cylinder/piston setup but instead will seek a 1965-66 140hp motor unless a rebuildable turbo motor falls in my lap. I'm going to do a Corvair conversion slowly, methodically, with many pictures that I'll cross-post here and at the other forum.

Its funny because I thought I would escape an expensive triple-Weber carburetor conversion. Now.. I have doubts.

-marcus

Posted by: Don M Feb 25 2011, 07:46 AM

this used to be the consensus many years ago when VW/corvair combos were popular in the So Cal sand dunes, even the modest output ones in our group experienced ring and pinion failure on a regular basis, average life expectancy was 4-5 weekends. after some one figured out how to reverse the engine rotation this problem all but disapeared except in all but the most powerful buggies and even then really no more than the VWs of like power levels.

Posted by: Smitty911 Feb 25 2011, 06:51 PM

No worries Tom, I lost anyway. Seems the people of the district are more intrested in being taken care of than their Personal Freedoms. Oh well.

I should change my sig line, but I'm thinking about 2012. By that time My NARP will be a Air914

Smitty

Posted by: jk76.914 Feb 26 2011, 08:35 AM

Finally go around to scanning the shop manual page that covers the trans cooler ports on the powerglide cover. Also, found some valve rotator pictures- for sale on eBay of all places!

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 26 2011, 09:10 AM

Dude! You rock. Thanks for the info. You know what, I have seen those rotators on one of my heads (duh). I forgot all about it until you posted that pic. I hope these are not necessary for my bus usage of 140 heads.

Thank you so much.

Posted by: Gearhead1432 Feb 27 2011, 11:15 AM

I would like to know more about the valve rotator. My understanding so far has been that normaly every time the valve opens it is rotated due to the offset of the rocker in ralation to the valve stem. Don't all engines operate like this?

Looking at the picture it seems like the valve rotator is a sort of two peice valve spring retainer, maybe even a bearing?

Thanks,
Rob

Posted by: Gearhead1432 Feb 27 2011, 11:21 AM

Another concern would be the weight the rotator adds to each valve. Probably not a good idea for any high performace engine. I can see how it might help in a bus were rpms are limited and load can be high.

-Rob

Posted by: jk76.914 Feb 27 2011, 11:52 AM

Exactly right. My Googling uncovered articles that indicate the rotators are used in engines that don't rev high, and that spend a lot of time at or near full power in moderate rpm ranges. Like trucks and industrial engines. They are definitely heavier. I saw a number of sources selling "rotator eliminators"- basically spacers to space the spring up higher on engines that have had their thicker rotator removed. Seems lots of Chev impala sites sell these. Could be the 348 Chevy used them? It was originally designed as a truck engine but pressed into service as the first big block car engine in '59. The 409 replaced it in '62, though it was still available in trucks for a few more years.

Picture of a cross section is below, along with a write up... These are not from articles about Corvairs, but similar. Image is of the "positive" type.

I don't believe the side force on the valve tip could overcome the friction due to the valve spring- just not enough torque with the small torque arm it acts through.


Note that the heads, springs, and keepers are the same with rotators as without on Corvair. Only the valves themselves are different. I'm guessing they are longer, and that's how they handled the thicker keeper. I've never actually seen one myself.

Posted by: McMark Feb 27 2011, 12:21 PM

I'm glad someone understood what I was trying to say.

Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 27 2011, 12:28 PM

I got what you are saying, it was just silly

Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 7 2011, 12:17 AM

Another cost comparison:

Nickies for /6 OR /4 $$$$

Nickies for corvair = $1550 to your desired bore size.
http://www.corvairspecialties.com/cylinders.html

Posted by: spankmeister7 Mar 7 2011, 12:54 AM

Mmmm... Nikasil. Just like the cylinders in my BMW R75/5 engine. Delicious, delicious Nikasil.

As a proud fellow traveler of TEAL, I'm a little put off by this:

"This product makes the Corvair engine more like it's German counterpart, the Porche." PORCHE.

See: http://laughingsquid.com/the-typo-eradication-advancement-league-teal/

Oh, and look what showed up today! It's a 1967 110hp "RD" engine that will be rebuilt as a 140. I found all the reverse rotation parts locally for $300. Turns out, many Corvair folk have the adapter plates and reverse cams and what-not laying about the corners of their garages. Sure its a bit weathered, but it will soon be the subject of a 914world restoration-porn thread.

Total spent so far: $500, including the engine.

-marcus


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Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 7 2011, 07:34 AM

You should start a rebuild thread on that I remember having one in that shape before the rebuild

Posted by: Dr Evil Mar 7 2011, 08:48 AM

How about a supercharger!?
http://levair.com/

Posted by: gandalf_025 Mar 7 2011, 10:27 AM

I was digging through my Storage area and came across a couple of Corvair Turbo Heads that had some serious issues.. First one dropped a Valve Seat at about 75mph
and the second one overheated bad enough to melt the head.
I was driving the one that dropped the valve seat, but bought the overheated one on a core engine many years ago..






I really need to get rid of some of this stuff.......

Posted by: Todd Enlund Mar 16 2011, 12:13 AM

Saw this in Portland the other day:

Posted by: rick 918-S Mar 16 2011, 01:44 PM

Cool long roof!

Posted by: DBCooper Mar 16 2011, 04:29 PM

From my memory of the cars themselves they all leaked oil. In the late 60's I autocrossed a T1 engined VW dunebuggy and whenever a Crown conversion buggy showed up he was shooting at TTOD. And leaking oil.

Posted by: Gearhead1432 Mar 23 2011, 10:17 PM

Corvairs suffer from leaky pushrod tubes much like VWs do. Aside from that, it seems like they should hold oil as well or better than a VW or Porsche.

On that note, a friend of mine has a Corvair that leaks quite a bit.

-Rob

Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 24 2011, 12:48 AM

My dads autocross car, triple webers .


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Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 24 2011, 12:51 AM

my personnal favorite corvair, Bill Thomas , Doug Roe


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Posted by: gandalf_025 Mar 24 2011, 05:29 AM

Just happened across this on Craigslist.. No affiliation

He says it is NEW

Judson Super Charger (Corvair ) - $2500 (Colchester, Ct.)
Date: 2011-03-18, 7:05PM EDT

This is a Super Charger ( N. O. S. ) manufactured by the Judson company in Coshoken Pa. in 1963 designed to fit all models of Corvairs, You know the ones Ralf didn't like ! Hemmings Motor news had an interesting write up about these last year, they are quite rare especially unused. The package Your'e looking at is 100% complete and unused. The Marvel Mystery Oiler and the carbuerator is New Old Stock also. This may fit some M G's possibly with some adaptations I'm not sure though ? If You have any questions or are intrested please feel free to contact me at ( 860 - 705 - 6398 Ask for Ray thanks...

* Location: Colchester, Ct.

Posted by: ssuperflyoldguy Jul 14 2021, 01:28 PM

Way to keep the thread alive - my Corvair had oil starvation issues & clacking lifters after a good twisty run - great handling 1965 with just enough power to get brake fade if you were not careful (trick was to assert your dominance on a tight uphill run...) Baffles may help, its been a long time - however, never had internal issues ever myself, all the other local & club members didnt either except a 67 with a smog pump was always having issues until a piston burned... even the found junk motors could be used unless they were full of water. See 180hp dream motor below

(currently perusing Craigslist for 110/140/180 right now...)

Posted by: gandalf_025 Jul 14 2021, 02:41 PM

I have held on to the engine and transaxle out of my 180hp Turbo for over 30 years.
I always thought I might have 1 more Corvair to build but I doubt it will happen now.

Guess it is time to throw it on craigslist and see if there is any interest...

I listed it years ago but the people that were interested wanted it shipped
to them and that's not happening..






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Posted by: larryM Jul 26 2021, 04:19 PM

glad this got revived - never saw it before

recently i was pondering putting a 'vair powertrain into my 69 Westfalia which is sitting engine/tran-less in the back 40

i helped do that conversion in a friend's bus about 30 yrs ago & it was magical to drive by comparison to stock

i was deep into corvairs & vw bugs before i got into porsches in mid-1970's

sold this restored Corsa for a house down payment in '79 for $4500

Posted by: mepstein Jul 26 2021, 04:23 PM

Easy. Strap it to a pallet and tell the buyer to make sure his shipper brings a pallet jack and a truck with a lift gate. Costs about $75 extra.