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Posted by: ss6 May 16 2004, 12:10 PM

My ~30 yr old ignition lock is acting up (the LOCK, not the switch). Gotta get the lock cylinder out of the pot metal housing, but the Pelican Tech Article appears to cover an earlier model; the two screws shown in that article do not exist on my assembly, which is out of a '76.

Any clues on how to (nondestructively) remove the lock cylinder from the housing???

Posted by: tod914 May 16 2004, 01:30 PM

do a search on the pelican site under my name - I went through the same thing as you. But basically, the steering column needs to be removed, the plastic case slid off. then you can access it from the rear.

Posted by: ss6 May 16 2004, 02:48 PM

Already been there. I have the pot metal assembly containing the switch, steering wheel lock, and lock cylinder out of the car. I've also removed the switch from the assembly.

How do I get the lock cylinder out of the pot metal assembly. In other words, how do I replace the lock cylinder???

Posted by: Levi May 16 2004, 05:38 PM

I don't know that I can explane it but there is a little hole that you stick the end of a paper clip or tiny nail in and it will release the key cylinder....If you can't figure it out let me know, mine is still out and I can take a picture...

Posted by: vsg914 May 16 2004, 06:16 PM

This is the hole. push something small in the hole and it will pull out. The switch on the right is the one you will have. Why are you pulling it out? do you have a new replacement?


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Posted by: Levi May 16 2004, 06:44 PM

Curt.....You da man...Saved me a trip out to my shop..

Posted by: vsg914 May 16 2004, 06:48 PM

My bedroom is in my shop

Posted by: Levi May 16 2004, 06:52 PM

Posted by: ss6 May 16 2004, 08:11 PM

Thanks guys, but the picture shows a pre- 1975 assembly. '75's and '76's use a completely different assembly - some damn Volkswagen engineer obviously had a "better" idea, otherwise known as part number 113-905-851-A.

Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:42 PM

1 of 11 pics on how to take it apart.


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:42 PM

2 of 11


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:43 PM

3 of 11


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:43 PM

4 of 11


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:44 PM

5 of 11


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:45 PM

6 of 11


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:45 PM

7 of 11


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:50 PM

8 of 11

Locate this hole...


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:52 PM

9 of 11

...and stick a small screw driver in it.


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:53 PM

10 of 11

wiggle the ignition lock cylinder out of it. FWIW, this is the tab of spring metal that you moved out of the way with the screw driver in the last step. If the ignition switch is in the ON position, it won't come out. I always do it with the key in the switch. Forgot why now but I did it anyway tonight.


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Posted by: kafermeister May 16 2004, 09:55 PM

11 of 11

all done... Go get a beverage.


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Posted by: maf914 May 17 2004, 08:27 AM

Kafermeister,

Thanks for the photos. I've replaced the plastic switch portion on my 76 twice, but not had to mess around with the key cylinder yet. I'll save your photos for that time.

Mike

Posted by: ss6 May 17 2004, 09:08 AM

Herr KaferMeister -

Thanks for those pix, nice job!!!. You should submit your pictures as an addendum to the PP Tech Article (I think at there is at least one there already).

Pic 8 pretty much explains why I'm having so much trouble. Looks like my casting may have been replaced already, the metal insert you show in pic 4 is missing, and so is the crucial hole you show in pic 8.

My assembly has a kinda sorta slot in the casting diameter that holds the cylinder, right above the hole you showed. Kinda looks like yours does too, but you see it better when you're looking more in line with the key shaft.

Guess I'm going to have to make my own hole, the problem I'm trying to fix is the chrome collar around the key orifice is cracked, so it sits cockeyed in there, and interferes with the rotation of the key, not to mention the proper operation of the "deadbolt". Don't want the deadbolt deciding to kick in on the track...

BTW, AA's 914 Tech Tips 700 correctly described the process for the '75 / '76 lock cylinder removal (the missing hole on my casting notwithstanding).

Thanks for all the contributions - YOU GUYS ROCK!!!

Posted by: kafermeister May 17 2004, 10:31 AM

Thanks guys, I hope the pictures are useful.

ss6, FWIW, It seems like I've seen more than one version of the 113-905-851-A columns. I know for absolutly sure that a VW column will fit and work. Just as long as you're using an intermittant wiper switch.

Can't say for sure if the Porsche ignition lock will fit the VW column as it's been a few years since I've had to mess with that part of the car.

Rick

Posted by: vsg914 May 17 2004, 10:34 AM

John, if ya don't mind the vw key, the vw dealerships sell the same lock for about 25 % of the Porsche part.

Posted by: tod914 May 17 2004, 11:45 AM

Excellent job! You'll save many of us quite a few headaches in the future. Thanks for taken the time to do that.

Posted by: ss6 May 17 2004, 01:11 PM

Curt, have any idea what part number to ask for at the VW dealer? The $88 Porsche p/n is 914-247-904-020, and you have to specify the lock code (which I think I have somewhere). So I'm thinking, if the VW order wants a lock code, I can still use my original keys???

(Had it apart 20 seconds after I drilled a hole roughly in the location shown by KaferMeister's pix .)

Posted by: kafermeister May 17 2004, 04:32 PM

Excellent! I wondered if drilling a hole would be necessary. Thanks for posting your results.

Rick

Posted by: vsg914 May 17 2004, 04:37 PM

Sorry John, Don't know the vw part #. Hmm, I was quoted 160 bucks at the local Porsche dealership. The vw part was about 45. For $88.00, I go with the Porsche part. The keys are different.

Posted by: rdracrdave May 17 2004, 05:09 PM

Notice the crack in the electrical part of the switch in the last photo. I've replaced litterally dozens of these switches with the same crack .
The engineers told me that the crack forms from the grease inside the plastic housing getting rock hard from very cold weather and fracturing the plastic when you turn the key .
Do you guys in the warmer areas have the same issue?
Dave

Posted by: campbellcj May 17 2004, 09:12 PM

Great pics & writeup guys (Classic Thread candidate, oh might admins?)

I recently figured out by trial and error how to do this so I could remove the steering lock mechanism but still have the regular key-activated ignition.

Posted by: ss6 May 17 2004, 10:02 PM

After doing a little internet searching, it appears the lock cylinders are made by Hella, and the ones used on the '75+ Rabbit are identical to the cylinder used in all 914-4's The part number is M5040-15113, they are commonly available for under $20 (with keys), and at least one parts supplier lists this part number specifically as a 914 replacement. The catalog picture appears to be identical to my cylinder (famous last words).

I have one on order as an experiment, on the hopes that I can rekey the lock either by transferring the pins (pretty worn though) or by reordering the pins in the new lock. Apparently there are only 4 sizes of pin, and I have the code sequence for my particular lock, thanx to a PO. Hopefully, the PP tech article will help.

I'll update this thread with my results.

Posted by: kafermeister May 18 2004, 07:58 PM

Wow. Didn't know that about the Rabbit ignition switches. I have one w/key that came out of a '83 GTI I would have donated. You know I gotta try it now. ;-)

Correct, only 4 different tumblers. Same with Door keys IIRC.

Rick