Okay suspension gurus,
What's the deal with the front camber? How much adjustment is there supposed
to be? People aim for -1.5 degrees so I was kinda assuming that the range would
be about that much. But of course when I borrowed a bubble gauge, I'm not able
to change things by more than 0.75. When I do the rough math, with the strut
somewhere around 25" long, the adjustment slot about 0.77", and the bolt
diameter of 0.39", that leaves arcsin((0.77-0.39)/25)=0.87 degrees. What am I
missing?
Want to get real camber in front, but stay in stock class.
Thanks,
Mark S.
'70 914-6
The guru's are still sleeping so I'll pass along my experience. The first time we aligned my car he was only able to get about .75 negative camber up front. The next time we installed the Weltmeister camber plates and hacked the opening some and got -2.0. I don't know what you could expect from using the camber plates without widening the opening since we didn't do that. Hope this helps some.
You have to cut the tub. If you dont buy the upper monoball strut holder... you have to trim your OE rubber strut holder. There is not enough room in the tub for the strut holder to "move over" towards the tank without cutting it down on the side that hits.
Finding extra strut holders is easy (around my place) because we replace them frequently.
I can show you where to cut yours.
The tub: normally requires using a small die grinder and opening up the holes for the 3 bolts (so they can now move over farther)
B
Mark, let me know what you find out...I might do the same. My tires rub now at extreme cornering.......I don't know why you are worried about staying in stock class, you are the only one there anyway........
herb
Thanks everyone. Just needed to be sure I wasn't missing anything. I've
only got about -0.75 on the fronts, and don't think I can go to any lower
height.
Mark S.
'70 914-6
These will give a bit over 1 deg more negative camber. You'll then prolly have to pitch your strut dust covers.
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