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Posted by: aircooledboy Jun 2 2004, 08:17 PM

I've noticed glass related Q's here pretty often, and recently the topic of windshield trim removal came up on another thread. Racer Chris made a damn good tool of his own, especially for never having seen one. It occurred to me that many of the same people who are removing windshields are the same type of people who would probably have the ability to make this tool if they knew what it looked like. Soo... here is what a "reveal molding trim clip tool" looks like.
For scale, the base of the triangle that makes up the tip is exactly one inch, the point on the left is 3/16 deep, and the one on the right is 5/16. Often one point works better than another depending on a lot of variables. Ya just try one, and if it don't woyk, try da udda.


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Posted by: aircooledboy Jun 2 2004, 08:23 PM

It drives me NUTS when writers don't know the difference between "there" and
"their." I can't believe I did that.

Posted by: aircooledboy Jun 2 2004, 08:32 PM

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!

And "winshield". Man I am retarded tonight. I'm gonna go watch South Park before I post again.

Posted by: ArtechnikA Jun 2 2004, 08:39 PM

s'okay.

lots of people can't read any better than you can type

Posted by: Levi Jun 2 2004, 08:42 PM

Posted by: 4WheelDrifter Jun 2 2004, 08:46 PM

Tool with a tool

j/k

Posted by: lmcchesney Jun 3 2004, 07:16 AM

Thanks Aircooledboy.
How thin is the tool? I can imagine how to use the tool Chris made, but how would youl use this tool?
L. McC

Posted by: Phoenix-MN Jun 3 2004, 09:35 AM

Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at an Elingsh uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht frist and lsat ltteer is at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by it slef but the wrod as a wlohe.

Posted by: Levi Jun 3 2004, 09:46 AM

Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at an Elingsh uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht frist and lsat ltteer is at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by it slef but the wrod as a wlohe.

Posted by: aircooledboy Jun 3 2004, 11:17 AM

It is very simple to use, but a little tricky to desribe. I'll get my crayons out and see if I can draw a diagram. You slide the tool under the trim, so that one side of the point or the other is parallel to the trim, you slide the tool until it contacts a trim clip. The top edge of each clip is beveled to allow the trim to push it back when you install the molding. The point of the tool will slide slightly between the clip and the molding at the bevel. You rotate the tool, and it pulls the clip back, releasing the trim. On the first clip or two, you push lightly down on the tool as you release the clip, which raises the trim a little (due to the bend in the handle), and prevents the trim from getting re-grabbed by the clip until you have released enough clips to prevent the tension created by the other clips from pulling the trim back down.

As far as thickness of the tool, it is pretty thin (16 gauge maybe??), and hardened. But, the truth is at long as what you make it out of will not bend when you use it, the thinner the better.

Couple important details:
1) The trim on a 914 is VERY soft. You must be careful not to bend it as you are working with it. Even moderate soft bends will be tough to straighten out so they do not show, particularly on nice well polished pieces.

2) The good news is the clips on a 914 are very small and low in holding force relative to most clips of this type. You shouldn't have to crank on them to get them to release, and if you are patient, you can get the trim off w/o bending it.

3) It is very common for windshields which have been replaced to have whatever sealer was used to install it have oozed into the channel around the glass so that it is holding in the trim somewhat. This it not as big a problem as it sounds though. You just need to take a ultility knife with the blade fully extended, and run it up and down the problem areas a few times under the trim. Again, patience is a virtue here. Use a new sharp blade, and you can free up even the hardest urethane glued trim.

Well, apparently the gerbil fell off his wheel in the POS scanner here, so I had to take a picture instead, and the quality ain't that great.


No laughing at the retarded kid's drawing skills here:


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Posted by: aircooledboy Jun 3 2004, 11:36 AM

slightly better pic of scribble:


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Posted by: 4WheelDrifter Jun 3 2004, 03:01 PM

Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at an Elingsh uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht frist and lsat ltteer is at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by it slef but the wrod as a wlohe.

Posted by: andys Jun 3 2004, 03:13 PM

Ok, Chris, your sketch finally tells the whole story!! Thanks a bunch. Perhaps this should go into the Classic's section.

Andy

Posted by: 4WheelDrifter Jun 3 2004, 04:30 PM

Posted by: mattillac Feb 4 2005, 02:15 PM

that is a beautiful drawing! looks like a simple enough job with that special tool. thanks alot for the cool how-to!

Posted by: MattR Feb 4 2005, 02:21 PM

Dude, where did you get that "scratch pad"??? Thats effin hilarious!!!

Posted by: aircooledboy Feb 4 2005, 03:07 PM

Seeing that drawing still makes me giggle. It is a damn good thing "drawing" is not part of my job description.

The pad came from my 500 year old, gravel voiced, never less than 3 cigarettes burning at a time, beer drinking, NASCAR loving secretary. God Bless her.