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Posted by: EJP914 May 30 2011, 05:58 PM

When the car ('74 1.8) is first run, it shifts ok. After it has been run for awhile and gets hot, I have trouble getting it into any gear especially first where I get a big grinding sound.
I have never replaced the clutch pedal or brake pedal bushings. Is it possible the clutch bushing is swelled up, not allowing the clutch pedal to fully return? It does make a really bad squeak when pushing the pedal in. This might be a really stupid question, but it's all i could think of as the cause.
The shifter bushings are fairly new so I don't think it's that. I do have to adjust the free play on the clutch since I just replaced the plastic bushing on the end of the cable.
I can't think its a broken clutch cable tube since the shifting is ok when cold.
Any suggestion on what may be the cause. Thx in advance for the help.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon May 30 2011, 06:15 PM

Replacing the pedal bushings isn't too hard once you get the pedal assembly out. You can get the bushings in a kit and it has been suggested in the past NOT to use the roll pin that comes with the kit. I've been advised to buy a roll pin made with harder steel. Having said that, I used the roll pin in the kit eight years ago and it's still working. (Watch, now it will break tomorrow). Replace the pedal bushings and adjust your clutch.

PS I'm originaly from Clairton.

Posted by: EJP914 May 30 2011, 06:30 PM

Car has been sitting all afternoon. Stone cold. I can get 2nd and 3rd with some effort, but 4th and 5 th is no-go. I am afraid to force it. Any ideas? I am beginning to think this is going to be expensive.

Elliot: How long have you been gone from the 'burg?

Posted by: messix May 30 2011, 06:47 PM

is it hard to get into gear when the engine is off?

if its ok then it's prolly just a need to adjust the clutch linkage down under the car by the tranny. have some one get in and push in the clutch while under the car and see if it's pulling the throw out bearing fork back all the way. if it is you might be need to put a spacer [washer] between the fork pivot ball and the bell housing. this will allow the fork to put more in to the clutch.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon May 30 2011, 07:35 PM

QUOTE(EJP914 @ May 30 2011, 05:30 PM)

Posted by: Dr Evil May 30 2011, 08:51 PM

Hey Neighbor. I am thinking that this could also be an internal problem. Heat changes the way stuff in the gear box works and the viscosity of the oil. Thinner oil with heat = shittier shifting with worn internal parts. Not an uncommon occurrence. The only other thing that tends to be a culprit are the engine mounts allowing for shifting of the drive train. This is less likely as you are getting grinding which is either caused by a clutch that is not completely disengaging, or but worn internal parts.

For proper clutch adjustment, see my 31 pages of notes below.

If you wanna swing by or set up a time to meet, I can help you out.

Posted by: EJP914 May 30 2011, 08:56 PM

Messix: Yes it is hard to get it into gear when the car is not running. At first I couldnt get any gear except 1 and reverse. The more I moved the shifter around alot and pushed the clutch pedal in and out, I finally found 2 & 3. 4 & 5 finally came around about an hr later. I adjusted the clutch cable at the tranny and will drive it tomorrow to see if any better.

Posted by: Dr Evil May 30 2011, 09:05 PM

QUOTE(EJP914 @ May 30 2011, 10:56 PM)

Posted by: messix May 30 2011, 09:23 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ May 30 2011, 08:05 PM)

QUOTE(EJP914 @ May 30 2011, 10:56 PM)

Messix: Yes it is hard to get it into gear when the car is not running. At first I couldnt get any gear except 1 and reverse. The more I moved the shifter around alot and pushed the clutch pedal in and out, I finally found 2 & 3. 4 & 5 finally came around about an hr later. I adjusted the clutch cable at the tranny and will drive it tomorrow to see if any better.

Ah, if not getting reverse then it is an adjustment issue. Reverse only puts up a fight when the adjustment is out, there is not syncro on it.

Posted by: URY914 May 31 2011, 05:16 AM

Start by checking that the cone screws are tight. Then adjust your clutch.

Posted by: jjackson May 31 2011, 07:04 AM

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ May 30 2011, 08:35 PM)

QUOTE(EJP914 @ May 30 2011, 05:30 PM)

Car has been sitting all afternoon. Stone cold. I can get 2nd and 3rd with some effort, but 4th and 5 th is no-go. I am afraid to force it. Any ideas? I am beginning to think this is going to be expensive.

Elliot: How long have you been gone from the 'burg?

Since 1956. Steeler fan for life.

Posted by: dirk9141973 Jun 1 2011, 03:50 PM

same problem getting into reverse and 1st ?? I think its linkage ?? never had this problem and idea?

Posted by: Dr Evil Jun 1 2011, 04:06 PM

In my 31 pages of notes linked below this is addressed

Posted by: charliew Jun 1 2011, 04:18 PM

From when I was a kid in the 60's if the clutch is not fully disengaging when the disk gets hotter it will be thicker and even more harder to get it to disengage. Try opening the door and rolling the car forward and backward while trying to get it in 1st or reverse and if it then goes in easily it's the clutch adjustment. By moving the car you are helping align the gears to slip in position easier. Kinda like rolling a bike back and forth to get the gears to mesh while you are sitting still.

Posted by: dirk9141973 Jun 1 2011, 05:00 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 1 2011, 02:06 PM)

In my 31 pages of notes linked below this is addressed

Posted by: Spoke Jun 1 2011, 05:07 PM

QUOTE(jjackson @ May 31 2011, 09:04 AM)

Posted by: Valy Jun 1 2011, 06:49 PM

Had a similar problem till I changed the front engine mounts.
The engine moves when the mounts are shot so the shift alignment changes.