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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 1.7 idle

Posted by: smrz914 Jul 13 2004, 12:12 PM

So i talked to the PO and he said that there was a wire that needed to be connected before the car would idle correctly. The pic shows what I found. The green arrow is of two wires that are not connected to anything and the red arrow is of where i think they should go. But I have no idea what the red arrow part is. The red arrow part seems to be broken at the "wire connector".

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Posted by: ArtechnikA Jul 13 2004, 12:38 PM

every time i speculate about a DJet car i wind up regrettung it - but - i think your red arrow is pointing to the cold start injector; this should have nothing to do with your idle.

i can't help you on the wires, but if they go to the cold start injector, they aren't your peoblem either...

what is it about the idle that makes you think it's not right ?

Posted by: smrz914 Jul 13 2004, 12:50 PM

The PO loaned the car to a friend and the car would die at startup b/c the idle was to low. So he jacked up the idle to compensate but the car has a high idle when it's warm too. so I want to get rid of the high idle.

Posted by: lapuwali Jul 13 2004, 01:20 PM

Low idle can be lots of things, but I'd check condition and timing of the ignition system first. Not having a cold start injector (which, with those wires disconnected, you don't) means cold starts will be harder, but once the car is running, the injector is supposed to be off, and shouldn't affect anything.

Posted by: brant Jul 13 2004, 01:24 PM

The cold start injector (If the full FI had everything working correctly and the planets were aligned) would only come on at freezing or below......

so what I'm trying to say is that everyone is correct the problem is not your cold start injector

b

Posted by: Joe Ricard Jul 13 2004, 01:42 PM

can't se it from this side of the engine picture. But twhen engine is cold there idle is controlled by the air bypass valve. It will stay open for as long as it takes to get the engine up to temp. Few seconds to maybe a minute. The valve gradually closes in relation to the engine temp.

two wires are probably to the cold start injector (what everybody else said)

Personal experience I don't have a cold start nor air by pass. Engine runs low idle unless I make up for it by throttle pedal. Basically same process. just not automatic.

I would get the engine warm to operating temp and then set idle speed, check timing and vacuum leaks. You should be all set.

Posted by: smrz914 Jul 13 2004, 01:43 PM

Ok well i'll ignore the wires and set the timing and check the hoses for leaks. Thanks guys.

Posted by: wheelo Jul 13 2004, 10:12 PM

Throttle Positioning Sensor - should check and calibrate, you can get info from Pelican Tech Article.
Once done, you can rough-in, idle-air-screw.
My .02
Good Luck

Posted by: Bleyseng Jul 13 2004, 10:49 PM

Make sure the vacuum retard hose is hooked to the port on the throttle body below the throttle plate.
Make sure the vacuum advance hose is hooked up the the port above the throttle plate.
Time the engine to 27 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpms with a timing lite.

Hook up the PCV hose to the plenum vacuum and its not leaking.
Make sure the AAR valve opens and closes (no air thru) when warmed up (about 5 min). If not use PB Blaster to lube and free it up as its rusts and sticks openor closed.

Set idle when the engine is fully warmed up! Like after a spirited drive.

Geoff

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