what a bitch these things are.
my first -6 fitting, didn't get the end cut 100% square, just a little off. Does this need surgical precision or is close enought OK?
Next blunder, got 1/16" of "push out" as I threaded the nipple in.
Can this really be done with 0 push out?
Can I use this fitting splice as it is described above or should I keep practicing? Any tips?
BTW, I am using a 3" cutoff wheel to cut the hose, the hacksaw blade technique was impossible, frayed like crazy.
thanks,
dr
also, now I see why I need to get some Aluminum AN wrenches, scratched up my new fittings already.
Use the hacksaw, but to prevent fraying, wrap tape (I use electrical tape) around the hose and cut through the tape. The cut needs to be reasonably square, but you do have some latitude there.
I wouldnt worry about 1/16 push out...try pushing the hose a teeny bit more into the fitting before you thread in the other piece. use lots of lube (motor oil etc), also hol one part in a vise and turn the other part
the best thing for cutting hose are http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?pagenum=2155
the 3in cutting wheel method leaves the hose full of rubber and bits of cutting wheel
I fixed the link... but if it doesnt work, go to www.mcmaster.com page 2155 or search for "cable shears" the shears aint cheap but they are the shizzle.. Ive seen similar shears for around $35 at a local marine supply house
wrap the end of the hose tightly with racer's tape. use a SHARP 32-tpi hacksaw blade. a long time ago i bought a tube cutting vise, has a clamp to hold the tube and a set of saw guides to make the cut exactly square. it was expensive then but i have used it successfully for many years - definitely got my money's worth... if i can find it again i'll post a picture - it's not where i thought i stashed it...
you'll still need to clip a FEW frayed strands with very sharp shears. i used moly-based assembly lube when assembling fittings but use some kind of good lubricant. 1/16" isn' really cause for heartburn on a -6 fuel fitting.
Summit has good deal on aluminum Bonney wrenches and has finally (YAY!) come out with an all-aluminum adjustable wrench.
thanks for the tips,
I am going to try a set of those cable shears, if those things work, this will be much easier and neater.
dr
Rich actually the shears I saw at the marine supply place were a real quality tool, however they probably could cut a -8 hose max, limited use for us.. I got my shears from Graybar, mcmaster is a bit more convenient to me now than Graybar is..
I checked mcmaster and grainger, both have shears between $60 and $200 and ratcheting shears for even more.
Will $80 => $100 get me a set that will cut up to -10?
dr
Shear "A" in mcmaster should do you fine 1 1/4" capacity
intersting tidbit, http://www.home.earthlink.net/~kcroussin/id17.html recommends using two very fine hacksaw blades mounted opposite each other in the hacksaw to cut the hose?
btw he also has some good prices on fittings
I use a die grinder (pneumatic) & cut off wheel. Wrap the line with tape and have at it.....but don't forget to clean the shittage out of it. If you can, pack the line with cloth of paper towels right where you're gonna cut & cut thru the whole works. Needlenose pliers will pull the stuff out.....clean anyhow....no matter how you cut it. I've done lots of em and have a zillion pinpricks to proove it.
Then make up a test rig to pressure test em. I use 120 lbs of air and spray with a water/soap mix. Bubbles are bad.
on AN wrenches, I have been using a regular 3/4" on my -6 fittings,
so why are the aluminum AN wrenches sized as 11/16" for -6?
dr
Ayup.
Damned if I know
I'll dig it out and take a pic.
OK, this is for an AN (oops, a double an)12 line.
IIRC, you can get a 1/4 pipe to AN6 fitting and skip the reducer. This one is 1/4 pipe to 1/2 pipe, AN12 to 1/2 pipe, and a AN 12 plug.
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Great tips above. I had good results with the Aeroquip soft vise-jaws, a sharp fine-tooth hacksaw, and the tape-wrap method. I did bogart a few cuts (too crooked and/or frayed)...watch out for those frays cuz they can draw blood easily. Also definitely get at least a basic set of alloy AN wrenches; they will avoid almost all marring of the anodizing. Regular steel wrenches tear the fittings to hell.
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