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Posted by: ripper911 Oct 21 2011, 03:25 PM

For the past week or so I've been having to adjust my clutch every couple of days, the screws are backing off and have to be tightened up again.

The lock nut must not be holding it's spot like it should be.

Should I buy another lock nut, I guess just any other one would work?

Suggestions!

Posted by: BajaXJ92 Oct 21 2011, 03:36 PM

Hell I've got the same issue on my /8 car. Curious as to a solution myself....

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 21 2011, 03:40 PM

What kind of locknut do you have? Nylok or two jambnuts? Is it a new cable? they will stretch a bit. If the nuts aren't moving on the cable, the tube in the tunnel might have came loose.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Oct 21 2011, 03:48 PM

The clutch tube could be comming out, clutch cable parting, clutch dying, or other issues involving pulling the transmission.

Confirm that the nuts at the clutch fork are not moving. Then confirm the clutch cable tube is sound and then move from there.
Zach

Posted by: Drums66 Oct 21 2011, 04:43 PM

.......Yeah!...suggestion's above(they do stretch?)

Posted by: jsayre914 Oct 21 2011, 05:02 PM

I double nutted mine






no pun intended

Posted by: jcd914 Oct 21 2011, 05:07 PM

They should be double nutted.
For what ever reason, nylocs don't stay put on the clutch cable.

Jim

Posted by: jim_hoyland Oct 21 2011, 05:14 PM

When I last required several cable adjustments, it turned out the cable was starting to break. Problem is it breaks behind the round delrin wheel. Grease and dirt get up in there and cause the wire cable to abrade. Not all the wires break at once, but as they break the cable gets a little longer. This area sould be watched

Posted by: SUNAB914 Oct 21 2011, 05:20 PM

Check the tube as other have said, althought i've never seen it myself, a clutch roll pin in the cluster can break as others have said. Check it also?

Posted by: BajaXJ92 Oct 21 2011, 05:41 PM

My car has the 9in clutch kit with the Kevlar disc from Renegade. The pedal is ridiculously stiff and I'm fully expecting the cable to snap at some point. I've got a spare cable in my trunk just incase. Scotty B also suggested the pivot fork might be bending and/or fatigued. I think it's a combination of cable stretch and the nuts on the adjustment. Going to dig into it this weekend to investigate.

Posted by: scotty b Oct 21 2011, 05:47 PM

The curious thing with Adams car is it isn't a gradual decrease in throw, but according to he and the p.o., his clutch just suddenly goes out of adjustment. I had to turn the nuts almost 3/4" to get the pedal back on Monday when he stopped by to pick up a shifter.

Adam, take a good look at the firewall where the cable comes out. That area is known to crack and pull out.I didn't even think about that when you came by.

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 21 2011, 06:07 PM

That tube was not made to handle the force applied by Adam's clutch. He needs a reenforced tube, or a different clutch.

...or the solution we already told him to try as it would lower strain on the tube.

Posted by: BajaXJ92 Oct 21 2011, 06:15 PM

Www.notgonnahappen.com/ever

I still need to look into increasing the diameter of the cable wheel, just haven't had the chance or time. But that's more or less related to pedal feel only.

Come to think of it last time I was under the car I do recall a funky looking gob of rtv near the cable tube exit. I'll investigate in the morning.

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 21 2011, 06:35 PM

I can make up a pulley system to save some strain. I need to draw it up.

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 21 2011, 06:54 PM

I'm pretty sure my nuts are actually moving, I can tell visually.

It happens gradually over a day or two of driving around.

If I get some time I'll try cleaning the grease from the cable and maybe put on a third nut.

Posted by: BajaXJ92 Oct 21 2011, 06:55 PM

That'd be great, especially if it works with the stock cable. I'm going to measure the stock cable and see if I can find some kind of suitable upgrade out of another car. Also keep in mind my trans is mounted 1in aft with the adapter kit, so I'm not entirely positive there's a stock cable in there just yet.

I took a look at the Renegade site and it says nothing about cable upgrade and/or modification with the 9in clutch kit.

Posted by: scotty b Oct 21 2011, 07:18 PM

Wrong forum ya freaky deaky perv

Posted by: BajaXJ92 Oct 21 2011, 07:43 PM

I guess it'd also be the wrong forum to recommend embalming the nuts?

Posted by: Drums66 Oct 22 2011, 11:48 AM

...But of course...most people forget that??

Posted by: kg6dxn Oct 22 2011, 11:54 AM

I use a short piece of fuel hose with a clamp to keep the nut from moving. Installed over the end of the cable threads. Makes for easy field adjustments when needed.

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 22 2011, 04:14 PM

That sounds like an idea.

Posted by: Vacca Rabite Oct 22 2011, 05:28 PM

Just double nut it, like it is supposed to be.

Zach

Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 22 2011, 08:50 PM

That's pretty mickey-mouse, IMHO. Just double-nut the stupid thing and forget it! Easier to deal with than a hose clamp, you just have to have a pair of 11mm wrenches.

--DD

Posted by: rick 918-S Oct 22 2011, 10:26 PM

Double nutting the cable should be all it takes. When your nuts are locked together properly they won't move. I would start thinking about a new cable or check the clutch tube for fatigue at the firewall or at the tunnel mounting bracket. Do it while you can not when it finally breaks and leaves you stranded.

BTW: I have a stage II Kennedy PP with a puck style kevlar disc. I have had to adjust my clutch cable a couple times this summer. I think I may need a new cable soon.

Posted by: 9146986 Oct 23 2011, 06:23 AM

It could also be the roll pin in the pedal cluster. It acts just like that and then you loose the clutch pedal all at once.

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 23 2011, 08:08 AM

It is currently double nutted, I'm thinking that the lock nut isn't functioning correctly.
Or is it just a regular nut and the fact that there is two of them should keep it from moving?

The cars been sitting at the office while I work all weekend, I'll mess with it on my day off tuesday.

Posted by: rick 918-S Oct 23 2011, 09:06 AM

After you complete adjustment and tighten the outer jamb nut against the inner adjusting nut it is highly unlikely they will move or loosen on their own.

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 23 2011, 09:12 AM

So, after reaching the proper adjustment, I should use two wrenches going opposite directions to tighten the two nuts against each other tighter than just running the distal nut back against the other one?

Posted by: brant Oct 23 2011, 09:16 AM

Yes, that is how you lock them

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 23 2011, 09:18 AM

This is the first time this has given me problems, I guess I'll have to grab a second wrench and get to work...

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 23 2011, 03:55 PM

Like the others said, they gotta be tight. Thats why they are called jamb nuts. You'll need 2 11mm wrenches. It helps to grind one down as the proper nuts are thinner than regular nuts, and thinner than a normal 11mm wrench.

Posted by: ripper911 Oct 24 2011, 10:12 AM

Yep, there's a 11mm wrench ground down at my dad's house for that very reason. I think I used to tighten them up against each other but somehow that has slipped my mind, or I just figured that if they were next to each other they would hold.

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Oct 24 2011, 12:29 PM

Are sure the nut isn't stripped or even the wrong size?

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 24 2011, 12:38 PM

Good question. If they are, they won't tighten.

Posted by: maf914 Oct 24 2011, 01:39 PM

Carrying a spare cable never hurts, but you should also have a spare lock nut and clevis. When the cable breaks at the cable pulley, the broken end of the cable with lock nut and clevis get tossed aside. Depending on your location should that happen you may or may not find these pieces in the road. Ask me how I know. . Without those pieces that new cable won't be much help.