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Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 27 2011, 09:55 PM

Having removed the Engine and Tranny. Prep for the car to head to the paint process. I want to remove and rebuild the axle and CV joints.

I can't get them to come loose. Am I missing something?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Posted by: rwilner Oct 27 2011, 10:06 PM

Assuming you removed the 4 12-star bolts, you can try simply pulling on them. I got mine off this way but had to be very aggressive.

The only other way I know of is to remove the castle nut that connects the stub axle to the hub. Then you can pull the stub axle / CV joint / half shaft off as an assembly and separate them on the bench, which is easy. Removing that whole assembly can be challenging with the trans in place due to clearance issues, but since your drivetrain is removed, removal should be a snap.

Removing that castle nut will require a breaker bar, I think the factory spec is 200 ft lbs (or more). Don't forget to take out the cotter pin first!

good luck, and if you need help servicing your CV joints, search "914 cv joints" on youtube for a pair of videos that are an awesome walkthrough.

Posted by: jcd914 Oct 27 2011, 10:16 PM

If you remove the stub axles don't roll the car around much. The stub axle holds the bearings tight on the hub. Without the stub axle the bearing races will shift away from each other and ruin the bearings.

Jim

Posted by: JRust Oct 27 2011, 10:24 PM

I have done some aggressive tapping with a BF rubber mallet. All the while puling the cv in & out aggressivly. Usually it will give. Don't get so aggressive you yank the cv axle out of the bearing case . I have done that but I think that is pretty rare.

I know you are kind of a lightweight . Just give it a little more muscle

Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 27 2011, 10:30 PM

I am pulling and pounding like crazy on these....won't move.

I have pulled all the bolts.

BF rubber mallet hits. I will keep trying and trying......

Stay tuned!

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Oct 27 2011, 10:31 PM

Some pictures might help. Show us what you're banging on.

Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 27 2011, 11:12 PM

ummm, OKAY..............

Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 27 2011, 11:19 PM

Okay, Okay, Okay.....I couldn't resist.

Here is what I want removed and I can't get them out of the trailing arms. ?

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 27 2011, 11:28 PM

Using a rubber mallet in this case is like bringing a straw and some spit wads to a gun fight.

The Cap'n

Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 28 2011, 07:03 AM

So I have asked: What is it that YOU do to get these off. I've tried a couple different tactics. A couple very mean and nasty pulls and hits with BFHammers. Won't come free. I've removed all the bolts.......

So I was asking if anyone had 'secrets' or 'ideas' on what they had doen in the past.

Posted by: nathansnathan Oct 28 2011, 07:06 AM

Here is what I did. It seems possible to do it this way on the car. I'd tried liquid wrench, a torch, and a 1/2" impact socket before this without success. That is a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe.

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 28 2011, 07:31 AM

Put the car on the ground. Engage parking brake or chock wheels so they won't roll. Remove cotter pin on castellated nut, 4' pipe for cheater bar. Stand on the pipe and jump up and down on. It will loosen eventually. Once its just barely loose, raise the car back up and remove the nut. Turn the nut around and screw it back on till its flush with the end of the axle. Smack it with a BFH. Remove nut and pull the axle and stub axle out. Then its a snap to seperate the cv from the stub axle. DO NOT PUT THE CAR BACK ON THE GROUND WITH THE STUB AXLE OUT. When your done retorque the axle nut to 200 ft lbs and reinsert a NEW cotter key. Bend one side of the key over the end of the nut and the other towards the inside of hub (cut if necessary. This method has never failed me. Good luck.

Posted by: rohar Oct 28 2011, 08:13 AM

Just a sec, it isn't quite clear. You trying to remove the half shafts and leave the stub where it is or remove the whole assembled axle?

Posted by: rohar Oct 28 2011, 08:39 AM

If you're trying to remove the axle with the stub, I've done the whole put the nut on backward and hit it with a bfh. I spent about an hour slamming it with a 20 lb sledge. It finally came out, but the car would move about 1" with each blow which was more than a little scary. I managed to foul the threads pretty good too so I had to replace the stub.

After that, I decided the passenger side should go differently. One of these and about 30 minutes and it was out:



Use the round tip and put it in the dimple in the middle of the stub. Shoulder into it and pull the trigger. Repeat until it falls out.

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 28 2011, 08:49 AM

mr.242 - firstly congrats ; ))

secondly - have you removed this nut?

i'm assuming yes - and if so - i think this is what you need help with.

stub axle frozen to bearing.

i guess worst case scenario is you beat the shit out of the stub axle and have to replace it.


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Posted by: stugray Oct 28 2011, 09:38 AM

He is just trying to separate the CV from the stub axle, so the axle does not need to come out.

In fact, I was told (on this forum) that if you pound out the stub from the bearings, you will ruin the bearings.

I dont totally agree with that since my haynes manual actually has a picture of someone driving the axle out with a soft blow hammer.
It does not state that you need to replace the wheel bearings afterward.

Stu

Posted by: jcd914 Oct 28 2011, 09:48 AM

Some will cring at this but...
After the all the bolts on the outer joint are loose or out I usually just take the inner joint raise it up and slam it down, turn the wheel 90degrees and repeat.
Inner joint pops loose fairly quickly.

Jim

Posted by: rjames Oct 28 2011, 09:55 AM

How old are your rear bearings? If you think they haven't been changed out for 30 years, then you might want to go ahead and tear all of it apart and replace those, too.

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 28 2011, 10:27 AM

I might just give that a try next time Jim.

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Oct 28 2011, 10:56 AM

I wrap a comealong around the axel and the trailing arm on the other side. Add tension and tap around the cv edge with a long chisel and hammer. Add more tension and do it again. It will pop off!

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Oct 28 2011, 10:57 AM

Deleted

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 28 2011, 11:09 AM

Another excellent method. Thanks Jeff.

Posted by: Tom Oct 28 2011, 12:47 PM

Call Mike, hasn't he done this?
Pretty sure you can remove the whole axle without hurting the bearings. It is when you remove the hub that the bearings are damaged.
Those nuts can be hard to break loose! With the car up in the air, be very careful applying force to them. Impact wrench would probably be best. Block those front wheels front and rear to keep the car from trying to roll.
Tom

Posted by: stugray Oct 28 2011, 03:21 PM

"Pretty sure you can remove the whole axle without hurting the bearings."

Oh, that's right, the axle slides through the hub, and removing the hub is where you can damage the bearings.

I forgot.
So either my memory isnt so good, or my car has been on jackstands for too long

Stu

Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 29 2011, 11:26 AM

Tried this....feared the trailing arms were going to bend! Didn't come off

I will try the 90 degree slamming...at this pont what do I have to lose

Finally, I only want the half shafts off. NOT the entire stub.

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Oct 29 2011, 11:51 AM

Patience and tap and turn, tap and turn, tap and turn! A long chisel and a 5lb sludge hammer with the come along has worked for me at least 6 times on 3 different cars!

Posted by: zx-niner Oct 29 2011, 12:09 PM

This is how I've done it, especially if you are going to rebuild or replace the CV joints.

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 29 2011, 12:15 PM

The only thing holding it on at this point are two roll pins and friction Stop being such a puss.

Posted by: Mr.242 Oct 29 2011, 12:48 PM

Big and sloppy to be exact. So stop my puss!

Posted by: Mr.242 Nov 28 2011, 10:26 AM

Well they are OFF.

I had to have Mike come over with his impact wrench and remove the entire stub axle. Then pound the crap out of them to separate the two pieces.

All those other methods didn't work and after the fact I learned they were NEVER going to work. But I appreciate the advice and knowledge.

So off and cleaned up. The car is closer to be shipped to the body shop for paint.



Still on track to win this bet of 3rd weekend in June to finish this car!

I just need $$$$$.....

Posted by: 6freak Nov 28 2011, 10:52 AM

he just needed to call big brother with the right tools ...it was easy ...and there not roll pins ....there steel dowels

Posted by: tradisrad Nov 28 2011, 12:10 PM

That is what I've done.
Paint the 1/2 shaft when they are disassembled. Mine are green to match the car...

Posted by: 6freak Nov 28 2011, 01:39 PM

[ the right tools


just so ya know a Dewalt 18V 300lbs torque impact...spun them off dry

Posted by: JRust Nov 28 2011, 02:44 PM

Hey Big Mike is back . I haven't seen you post in ages my friend. Glad to see you helping that slacker brother of yours. Maybe now he can get his 6 done

Posted by: tod914 Nov 28 2011, 04:22 PM

Alittle late to respond. But, after struggeling with this myself on a previous car, found a way that's pretty easy. After your 4 bolts are out, take a long thick phillips head screwdriver and put it into one of the bolt holes and wobble the crap out of it. It will rock the cv joint out. Not too bad to do. I found it easier to slide the cv boot up the shaft, and removed the inner cv with shaft from outward cv, before using the phillips. I suppose either way will work.

Posted by: PeeGreen 914 Nov 28 2011, 06:00 PM

He really just needed to stop being such a Nancy boy

luv ya buddy

Posted by: Mr.242 Nov 28 2011, 08:20 PM

Yea....that was it.

I had my big girl pants on and couldn't get it out.
(That's what she said....!)

You would think 6Freak is a tool salesman who wanted me to buy the impact wrench the way he showed up and took care of the removal.

The car is now stripped and ready to go off to be cleaned up and painted.....

Anyone want to buy a kidney so I can afford the misc. parts I need to put it back together?

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 28 2011, 08:27 PM

Posted by: Mr.242 Nov 28 2011, 10:35 PM

Meaning: the bang the hell out of it. Pull on it with a come-along. Wiggle a screw driver in the mounting hole.

I had to remove the whole assembly. When it was out, I still had a very difficult time to separate them. Thus "I learned they were NEVER going to work". (see above)
Because even out of the car..... It took a great deal of effort to get the metal dowls to release into two pieces.

sorry for any I will work on the grammar and will submit diagrams next time.

Posted by: 6freak Nov 29 2011, 08:55 AM

hi Jamie! Just been lay n low ...busy with home projects ...been see n chiroprator after the Gaylude got deep trunked (totaled) been busy with new DD putting struts and springs ..think i have it squared away now....and getting set up to do my new 2.4 build with side shift trans and TBD $$$ ......Anywho! helping Brother Mark when and were i can! but i told him to do it him self so he see`s every part and can inspect every part for himself and know where all parts go ...I will help more with the assembly of the car ......think`n its going to paint shop Monday the 5th ... back to the show,,,,hes been kick n ass lately on the car

Posted by: jhynesrockmtn Jul 8 2023, 02:51 PM

Thankful to have found this older thread. Just pulled the CV Axles to rebuild them off of my Bumblebee. A ratchet strap on the opposing trailing arm with tension and wiggling in the holes with a drift did the trick. Good thing I pulled these too. One was missing a gasket on the trans side and the bolts were finger tight at best on a few on the stub axle.

Posted by: Geezer914 Jul 8 2023, 03:31 PM

There is a you tube video that an older VW mechanic made on how to remove everything and replace the bearing. Porsche 914 how to replace the rear axle bearing part 1 & 2. He made a home made slide hammer. Ian Karr's video, you remove the 30mm nut and put it on backwards flush with the axle and smack it with a BFH to knock the axle out. Looks like a lot of rust around the washer, soak that area with some PB blaster over night.