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Posted by: ppetion Nov 27 2011, 04:37 PM

I have one of the switch or sensor, i am not 100% sure which one it is. ( it is a 2.0 and mounted on the block by the oil cooler. it does not appear to be leaking, but I am not sire if it would leak when broken.

Anyway, as the PO was trying to take it out, It broke.

1- should I extract it and replace? ( I never extracted a bolt before)
2- Should I just leave it alone and seal it? if so what can I use to seal it?

Posted by: Dave_Darling Nov 27 2011, 06:36 PM

Oil pressure switch. Definitely extract and replace.

--DD

Posted by: jimkelly Nov 27 2011, 06:46 PM

i bought the engine that way but did make a feeble attempt to remove it while engine was still in car.

here is pic - not of thsi engine.




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Posted by: JawjaPorsche Nov 27 2011, 08:20 PM

I broke mine too several years ago while trying to take it out. It is very hard to drill out while the engine is in the car. Plus if you drill it out, there is a very good chance you will get metal shavings in the motor!

What I did was get a very good sheet metal screw with Permatex and screwed it in the hole. Has not leaked since. Of course, yours may have broken somewhere else.

This is not the idea solution but it is a solution to your problem. I will get it fixed properly when I overhaul the motor someday.

Posted by: bigkensteele Nov 27 2011, 11:30 PM

Paul, please post pics of how it broke. Did it break down below the surface where it threads into the case or above? If above, you may be able to use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to grind a slot into it and use a screw driver to extract it.

If it broke below, I would pull the engine and take stock.

Do NOT drill it out and run a tap through it. It is a tapered thread, and if you tap it, you will have a hard time sealing a new one.

Posted by: jimkelly Nov 28 2011, 05:51 AM

infortunately i deleted all my pics of that engine.

but it is broke off slightly recesssed - almost flush with block surface.

you can't see it in this pic but it is the best i have.

jim


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Posted by: nathansnathan Nov 28 2011, 08:13 AM

It's actually a straight thread, though if it were tapered you could just tap it a little deeper if you did bugger up the thread. I'd try on of the square-shaped easy outs, they work a lot better than the twisty ones I think, after enlarging the hole with a drill- just don't go all the way through and chips will not get in.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Nov 28 2011, 09:43 AM

WRONG!!!!!!! It is NOT a straight thread! I won't even begin to guess where you got this erroneous information, but it's now in the archives where it will confuse newbies until the end of time. It's 10mm fine tapered, which is functionally the same as 1/8" NPT. The correct switch will be tapered, as well, and will not use a gasket.

The Cap'n

Posted by: nathansnathan Nov 28 2011, 10:26 AM

The information is from a reliable source. Here is the thread that turned me on to this. I've found responses from Scott at German Supply to be quite accurate. I'll have to confirm in the technical specifications later on, not sure it's in there, though.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412096&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=19

Scott says that the tapered senders that are typically installed are wrong, the original had a straight thread and a crush ring beneath it.
http://germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=17033