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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ adjusting my clutch (what an art!)...how critical
Posted by: jim912928 Aug 14 2004, 09:18 PM
I've searched this site for the tricks on adjusting the clutch cable...lots of threads but I didn't find any that really gave the step by steps that you need to do on both the clutch pedal side and the transmission side. However, several threads mentioned the importance of the clutch stop bracket that is on the pedal board.
I do not have one on my pedal board. Does anybody have a picture of one so I can see if it is something I can easily make?
Also, anybody have the step 1, 2, 3....etc on what to adjust?
Seems like I have to push my pedal completely to the floor to disengage the clutch. I've checked my clutch cable tubes and they are fine.
Thanks,
Jim
Posted by: SLITS Aug 14 2004, 09:52 PM
The pedal stop is to keep from overstretching the cable. It is simply a metal bracket across the pedal hole in the floorboard.
You can follow all the directions you want for adjustment, but I keep tigenting the cable until my release point is about 1/3 to 1/2 the travel from the floor to the pedal resting spot.
Don't currently have an image on file or I would post it.
Posted by: Aaron Cox Aug 14 2004, 09:54 PM
You can follow all the directions you want for adjustment, but I keep tigenting the cable until my release point is about 1/3 to 1/2 the travel from the floor to the pedal resting spot.
Don't currently have an image on file or I would post it.
i agree
depress a 1/4 to 1/3 inch to begin disengaging...and engage 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up 
Posted by: Andyrew Aug 14 2004, 09:55 PM
Possibly new clutch time..
You need to adjust the cable on the trani side...
Grab 2 11mm wrenches (there should be a second nut as a lock...) and adjust the nut on the clutch fork twards the trani a bit...
If your clutch is really bad... it will never be right....
It takes a "special touch" to do it right.. A little bit of trial and error...
Posted by: 9146986 Aug 14 2004, 10:12 PM
It's also to keep from "overcentering" the clutch, or pushing the fingers on the pressure plate too far.
Also if the firewall is weak and flexing at the clutch tube, or if the brazing at the clutch tube has broken and the tube is loose, you'll never be able to adjust the clutch.
PK
Posted by: Joe Ricard Aug 15 2004, 06:30 AM
Makes you miss the bleed it and leave it huh? 
Posted by: ArtechnikA Aug 15 2004, 07:12 AM
the picture in the Haynes is horrible but it's better than the drawing in the parts book.
my quick search through The Usual Suspects' websites didn't turn up a good picture either. it's showing as a $55 special order at Pelican and there is no match on the part number at Stoddard, so i donno who Pelican is getting them from. this is a good swap meet find ... i've posted the picture from a 911 Haynes just to give you a flavor.
the adjustment at the pedal cluster is rarely needed. Haynes says you screw the clevis onto the cable end until 10mm protrudes.
you should have approximately 1/2" - 3/4" free play as measured by pulling the pedal BACK against the pedal shaft return spring. too much free play and the clutch won't disengage - grinding and clashing. too little and you run the risk of the clutch slipping, which it won't tolerate for long.
Attached image(s)
Posted by: jim912928 Aug 15 2004, 10:49 AM
thanks for all the info...today I'm going to go out and adjust per all the input the best I can without the pedal stop...Does anybody have one of these laying around they are willing to part with?
Thanks again for all the help.
Jim
Posted by: itsa914 Aug 16 2004, 02:13 PM
Jim,
If you still need the pedal stop let me know, I have one you can have. I will send you a PM.
Garold
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