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Posted by: Loser_Cruiser Dec 30 2011, 10:20 PM

What is the best method for rust removal on parts that have machined or bearing surfaces?

I have some spindles that have surface rust that I would like to remove but the machined and bearing surfaces are still nice and clean and would like to keep them that way.

Thanks!

Posted by: ThePaintedMan Dec 30 2011, 10:25 PM

QUOTE(Loser_Cruiser @ Dec 30 2011, 11:20 PM)

Posted by: rdauenhauer Dec 30 2011, 10:58 PM

Soda

Posted by: wingnut86 Dec 30 2011, 11:05 PM

No joke, the old guys would say poor coke or 7-up on it.

Same as the soda trick. Straight fountain soda works best. Used to clean floors in a sub shop in the early 70s with the soda...

Posted by: cwpeden Dec 31 2011, 03:12 AM

I took the innner tube from a bike and used duct tape to hold it on the spindle. 3 layers of tape will stand up to most.

I left the tie rod end in.

Posted by: Brodie Dec 31 2011, 10:54 AM

Blast it with walnut shells or glass. Wrap the bearing surfaces with duct tape. The shells or glass won't hurt the bearing surfaces, but I'd wrap it anyways. That should work just fine.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Dec 31 2011, 11:13 AM

We use a product called "Evaporust". Removes the rust, protects the surfaces chemically. Great stuff! Note: Takes the bluing off of gun parts.

The Cap'n

Posted by: rohar Dec 31 2011, 11:21 AM

I'm assuming this is a stub. If you don't have a blasting unit, grab some blasting media and an empty paint can. Use electrical tape to cover the machined surfaces that currently look good then put it in the paint can. Fill the can with media until the stub is covered and put the lid on. Then hang the paint can from a rafter or some other thing that will keep it suspended.

Then duck tape a palm sander without any sand paper to the bottom of the paint can and turn it on. Go away as the noise is annoying. Come back in 30 minutes to your shiny new stub.

Posted by: Brodie Dec 31 2011, 11:36 AM

Rohar,

That is absolutely crazy, but somehow genius at the same time! I'm probably not going to try it, but talk about thinking outside the box.

Posted by: rohar Dec 31 2011, 12:10 PM

Believe it or not, I've bolted a cheep orbital, permanently, to a paint can for just this use. If you fill it with small ball bearings it'll polish the hell out of cast aluminum too.

I've been thinking I should attach the whole mess to an old strut spring so i don't have to hang it anymore, but meh, I've got better things to do.

Posted by: infraredcalvin Dec 31 2011, 12:24 PM

Home made tumbler, GREAT IDEA! You could also look up tumbling media on a site like eastwood to get an idea of what can be used on what type of surfaces. Can be used to clean up nuts and bolts and othe corroded small parts.

Posted by: rohar Dec 31 2011, 02:11 PM

I've got my eye out for a cheep poly cement mixer for similar reasons...

Posted by: dlestep Dec 31 2011, 02:29 PM

For everyone...
Take a standard 55 gallon drum.
Cut retangular port, install piano hinge and latch on side.
Install 2 inch pipe through lid and bottom, centered.
Install standard shaft carrier with sleeve bearings, one on bottom and one on lid.
Terminate shaft-end by welding solid shaft with key.
Install 10" pulley on keyed shaft, using grub-screw locking ring.
Weld or bolt together base frame from two by two steel angle. Base footprint
design needs to be sturdy enough to support assembly and parts...(250lbs dynamic).
Locking sissor frame okay, if sufficient in design.
Install retangular motor mount on frame.
Install two stiff deflector rubber blades 180 degrees apart on the inside outer wall.
Install 120VAC Swamp Cooler electric motor onto mount with 1/4 solid rubber pad.
Install standard outdoor light switch housing to frame and wire motor and install
switch. I used a dimmer switch.
Insert abrasive media, about two to two and a half bags.

Now you can tumble suspension parts or anything that fits in the 55 gallon drum.
I made a smaller coffee can size container inside to tumble smaller parts at the same
time without have to look for them for an hour....