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Posted by: sixaddict Jan 16 2012, 09:58 PM

Any words of wisdom. THX

Posted by: Socalandy Jan 16 2012, 10:11 PM

I'll be watching this as its in my plans!!

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 16 2012, 11:52 PM

1. Check the zerks. I believe they finally switched to a 6x1 zerk which is a good thing. If not, get some because the 5x.8 they were using is too delicate in my book and they can easily snap off when installing (most want to push it to get the angle where they want it).
2. I personally never mess around with the 1/64th bit as suggested in the instructions. IMO its more than OK to simply drill through. The resulting hole is not much larger than the grease groove inside. That tiny bit will just break.
3. Use blue painters tape and mark your zerk locations as per instructions. Have a set of digital calipers available and double check your measurements. They are correct in the instructions. Spot on. I think it comes out to .973??? Measure from the top of the bushing and mark it on the tape.
4. Use a metal punch to make certain your drill gets started properly.
5. Use a drill press if you can. Tip: Install your hubs last, it helps with maneuverability in and around the press (if you go that route). A press will help keep the hole straight in the barrel.
6. Debur the inside with a fine rat tail.

Check your fitment because the bronze will not lie. They may bind a tad. If you can get the shaft through it by hand you should be fine, especially after you lube them up. If not, you'll probably need a new arm which is why you should check that before you drill. Again, a little binding is OK, remember, you'll have a 2000lb car on them.

Hope that helps. I've done a boatload of these.

Posted by: phillstek Jan 17 2012, 12:38 AM

I snapped one of mine just like that.

phil

Posted by: Krieger Jan 17 2012, 08:47 AM

After I installed the bushing in the arm and put arm the car I somehow let the trailing arm fall and both of those zerks were gone in an instant. I was able to replace them with the larger zerks.

Posted by: tradisrad Jan 17 2012, 09:42 AM

McMarks suggestion on removing the old bushings was a lot of help. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=98630&hl=ELEPHANT

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Jan 17 2012, 10:38 AM

I broke two of them.

Posted by: strawman Jan 17 2012, 07:17 PM

Me, too! I upsized 'em instead of putting the little buggers back in...

Posted by: nsr-jamie Jan 18 2012, 07:23 AM

Are you guys talking about the Elephant Racing ones? I just bought those along with the front and plan to install them in the next few weeks....just curious how others are doing this too.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Jan 18 2012, 10:10 AM

Yes.

Posted by: sixaddict Jan 24 2012, 02:25 PM

Great help all.....Everyone helped me not break what ya'll already had...I would be cursin
Turns out I already have plastic weltmeister which is why they are so noisy! Forgot because the arms came with the bushings....

Doing some transmisson/ clutch work as well . ... and looking forward to the "season".

Posted by: pcar916 Jan 24 2012, 03:04 PM

On the fronts, make sure you have ground ( or filed) a little relief in the flange that will butt up to the zerk-fitting. Otherwise the fitting will keep the bushing from seating all the way into the bore of the front collar. Once the bushing is in it's a bear to get back out to correct it without tearing the the poly-urethane.

Good luck

Posted by: Racing916 Jan 24 2012, 04:22 PM

The threads for the grease fittings were different then the directions, so check them before you tap the hole. I went and bought a kit from my local car store and it did the trick.

Steve

Posted by: scotty b Jan 24 2012, 10:26 PM

WHen I did Jim Kelly's car there was some oddball sized fitting in there that my tap and die kit did not have a tap for. I went to Lowes and got new ones