As some of you may know, my '75 (aka The 'BB') was butchered by a previous owner. The car had a tail-shift transaxle in when I acquired it
Even though we converted the car back to the correct side-shift transaxle, there is a shift-rod pivot assembly from an early [tail-shift] car riveted to the firewall. To make matters worse, it isn't even square (not installed quite 90 degrees to the firewall). I was able to bend it somewhat and its straighter than it was, but I still can't install an OEM side-shift type of rubber shift-joint cover on it
Since the drive train is still out, I'm thinking of drilling out the rivets, removing the incorrect shift-rod pivot assembly and installing a PMP shift rod bearing.
1. It looks like the PMP bearing will accept the OEM side-shift shift-joint cover, but PMP's ad doesn't mention anything about it,
... so I thought to ask here, if that is true?
2. How is this bearing installed? (it appears to bolt in)
3. Do you guys shave the OEM shfit rod down to the correct OD to fit the bearing's ID, or just purchase one of PMP's special shift rods? (PART#PMP914RSR)
I did this on my last 914. It was easy to do and worked really well. You will need to maching down your rod to go through the bearing. To install it you need to do some minor grinding but that's really all that is needed. I did all of it with the engine in the car on jack stands to give you any idea how simple it is. However, I would suggest you put it on a lift or having the engine out.
If you ever want to talk about the install I'm happy to talk.
I did this but used the same bearing. Got mine from speedway motors for $25
Bob
The bearing we sell doesn't require any modifications to the rod or the firewall.
Thanks for the replies, guys.
Chris, will the OEM shift boot fit over the OD of your bearing housing? (this is a DD/street car application). I like the idea of not having to turn down the stock shift rod.
You offer World members a 10% discount too, right?
I did this but used the same bearing. Got mine from speedway motors for $25
Bob
Funny, you re-posted at 9:14
I looked at their site, but didn't find it.
I have the Patrick motorsports bearing on my car but i am also running 100% custom built shifter and linkage (similar to the old jwest kit setup) I have not had any complaints with it besides the fact i found out months later that speedway motors carries the same part labeled as a steering shaft bearing for much less money. The quality of it seems quite good, but given your situation Chris's bearing may be a better choice for you.
My forward shift rod has a splined solid front section, then a section of hollow tube, and a short solid section at the rear end where the shift coupling attaches with the cone screw.
I don't see how one could turn down a hollow tube (from 20mm to 18.87mm) when the wall thickness appears to only be a mm or so thick to begin with
Did the early side-shift cars have a different shift rod (completely solid rod) and the late ('75/'76) cars have the hollow tube center type?
...
I know the early cars ('70~'72) that had tail-shifters had a larger diameter rod. When we installed a side-shift transaxle in this particular car, I purchased one of those special 'conversion' firewall bushings from GPR.
I guess maybe my question was a little corn-fusing - I was wondering if any year from '73 through '76 possibly had a shift rod made from a solid bar from end to end (no hollow tube section in the middle)?
I'm just another CSOB, so I was leaning toward the Patrick style of bearing ($25 from Speedway Motors), however, either one requires the shift rod be turned down to .743" (18.87mm).
The hollow tube section is 20mm outside diameter and the tubing appears to only be about 1mm thick. There's just no way this shift rod can be turned down to that dimension.
Since I can't modify the shift rod I have, I may end up going with one of your bearings, Chris ...
Done deal, Chris ... I'll be calling you in a minute
EDIT:
On it's way
OK, Chris's shift rod bearing arrived a couple of days ago (in record time, I might add), and I went to work on correcting the screwed-up shift rod bushing modification a PO had made.
After surveying the firewall from inside the tunnel area, drilled out the rivets that were attaching the tail-shift assembly to the firewall ... (all 26 of them)
Fabricated a plate from T061 to fit in the small recessed area surrounding the shift rod orifice.
Drilled the necessary holes, secured the adapter plate to the firewall and installed the new bearing.
The OEM shift coupling boot does fit around the circumference of the Tangering bearing's housing. It's a tight fit, just stretched it a little to get it on
Thanks Chris ...
Richard wasn't happy with the shifter travel, so I removed the bearing and mounting plate, and took it to a friend's shop to discuss modifications.
We decided to take a little over a 1/4" of material off of the back side of the bearing's housing and increased the diameter of the hole in the mounting plate, then recessed the bearing into the mounting plate.
I did need to hog out the shifter hole in the firewall a little bit
Reinstalled everything and it works great
Chris, this modification eliminates the need to move the drive train rearward
Question: What’s involved to move the motor/trans rearward 1/4” ?
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My six conversion is running the PMS bearing, but back in the day Thomas was doing this mod for us locals. He worked at a machine shop and would turn down the shift rod to fit. I also bought the cheaper part from speedway. This was way before CFR had there stock size bearing. Since all my shift rods are turned down to 1/2” I’m stuck with it. My V8 914 has the CFR bearing. I would recommend the CFR option over the PMS bearing, so you don’t have to turn down the shift rod to 1/2”. The speedway bearing was also designed for a steering shaft, not metal on metal shift rod that goes in and out and spins. Curious if this will eventually wear down the shift rod versus Tangerine Racing Plastic on metal like the factory bushing?
Jim, just assume you won't have to move it rearwards for now.
It isn't difficult though. The mounting holes are slotted.
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