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Posted by: Jeff Bowlsby Feb 12 2012, 02:42 AM

So I am remounting my stock HE's and have a slight exhaust leak. I used new copper nuts, annealed new copper gaskets, anti-seize on the exhaust studs and have them at 130 in-pounds already....(just under 11 ft pounds).

Not sure I should go much tighter...any advice?

Posted by: vsg914 Feb 12 2012, 06:00 AM

Don't have my book in front of me Jeff, but I think its 16 pounds.

Posted by: wingnut86 Feb 12 2012, 06:14 AM

Did you resurface the stock HEs so they are port matched prior to install? If no, you may apply too much torque and pull the studs or break one off.

Clean the ends of the tubes with a light sanding or scotch bright pad. Then take a colored sharpie and color the ring/oval faces of the tubes. Clamp them securely so the top surfaces are level and facing up. Take a flat file that's long enough to even them both out as you pull the file back and forth. Take off the color with the file. High and low spots will still show color till even and flat.

You can use a belt sander that is long enough to span both ports, but only if you use power tools alot and have extremely stable hands. You'll find the leaks gone as you torque the HEs now.

Dave

Posted by: vsg914 Feb 12 2012, 07:09 AM

Whoa on that belt sander Dave! i have probably more experience with belt sanders than anyone on this board. After all, I am a 50 year professional cabinet maker. Thats something I would not even attempt. Besides, a 4 X 24 belt sander (the biggest hand held belt sander) is not long enough to reach both tubes. You'll destroy that heat xchanger quicker than you can say belt sander!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 12 2012, 08:16 AM

I've never found a torque spec for the exhaust studs in the factory manual or the Haynes manual, but I've been told its listed as 14-16 in VW manuals.
That's the standard torque for 8mm fasteners.

14-16 is too much for aftermarket exhausts because they aren't as robust as the factory HEs.
11 generally isn't enough because the fasteners will tend to loosen too easily on their own.

Posted by: vsg914 Feb 12 2012, 08:24 AM

My number comes from Tom Wilson's book, and I'm not sure about that. I come up to torque 2 lbs at a time from 10 to 16 so I can feel if I think its fixing to go to far. I've only snapped one a long time ago this way

Posted by: JawjaPorsche Feb 12 2012, 09:57 AM

After replacing the exchangers, should you drive it and allow the exhaust gaskets to get hot and soft then recheck the tightness? I am new to replacing exchangers and don't know.

Posted by: cary Feb 12 2012, 10:05 AM

I'm with Curt.
Start at 120 inches. And move up 24 inches.
I think most of the time I stop at 14 lbs.

Posted by: wingnut86 Feb 12 2012, 11:46 AM

Curt,

You are correct. I've only used a vertical belt sander for 8 cylinder headers in the old days and balancing work for components.


Hmmm, how much are your hourly rates for a decent set to hide all my shit in my garage

Posted by: vsg914 Feb 12 2012, 12:57 PM

I can build a set cheap. Freight would kill ya unless they were delivered KD (knocked down) on a pallett for you to assemble the boxes and install faceframe and doors.

Posted by: Racer Chris Feb 12 2012, 01:27 PM

Yes.

Posted by: 9146986 Feb 12 2012, 01:29 PM

I check the "plane" of the exhaust ports with a big file. Some guys anneal the copper exhaust gaskets. Stock HE's will seal better than the stainless ones.