Has anyone tried using a spacer under the rear of the Targa top, say about an inch or two to make a vent? Since my top has to be and is bolted down in the rear I thought this might help break the vacuum that forms behind the rear window? I have seen a couple with plexiglass/lexan rear windows with several holes across the width which would do the same thing I think?
No track miles on mine yet, but I did it.
Mine is a vintage car also, and will have a roof.
I Dzus fasten my roof on to the roll cage, so I just made the mounts on the cage tall enough to give it the 1.5 (or so) inch of clearance in the back...
I'm doing holes in the rear window too... but only on the passenger side. I get nervous about pulling or cutting the rear window in half since I suspect the most likely fire location will be on top of the carbs, right behind my head.
brant
The only "fer sure" solution I've seen was an airfoil section (cruved about 90 deg) bolted to the roof , directing the air down to the grill. The guy that had it said it dropped the engine (4 banger) temps 20 deg at track days......the high drag solution
Is rear glass required by your sanctioning body? If not...
then you could *really* hear them Webers sing
JP,
I won't speak for John and his reasons for the mod..
but my reasoning was to reduce drag, and really had nothing to do with forcing air into the intakes....
I'm running no windows and no front triangle window, so there is some amount of air forced into the cabin that I wanted to let out.
The big/serious cars are 1/2 deleting or fully deleting the rear window like you suggest... again to reduce the drag.
My only fear is that I've seen a few fires and they almost always start on top of the carbs (fittings coming loose, etc.) A friend of mine's 911 had one of these fires just last summer.... I was there watching it and it was an awfully big ball of flame. Her engine lid was closed and it was still an awfully big ball of flame. Took the paint off of both rear fenders...
It was put out in 3 seconds or so and the car was driveable, but I was surprised at how much damage to the paint had occured in 3 seconds.... Got me to thinking that I might want something (even if it was just a piece of lexan) between my head and a fire like that...
I think the scoop Idea is a good solution for intake air, but at the cost of creating drag.... I just wanted to reduce drag.
brant
Thanks for the input. The reason is just to break the vacuum behind the window. I was the one that JP probably was thinking of with the curved air deflector as my stroker four ran a tad warm. The 2L six on the other hand runs really cool. At the race in Tecate, with 95 degree air temps the oil got to 200 max. I did notice that when I blew the four last year at the CA Speedway at full speed, the cockpit filled with oil smoke immediately (really hard to see) and I imagine a fire would do the same. I somehow think this is related to the low pressure area we have and if it could be eliminated it would be nice. As Brant does, I plan to keep the windshield and roof and cut it off to make a roadster.
I can't think of a way to eliminate the low pressure area short of turning the thing into a roadster. Any type of ducting or airfoil is only a partial solution, me thinks.
John:
The guy with the air foil was a local guy....great minds & all. The cooling he got was what he was after and served to indicate that he also got more air back to the lid.... but prolly not to the rear window. As to smoke filling the pilot house.....It seems most all racin' cars fill that spot first when sumthin' goes bang....even open cockpit cars. Some kinda Darwin thing maybe
How about a Gurney flap at the end of the roof?
I saw this at Ventura
Attached image(s)
I saw a device on "This old house" you might be interested in. It's made to drill holes in wood at a 45' angle, so you can use screws to do butt corner joints. I don't remember what it's called, but it gives you a constant repeatable angled hole. Drill the hell out of your roof. It will still give you shade. And with the holes angled toward the back of the car, the air flow over the top of the roof will draw air from the cockpit. I have no idea how much unwanted upforce it would generate. Just a thought.
now that looks like a good idea (this version is quite ugly) if it went all the way across and somehow blended into the roof better (more subtle) why would you use something straight on a convex surface??
i have an extra targa
"New Directions in Race Car Aerodynamics" Auth: Joseph Katz
Check Amazon
How about a vortex generator on the roof? Its a series of vertical wings, or triangular ramps that are higher at the back. These create miniature disturbances that cause airflow to stay closer to a surface, especially if there is a big notch in the back, like a sedan.
See page 3 of the PDF
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate/about_us/technology/review/e/pdf/2004/16E_03.pdf
The picture is an aircraft VG
http://www.avweb.com/news/reviews/182564-1.html
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I guess I misread or misunderstood the original post
Are you running without side windows?
Close them... problem solved
some orgs make you run with windows down
As Seanery noted, I have to have both windows open. I think most organizations in the US require that they be fully down.
Here is a picture of the Mitsubishi Evo MR's vortex generators:
In my case as a vintage car:
I'm allowed no naca ducts,
no spoilers (not even a front special edition valance)
no cut outs in my hood
no cut outs in my roof...
no nonstock apperance items.
nothing that looks or helps aero.
I am allowed to lighten the car, remove glass and improve driver comfort...
Removing all the glass, mechanisms, and max lightening my doors did save #60lbs...... quite a bit actually.
I'm sure that I added drag by having the windows out, but it would be an oven in there to replace them with plexi....
thus the reason I'm exploring methods of venting some of that air.
I heavily modified my top so it is more of a skin than a full roof panel. It no longer has the thick mounting area on the back, so it already is stood up from the chassis that amount (about 1.5 inches)
brant
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