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Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 4 2012, 09:45 PM

I started a new thread for the re build of the Turbo wankel project.

Here is a link to the begining.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113156

With a little help from my Brother and Son, we got the car into the garage and I tore the engine out. It took a little over an hour to pull.



The turbo looks ok. It's a little dirty but I can't see any knicks in any blades. Shaft play is minimal and it spins wirh air without drag or noise. I will have to take it apart to find any further signs of damage.



As expected, I blew the apex seal of rotor 2. The white specks in the picture is where the seal should be. There is very fine grit in the exhaust port. Rotor 1 looks fine. Time for a rebuild or JDM crap motor. I will have to look at my budget, A rebuild is 2-3 times the cost of a JDM motor. Either way, all the components will bolt on. There is a chance if I go JDM, that I will have to modify the engine brace for different motor mounts.



Here's some pics of the package...

Posted by: Andyrew Mar 4 2012, 11:02 PM

Aaaand subscribed

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 4 2012, 11:19 PM

It will be a miracle if I get it going by WCR. Butt I'll try!

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 12 2012, 08:31 PM

Progress!

I found an out of work guy that just totaled his Rx7, 2000 miles after he rebuilt it. His Loss, my gain.



The motor mounts are different, so some fab time this weekend will ge it fitted. Most every thing else will bolt right on without massaging. I need to find a 54mm socket so I can swap the flywheel and counterweight. I may have it running by the end of the weekend.



The motor has a mild port and was assembled with early (better) rotor housings. Note the early NSU Wankel License. I also swapped the crank angle sensor since the plug matches my EFI and I know it works. I do need to slightly grind down a tab on the old water pump housing to clear on this engine.



The main difference on this engine is the oil injection pump. The old one was an electronically controlled stepper motor. The new one works via a cable connected to the throttle body. My TB has a connection point for cruise control, so I will fab up a custom bike cable to operate it. Should be simple in theory

Look like I will have a running 914 for WCR 2012!!!

Posted by: Rand Mar 12 2012, 08:41 PM

I'm stoked for you. I've been anxiously anticipating you getting this beast back on the road. Can't wait to hear more.

Posted by: Andyrew Mar 13 2012, 08:54 AM

Wooot!!

Posted by: matthepcat Mar 13 2012, 09:12 AM

Congrats Mike. Good Karma kickin in for all the help you have provided other folks on the board.

Posted by: Lennies914 Mar 13 2012, 05:41 PM

Great news Mike.

Are you saying that the apex seal passed through the turbo without causing any damage?

If so, not as bad as you anticipated.

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 13 2012, 09:00 PM

It looks like the carbon apex seals exploded into dusty grit.

Anyway, got the adapter,flywheel,clutch on the new motor. Mounted the freshly sealed and painted tranny. Yes, painted... So what... I plan to get it dry fitted into the car and look at the cross bar mods. I hope to keep both engine mounts on the same cross bar. Looks like it will work and will allow the reuse of the blown motor once it gets rebuilt.

Ordered some gaskets and still need a new banjo fitting. I love progress!

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Mar 13 2012, 09:24 PM

Wow you got motivation!

It looks like you and Lennies914 might pull this off and be driving again soon!

Lennie drove his car to my house today so he can convert his garage back into a spray booth!!! All that is left is the hoods, door and engine cover!

It is nice to have two nice teeners in the garage again!



Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 13 2012, 09:47 PM

Here is the engine mated to the tranny... I only had to pull off the upper intake manifold to remove the engine. And, that was only due to the lack of a proper lift. All accessories will bolt on before reinstallation.





Here you can just see the tab on the black water pump housing I had to grind for clearance. The later oil pump cover has a divot to clear this tab. This is a common mod when using this setup. The main advantage is the mechanical control of the oil meetering pump. The electronic control I was using is a POS. The guy that sells it is too hard to get hold of in Austrailia. So the simple cable setup will work every time.

Posted by: Lennies914 Mar 13 2012, 10:03 PM

Was it the controller you are unhappy with, or the stepper motor itself? I have some good quality stepper motors if you need one.

Posted by: strawman Mar 13 2012, 10:34 PM

Why not just pre-mix like a two-stroke engine? That way you know you're getting lubrication no matter what. Or would that gum up the spark plugs?

Either way, I'm subscribed!

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 13 2012, 10:45 PM

The problem with premix is when you forget to mix. Also, at low rpm you get too much oil. At idle, they tend to smoke too much. Eventually, I will draw injection oil from a seporate tank. This will allow the use of "smokeless" 2 stroke oil and not engine oil. I will premix a little unilt I'm satified the system works correctly.

Just ordered remaining parts from Summit. I think I have everything I need to get it running this weekend. It all depends on what needs to be re-engineered first.

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 13 2012, 10:47 PM

The controller never worked correctly. It was either wide open or closed. I could not get any customer support from the guy that makes them 10 at a time.

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 16 2012, 11:30 PM

Well the engine will be in this weekend but it wont be running. The primaty fuel rail will not work. Time for a custom fuel rail. I have the rail stock (3 feet), but drilling and tapping is a PITA on aluminum. I might send the tapping out to a maching shop. That will prevent me from having to build the rail multiple times. This fiasco will allow me to finally install my 1000cc primary injectors. right now I'm still running the stock 550cc primary with my 2000cc secondary injectors. This will require some fine EFI tuning but nothing too bad.

Here is the fuel map. The primary injectors function like a normal injector up to 1.7psi. At that point, they maintain a steady pulse width up to 30psi. At 1.7psi, the secondary injectors start to pulse and increase pulse width with pressure and rpm. This is normal for a rotary to use this injection staggering. I will reduce the pulse width below 1.7psi by 40-60% across the map to start tuning.



Here is the map in 3D...



The original engine I have is from a JDM car called a Enus Cosmo. This engine has a better plenumn and intake for torque than a standard Rx7. The new engine is from a USDM 89 Rx7. I have noticed that Mazda made these engines with 10 different versions of every part. maybe that is why they are so expensive. No consistency= $$$$ tooling costs.

Bottom line... It will fit with little mods. So far just a new fuel rail and rework the motor mount locations. I will be able to add braketry to the existing engine bar to accept these engine mounts with little effort. And the old mounts will remain for the other engine if needed. Compared to all the fab I've done, this seems minor.

I will drill and tap the plenumn to accept 2 meth injectors. Not sure if I'll have the meth working by WCR. Have to watch my car budget. But It will be set up for it and I'll add components as funds allow. If the meth is not functional, I will dial down the boost for a while. I will still have a 400% hp increase over stock...

Posted by: JRust Mar 17 2012, 01:36 PM

Nice Mike. Glad to see you flying on your car again. Lookin good my friend

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 17 2012, 10:42 PM

Got the engine and tranny mocked up. I use aircraft stripper on the bar. Found some 1/4" stock and 5/8" DOM to fab the mounts. The original mounting point on the passenger side had to be trimmed to fit around the new one. Got it all welded up and it fits both engines.



From the rear you can see how asymetrical the new mounts are. I think in the Rx7 this is done on the passenger side for turbo clearance.





Anyone can fab up a cross bar since the transmission locates the assembly. I hope this inspires some new unusual conversions.

Rotors are rusty from sitting for almost a year...

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 17 2012, 10:44 PM

Glamour shots...

Posted by: wingnut86 Mar 17 2012, 10:46 PM

That might be the 1st RUST I've seen on a Cali car...

Posted by: falconfp2001 Mar 23 2012, 01:13 AM

I read both your threads tonight and I'm now a big fan. Back in 1984, My second car that I bought was a 1974 rx-4 coupe. That thing was wicked fast stock. I ended up installing dual exhaust headers, hi flow mufflers and I re-jetted the stock four barrel. I had a very good Mazda mechanic tune it then cut the front springs and install Koni's all around. The rear was a leaf suspension so I installed stiffening bars. Back then, I would blow away stock Porsche's no problem. It had a stock 4 port 13B with stock 4 barrel that I re-jetted. I would scare people with how fast I drove that car.

Later (1987) I bought a second generation rx-7. I never changed a thing on that car and it was fast. Handled like a dream around corners. Just had my mechanic tune it and that was all.

In 1994 I purchased a 1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup. Rebuilt the 13B, re-jetted the stock 4 barrel and installed a rx-7 5 speed tranny, Racing Beat intake and Dellorto side draft carb. Also put on a Racing Beat Exhaust headers and dual exhaust to the rear with nice mufflers. Had 8 inch front wheels and 11 inch rears. I also found a LS differential for it. Fastest car I ever owned. I could chirp the tires in second gear and redline in second was past 60. Never really found out the top speed of that car but it was quick and so much lighter than the others.

I so wish I could find another truck or Rx-2, rx-3 for a good price but they are really expensive now. Always wanted to turbo one just to see the potential as I've been a big fan of those engines. The only negative is the MPG. They suck down that gas if you have a heavy foot.

I'll be watching with interest.

Posted by: ChrisNPDrider Mar 23 2012, 03:32 PM

Great news Mike!

WCR is a long shot for me because work has me on for Saturday in Point Reyes.
The 914 gas tank I bought from you has performed flawlessly

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 23 2012, 06:37 PM

Thanks guys!

I got all the misc pieces and AN fittings to build my fuel rail. Started mocking up my aluminum hard line while the engine/tranny are still in place. I will drop the engine this weekend and assemble everything. Maybe... It will run by Sunday...

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 25 2012, 09:27 AM

Minor set back. As described before, Mazda has 10 different versions of the same part. My old intake manifold will not match up correctly. I'm now sourcing new intake manifolds and TB for a Turbo II rx7. Otherwise I have to take both engines apart and combine parts. Time to get everything together except the missing parts and put back in the car.

I may be bringing parts to install at WCR to get this thing going.

Posted by: matthepcat Mar 25 2012, 02:25 PM

Sounds like its time to use some vacation days

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 25 2012, 08:00 PM

No, I'm using those for WCR. I will be there with or without a running 914. Either way, the car will be trailered.

Going for a semi custom intake setup. I bought a series 5 lower intake manifold and a series 6 upper. This is a common swap/upgrade for the Rx7 crowd. Picked up a new TB also. Just need them to ship and arrive.

In the mean time I fixed an alignment problem with my alternator pully. Got the lower half of my of my oil metering pump linkage. It is a combination of a Lokar and Spectre throttle cable parts. Turbo is back on the manifold and mounted on the engine. I have a T3 to T4 adapter that always came loose. So, I installed it and tack welded the bolts. The turbo bolts have lock washers and are easy to re-tighten on the motor.

We'll see when completed if this "cheap" engine is actually cheaper than rebuilding.

The future good new is... The intake housings on my blown motor and the exhaust housings of my new motor are the "better" parts to have when rebuilding. The intake ports of my old motor are much larger than my new one. The same goes for the exhaust but reversed...

At some point the car will come apart, get blasted, fix all the PO's goober welding and get painted. At that time I may rebuild the engines into one monster HP machine.

Until then, I will be happy just to get it running. I assume the EFI tune will need some tweeking too. Looks like the lap top may come to WCR as well.

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 27 2012, 09:49 PM

Engine ready to go back in...



You can see the start of the primary fuel rail. I decided to use part of an existing rail. 12mm to -6AN fitting and aluminum hard line. Regulator will mount at the end of the hard line.

Posted by: kg6dxn Mar 31 2012, 11:18 PM

Got the motor/tranny in. Exhaust on. I had to clearence the turbo down pipe a little to clear the new manifold. Radiator return line replaced; Got damaged while loading onto trailer. Got the lower water pump line macked up to the radiator return line. The upper line remained unchanged.

Now I have to figure put if I'm needing any other little things to get this going. More assembly and pics tomorrow.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 1 2012, 10:29 PM

I got everything under the car assembled today. Ready to take the car off jack stands. The rest of the work is from above. I may need to adjust the shift cables before I can drive it. Now I can focus on the intake and fuel.

Posted by: matthepcat Apr 2 2012, 01:24 PM

Lookin' good. You might be able to drive down to Monterey.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 7 2012, 11:45 PM

Got the fuel system done today. Fired up the pump, fixed a drip and viola...

Cold air box is back in. Lower intake manifold bolted on. All the linkage for the TB and oil pump done. I made a custom bracket for the two cables and modified the TB linkage to pull the oil pump lever when the TB opens. Seems to work great.

I'm waiting on some vacuum hose before I can finish bolting all the intake parts in place. Going to fill all the fluids tomorrow.

I should be running and tuning by next weekend.

Posted by: strawman Apr 8 2012, 12:53 AM

Congrats Mike! Glad to see you're making progress, and I can't wait to see the car at WCR2012.

Geoff

Posted by: oldschool Apr 8 2012, 01:34 AM

great job dude....if I wan't shooting a web TV show about my Rotary 914 ...I would of been on the road by know...I will be checking up on your ride.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 8 2012, 08:34 AM

I want to see your build video. Where is Lucky & Racing? I think you need a build thread here with teaser photos to promote your TV show.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 8 2012, 09:24 AM

The new upper intake mocked into place. The new TB has a water connection for cold start. Hopefully, it warms up better, although it worked fine before without it. I am waiting for the TB snorkel to connect to the intercooler. Even without it, I can get it running and tuned without boost.





The oil filler tube needed modification. It hit the new TB. I have a plan to make it work but i'm waiting untill the final bolt down of the manifold.



I had to replace the hose on the right. I got damaged while loading the car on the trailer. I changed the transition piece from threaded steel pipe to thick wall copper. I found 1.25" radius elbows. one 90* and one 45* with a T in the middle for the heater connection. This will connect the radiator return line into the water pump inlet. I'm not a big fan of copper but this seemed like a reasonable compromise and it flows better than the threaded piping. This is the only copper in the system.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 8 2012, 09:42 PM

Got the Terrycable clutch cable in and the throttle cable finished up. The pedal area gave me a hard time with the accelerator connection. The custom cable end has a set screw for the ball with a cotter pin. Set it and forget it. Setting it was a PITA. But, it will never pop off! Ever! No pics so you just have to imagine my fat ass under the dash.

Didn't have as time today due to the holliday.

Here's a better pic of the copper transition piece I made. The T is brass with a threaded bung. The 1/2 nipple goes to the heater in the fresh air box.

Posted by: oldschool Apr 8 2012, 09:57 PM

In Daurte Ca....yeah

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 13 2012, 10:39 PM

Engine is back together!!!

Tomorrow:
Add fluids (water, oil, gear oil, intercooler coolant)
Bleed H2O system
nut and bolt everything
recheck clearance on moving parts
adjust clutch
adjust shift linkage
adjust muffler level to ground
connect ECU, program for larger injectors
crank to prime oil system
install spark plugs
fire up
check for leaks

DRIVE!!!
adjust fuel and spark to new engine configuration
DRIVE!!!







Old manifold for reference...

Posted by: JRust Apr 13 2012, 11:05 PM

Nice Mike Hope the drive goes great

Posted by: Cairo94507 Apr 14 2012, 06:31 AM

Cool! I hope to see you cruising around town Mike.

Posted by: Lennies914 Apr 14 2012, 08:09 AM

Way to go Mike. Looks great.

Posted by: Rotary'14 Apr 14 2012, 10:26 AM

Your rebuild looks even better!,, I can't wait to see it run.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 14 2012, 08:36 PM

Got it running and out on the road.

The tune is close but it will take a few days to dial it back in. The first thing to attack is the transient throttle; kind of jumpy at zero throttle input and cruising.
The new primary injectors are really big so some tweeking is in order.

I'm tired time for a beer!



Starts with no throttle input.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ag1lXenmUk?

Posted by: Rotary'14 Apr 14 2012, 08:39 PM

that was quick

Posted by: jsconst Apr 14 2012, 10:07 PM

That awesome, glad you were able to get it going. Can't wait to see it run.
Sounds like you'll be ready for WCR. It's nice when hard work pays off

Jeff

Posted by: JRust Apr 15 2012, 12:09 AM

Way to go Mike . Wish I could be at WCR to go for a ride in it. Congrats bud

Posted by: slothness Apr 15 2012, 12:23 AM

Love the sound, this car is going to be a beast. Nice work Mike.

Posted by: Lennies914 Apr 15 2012, 07:43 AM

Love that "shit eatin grin" on the video.

It just says "yeah, it's fast!"

Posted by: ruby914 Apr 15 2012, 09:47 AM

Love that sound. Looks sooooooo fun!

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 15 2012, 10:39 AM

Thanks for all the encouragement!

oh, Lennie, It is fast!

Time to tweek the tune a little. Got to get on the freeway and see if it will still put your head back in the seat in 4th gear as it quickly aproaches (and exceeds) 100mph

Posted by: matthepcat Apr 15 2012, 08:09 PM

Sweet. Hope to see you spank my v8.

Btw do I see some new projectors retrofitted into your headlight housings?

Matt

Posted by: Andyrew Apr 15 2012, 11:36 PM

Woo Hoo!!

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 16 2012, 08:35 AM

Running way too rich right now. O2 says I'm at 8.1 @ 10psi. Time to tune down the secondary injectors. Looking to be around 12 @ 10psi. I'm starting by reducing pulse width by 25% and see what happens.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 30 2012, 10:57 PM

Well WCR was the first real outing with the turbo rotary. I think it's too radical to be streetable. Too loud. Too much fun. But ultimately no suited for my driving style. Hammer on!

I think Andrew has talked me into another swap. 1.8t and tranny from an Audi/VW. On the hunt now! Thinking of buying an entire car to pull apart. Maybe an entire harness swap. Couldn't be that hard. At least it will be all German again.

Anyone need a rebuilt 901 with an H gear? Need to finance my next swap with parts from the old swap.

Stay tuned for part 3...

Posted by: Lennies914 Apr 30 2012, 11:12 PM

Why not de-tune it?



















And then do another car with the 1.8t for the wife.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 30 2012, 11:18 PM

I need something more reliable like my V8. Nothing really is as relaible as a chevy V8 but I want to enjoy the car and not be worried everytime I take it out. Looks like I may have a buyer for the first blown engine. If I can unload the rest of the drive train, it will finance the swap.

I can't leave well enough alone...

Seeing the green subie driven from Idaho is plenty of motivation. I would never drive this combo that far.

Posted by: Andyrew Apr 30 2012, 11:18 PM

OHhhh Man!



Thats exactly my thoughts as well, pull the entire harness and start from scratch... You could even keep the climate control system.

I think a megasquirt system is what you might want to go with though.. Unless you want to spend $900 on tuning software and license.. If you do, Get a drive by wire car as they can adjust more parameters and you can run a MAF less file.

Also the AEB head (early) is a large port head and flows better out of the box. They also have bigger wrist pins, but you should upgrade your rods anyways (if you plan on running more than 350hp).. Cheap insurance and thats ALL you need to touch on those 1.8's...

034 motorsports will be your friend if you like spending money They can dyno tune really well.

Posted by: Rand Apr 30 2012, 11:29 PM

It doesn't get any nicer than an LS1.
Too common? Psh. I think you are ready for it.

Posted by: kg6dxn Apr 30 2012, 11:34 PM

LS1 is cool but too much $$$ when you price the adapter, ECU, etc... The best LS solution is the smag legal crate motor. Still $8k complete plus $1k for the adapter. At that rate, I might as well go 3.6L. Which would be cool but I really cant afford to fix a Porsche 6.

The Audi/WV needs no adapter, is smaller and I can use the factory stuff if I pick up the whole car. It's not the first time I stripped the harness and motor out of a donar car.

Posted by: Rand Apr 30 2012, 11:40 PM

$9k for a lifetime bulletproof mega powerplant doesn't sound bad. Just sayin...

Posted by: Andyrew Apr 30 2012, 11:48 PM

Neither does 3k.. Oh and you can part out the rest of the car. Spend the part out money on going through the engine, Making it bulletproof. Also gears are interchangeable through the many years so he can mess with the ratio's and do what he wants.. Or just run a 2.8 trani and have a bit longer ratio's. (I have a 1.8 trani from my car that I wore the syncro's on first and the 2.8 trani from my parts 2.8 car in the backyard, I'll be mixing the gears in the 1.8 and 2.8 to make a nice autox/track car for gears 1-3 and 4/5 will be cruise gears.

Posted by: Rand May 1 2012, 01:48 AM

Think about it. What do you want in the end? (Considering everything... Cost, reliability, performance, longevity, brute HP potential, etc.)

Rotary has HUGE potential. No doubt about power to weight. But for brute power and reliability and longevity and drivability, and... LS1 is a no brain3r. (Really, who figures there's a better engine for the money?)

Audi would be another new adventure.... And the same potential. Hmm. Go go go go!!!

Posted by: dakotaewing May 1 2012, 08:28 AM

Um... $9k???? I can get a Trail blazer SS aluminum block 5.3 from the junkyard locally for $750... That motor is right at 300 HP with no improvements - At 9K you should be close to 500+HP with an LS2/930 combo - Just saying...

Posted by: kg6dxn May 2 2012, 11:12 PM

Look what followed me home today. Can you say donor car???

2000 VW Passat, 1.8 Turbo, 5 Speed, Chipped ECU, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, bunch more goodies. The guy hit a 1 foot by 3 foot piece of concrete on the freeway at 1am. The right front wheel took most of the blow along with the rocker panel and rear wheel. The bumper and intercooler were also damaged. Engine runs good and is driveable, but the two wheels and tires are wasted! The guy is out of work and sold it to me cheap. Real cheap!!! Some of the interior was sold prior to my purchase. Hence the lawn chair drivers seat.

The Plan:
strip apart the harness wire by wire and get rid of what I don't need. No biggie, been an electrician for over 20 years. Decide if I want to keep gauges, info display, etc...

Install the engine/tranny package. Get it running as is but with my air/water intercooler. Then decide if any other mods are warranted. The engine should be good for 200hp as is.

Sell off current engine, ECU, 901, etc... I sold my first blown rotary for $500 yesterday. Who would have thought there was a market for blown engines???

This time I am using the factory VW ECU and components. No custom programming. I may get it tuned once complete and see if there is any more easy hp inside. At least I don't have to invent the wheel on this one.

The intake and exhaust on this engine are on the same sides as my current setup. Nice! This is a throttle by wire so the pedal will have to swap too. The clutch master cylinder also.

Other than some interior bits, this is a complete car. I should have most everything to pull this off.

Goal
Have it in running condition by WCR 2013!

Is there a record for the most engine swaps for the same car?

Stay tuned for part three of my build!!!

Posted by: Andyrew May 2 2012, 11:50 PM

YEEEAHH!

You wont find any more HP than whats in that tune. The ECU and engine self tunes itself on the fly, maxing it out.

You'll really wake the engine up when you swap turbo's. (They have "eliminator" turbo's that bolt on to the stock exhaust manifold...)

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=VVWTK

http://www.ringer-racing.com/category.sc?categoryId=32

Throttle by wire is good IMHO.

Posted by: jeeperjohn56 May 15 2012, 05:03 AM

Hey Mike, The old lady next door is going to have a cow with your new adventure. John

Posted by: kg6dxn May 15 2012, 10:55 AM

It's in the garage right now. 914, still under rotary power is in the driveway. I'm almost ready to pull the engine. Going with a boxster tranny. Same except the 100mm flanges and set up for mid engine cable shift already.

Posted by: Andyrew May 15 2012, 11:28 AM

Boxter trani, Well that blows the budget right out of the water

6 speed or 5?

Posted by: oldschool May 15 2012, 11:45 AM

So ...what are you going to do with the Rotary

Posted by: Rand May 15 2012, 02:20 PM

Psst. Hey. Ecotec 1000hp, smaller displacement. Ready by next WCR.

Posted by: kg6dxn May 15 2012, 03:28 PM

See you on the track!

Posted by: Rand May 15 2012, 03:34 PM

I was hoping you would bring that. That's how you roll after all!!
This Audi stuff is just an in-betweeen. Don't tell me you don't know that.
just some friendly ribbing Mike. Can't wait to see what you do next. Because there is more than Audi...... :hmmm:

Posted by: kg6dxn May 15 2012, 04:05 PM

Whatever I get my hands on. See if I can work a deal with Parts Heaven. See them on ebay from $400-$3200(Boxster). Same VW trasnny $300-$1600. Same Audi teanny $800-$2400. All the mounting points are similar, The differential, hubs and gearing are different but similar. The mounts have to be fabbed anyway, so any will workk. Boxster looks like the cheapest in the long run if I include my fab and engineering time. The key is bolt on shfiter, no fab or engineering. Exact same bell housing. 100mm flanges that will bolt up to my 911 CV's. I just have to figure out axle lengths once its in.

So it will be mostly Porsche with a little Audi to keep it interesting. This version will be a ~250hp, factory reliable motor. I intend to keep the MAF sensor and I found a Lambda converter to scale my wideband O2 0v-5v output to the 0v-1v input to the ECU. Should run even better in closed loop. 034 Motorsport is going to reflash my ECU to remove all the equipment I removed from the car. No limp mode, unless an active sensor triggers it. ODBII will still have access but my read modified.

Al at Parts Heaven asked me to bring the car as is to the swap and show in June. I'll drive it there and back then pull the drive train. Selling off the rotary stuff and H gear tranny. If you want anything PM me.

Been busy on the donor car. Stripped the wiring out wire by wire. Once you get the interior out there are a shit load of wires to pull. I started with the radio and speaker/amp harnesses. Easy to spot and took out a lot of wires. Switched to the tail lights. followed those to the front and removed. Then air bag, abs, AC, interior lights, wipers. I was left with some relays, fuse panels and misc extra wiring. I then pulled out a schematic and got it down to the EFI, Steering column and gauge cluster. It still runs!!! Its ready to pull out compleatly. Should be an easy transfer. I'm keeping the gauge cluster. It needs a little trimming to fit the stock dash, not too hard. Then I get to keep most of the idiot lights and dash comoputer that says "STOP Low Oil Pressure". Turn signal and high beam lights should work too. I might even be able to get the traction control to work if I fab sensors to the wheels.

Hers a couple pics of the stripped dash and wiring...







Here's a pick of my getto intake tube, just used to verify the car was running throughout the operation...

Posted by: Lennies914 May 15 2012, 05:46 PM

EJ25D with 5 speed

Too much time on CL while the site was down.

Posted by: kg6dxn May 15 2012, 05:52 PM

This is going to be a throttle by wire install. In this pic of the pedal, there are only 3 bolts holding it to the bracket. Should be an easy transplant, 6 wires to run to the pedal area. I will have to fab a hydraulic clutch. Looks like I have donor parts, but I might go with a Wilwood master cylinder.

Posted by: kg6dxn May 15 2012, 05:57 PM

I know what you mean.

That green 914 from Idaho motivated the change. I would never driven the rotary that far. It makes a better race motor than a street motor.

I'll see if I can drive it to Moab one of these days.

BTW, Nice score! Subie... doobie... doo...

Posted by: Lennies914 May 15 2012, 05:58 PM

Mike, Have you considered using the pedal assy. from the VW? Could even keep the power brakes.

Posted by: Lennies914 May 15 2012, 06:01 PM

Didn't mean to hijack the thread,

It inspired me as well. I've got some crazy ideas bouncing around.

Posted by: kg6dxn May 15 2012, 06:08 PM

I am considering it. I could tie front brackets into my roll bar cross tube. The fresh air box would need to be removed or heavily modified. So would the front firewall. Not sure about the power brakes on my 930 calipers. They work great right now. Why fix it? Will most likely mont a master cyl next to the existing brake master. Seems like an easier solution?

Posted by: Lennies914 May 15 2012, 06:46 PM

I'm thinking of cutting out the entire front firewall and welding in the fire wall out of the suby. This would alow me to utilize the pedal assy., heater, a/c, dash
, and all. According to the tape measure it's all doable.

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 6 2012, 08:59 AM

Any update?

Posted by: kg6dxn Jun 6 2012, 09:39 AM

My back's been too fuched up to do much. 1.8t is ready for a new timing belt. Hope to pull the engine out this weekend. Maybe...

Looks like the K03 turbo has lots of shaft play. Need to upgrade to either a K04 or GT28. Can't decide. the cost difference is minimal, leaning to the GT28. Looks like I have a buyer for my 901. That should help finance the project.

Need to stock up on DOM tubing for the engine cradle.

Overall progress is slow. Doctor says I have a pinched siatic nerve (sp?) Need to take is easy for a while. Waiting for xrays to come back with final results.

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 6 2012, 10:04 AM

If I can sway you... The GT28 is an AMAZING turbo for that engine... I ran a GT28RS aka GT2560 on my APR stage 3. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks.


Also you can run that turbo like that for quite a while... They came from the factory with shaft play.. You could do the popular "frankenturbo" Similar to the GT28RS, little less HP.

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=73255&title=frankenturbo-kit-&cat=20

Just keep in mind, if you do a turbo upgrade you'll be looking at injectors, ecu/tune, fittings, ect ect..

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-151&Category_Code=VVWTK
This is an "eliminator" turbo, it eliminates the need for a custom exhaust manifold. So therefore its technically bolt on. Just supply a fueling solution.
You could get your own injectors and Maestro tune it. There are lots of people with tunes that you can use. Or you could have 034 tune it.
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=72946&title=maestro-tuning-suite-and-ecu&cat=20


http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers-and-accessories-turbo-kits-complete-longitudinal-18t-eliminator-turbo-kit-software-fueling-p-17552.html
Heres same kit with O34 providing tuning solution.


Your looking at 2k+ even with used injectors and tune.. You might be able to find a used kit cheap. I see them every now and then.

Personally I'd run the stock turbo for a while and save up till your bored with the power. They generally have quite a bit of shaft play. Does it hit the housing?

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 6 2012, 10:06 AM

Also, Ouch on the nerve.. Hope you feel better!

Posted by: slothness Jun 6 2012, 10:13 AM

Yikes! Take it easy there Mike. We all know your just going to yank out this motor after you finish and start another crazy build on the same car.

Posted by: McMark Jun 6 2012, 12:09 PM

My understanding it that the K03 shaft is supported by oil. They feel 'looser' than a bearing turbo when unlubricated.

But if you need a place to dump that K03, hold on to it for me.

Posted by: wingnut86 Jun 6 2012, 12:28 PM

What a great idea on using the Subie firewall. After all, that steel was recycled from boat loads of scrap shipped from the US, which was initially tons of German bugs and vans scrapped for use in American K-Cars built by Chrysler in the day.

Kind a makes sense to repurpose it, yes?

Posted by: kg6dxn Jun 6 2012, 01:43 PM

You may be correct. it is a little loose when you wiggle the shaft.

You got first dibs...

Posted by: kg6dxn Jun 6 2012, 01:45 PM

Maybe I should buy more 914's? On for every possible engine combination. Although, I think I'm done after this swap.



Here is a link to part 1
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113156

Here is a link to part 3
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=187914