I got this direct to metal aluminum body filler thinking it was a good way to go.
After seeing some of you Pros, no filler body work, I just can't get satisfied with my work.
On top of this car being far from dent free, under all 5 layers of paint, I am sure I could have welded the flares on a little cooler.
I am getting experience and learning a lot by doing things more than one time.
After using the aluminum filler, I started tapping it from the back side and blocking it out.
I can't expect to have no filler but I had more than I was happy with.
I am now wondering if this direct to metal filler is a good product to start with.
Prime with the 5 star primer then fill with the glaze, prime again and paint.
Attached thumbnail(s)
When I did a rolling resto on my 73 2L in April/May 1980, the body shop used a similar aluminized-poly body filler to patch some rust areas on the area below the sails - instead of the lead method or welded steel patch that I'd requested & paid for.
Those rust areas started bubbling back within a couple of years!
While their compounds may have improved in the past 32 years, IMHO it's still better to do the welded sheet metal patch method (nobody does Leading anymore due to toxicity, etc. - although Porsche Classics in Germany still does leaded seam seals on their in-house resto's.).
As far as use for body filler to smooth areas, maybe ScottyB, McMarak, Rick 918S, etc. who are the bodywork guru's can speak to that usage direct to metal.
I'd still be concerned that the filler on metal then primed over it, might be prone to holding moisture under your primer/sealer rust protection coat. That aluminum filler has to have some polymer (plastic) matrix material to hold the aluminum particles & stick it to the sheet metal, and those polymers can absorb & hold some water content.
And in Hawthorne - being close to the beach - you do have moist salt-rich sea air coming in daily!
I haven't seen all metal in many years and it's good if applied correcty. It's all in the prep guys and yes it pays to hammer and dolly your panels as flat and contoured as possible. That way,
when you apply fillers. You're only using a skim coat of it, blocking it down using
finer and finer sandpapers then primer. You'll find after mixing several batches,
you'll get the hang of it....
All metal is a good product but don't expect it to fill holes and be water tight. Solid weld everything. Grind, bump and file as best you can. Nothing wrong with using filler products as long as your not abusing them.
Thank you Rick,
Every day, I think I have just about got it. I wake up the next and do 50% better.
Every new tool, makes it that much easier and better.
More and more time makes it better.
I spent a lot of that time respecting your work. Didn't know when to call it soup.
Time and $$$. I am starting to understand.
I didn't want to pay that much, now I am doing the time.
Thanks
Excellent metal work Rick!!!!
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)