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Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:15 PM

Well I figured its time to start documenting the rustoration of my 1973 1.7L.
This car was bought for and used by my oldest son to drive thru 4 years of high school in Montana.
You have to realize in Montana kids can get their license at 15.
I think we only put it on the trailer twice in those 4 years.

It was bought on Ebay. I think the closing bid was $1600. So off he went with his Grandpa, the truck and the trailer.
Then I get the call. Dad they lied .............. it does have some rust.
So here's a 15 year old negotiating a Ebay deal gone sour with the owner of tow track company.
So I told him to take inventory of the parts that we could use. Then make him a offer. So after handing him 10 $100 biils it was loaded on the trailer.

So me at 55 decided that I want to rebuild this car to be my daily driver for next 15 years.
It started out to be a quick tidy up and repaint. But we all know how that goes.

I have $1400 worth of new interior that James did for me. All bagged up.
I just received my $3300 order from Restoration Design.
I have a $1600 list for Mark at 914 Rubber.
So I figure I'll have $9000 into a car that might be somewhere in the $7000 range when I'm done.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:27 PM

Here's were we're starting.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:29 PM

Here's the floor

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:33 PM

Here's the left side longitudinal opened up.
The muffler was in perfect condition.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:38 PM

Here's the trunk.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:39 PM

Here's the Hell hole.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2012, 10:45 PM

Here's the floor pan on the rotisserie.

Posted by: wingnut86 Jun 6 2012, 11:46 PM

I see some good metal here and there

Pull James' interior out of the packing every now and then so the carpets don't develope wrinkle seams - if it takes longer than 12 months that is.

That and Mark's rubber kits get fresh oxygen and prison exercise every 6 months in my garage, since the timelines to finish have stretched soooo much

A rotisserie, welder and Resto Design parts are always a sign of good progress...

Good Luck,

Dave

Posted by: cary Jun 7 2012, 06:45 AM

Thanks for the words of wisdom.

Posted by: cary Jul 23 2012, 09:37 PM

Well finally getting back too it. AXing and family car repairs took precedence.

First I thought we'd give it a hot shower.

Posted by: cary Jul 23 2012, 09:41 PM

Then I layed out my RD order ...............

Posted by: cary Jul 23 2012, 09:51 PM

I'm tearing into the drivers long.
It's going to be some work. Back 8 years ago we kind of claubered it together to get it on the road for my oldest son. More welds and more metal was better.
It was square and stiff. But at a price. But now trying to get it back to normal will be some work.

Because of all the extra welding finding the spot welds is a bit tough.

Posted by: cary Jul 23 2012, 09:55 PM

Yes, I cut it open with a disc and a sawsall.
I wanted to be able to see the bottom seam. It was really over welded.

Posted by: cary Jul 23 2012, 10:01 PM

Super In-Law is building a jig to line up the four corners and keep it square.
One inch square tubing.
The door braces are good.
And we have the measurement from the targa bar to the windshield frame written in a couple places.
But we'll need to remove the suspension ear on the passenger side. So making preparations.

Posted by: cary Jul 23 2012, 10:11 PM

Did have one mishap.

I tore the sun visor pad as I was taking it out to remove the windshield.
Looks like the dumbass windshield tech glued it in when PO changed out the windshield.
Should have left it in when I cut out the windshield. Lesson learned.
Would have had a better angle to look at it.

Oh yeah, ran out of wire and gas for the welder. Dandy.

Consumables. I now know it takes 45 seconds to use up a cutting disc on my 4 1/2 inch grinder. Took 3 to open up the drivers long.

Posted by: cary Jul 31 2012, 06:37 AM

Here's Super-In Law finishing up the bottom keep it aligned frame.
When we're finished I think I'll add some legs and wheels and use it as a body dolly.

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2012, 09:26 PM

Finally finishing up the body jig.



After that rolled it outside to start sand blasting the bottom.
98 degrees in PDX. A little too warm to get a bundled up for sand blasting.
Gave it a couple hours. Made some good progress.
I'll get after it again in the AM.

Posted by: cary Aug 21 2012, 07:02 AM

As I'm really beginning to disassemble the car.
It would be nice if we had something ( Thread or Forum ) that showed you how to remove body parts without damaging them too much.
Maybe going back to the Body Work Forum idea.

Must common locations of spot welds.
Was it spot welded or tack welded?
Tools used.
I going to try and restore this better than new. Primarily focusing on sealing it up so the restoration will last 20 years.

Just a thought. This car is tough. We WAAAAYYYY over welded it to get it on the road for my son to drive to high school. Never thinking we would be taking it apart to restore.

Posted by: cary Oct 14 2012, 09:48 PM

Taking a time out to finish the rebuild/restoration of the Better Engineering parts washer I bought last winter.

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 09:08 PM

Today's plan was too put new wheels on it.
Wasn't rolling at all.
So we laid it on the lift to work on it.

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 09:09 PM

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 09:12 PM

Double Post

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 09:14 PM

Well finally got back to work.
Opened up the drivers long so I could get to work.

Posted by: wingnut86 Oct 15 2012, 09:15 PM

Ooh, new toys! What's the plan for her?

How old is she?

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 09:30 PM

Looks like its going to take some recreation.
I have a new passenger side to design from.
The primary question being where to cut.
Then where to tie the new dual layers back into the old.





Oh yeah it would help if I could figure out the depth on the spot weld cutter.

I just switched to the HF cutter and drill bits. They work pretty well.

Posted by: wingnut86 Oct 15 2012, 09:34 PM

That looks like Africanised bees have taken over in there.

Any honey for your troubles:-}

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 09:51 PM

Don't really know. In talking to the folks at Better Engineering. They think its a 200HD. No serial numbers on it.
I've got the motors back up and running. I'm going to order two new heating elements, new contactor and new door seals.

The plan. Just plan on using it when I need to clean parts. That's why I wanted to get the wheels working. Push it in the corner when not at use. They say the detergent will hold up for 6 months. Then add a little detergent to strength the solution.

Just kind fell into this one. Surfing Craigslist. A guy was getting out the the transmission rebuilding business. Bought for $500. I'll have another $400 parts and paint. I'm a tool/gadget whore.
This is the only way I could ever afford to own one.

Posted by: cary Oct 15 2012, 10:03 PM

Its going to be a tough road.

With the over welding we did when we first put in on the road ten years ago. And the fact it was a front clip repair somewhere back in the day. The longs are pretty tore up.

Haven't quite figured out how I'm going to tackle the lower half of the driver long. I saw Jeff Hail mention using the top half of a passenger long. I held it up. Hmm. Maybe.

Posted by: cary Oct 16 2012, 06:11 AM

Worst part. I still couldn't find all the spot welds on the outer long tab that goes behind the body next to the jack point hole. Part of that debri you see on the left side is still part of the outer long.

Posted by: cary Oct 18 2012, 10:53 AM

Well I headed out to shop for a mid week evening shift.

Weapons .........



Safety equipment so I can live fight another day.

Posted by: cary Oct 18 2012, 10:55 AM

Just in case I do something stupid ...........

Posted by: cary Oct 18 2012, 10:59 AM

Here's what I'll need to somewhat recreate ...........



Thats the new passenger side that I have from RD.
Hmmm......

Posted by: cary Oct 18 2012, 11:06 AM

If you have enough weapons you can do just about anything ..........
So I started cutting away..........
Here's where the back half ended up.

Posted by: cary Oct 18 2012, 11:21 AM

Here's the long all gutted. Didn't have to bugger up the heater tubes too bad.
They didn't ever plan on taking those heater tubes out when they designed the assembly line process.

I love the front door post one the best. Welded on the backside......
The engine compartment I just use the air chisel with a sharp edge.



Here's the fine craftsmanship I found in the front clip install sometime in its life.



Now I'll have some pondering how I'm going tidy that up.
Seems odd that the back side patch had little or no rust. Just some surface stuff.

Looking for some advice I guess ........

Posted by: cary Oct 18 2012, 11:24 AM

Or just mix up some JB weld and we're good to go ........... LOL.

Posted by: sixnotfour Oct 19 2012, 01:06 AM

West Coast Labor of Love.......I say that because there are way better starts for less than all the RD sheet metal you bought.

Posted by: cary Oct 19 2012, 05:55 AM

I know ......................... I have 2 of them.
Let's just say, I'll learn alot.

I just hate throwing things away. I've already crushed one.
Some of it is, that it was my oldest son's high school car.
And I just love taking things apart and putting them back together.
But this is kind of taking it to the extreme.

And I've always taken on the hardest project first.

Posted by: jersey914 Oct 19 2012, 06:51 AM

Looks like a serious challenge! A bucket of holes........Good Luck!

Posted by: FourBlades Oct 19 2012, 08:00 AM

Nice work!

They are all worth saving if you enjoy the work.

John

Posted by: cary Oct 19 2012, 08:23 AM

It's my complete disconnect.

I've managed supermarkets for 30 years.
I spend 50 plus hours per week with 100 employees, 15,000 customers and 600 vendors.

Now that I'm getting all fired up. I think I'm going to forgo the PCA autocross tomorrow and continue with figuring out how I'm going to recreate that structure on that driver side long.

Posted by: cary Oct 20 2012, 08:11 AM

Saturday morning .........................

Should be a fun day. Going to shoot the color on the parts washer.
Its a Ford tractor blue. Its really going to pop when it lays down on the parts washer.

I did start another thread last night looking for some pictures of the corner under the door hinge post, The front three layers on the long.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=196524

Bob and Mark hooked me up. So after I shoot some color on the on the parts washer I'll begin to start designing the parts.
Coffee and pondering.

I have odd day off this week. Wednesday. So I might spend some time at the fabrication shop to see what they have for weapons. I need to buy another sheet of 18 gauge any way.

Posted by: cary Oct 20 2012, 08:30 AM

I forgot to mention. If you want to practice painting. Using VanSickle implement paint is the best.
Its old school so it takes 12 hours to recoat. But its cheap and it lays down real nice.

I am lucky. The shop I rent is way out in the country so I don't have any issues with the vapors and smell. But I don't want to wear out my welcome. I'm only going to shoot epoxy primer and parts here in my paint shack.
The owner of one of Portland's major auto paint suppliers lives about 5 miles away. So when it comes time to shoot color on the car I'll take him up on using his gillion $$ paint booth.

Ryan's coming up from Silverton to dial in a pile of MPS's and tweek his car tomorrow. So I'll be able to shoot another coat tomorrow if need be.

Posted by: cary Oct 20 2012, 05:02 PM

Got the first coat of Ford blue on the parts washer.



My painting shack



Paint station

Posted by: cary Oct 20 2012, 05:06 PM

Out into the light of day...............



Even though its cheap paint. It teaches you to keep the gun moving. And how to tinker with different pressures and settings to get the atomization your looking for.

Posted by: cary Oct 20 2012, 05:11 PM

While I was painting Super In-Law was tinkering with the lathe I bought last month.
Do I really need it ? Probably not. I wanted more for fixing than making.
But at $300 I couldn't pass it up.
Tool Whore.



Aligning the pulleys

Posted by: tscrihfield Oct 20 2012, 07:07 PM

That's a viper-jet washer! Used to have one... Good piece of equipment!

Posted by: cary Oct 23 2012, 07:12 AM

Did some phone work on Monday. I was hoping to catch a passenger long before the holes were punched/cut out. Not to be. They just did a run of 56 pieces. The gentlemen that stamps them out said it would be over a year before the next run.

So back to using both ends of a passenger long flipped upside down. Or seeing if I can get the fabrication shop to create the piece I need.
I'm thinking of replacing the bottom completely. Working around the pressed area for the hand brake. My biggest concern is creating the lip to spotweld the outer long too.
On the upright portion I'm thinking of going right to the edge of the big oblong hole.
What is that hole for? Didn't we determine it was a form release or something like that?



If I can get the shop to create the piece I'll probably have them make 6 of them just in case I need them in the future. We'll see.

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 08:18 PM

Wednesday the 24th.

Started the day by putting the second coat on the parts washer.



In my heated paint booth ..................... LOL

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 08:24 PM

Started by surveying the rust at both ends of the drivers long ..............

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 08:27 PM

Front end ...............



Look what I found under the jack point ...............

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 08:32 PM

Then I start the carnage ................

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 08:38 PM

Getting my moneys worth from my cutting wheels......................

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 08:55 PM

First I cut off the bottom ..............



Still amazes me how crappy the workmanship was on that front clip repair
back in the day..................

Then I cut thru the first layer to remove the seatbelt nut .............



What that shows you is what happens when you don't use weld thru primer.
What you see is that portion folded down after I cut only thru the first layer.

So I cut off a portion on the inner box layer. The rust was primarily isolated
to the bottom.

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 09:07 PM

Then you see where the day ended ................



Cut out the rotten portion of the long wall.
I know some will say that I'm probably being too critical and should just Ospho and paint.
But I plan on using this car as my daily driver here in Portland. So with all of the rain here in PDX I don't want to have
to restore it again for another 20 years.

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 09:24 PM

You can see in this picture our cheater bar.

Back 10 years ago when we were prepping the car for my son Robert.
We installed a portion of angle iron between the front wall and the floor crossmember.
It served us well. I haven't decided if I'll replace it with a stiffener kit or leave it for sentimental reasons.

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 09:27 PM

As you can see the car isn't liking hanging upside down.

Posted by: cary Oct 24 2012, 09:29 PM

Here's a shot looking into the wheelhouse.
Whats the best practice of rustproofing this cavity?

Posted by: jersey914 Oct 25 2012, 04:31 PM

I have a simple question! Because of all the steel patchwork, is there any concern for an unequal weight balance in the vehicle?

Posted by: cary Oct 25 2012, 05:35 PM

Good question...........

We'll see when it goes on the corner balance scales.
The passenger side was done in the same manner so in that regards its balanced.
Both sides have the piece of angle iron in them.

Posted by: cary Oct 26 2012, 10:49 PM

10/26/2012

Stopped by HF to pick up consumables. Spot weld cutters, 7/64 bits and cutting wheels.
Took a look a set of shrinker stretchers gadgets. I need that to create a couple layers on the bottom of the driver side wheelhouse.

Then I headed out to the shop to tinker. I spent the evening filling in my overzealous spot weld holes. And drinking Ryan's beer.

Super In Law really has my 90 amp MIG welder dialed in. Had a great evening .........................

Posted by: cary Nov 7 2012, 07:41 AM

Stopped by a garage sale and found some new lights for the shop.
$30 each. Transformers are nice and quiet.
Didn't work much last winter. Didn't have enough light.

Posted by: cary Nov 7 2012, 07:42 AM

Let there be light .........................

Posted by: cary Nov 7 2012, 07:44 AM

Now a guy can work at night ............. After work.

Posted by: cary Nov 7 2012, 07:50 AM

Now back to work .....................



What have some some folks done to seal up the sail panel cavity so we don't get debris up in there.
This is looking at it hanging upside on the rotisserie.

Posted by: wingnut86 Nov 7 2012, 08:55 AM

Wow Cary,

Friends and family can no longer call it "Cary's Dungeon"

Next thing you know, one of those make-over crews from the cable channels will be hanging fru-fru curtains and gaudy sconces (sp?).

Quick man! Squirt some Dino oil on those bright surfaces

Note to self: Never let the kids stuff Playdough in the seams of my teener

Posted by: cary Nov 7 2012, 08:21 PM

I'm not getting too much flash rust. They've been sitting like that for about 4 months. Go figure.

But my compressor generates about a pint every two weeks. In Montana I only generated a cup every year.

That's why I built the paint tent. So I can roll the car in there and shoot epoxy primer as I finish up a section.

Posted by: cary Nov 11 2012, 11:04 PM

The more I look at that drivers long. The more I'm thinking about changing it out. I have a couple members looking to see if they might have what I need.
If that doesn't come thru. I may rework a new RD passenger long. It wouldn't have the handbrake indentation. But it would be new and a correct fit. Thoughts ................

Super In Law bought a Lenco Panel Spotter at a garage sale yesterday. Got a hold of Rick and he gave me a couple hints.

Waiting for my new heater elements and contactor to show up from Better Engineering to finish up the parts washer restoration.

Posted by: cary Nov 14 2012, 08:12 AM

Here's a picture of the panel spotter being tidied up and the connections checked.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 09:43 AM

I decided an amputation is in order.
Heading to the shop to cut out the drivers long.
With what I've already invested in the restoration. It would be a shame not to do it right.

The monsoons have begun here in PDX so I don't know when I be able to finish the sand blasting. Kind of waiting till the floor pans come out.

I still have 2 members working on a couple driver long pieces. But if that doesn't come to be I'll do the RD passenger long flip over. I'm going to double check that a couple time before I cut. Wish me luck.

A little music, a little beer and some rain on the tin roof. Should be a relaxing day.
Oh yeah ............lots of sparks flying.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:21 PM

Well whats the going rate on a 3 1/2 hour surgery?
Went pretty well.



A little cutting disk, a little new plasma cutter and a little air hacksaw.
Back end cut off.

Now to figure out what goes where.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:29 PM

Now to disconnect the firewall/hell hole ....................





Air chisel takes a little practice to use. It can tear stuff up pretty fast.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:33 PM

Here's a shot up the rear suspension long.
Showing the inner box stiffener.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:36 PM

Now for the front end.



Outside shot.



Inside shot.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:39 PM

Now 3 1/2 hours later ................

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:52 PM

Now for the bad news. I didn't look at the passenger long close enough. The top and the bottom front corners aren't the same radius.

So hopefully I'll be able to come up with a drivers long.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:55 PM

So on to the floor pan removal.

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 08:57 PM

Heading home .......................

Posted by: cary Nov 18 2012, 10:11 PM

Tomorrow I'll start on the passenger long.
Should go pretty easy now that I'm all schooled up.

Posted by: wingnut86 Nov 19 2012, 05:41 AM

Cary,

Who did you buy your spot weld drill bits from, and what's the cost?

How many shots do you get, in other words, before they are worn out...
Thx,

Dave

Posted by: cary Nov 19 2012, 08:47 AM

HF......................
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=7/64

The trick. Speed. They say high speed. They wish.
As you can see I use a De-Walt 12v to drill with. I use it in the #2 speed . The first couple holes are the most important. Don't push too hard.
To answer the question, I'd say maybe ten. But if I don't get a good cut on the first hole. Dump it. .40c each.
Chinese junk. But the Irwin bits aren't much better. I tried those too.

Posted by: cary Nov 19 2012, 09:23 PM

Well decided against moving on to the passenger long.
Don't want to detach both sides at once.

I do have confidence in my measurements and bracing but I don't want to push my luck. LOL.
With that being said. I'm going to build a couple new door braces. This time with Hiem joints. I don't like what I see when its flipped over on the rotisserie.

Posted by: cary Nov 19 2012, 09:32 PM

So I moved on the recreating the bottom corner of the front inner fender where it ties into the long.


Shows prior repairs from 10 years ago.

Posted by: cary Nov 19 2012, 09:37 PM

Here's where we start.



This is going to take some creativity.
Some lap welds and some butt welds should get me where I want to go.

Posted by: cary Nov 19 2012, 09:41 PM

Using some of Mark's work as a pattern.
I'm taking a bigger bite. But the picture gives me a good start.

Posted by: cary Nov 19 2012, 09:46 PM

First attempt with the shrinker we made the apex of the corner too tight.
Won't give me a tight enough fit for spot welding.
That's were the day ended.

Posted by: cary Nov 25 2012, 09:24 PM

Holiday festivities are over. So we had a couple hours to head out to the shop.
So I decide to relocate my door braces to the inside of the door. Kind of a Jeff Hail location. That way I can have the door braces to adjust the distance and the door to measure the fit.
Oh yeah. Decided against the Hiem joints. The ones at the farm/horsey store had too much available travel.
Ended the night with needing a little more 1/2 black pipe.

Posted by: cary Nov 26 2012, 09:40 AM

Had scheduled a short vacation to work on the car. Hoping to get a good jump on things.
But after deciding to completely change out the long. Things aren't going exactly as planned.
So Super In Law is reworking the door braces and I'm finishing up the parts washer. Off this am to find a couple needle bearing for the rotating tray sleeve, the power washer store for some parts washer soap and the electrical supply for a new 12 hour timer for the heating elements.
Hopefully the parts washer will be up and running today.

Posted by: Socalandy Nov 26 2012, 05:39 PM

Great work makes my rust repairs look like a cake walk.

Posted by: cary Nov 26 2012, 11:06 PM

The parts washer lives.
Have a small leak at the pump union. I'll reset that tomorrow.
Could see the table turning and hear the jet streaming water.
Heaters fired up. But didn't leave them on long enough to fully determine that they'll heat up 65 gallons of water.

Thanks Andy. It's ended up being a little more than I planned on. But it's all about building an Oregon daily driver. Lots of Ospho, POR15, Rust Encapsulator and epoxy primer is in the future.

Posted by: cary Nov 26 2012, 11:23 PM

I guess its going to be a Popsicle. White with blue bumpers, wheels and rocker panels. The 914 mate to me Carrera 3.0RS clone.

Posted by: cary Nov 27 2012, 09:16 PM

Well the heater elements work great.
The turntable motor gave up the ghost after about 1/2 hour.

I'll stop by this little electric motor shop after lunch tomorrow to see what he can do. I can buy a new one on Amazon. So all is not lost.

It did work pretty cool while it lasted.

Changed my mind on the Heim joints. I'm going to build something like Chris makes. But mine will be inside the door. Welded a 7/16-20 nut on the inside.

Posted by: cary Nov 28 2012, 10:05 PM

Steam coming out the vent pipe.

Posted by: cary Nov 28 2012, 10:08 PM

Clean up day at the shop. Hadn't really tidied up the place since taking apart the project.

Posted by: cary Nov 28 2012, 10:19 PM

I did finally find the oil leak in the Cadillac. Probably had been there for 15 years. The oil cooler line coming off the filter flange was about an 1/16 of a turn loose. Drip, drip, drip. About a quart every 2000 miles.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 10:30 PM

Well getting back to it. Removed the engine tray we fabricated 10 years ago.
Now to get the right suspension console and engine mount ready to remove.
Removed the MPS bracket. That will allow us to get at the upper spot welds on the console.

Console looks to be in pretty good shape. A little pitted where we covered it with patches.
Can't get into the brake line bracket spot welds. That will have to wait.
The engine mount is going to be tough. Looks like it was removed and seam welded somewhere in its past.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 10:56 PM

Woke up last night and read 18 pages of "engine console" search.

In doing so. I decided that the upper wheelhouse will not be removed. Its not that bad. Just need to tidy up a couple deep cuts I created when I removed the battery tray.

Was thinking the inner engine long might be saved. I kept looking at all the patching that everyone has done.

It would just take too many patches to get back to good clean steel. I have some really bad rust on the inner layer all the way up to the engine support. To me it's just too important to the structural integrity of the entire car to not change it. Hopefully my grand kids will be driving this car long after I'm gone. LOL.

Posted by: cary Dec 3 2012, 11:09 PM

Installed the new door braces. Complete with Heim joints.
Works like a charm. Much better. Holds the setting, even upside down.
The 7/16-20 threads work real smooth.

Posted by: cary Dec 3 2012, 11:35 PM

With the new braces installed and dialed in.
The frame jig was removed so I could get at the engine and suspension console.
Off came the engine console.



As you can see it has some extra ventilation.
Another manufacturing error. Why didn't they seam seal the top?
You should have seen the debri that came out from behind that thing.

I guess its official name is, engine mounting.

I'm thinking that's it's repairable? I think I saw Mark rebuild one.

Posted by: cary Dec 3 2012, 11:41 PM

Next is the removal of the suspension console.
Can I get some hints and BTDT's on removing the reinforcements that are lapped over the front and rear suspension consoles?

Posted by: cary Dec 3 2012, 11:54 PM

I also chiseled off the seam sealer on the outer fire wall seam in about 15 minutes.





This was all done with the air chisel. A tool that Jeff Hail turned me on too.
First words of wisdom. 1. Don't cover up the vent hole with your thumb. Kills the pressure. 2. When you hear the tone change. Stop, you've hit a weld.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 12:26 AM

Started by going after the reinforcement pieces.
Followed the most common procedure. Cutting the reinforcement in half, right on the seam.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 12:34 AM

I now know why no one documents the suspension console removal.
Its kind of like doing a Civil War battlefield surgery.
Who wants to take pictures of that?





The console has been removed. Had a tough time finding the last few spot welds.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 12:38 AM

Not in too bad of shape.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 12:41 AM

Looks like I'll need a little recreation.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 12:59 AM

I was surprised how nice it looked under the console.



After looking at the wheelhouse. Surprised how bad that corner had rusted.
But I suppose that was the closest corner to the battery vapor run off.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 10:34 AM

Off to more spot weld drilling.
Taking off the outer console today.

Hopefully my little tool store will have some 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 replacements for my RotaCut spot weld cutter. If they don't, he'll order them for me.

They broke because I got pissed that my HF cutter wasn't cutting deep enough. So I tried to recut with the better cutter. Caught an edge and it snapped off.

It looks to be a copy of the Blair. He has Blair replacements for the standard (NAPA,HF) cutter on the shelf. So he can probably get both.

One more cup of coffee and off we go.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 10:38 AM

Oh yeah,

The replacement drivers long is coming together. And I have another member working on a pair of engine mounts also.

Inch by inch ............. Shooting to be done by the WCR in June.

Posted by: FourBlades Dec 10 2012, 11:22 AM

Nice work!

You are getting there.

Should be good for another 40 years.

John

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 09:41 PM

Thanks John ..............

After the stop at the tool store.




Last picture shows the broken 3/8 cutter.
The shop was out of 3/8, but I did get the 1/4 and 5/16's.
Spent $20 on each package of refills.
If I remember correct. I think the original kit was about $80.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 09:45 PM

Here's where we started today ............... Outside half of the suspension console.





Cart full of weapons .............

Posted by: wingnut86 Dec 10 2012, 09:49 PM

Hah!

And my wife complains when I have 2 a/c grinders, 2 portable drills and 3 or 4 air tools on my tool cart...

I'm sharing your image with her

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 10:03 PM

First reinforcement is removed ...........



What I found was, it seems its best to cut out the material. Then come back and cut and grind off the weld. The trick being not cut into the piece underneath. Missed a couple spots. But I'm getting the hang of it. Be patient.




Seems I'm using the cuttings wheels and grinder in all kinds of positions.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 10:10 PM

While I'm taking off the outer console.
Super In Law is working on the fit of the inner console to the new inner wheelhouse.

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 10:27 PM

Well after about 3 hours of work the outer console is off.





I'm a little more optimistic after I found these two consoles in pretty good shape.

I left the outer console sprayed down with Ospho.



I'm real happy with the Rotacut spot weld cutter. I followed Perry's input. I dipped the cutter into a cup of cutting oil. Cut the hole about 1/2 way. Blew out the hole and the cutting tip. Then finished cutting the hole. It cut like it was a milling machine.

Real impressive. It was a good day ................

Posted by: cary Dec 10 2012, 10:31 PM

I was thinking today I might need a couple more grinders.
I need both a cutting wheel and a grinding wheel with and without guards.
Might need a couple more Makitas .......

Posted by: cary Dec 18 2012, 01:59 PM

I have a drivers long (Perry), pedal box (Bruce) and a pair of engine mounts (Warren) coming.
Hopefully I can back to work New Years weekend.

Posted by: NARP914 Dec 18 2012, 04:59 PM

Great work, nice to see another car being saved.

Posted by: cary Jan 5 2013, 08:30 PM

Perry's drivers side long has arrived.

Posted by: jersey914 Jan 5 2013, 08:56 PM

Posted by: cary Jan 6 2013, 07:28 PM

Here it is .................



Perry did a great job of packaging. It arrived safe and sound.

Posted by: cary Jan 6 2013, 07:39 PM

Dis-assembly begins ...............





Started with removing the portion of the rear door jam.

Posted by: cary Jan 6 2013, 07:41 PM

Door sill removed ................

Posted by: cary Jan 6 2013, 07:49 PM

Now getting to the portion that I really wanted to look at.
Removing the longs door hinge support.











Getting out the leaded flange on the upper portion was a bitch.
But I got ....................

Posted by: cary Jan 6 2013, 07:56 PM

Heres a couple shots of the outer long under the door hinge support.



As you can see the front fender end isn't welded at all. Well that's not going to work. I'm thinking I'll seam seal it.



The top only has 2 spot welds.

Posted by: cary Jan 7 2013, 05:54 AM

Bad news for the Tool Whore's wallet.
They just opened a new HF in Hillsboro.

On a side note:

Buying two more grinders. NAPA has a pair of 6 amp Porter Cables 4 1/2 ones sitting on their left over Christmas gift display.

On a sad note:

Being transferred to the companies most outdated and under-performing store. Dandy. Owners explanation. You get paid the most, go fix it.
He had a pretty tough time breaking the news ..............
Start today at 5am .................

Posted by: Archie Jan 11 2013, 10:29 PM

You have to wonder, Cary. I found some of that round-section, open-cell construction foam pushed up into this gap between the sail panel and the outer fender panel. I thought it was stock! Seems like there should be nothing in there!!

Posted by: cary Jan 12 2013, 06:41 AM

I thought the same thing.
But when we started the body work on this car a couple years ago. There it was.
I'm sure Scotty, Perry, Jeff and those that having been restoring these cars for years could give you a better explanation.
I think I remember one of them explaining what the factory was thinking. But I can't remember what it was.

Posted by: cary Jan 17 2013, 06:58 AM

My dad just passed away from a fast acting Leukemia. He fainted on Dec 10th. and passed away yesterday. He was 75 and was in what appeared to be perfect health.
They did make an attempt with Chemo, but it didn't work. They say it had a 66% chance.
When you're a kid your dad seems like Superman. It was tough to see him shrink to almost nothing.

Posted by: Slink Jan 17 2013, 08:45 AM

Cary
My deepest sympathy to you and your family.

Posted by: wingnut86 Jan 17 2013, 01:02 PM

Cary,

My family's condolences on the loss of your dad. Mine passed in 2006 - battled cancer 3 times and won. Appendix burst one evening and the infection took him 3 weeks later, he was 78.

Hang in there.

Dave

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 09:33 PM

Well time to get back to work.
Got my 2 new grinders out of the truck.



Looks like the last nice day at the man cave for a while. Freezing rain coming tonight.

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 09:45 PM

I'm back at disecting the drivers long that I bought from Perry.
First I'll cut the long with the plasma cutter.
Could use a cut off wheel. But I thought I'd give the plasma cutter a whirl.







That was cool. I'll have to get a pair of torch goggles.
Welding helmet is too dark. I couldn't see the line.

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 09:48 PM

Look like we'll have about 100 spot welds to drill out.





Whoa ............

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 09:53 PM

I got 85 spot welds drilled out with one Rota Cut bit.



Using Perry's dip into cutting oil technique.
Works like a champ.
Did go through about 5 HF 7/64 pilot hole drill bits.

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 21 2013, 09:53 PM

Hold or clamp a straight edge and burn....

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 09:56 PM

Outer long removed in one solid piece.
Easy deal .................

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 09:58 PM

Here she is opened up. Looks good.

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2013, 10:15 PM

Perry gave me lots of material. Looks like I'll have the entire front inner fender portion too.

But the bottom of the long as it starts to go up the wheelhouse will have to be created.
This one is pitted and has a couple holes in the outer layer. Better than mine, but not a good as I want it to be.
That's the section under the rear jack point.

Could do a small patch. But to me, seems that's about the most important section on the entire car.

Had a great day.
Had a tearful moment when Eric Clapton came on the radio.
Tears in Heaven
Took a couple minutes to listen to entire song. Then got back too it.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2013, 10:47 PM

So back to dissecting the long.
Next will be to remove the engine shelf. I want to remove it totally intact so it could be used in the future.





Camera doesn't like the halogen lamps......



Taking off the backend with the end piece attached. No way to remove it without damaging the shelf.



Got it out in one piece.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2013, 10:52 PM

Here's the wheelhouse cut off with the plasma cutter.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2013, 11:02 PM

Next will be to remove the floorpan portion left on the cut out long.



Drilled the pilot hole completely thru. That way I wouldn't miss the location on the inside of the seam. Worked great.



That went real smooth .................easy deal. Still using the second 3/8" Rotacut spot weld cutter.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2013, 11:03 PM

New weapon rack .................

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2013, 11:09 PM

I've got it almost trimmed down to were I can start to measure it up for installation.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2013, 11:15 PM

Now that I have it trimmed out.
Looks like I'll need a little patch under where the jack point was located.
Plus there's a small one inch crack right by the e-brake indentation.
All in all, she looks pretty good. But won't totally know until I can get it sand blasted.

Hopefully that will be next week.

Posted by: 9146986 Jan 29 2013, 08:35 AM

I've seen several cars with the crack at the parking brake indent. I'm guessing that would be a good place to reinforce ala inner long stiffening kit. Good to hear you are happy with the long. Isn't that Blair tool the shizzle?

Posted by: cary Jan 29 2013, 07:53 PM

Just about the time I think I'll change it. I start a new hole and it goes right to work.

Posted by: cary Feb 3 2013, 11:29 AM

Here's what I hope the final result will be.
The question being, will I leave the trim chrome or powder coat it black?

Posted by: jersey914 Feb 3 2013, 01:08 PM

Aahhhh, decisions, decisions. Your decision is one I wish i had to make. Keep up the work Cary, this puppy will be beautiful either way!

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 09:44 AM

Looking for some help.............
Went back and re-read Jeff Hail's Dead thread.

When I tie in the new to me part that is double walled. How/can you cut back the existing inner wall without damaging it?
I want to build a new inner box to tie the two parts together.


Picture from Jeff's thread.

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 09:53 AM

Going to remove the front inner fender from the new long.
That should make the long alignment much easier.

So I hope to remove the front inner fender, and the misc ebrake and center support pieces today. Then hopefully I'll drag out the sand blaster and get the long all tidied up.



Haven't decided how I'm going to use the the back jtube corner yet. I tore mine up pretty bad when removing the old long.

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 10:00 AM

This will be my electric car when the batteries get down to a responsible price. So I want to build it strong enough to hold the weight of the batteries.
I plan this to be my forever daily driver/commuter car.

Posted by: wingnut86 Feb 4 2013, 10:06 AM

Awesome idea Cary.

That was why I purchased my black 70', for an EV project.

My wife's Prius needs just a few more miles on it;-}

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 08:22 PM

Back to it .............
Going to remove the remnant of the rear inner firewall.
Plan to leave to back one and the corner to see if I can reuse the corner.



First thing is to remove the rear engine lid cable tube.



Weapon of choice. Mapp gas torch.



Spot welds are marked and ready to be drilled out.
Still using Rotacut spot welder cut #2

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 08:34 PM

Removed the j-pipe. The red arrows show you were the 2 tack welds are. I've now removed two. Both pipes have had the tack welds in the same place. The problem being is the 3 lb's of seam sealer spread over the entire area. Makes it very hard to find the tack welds.





Here's the tore up corner that is on the car ..............

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 08:42 PM

Now to remove the front inner fender .............



Tack welds were attacked with big and little cutting disks.



No way to get at this tack weld. So I cut it out from the back side with the
small cutting disk. Hit it dead on......



Another tough spot ..............finished with cold chisel.

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 08:44 PM

Here she is sitting in her soon to be new home..................

Posted by: cary Feb 4 2013, 08:51 PM

Here's the long after a couple hours of sand blasting ..................
Paint : very easy
Rust : a little more work
Seam Sealer : PIA ...........



All in all a pretty good day. It will still need a patch at the bottom of what was the jack
point location. Inner box needs a little work too ................
I'm going to repost my inner box question in its own thread.

Posted by: cary Feb 12 2013, 07:07 AM

Another work day...............

I got the inner reinforcement out of the drivers wheelhouse long. So that when I install the new inner long it will be ready for the new inner box.
No real way to find or drill out the spot welds. So I just kind of pried it out of there.
Using Rick's BA screwdriver method, a little chisel action. Both hand and air.
Cut the inside edge with a Dremel disk. Took a few. But it got the job done.
Turned out pretty good.

Posted by: cary Feb 12 2013, 07:10 AM

Duplicate Post

Posted by: worn Feb 12 2013, 11:34 AM

Hi Cary,
The engine mounts are coming to you UPS. Sorry it took months. Progress looks fantastic.

Posted by: cary Feb 13 2013, 07:02 AM

As things are progressing.
I unpacked the brake master cylinder floorboard area I bought from Bruce.





Looks really nice. I'm thinking it might be my first real part to get washed in the parts washer.



Waiting for it to warm up enough so I can leave the soap solution in it without worrying about freezing.

Posted by: cary Feb 13 2013, 07:07 AM

Finally broke down and bought my new Millermatic 180.
This is a milestone purchase for me. I've been wanting one for a long time.
But my 15 year old 90 amp Craftsmen 115v just wouldn't wear out.

Here she is right out of the box.

Posted by: cary Feb 13 2013, 07:09 AM

Test fitting the inner fender after trimming a bit off.

Posted by: cary Feb 14 2013, 07:03 AM

I still don't get the flash rust deal.
I strip these parts with a sand blaster and I don't get the flash rust everyone is talking about.
At least I don't think I do.
There's a little on the fenders. Both they've been bare metal for a couple years.

Some days here in PDX its 100% humidity.

Posted by: wingnut86 Feb 16 2013, 07:32 PM

It's there. Don't trust your eyes.

Use a metal ready or similar to protect it between work sessions.

Posted by: cary Mar 4 2013, 11:31 PM

Here's the motor mounts that where sent by Worn.
Thank You ................

Posted by: cary Mar 4 2013, 11:35 PM

Taking a time out to get the other car ready for season opening AX on 3/15-16.



New front trunk seal with a little rust repair.
And welded the engine lid hinge bracket solid to the firewall.

Posted by: cary Mar 11 2013, 10:33 PM

Back to work. Super In Law (82) back working on the inner fender patch.
Its our first use of the Millermatic 180.

Posted by: cary Mar 11 2013, 10:43 PM

Me, I'm getting the other car ready for this weekends Drivers Skills Clinic and AX.

Just ordered a new set of Falken Azenis RT-615Ks.

Posted by: FourBlades Mar 12 2013, 07:05 AM

Good work on saving another teener!



John

Posted by: cary Mar 12 2013, 10:23 PM

Working on setting things up to install the drivers long.

Asked for a little help on welding shrinkage.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=205992&st=0&gopid=1833832&#entry1833832

Here's where we ended the day. Continuing to work on the fit.

Posted by: cary Mar 13 2013, 10:36 PM

Still working on the drivers long.
Had a little trouble with creating the patch under the jack point.

I did finally got the doors properly aligned.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=205992&st=0&gopid=1833832&#entry1833832

Posted by: cary Mar 20 2013, 09:38 PM

The day finally came. We installed the drivers long.



Here it is prepped and ready to go.
1. Flanges painted with brush on weld thru primer.
2. Cavity painted with Rustoleum.



Inner fender prepped with brush on primer and Rustoleum.

Posted by: cary Mar 20 2013, 09:46 PM

Here it is tacked in place and back on the rotisserie.





Both sides at exactly the same level.
Started with a door gap of 5.5mm, finished at 5mm.

Posted by: cary Mar 20 2013, 09:54 PM

Here's the inner fender to long welds.



Mine are the two bottom ones.
1/2 plug, 1/2 tack. I don't want the bitch moving.

Super In Law got a little carried away on his.
By the end of this project I'll either be a master welder or a master grinder.

Posted by: cary Mar 25 2013, 08:41 PM

Things are looking up ..............

We patched the bottom of the drivers wheelhouse. The spot under the rear floor jack point. Super In Law had a little trouble trying to get the puddle to move without blowing holes in it.
I'll try and do some more work on the right side ................
Both sides are new metal. Don't know exactly what the problem was.
I think he's out too far with the wire.



Inside is just about prepped for the inner box.

Posted by: cary Mar 25 2013, 08:43 PM

Starting to look like a whole car again ................



Sorry for the low light phone picture.

Posted by: cary Mar 25 2013, 08:49 PM

Laying out the next project..............
Complete passenger side wheelhouse replacement.



It's going to nice working with new metal.

Posted by: saigon71 Mar 26 2013, 05:48 AM

Good work...Keep on rollin man!

I agree, working with new metal is a real treat!

Posted by: nathansnathan Mar 26 2013, 06:54 AM

I've been following along, glad to see someone going deeper into a 914 than I have.
Just remember the replacement panels are galvanized - best to sand it off anywhere you're going to weld.

Posted by: worn Mar 26 2013, 08:32 AM

Uhhmmm, Cary. Does the super in law do house calls? You are one lucky guy. Nice work. Trying to follow close behind with my 6 conversion. Thanks for keeping your 914 from the scrap heap.

Posted by: cary Mar 26 2013, 11:09 PM

I'm thinking that Super In Law isn't wire brushing between welds.
Along with having too much wire out form tip.

Nathan, I usually hit it with the grinder. Probably a bit harsh.
I think I'll pick up a few 80 grit Rolocs.
Thanks for the heads up.

Posted by: cary Mar 26 2013, 11:13 PM

Switching days off.
We'll be back at it tomorrow.
Stopping at a cute little cafe for breakfast.
We've been driving by it for 3 years.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 09:50 PM

Super in Law is working on the insert sleeve.
Took 2 shots at it. Not quite tight enough.
So we'll try it again.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 09:54 PM

While he was working on the insert pattern.
I thought I'd look at the seam sealer behind the door latch plate.
There is quite a pile of seam sealer in there.





Right behind the door handle too.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 09:57 PM

How does this deal work?
There is a light metal frame right at the base of the sail panel.
Just tacked in there with 4 wimpy welds, then a pile of seam sealer.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 10:10 PM

So decided that I would start tearing into the passenger side wheelhouse.



Start drilling out spot welds...............



Just when I think I can remove the inner wheelhouse longitudinal.
I find these tack welds way up at the end of the wheelhouse.
Not good............ I tried chiseling them out.
Poked a couple holes with the chisel.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 10:14 PM

Got it out. Cut it into three pieces to get it out.





Made a mess .............I'm thinking I went thru 6 cutting disks.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 10:17 PM

Test fitting a couple pieces. Inner needs some trimming to get it to fit against the trunk wall.

Posted by: cary Mar 27 2013, 10:20 PM

Now in lies the big question. How do weld back in the top of the
inner wheelhouse long against the rear trunk.
I'm thinking arc welder turning way down with a small rod?

Posted by: cary Mar 28 2013, 06:02 AM

In answer to your first question. Yes.
He's heading out this am to help lay a Pergo floor.

I hate to think of the day when he wont be out there helping me.

Posted by: worn Mar 28 2013, 09:33 AM

I would turn the mig up high and then make sure that you concentrate the heat at the larger metal. That's the problem with mig welding, because heat and fill are hard to separate. Stick is pretty similar in that regard. It sounds like you are worried about penetration at the long. Try a test piece of the same thickness. With your new torch I bet it works.

Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 28 2013, 03:11 PM

plug weld from the shock tower side

Posted by: cary Mar 28 2013, 09:09 PM

I don't think I can reach in there ....................
But I haven't tried.

Posted by: cary Mar 28 2013, 09:12 PM

No access. Its backs up to a closed in cavity. The shock tower hole.

Posted by: cary Apr 1 2013, 06:07 AM

TIME OUT

Oldest son came up from Eugene for Easter. The coolant leak we've been chasing finally let go.
Its on a 2002 A6 2.7T.
At first glance I'm hoping its a hose. But it's probably the gasket on the water pump. It has about 60k on it.

I got lucky. He and my daughter in law just drove to SF for spring break. Took about 16oz on the way down. And about 16oz on the way back. I was still thinking it was a weeping hose connection.

It let go right here at the house. I did the timing belt service myself about 60k ago. We'll see if it was my workmanship or a failed component.

I'm going to the shop after work to pick up the leak detector lamp kit and the HF camera.

Posted by: cary Apr 3 2013, 09:34 PM

Water pump gasket let go.
And I can see a hairline crack in the impeller.
Might as well throw in a new cam timing belt while I'm in there.
We've gone 65k since the last one.



Yippy, skippy .................

At least I'll have Pelican 911 Boards burgers and beer tomorrow night.

Posted by: cary Apr 8 2013, 08:36 AM

All cleaned up and waiting for a hose from Audi.
One of those while I'm in there. Must be Jeff Gamroth rubbing off on me. 4 hoses, $250.

So I'll head out to the shop and get back to work. I'm going to put a new jack point on the white car first. When I pulled the rocker panel I found it packed with sand.

Posted by: cary Apr 8 2013, 08:47 AM

Oh yeah.
Workmanship investigation.
I used RTV on the gasket. Which was the preferred practice at the time. Now its a no no.
Looks like the gasket broke down over time.
Water pump impeller had a hair line crack too. So timing was actually good.

New preferred method is dry. I just cant bring myself to do that on a water pump. So I discussed it with my 911 Yoda (Steve Weiner).
He would use a product called Gasgacinch. That's the direction I'll go.

Posted by: worn Apr 8 2013, 11:04 AM

I have always like permatex non hardening. Super sticky and makes a mess that tells you that you have achieved something. Gasgacinch is pretty nice too and far less messy.

Posted by: cary Apr 22 2013, 09:04 PM

Finally got it finished.
Replaced all the hoses, except the $200 upper one.
If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any.
That hose let go three days after I finished it up.
Damn it ..................

Glad they hadn't taken it home.

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 08:38 PM

Finally back to the shop ................
And back to work (play) .........................

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 08:42 PM

Next order of business.
Measuring the inner/engine long.
I'm using the hinge studs as a point of reference.



It was about a 1/4 off ..........................

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 08:46 PM

So I had to fiddle with the top end next to the back shock tower.



Still didn't fit. Had to recut the flanges.

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 08:53 PM

Now it matches the drivers side.



Here's the virgin divers side.



Now the passenger side after I finish tinkering.

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 08:56 PM

Now measure, measure & re-measure ................





Align bottom edge ....................
Everything is starting to come together.

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 09:01 PM

Now we start to work on the the two pieces of the wheelhouse.
The two pieces overlap each over. So using both, I'll need to lap them together.
Measure FOUR, times cut once.

Posted by: cary Apr 29 2013, 09:23 PM

So I measure the upper wheelhouse so I can cut off the lower portion.





So we start the lap weld after we crimp a flange on it.
I think one is a AA part and the other an RD part. I'll let Pete answer that.
Right about were the AA part is wavy. They don't line up perfect.

Master grinder should be able to tidy it up. LOL.


I still have trouble seeing, even using the $200 helmet.
I'll get it figured it out. Over over-welded it in a couple spots.

I'll take a picture of the penetration when I come back to pickup the enclosed trailer.
It is freeking cool. Perfect.

All in all, a good day ............ Had a great time. Left the shop with a big smile.

Posted by: cary May 6 2013, 08:37 AM

Back to work.
Back on the lift it will go.
It want to make sure everything is aligned perfect before I tie these three pieces together.
Kind of a slow process. But part of learning what you can and can't do.

Plus I'll get Super In Law to drill some new holes in the rotisserie so it goes on the lift perfectly flat.
Meaning, when the car is perfectly flat on the lift. We have to lift one end of the rotisserie up to bolt it on. Which tweaks the nose a couple MM.

Posted by: cary May 14 2013, 07:37 PM

Well, back to work again.



Getting tired of getting poked in the back.

Posted by: cary May 14 2013, 07:42 PM

Getting ready to put the car back on the lift and get it back into alignment.

So we're building a couple more lift jacks.

Posted by: cary May 14 2013, 07:43 PM

Cutting patch patterns ...................

Posted by: cary May 14 2013, 07:59 PM

Test fitting the outside suspension console.
Getting aligned back on the jig.
Getting closer to welding in back together.

Posted by: cary May 19 2013, 09:19 AM

So it's s back on the lift.
Now the tedious job of getting the doors gapped to 5mm.







I need to start looking for a used bench ...................
This is a PIA.

Posted by: cary May 19 2013, 09:28 AM

Now to start adding parts.
First is RD P351 Inner longitudinal member, engine compartment, Right side.





Gave up on trying to weld up against the shock tower on the inside.
I'll tack it at the top. Thought about some self tapping SS screws. But the rosette and hole punched welds are some much larger that the spot welds I think we'll be ok.

Thoughts ???

Posted by: cary May 19 2013, 09:40 AM

Going to have to do some tweaking on the P351 to get it to align with the P331.
Inner wheelhouse, lower right.
The flange on the long is wider than the flange on the wheel house.
So we'll squeeze the long a bit to get the fit we want.
Should have squeezed the long BEFORE I welded it in.
Only looking for a couple MM's so it was no big deal.

Did use Pete's self tapping screw idea. Worked great.
Looking forward, I'll use it when dry fitting multiple layers/pieces together.

I'll get a picture of the box of screws I got at Home Depot. #10 wide & flat.

Posted by: cary May 19 2013, 09:55 AM

Let my son have the white 914 to drive the last couple weeks at Oregon State. Graduating Summa Cum Laude in a couple weeks.
Getting a BS in Finance. Should hear back on his CFA Level 1 test in June.

He has been accepted into the School of Law at the U of 0.
Hopefully he'll get a spot. Applied late. Was hoping to go to Sanford.
But his LSAT test was 2 points too low to even attempt to get it in.

Born leader ...................anything less than becoming a CEO will be a let down.

Oh yeah .............I miss the car. Even though its only been a couple weeks.

He took it to the beach from Corvallis last weekend. Dad what did you do to the car? It runs like a dream.
I explained the MPS and AFR adjustments.

He's the son that drove it all 4 years of high school in Montana.

Posted by: cooltimes May 19 2013, 05:54 PM

That was a real 914 thriller.
Getting it all together and seeing expert craftsmanship in a real timeline.

Thanks to you and your Great In Law for sharing each moment in your skills of keeping your 914 alive with us.

MikeCool
TN.

Posted by: worn May 19 2013, 08:32 PM

I am glad to see someone else tennis balling their project. I figure I have it coming if blood is running into my shirt, but the helpers don't deserve it. Steve Zissous said it best when he said you didn't point a gun at an intern.

Posted by: Kraftwerk May 21 2013, 10:37 PM

Great work, and a great deal of work. You really saved this one.

Posted by: cary Jun 19 2013, 08:05 PM

I'm back ....................
We'll get back to it for a couple days.
I've been busy.

1. Took a backpacking trip with my brother.
2. Got told that the supermarket that I manage was going to close and I would be moving to another store,again. Another one they're talking of closing or selling.
Hmmmmm, not good at 57 years old.
3. Two hours later I have a new job. Going back to Albertsons where I started.
4. Start liquidating the inventory of the store. Tough duty. All that work going down the drain.
5. Watch my son get his BS in Finance at Oregon State.
6. Give two week notice at old job. Going to take the two weeks as vacation.

Hopefully I'll get to burn some metal tomorrow. Its been a month. Seems like forever.

Posted by: worn Jun 19 2013, 09:33 PM

It may be joe albertsons supermarket, but I'm glad you are on your feet. Wish we had em out here, and great that you get two weeks.

Posted by: cary Jun 20 2013, 08:44 AM

Might not, waiting for the text to tell me when they what me to start.

It could be Monday.
Hopefully I can negotiate taking a couple weeks unpaid after I get things figured out.

Oh well ......................

Finishing my coffee. Then we'll be heading out to the shop.

Posted by: cary Sep 19 2013, 08:37 AM

4 months later and I finally get a chance to get back to work.

Working my way thru the new job.
Returning after 21 years

Already promoted and making more than the job that I left. All is good.
Now its time to burn some metal........................

Posted by: cary Sep 29 2013, 10:28 PM

Ok been too busy at work to pull the JPGs off the phone.






Regap the doors ...............





Gettin back into the swing of things

Posted by: cary Sep 29 2013, 10:32 PM

So I begin to fit the passenger long .................





Not liking the fit to our original get it on the road repairs 10 years ago.

Posted by: cary Sep 29 2013, 10:38 PM

Needed to reduce the long opening about 3/8 of an inch.
Easy deal ................claps did the job.








So begin I to cut out the corner ...........

Posted by: cary Sep 29 2013, 10:49 PM

So here's where we left off.



We spent most of the afternoon forming the new corner.
Didn't take any pictures.

Posted by: cary Oct 1 2013, 06:29 AM

Next time I'm going to strip the entire car first .................

But this started as a while your in there project............... Lesson learned.

Might have to start saving for the small Dustless Blaster.

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 1 2013, 12:20 PM

it does seem that a stripped and sand blasted tub is the best way to begin.

I have to say, this is one of the most metal-removed long/hell hole repairs in recent memory.

Posted by: cary Oct 6 2013, 08:43 PM

Back to work ....................
I'm going to go to work on the inner box for the drivers side.

Went back in and reread Jeff Hail's Dead thread.



Finally using my Hot Spot at the shop.

Posted by: cary Oct 6 2013, 08:46 PM

Reworking a few of the patch seam welds on the long.

Practice, practice, practice.

Posted by: cary Oct 6 2013, 08:49 PM

Decided that I needed to cut off the lip.
Just couldn't get it to fit with the lip attached.

Posted by: cary Oct 6 2013, 08:52 PM

So I decided to cut the holes in inner box.





Free-Handed I'll have to come up with come sort of jig gadget.

Posted by: cary Oct 6 2013, 08:54 PM

Time for lunch ................... Off to Subway

Posted by: cary Oct 10 2013, 09:13 PM

Back to work on the inner box on the drivers long.
My welding is getting much better. Almost know what I 'm doing on good metal.



Weld thru primer sprayed on. Rosette holes drilled.



Didn't like the self taping screw technique this time. The hole on the old long needed to be bigger. There was no where to start the weld on the new metal inner box.
So welded from both sides.



Now ready for seam sealer and primer ..................

Had a good day. Super In Law made good progress on the right side front inner fender .... Didn't shoot any pictures.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 09:58 AM

A month has passed since we've accomplished much. Yesterday was a good day.
I'm working on the extending the outer drivers wheelhouse that was removed due to the cars medical condition.

So I start with making a cardboard pattern.



Here's where I'm working.



See that little magnetic light. Way cool. Bought it at Bi Mart here in Oregon. It has improved my welding about 100%. $13. When I get a chance I'll post the manufacturer info so it can be Googled.

Tool Whore bought a second one. I just leave it attached to the welder. Easy to find that way.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:06 AM

Here's the completed extension.
Being that its the drivers side, no RD parts available. I know, most smart people would have walked away.



Here it is test fitted.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:16 AM

Tool Whore side note :

Built another jack stand so I could get the lift arm out of the way.
Ducking in and around that thing puts me in a poor mood.
Man, I want to get this thing off the lift.

I think I'm going build the jig Jeff Hail built for the next one.



Don't worry, that is jack point #8. It's not going anywhere.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:35 AM

Super In Law is working on the other end.
The inner fender that the front of the long attaches to. Both sides of the this car had the disease real bad. So this repair is more about strength and function.
I'm building this car to be my daily driver when finished. Rain, sleet or snow.
Oh yeah, we're going to call it Icicle to match my white and blue Carrera.

We'd already done one patch. But it didn't align with the new outer long.
So we cut into it again and added another patch. Not exactly they way you'd want to do it on a customers car.
I don't imagine anyone else we be where we are. But its something to look out for.



Still struggling with welding old metal to new. But we're getting it. Zig zaging really helps. Then not being a dumb ass and take your finger off the trigger. LOL.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:39 AM

Here's the fit we're working on.
Plus keeping the door gap at a perfect 5mm.



Seam sealer and under coat will make the less than stellar patch disappear like magic.
But I'll know its there.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:41 AM

Here's the test fit at the end of the day.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:45 AM

Prepped the heater tubes for installation.

Next step is to encapsulate the inside. Finish up welding on the patch on the heater tube corner in the engine compartment. Get that all sanitary and seam sealed before the heater tube is tacked in.

Posted by: FourBlades Nov 17 2013, 07:03 PM

Awesome thread man!

You are really getting there.

I always found using the bzzt bzzt bzzt technique of just making one large tack weld after another to be the easiest way to deal with the old metal on these cars. You start the next tack weld while the previous one is still red hot. Putting the next tack on the edge of the red hot one prevents any problems getting the arc going cleanly.

It ends up looking like this. This was tacked at 3 inch intervals all the way around and then filled in slowly.



Looking forward to seeing your car back on its wheels again.

John

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:12 PM

Nice work. Thanks for the tip.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:20 PM

Had another great day.
Spent most the day just puttering in the shop.
Tidied up the office shop. It had six months of just sitting things down everywhere.
Now we're all tidied up.

Then I went after finishing up heater tube corner.



All seam sealed up.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:24 PM

After smoothing out the opening. I test fit the heater tube.



Then I test fit the muffler.

Posted by: cary Nov 17 2013, 10:40 PM

Now its time to seal up the long.
Going to be spraying in Eastwood Antirust.





The Eastwood kit worked pretty good. A little too cold for the extensions and the tubes to work. Hopefully it will be a little warmer on my next day off.
Then I can spray the inside of the wheelhouse. The one flex tube sprays like lawn sprinkler. Should work perfect.
Might need to cut it with solvent it it doesn't get warm enough.

Posted by: cary Nov 24 2013, 10:59 AM

Most of the day off was spent re-leveling the car. It still amazes me how flexible it is without a long on the passenger side. This time a few less jacks. Added some weight to the trunk. Hillbilly bench adjustment



Inner long is fitted, welded in and sealed up on the drivers side.
One thing to remember. Don't forget to install the front heater tube into the long before you weld it back in.
Welded in the heater tube to the engine compartment.
After the struggle getting the front heater tube in. It's ready to be welded.

So now its time to get back to the passenger long. Right now its disconnected at the front fire wall, mid fire wall and the wheel house.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 24 2013, 11:29 AM

Wow, I hadn't checked your build in a few month's and you've got a lot done. Nice work. Wish I lived close enough to view in person.

Posted by: gifted914 Nov 24 2013, 01:59 PM

Great SUPERINLAW.

Posted by: cary Nov 24 2013, 03:45 PM

It feels like its taking forever ..............................
Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I'm hoping once both longs are attached things will pick up. I spend a lot of time checking and double checking the door gaps and the windshield to targa bar gap.

I don't remember if I mentioned that this car was a front clip repair. Which aligned well. But the workmanship was poor.

It's getting a little cold here in PDX. Next project is to replace a couple sections in the wood stove pipe.

Posted by: cary Nov 30 2013, 10:12 AM

Here's the next piece we need to recreate. McMark called it the torque box.
The new outer long doesn't come with that piece.
In flipping thru the pages in the Body 914 manual. It looks like its a seperate piece.
Here's the new outer long from RD.

You'll see where the block and c-clamp is attached doesn't have the torque box.
Now you see the NOS door pillar. It doesn't contain the bottom of the torque box either.

But here's a picture with the door off.

Here's where we need to get too.

Posted by: cary Nov 30 2013, 10:15 AM

As I wrote the last post I'm thinking I have a good piece for the drivers side that I took off of the long I bought from Perry @ 914 Network.
When I get to the shop I'll have to do some digging.

Nothing has been tossed yet.

Posted by: cary Nov 30 2013, 10:36 AM

Post #123 & #124 show the piece I took off of Perry's drivers long.
Looks like it will need some patching.
Or maybe I'll make a new one and save this one for a pattern. Hmmm.

Here's the piece I'm looking for.

It has to be created like the factory piece so it will fit under the RD frame stiffener.

But after spending an entire day tinkering with the door alignment. This is one of the most important attachment points on the car. Very critical in the upper 1/2 of the door alignment.

I think I'll some research on the PET to see if the part exists.
Off I go to the shop ....................

Posted by: cary Nov 30 2013, 11:36 PM

I stand corrected. The NOS part picture is the complete part.
The blue car looks like it has an RD 346 frame stiffener installed.
The primered car is Jeff Hail's 1st. class metal work.

It's interesting how these pieces are layered together.
If you would want to take this apart in the future you can't put any welds behind that torque box at the bottom of the a-pillar. Hmmmm.

Posted by: cary Dec 1 2013, 12:04 AM

Time to fire up the heat...



Dr's ready to go to work.

Posted by: cary Dec 1 2013, 12:12 AM

Nice to see that the door gap held up.



Would just need a small tweak to level up enough to weld the outer long in place.

Posted by: cary Dec 1 2013, 12:16 AM

Found the part in the parts pile.



Here's the place that needs repaired.

Posted by: cary Dec 1 2013, 10:04 AM

Here's the only patch I had to put in.



Pattern cut out of cardboard.



Patch ready to weld in. Old metal got a little religious on me.

Posted by: cary Dec 1 2013, 10:13 AM

All repaired and ready to shoot on some Rustoleum.
I'm learning not to over grind the thin spots LOL





I posted on the Parts Forum that I'd like to horde a few of these parts for the future.
I'll need one of someone sawsall parts stash for the right side.
I also shot Pete from RD an email about maybe selling the end piece off the 346 frame stiffener.

Posted by: cary Dec 1 2013, 10:20 AM

Had to uncover and fire up the shop car to go and pickup some parts for the college kids car. Dad, my cars running funny
Hadn't driven her in about six months. I had to be careful on the cold hard tires.
Though I enjoy driving my 914 more. Just passing the apex and mashing the pedal to the floor does put a shit eating grin on your face.



Off to Eugene to change out some valve cover gaskets and a coil pack on the kids Quattro.

Posted by: cary Dec 8 2013, 11:49 AM

A little too cold here in PDX to head out to the shop.
Plus QTR. end stuff at work.

Some how I got to reading Nathans thread.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113507&st=100
Nice work.

But that gave me some ideas about how to tie in the new passenger inner wheelhouse to the new inner long. JPG is where I'm at. Long is not welded in.



Looks like Nathan fabricated a new inner layer.
Thats over my pay-grade. Whoa.
But I do believe I will create piece that goes into the long.



The caveat is, is that the new inner wheelhouse is considerably thicker that the original piece. But I'd still like to be double layered.

Posted by: cary Dec 15 2013, 10:22 AM

Didn't get much done yesterday. Spent the am putting in a new stove pipe. It was almost see thru. Helped the landlord with a frozen water piper.

Tacked in the front j-pipe on the drivers long.

Then I went digging thru the take off/ cut out parts that came out of the long I bought from Perry.
First I determined that I created one of the inner boxes to short. So it will have to be cut off and redone.

Posted by: cary Dec 15 2013, 10:56 AM

Still stumped ................ I want to build an inner box to tie the wheelhouse and the long together after I butt weld it.

How would recreate the ridges with my primitive shop?



I feel the both the RD parts are 16 gauge so they are much thicker than the OEM parts and they are sized to be butt welded together. But with the car dissected as much as I have it. I know that is a hinge point for the whole body. So I want to build it stronger.

Need some suggestions.

Posted by: nathansnathan Dec 15 2013, 06:23 PM

It's a lot of work to make not only the inner forward of the firewall with the relief for the floor, but the outer rear of the fw is a real pain with the engine shelf cut out and the radius, the bend, etc.

You might want to do it the way Jeff Hail did, kind of an in-between way, the corrugated piece stays on the outside. It would help to add the top and bottom to the inner that the template is representing there, 3-dimensionalize it for strength, like the factory, but not as elaborately shaped. Seems like He should have brought it forward more to double layer where the lower seatbelt nut is

Posted by: cary Dec 15 2013, 08:10 PM

As I reread your thread about 3 times I'll have to ponder.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113507&st=150
My original plan was to follow Jeff's example. Now you and Scotty have given me a couple more ideas.

I really don't want to weld on those ribs .............
I don't like the void that would be created by using a flat plate. Granted mine will be painted. Unlike they way we came from the factory. hmmm.

But you, Scotty and Jeff do beautiful and great work.
I do thinks its pretty cool that you recreated the factory part. I think if ever have to go this deep again. That's the route I'll go. Build it all on the bench.

Posted by: cary Dec 17 2013, 08:00 AM

I'll be getting the contact info on the PDX Wurth Rep so I can buy a spray on seam sealer gun.
Running back thru Jeff Hail's Dead thread. It just looks right, and tidy.

Posted by: cary Dec 20 2013, 07:56 AM

Still chilly in PDX. 32 degrees when I made it to the shop at 9:15.
Decided to put on my big boy pants and cut the door post.



BEFORE



AFTER

That will have to be cut in order to slide the inner rocker in place. Dumbass, I shouldn't have bothered seam sealing it.

Posted by: cary Dec 20 2013, 08:17 AM

I went ahead and added to the inner portion of the wheelhouse extension.
Might be a bit too long ...................
Plasma cutter will make short work of it if need be.



Learned today I need to do a better job of making sure the pieces are perfectly flat before I weld them. That way I won't end up with the craters on the outer edge.

Then I test fit the outer wheelhouse extension over the inner. A little long on the top .............
Bottom right corner needs a little hammer work too.



End of the day shot ...............ready for a week and half's vacation starting Christmas day.
Hope to have it off the lift with the floor pans installed.



Now I start the Five Day Marathon of running a supermarket up till closing at 7pm Christmas Eve ................ I'll be back next Thursday .........

Posted by: cary Dec 27 2013, 10:24 PM

On we go .............it's a little chilly in my non heated shop. 34 degrees and frozen fog.
Insulated boots and overalls.

Started with finishing up the left outer wheelhouse.

Posted by: cary Dec 27 2013, 10:29 PM

Then we dug into the left hinge post and fender support.



Trying to figure how to patch the upper hole without removing the fender.
Sprayed down with Ospho

Posted by: cary Dec 27 2013, 10:33 PM

Then went on to installing the right front inner fender corner.



Welding is getting smoother and smoother.

Posted by: cary Dec 28 2013, 10:00 PM

Tool Whore Comment :

First time I've used the reinforced cut off wheel for the Dremel. Impressive.
So I bought a couple refills.
Works great when you want to peel back a double layered section.



The brown thin ones are a POS. I usually cant make it from the bench to the car without breaking one.

Posted by: cary Dec 28 2013, 10:05 PM

Decided it was time to build up the right long. So I need to tidy up the heater pipes.



Time to use the blast cabinet. Just finished giving it a tune up. New hose, nozzles and shield.

Posted by: cary Dec 28 2013, 10:13 PM

So I begin to prep the long. Come to find out the hole in the new long is 2". The heater pipe in 2 3/8". Dandy ..............



So time to hook up the plasma cutter. Getting a little better at setting it up and free handing it.



After a coat of primer. It's time for a couple coats of Rustoleum.

Posted by: cary Dec 28 2013, 10:28 PM

Pipes all primered and painted with Rustoleum.



Long all built up and ready to install. Make sure you install the heater pipe before you mount the long.



Spent the rest of the day adjusting the left outer rocker position. I had to relocate the position I'd been using. Couldn't get the bottom of the hinge post lined up.
All in all, a good day. By myself, radios blasting the 70's & 80's station, and a pot of hot coffee.
A little chilly. But spent most of the time in the wood stove heated space.

Posted by: cary Dec 29 2013, 09:40 PM

Still chilly and foggy.

Time to create a pattern to extend the hinge post that I'd already prepped. I cut out some cancer inside the left front fender. I used the Ed from Wheeler Dealer tape pattern technique.





Worked pretty good. Should have cut the pattern inside the lines.

Posted by: cary Dec 29 2013, 09:48 PM

Spent quite a bit of time fiddling with the fit. Had a tough time creating the rounded out of site corner. Once I had it trimmed and fitted it was time to cut the bottom off so the inner rocker panel can be installed.

Posted by: cary Dec 29 2013, 09:55 PM

Ended the day with tacking in the hinge post base. Tough duty welding material that can't be totally prepped. Backside



Spent the am working on the middle kids Explorer. New alternator, fuel filer, oil change, new wipers, and polish the headlight lenses.

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 10:59 AM

Big Day planned for New Years Day.
Going to install the right drivers long. Maybe get the wheel house and firewall tied in.

Finished up the left front fender inner patches yesterday.
Left the phone laying on the desk

Off we go ................

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 01:40 PM

Here's yesterday's repair. Making those little patches is a lot of fiddling..............

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 01:59 PM

Heading for the next point of no return. Attaching the right long.
Waiting for the Rustoleum on the inside of the fender to dry.

MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE .......................
Put the fender extensions back on just to make sure.

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 09:54 PM

I guess I was overly optimistic.
Too much fiddling and fussing to get the right long tacked in ...............

Couldn't get the front radius of the new long to seat into the inner fender flush and tight.
Had to make some modifications. I'll shoot a couple shots tomorrow.
Fiddling & Fussing .........

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 10:01 PM

I started with trimming the flange off the firewall. I've decided I'll attach a backing plate to the firewall. It will grab 6" of the upper and 6" of the lower long. Not exactly CW but it will add strength and structure.



After I trimmed it off .............

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 10:10 PM

After I finished modifing the front end of the long.
I made the MONEY CUT .................
Only measured about 6 times.



Bad news. It will need more fiddling. The upper long is wider than the lower long.
And the bottom radius of the upper long doesn't match the back lower radius of the lower long.
It will need more fiddling

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 10:58 PM

Ended the day with measuring the door vs. the long on the inside.

Drivers side, long already attached.



I'm real happy with that ......................

The right side ............... not so much. Glad its not attached ......................



A little more fussing with that front end will lower the front a 1/4 inch.

Posted by: sixnotfour Jan 1 2014, 11:18 PM

that seals the deal for me , I am going to salvage a right inner long for my project...Great Job Cary

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 11:45 PM

Here's where I struggled today.

This is how the front end of the RD piece comes.



I finally found the picture I was looking for.
Here's how it came from the factory.



Here's what needs to happen ..................



THEN it will slip into the inner fender like it should.
Waste of a 1/2 day. No wonder restorations cost $200k.

Posted by: cary Jan 1 2014, 11:53 PM

If the front inner fender is in good shape. That's what I'll do next time too.
What we need is just the bottom with the inner rocker flange and about a 1 1/2" upright flange. That would take care of most rust damage repairs.

Posted by: maddin Jan 2 2014, 07:59 PM

...what an incredible display of craftsmanship! :-)

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:23 PM

Here's the trimming I needed on the front end of the long.



Upper Trimmed
I needed to modify the curve to match the inner fender radius



Lower Trimmed



The Sharpie mark is where I finally cut off the lip too.

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:25 PM

Double Post

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:40 PM

Finally, the right long installed ............



Tough welding, under the car. Arm stuck up throw a hole. Helmet all jammed up and twisted. Over did the weld ...............



Happy with the penetration though .............

I'll wait to tidy up the welding till after I remove the floor.
Plus I'd like one more behind the heater tube.

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:46 PM

Here's the long seam weld. Should have been better looking.
Tried to pass thru the tacks. I should have knocked them down with the grinder before I finished the seam welding.

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:48 PM

Might want to build one of these clamps to squeeze the long into the right size.
Mine came a bit splayed open.

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:49 PM

Another Double Post ..........

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2014, 10:56 PM

Ended the night with Super In Law building inner box.





We'll cut and add the upper and lower flanges in the am.
Needs a little trimming in that picture ...........

Posted by: cary Jan 3 2014, 11:58 PM

Finished up the inner box fab.







It will be attached with predrilled holes and rosette welded.

Posted by: cary Jan 4 2014, 12:00 AM

I'm thinking I might not use the stiffeners.



Coat them with WD 40 and shrink wrap them up.

Posted by: cary Jan 4 2014, 12:08 AM

It's finally coming back together ................



It's been a long road ...............
But this puts a on my place.

Door alignment is holding perfect.

Posted by: cary Jan 4 2014, 10:58 PM

Finished welding in the left rocker.
Nice .....................

Then moved on to installing the right long inner box.
Pre-drilled the holes.
Sprayed with weld thru primer, again.



Stayed away from the long seam weld. Rosette welds only. No seam welds.
Finished the night with seam sealing over all the welds and the two edges laying on the bottom of the longs.

Today's lesson. Don't spray on TOO much weld thru primer.
Spitter, sputter .............

Today was the last shop day of vacation. Didn't meet my goal of getting the car off the lift. But I'm close.

Posted by: saigon71 Jan 5 2014, 10:01 AM

Looking good!

I had to learn the same lesson on weld-thru primer during my restoration. Two light coats and go.

Which weld-thru primer are you using? I had problems with the Eastwood Copper, the can kept clogging.

Posted by: cary Jan 5 2014, 10:10 AM

I had been using U-Pol. Which I liked. Their labeling on the spray cans isn't real user friendly. You need to know the product # to what know the product is.

Went to using a can of NAPA zinc enhanced that I'd bought. I'll need to rework my spraying technique. I put it on too thick. Lesson learned ....

Posted by: cary Jan 5 2014, 10:13 AM

I'll add a couple notes :

The upper long did end up coming together fine. Had to do a little reshaping on the upper to get it to align with the lower.



Final result ...............

Posted by: cary Jan 5 2014, 10:36 AM

Next lesson learned. Make sure you take more time to align the door hinges. Not only was I off 1mm in vertical. I was probably off 1mm in spacing. If I was too do this for a living I'd build a jig to hold the hinges in place while I welded.

Probably not 1 mm. Just Googled credit card thickness. They are .75mm. So probably more like .5 mm.

Posted by: cary Jan 5 2014, 11:15 AM

NEVER, NEVER............NEVER
Take the car out of door alignment to tinker with a fit.

I'll let you in on my biggest mistake ...................

First, on both the inner fender corners we created, the bottom edge wasn't perfectly horizontal. This is where the Celette would be nice. Something to measure against.
I'll figure out something for next time........

Second, I was thinking because I didn't have the outer rocker attached I could tweek the long to tidy up the fit. NOT

Here's what I did ........................
Doesn't it look beautiful.



After I cut out the welds ........... That little bit kept me from aligning the doors.

Posted by: cary Jan 12 2014, 10:01 PM

Time to prep the right long for closure ..................

Decided to use the Eastwood HD Anti Rust that I'd bought.
So we'll do the test in 40 more years.
Left side is done with Rustoluem.
Right side with Eastwood HD Anti-Rust.

Posted by: cary Jan 12 2014, 10:08 PM

Then I started installing the base of the left door hinge post.



Won't be long before I get this thing of the lift.
Then on to the new floor, tunnel repairs and the new pedal box.

Posted by: saigon71 Jan 13 2014, 07:28 AM

Great progress.

Keep away!

Posted by: cary Jan 20 2014, 09:48 PM

Coming together ..............

Wheelhouse trimmed. Took quite a bit fiddling to get the upper edge bent to match.
The next time I'll anchor it to the upper long and do a double cut like you'd cut wall paper.





Ready to stitch weld on the next trip to the shop.

Posted by: cary Jan 20 2014, 09:53 PM

New tool cart .................
Tired of chasing around looking for clamps and Vice-Grips.



Super - In - Law project ...................
Just need a divider on the second shelf to separate the small C-clamps and Vice-grips.

Posted by: injunmort Jan 21 2014, 04:06 PM

I love this thread, great work. you make sorry I cut up a car that was about in the same shape. keep it coming

Posted by: cary Jan 21 2014, 10:38 PM

I keep telling myself the next 4 will be easier. LOL.

Start another vacation on Thursday. Hopefully we'll get it back on the rotisserie by the following Thursday.

Posted by: cary Jan 25 2014, 09:42 PM

Great Day ....................

Finished up welding in the wheelhouse. That's gives me a warm fuzzy.



Need to finish tidying up the engine bay side.

Here's where I ended the day .............



Slid the inner rocker in to warm my heart.

Posted by: cary Jan 27 2014, 11:09 PM

Tinkered with the door gaps and body dimensions a bit.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=229264

With Rick's help I'm pretty close.

Posted by: cary Jan 27 2014, 11:14 PM

Finally got the car off the lift .............



Bought some leveling jacks



Here's where we started .............

Posted by: cary Jan 27 2014, 11:22 PM

Finally off the lift ........................ now I can get back to work.



Here's where we start tomorrow ............
Screwed in and ready to weld.

Posted by: cary Jan 27 2014, 11:35 PM

Adding a new set of door braces.
Kind of a low budget set like Hontek built.



That way I can take the doors off after I weld in the right inner rocker and recheck the door fit.

Posted by: boogie_man Jan 28 2014, 10:55 AM

Wow, that's some great work right there, keep it going, looking great !!!!

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2014, 09:46 PM

While Super In Law is building our new door braces I decided to do some housekeeping. I needed to cut out a few parts from the sheet metal that will be scraped.



Here's the new door braces. I want to be able to flip it upside down and not have to worry about everything staying in place.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2014, 09:48 PM

Tried some thing a little different. I pulled the puddle up while I was stitch welding the rocker seam.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2014, 09:49 PM

Finally putting her back on the rotisserie.




Attached image(s)

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2014, 09:51 PM

Heading home ....................

Posted by: cary Jan 30 2014, 10:49 PM

Spent Wednesday finishing up welding in the inner rockers and grinding down the rosettes.



Then I went after the hinge post bases.
Finished up welding in the left side.

Posted by: cary Jan 30 2014, 11:01 PM

Then I went after a bad spot on the bottom of the left wheelhouse that I didn't like.
It was just too thin.
So I welded in a patch.



Before grinder .............

Then I attacked cleaning up my crappy overhead welds from being on the 2 post lift. I haven't figured out overhead welding yet ........
Looks like my farmer welds back in Montana.



Tidied up ..........

Posted by: cary Jan 30 2014, 11:14 PM

While I'm doing that. Super In Law is working on the right hinge post base.
Bought a new one from RD. Came off the stiffener.





Welded in. Before grinder



Finally we're working on two projects at the same time.

Posted by: cary Jan 30 2014, 11:20 PM

I ended the day seam sealing the long to inner rocker flanges.



Plus Super in Law fabricated a new fender rocker end cap.

Posted by: sixnotfour Feb 3 2014, 10:35 PM

Who is your friend ??? I need everything behind this, I will send you the leftovers....



Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: Kraftwerk Feb 3 2014, 10:49 PM

Congrats! you saved another one! Whew.. that was a lot of work, just to read the whole 17 pages wore the heck out of me...
Its intimidating and impressive how much work it takes to fix typical rust issues, & how complicated the uni-body design is, doesn't make it easy.

Posted by: cary Feb 3 2014, 11:02 PM

That would be great ...............

Posted by: cary Feb 20 2014, 10:31 PM

Been a couple weeks.

Installed the motor mount that was given to me by worn.



Having the jig made installing it pretty simple.





Tidied up the inside of the wheelhouse and installed the hinge pivot.

Posted by: saigon71 Feb 22 2014, 07:11 AM

"Then I attacked cleaning up my crappy overhead welds from being on the 2 post lift. I haven't figured out overhead welding yet ........
Looks like my farmer welds back in Montana."

Overhead welding sucks...you figured it out when you put the car on the rotisserie.

Great work! Keep the pics coming.

Posted by: cary Feb 27 2014, 09:36 PM

Back to it ..............
Had to put brakes on the Fusion last week.

Finished up the welding on the right motor mount.

Posted by: cary Feb 27 2014, 09:49 PM

Then I finished welding the upper long to the suspension tower.



Finished welding .........................



Was a good boy and didn't over grind the welds and metal.



Seamed sealed ..............

Posted by: cary Feb 27 2014, 10:01 PM

Then I get to removing whats left of the floor plan.
Finally I get the tunnel opened up ....



Don't miss the two spot welds under the corner/foot brace.

Posted by: cary Feb 27 2014, 10:09 PM

I finished up welding the long to the front wheel well.
This is some of my best welds. Practice, practice ..........practice.



Now we'll move onto the back of the floor pan. This is going to be tricky.
We really over welded when we built up the car 12 years ago.

Posted by: cary May 26 2014, 08:11 AM

Time fly's. Its been 90 since I've touched the project.

Changed stores again, so I've been busy bringing it up to my liking.
And I dropped the engine in my 911 to put in aluminum clutch parts.
Used flywheel from Rothsport and a Kennedy pressure plate.

Hopefully today I'll get to weld up the clutch tube on my 73. Then I can restart the rustoration project.

Posted by: cary Sep 13 2014, 09:26 AM

Hope to get back to it on Monday....................... Its been along time.
Been working on my other 914 and my 911. 911 is up and running. My white 914 is coming together. Rear brakes are at Eric's getting platted.

Posted by: cary Oct 28 2014, 09:31 AM

I'm finally back. We started working on the clobbered up seam we created years ago on the floor pan to outside firewall. It's going to be a tedious process. I'm going to take it off about an inch at a time. A couple cross cuts got too deep. Today I'll set up more light for the delicate surgery. Or maybe the Dremel if I can't get it right.







Sorry for the yellow tint. That's what I get if I don't turn off the halogen lamps before I shoot the pictures.

Posted by: worn Oct 28 2014, 10:53 AM

Cary,

It's great to see your photos again. This is magic!

Posted by: FourBlades Oct 28 2014, 04:47 PM

Nice work as always.

It can be hard to make the time to do these projects...

John

Posted by: trojanhorsepower Oct 28 2014, 05:52 PM

Keep after it.
You guys are doing great!

Posted by: cary Oct 28 2014, 09:00 PM

The day went well. Decided to cut out the previous hack job clutch tube repair access panel.



Super In Law making the pattern.



New panel welded in ...............





Next we'll attack the engine firewall. I'm going to cut out the bottom 1.5 inches that contain the fuel lines and clutch cable tube. We'll also need to fabricate a new flange for almost the entire panel.

Posted by: cary Oct 29 2014, 09:22 AM

The dreaded WYIT (while your in there) bug has hit again. I think I'm going to change out the heater wire and accelerator tubes. The rust barnacles are so big I don't even what to touch them. I figure we're going to recreate the bottom inch and half of the engine firewall so we might as well change them out.
Plus it will give me a chance to use my new to my torch set up. (Craigslist)

Floor pan install looks to be pretty simple. Putting in the inside firewall looks like its going to be a bitch. I assume floor pan first, then firewall?

I'm going to try out my Preval sprayer to start laying down U-Pol primer. Hopefully it will begin show we're making some progress.

Posted by: FourBlades Oct 29 2014, 06:07 PM

I have seen people do the pans first then the firewall and I have seen people do the firewall first, especially if they are using the replacement firewall panels.

I think doing the pans first is easier, I did both my cars that way.

John

Posted by: cary Oct 30 2014, 12:12 AM

Super In Law went to reading the instruction book on the torch. He said it's been 40 years since he's used a torch. Then we had to run to AirGas to get the gas tanks filled.



So away we went. Out came the clutch tube. Ran it over the lie detector (Scotty B).
Looks to be still usable. Gave it an Ospho spray down. I'm thinking it will get Ford Blue Rustoleum. So 40 years from now someone will open it up again and go, What the Hell.



So here is the barnacles I was talking about.
So out came the accelerator and heater tubes.



Now we have an emptied out center console. Getting it ready for Rustoluem paint job.
Need to recreate the tube attachment bracket.



Ospohed .............



Firewall emptied out ...........
Trying to decide whether to recreate or buy the panel and cut out what I need.



Make sure you use protection for the wiring harness. The heat and brazing dripping could cause a serious issues.

Posted by: cary Oct 30 2014, 12:50 AM

As Super In Law was reading I went to getting ready to install the right side suspension console. Super In Law had his measurements on the white car from when we changed it out 7 or 8 years ago. Got the triangle measurement from the World info. Found a piece of all thread and nuts needed to create the measurement.

Posted by: cary Oct 31 2014, 08:30 AM

We decided that we'll make our own patch. We'll see how that goes. I have a lead on a new panel for $100.



Spent most of the day measuring over and over. Then tweaking the suspension console over and over. If I had to do it over again, I should have bought a new one. Too many Rosette holes in taking off the old one off. Need to find the MPS plate

I haven't been welding the old Rosettes closed before I put the old parts back on. I might start doing that too. Welds are too big. Don't look tidy enough. After seam sealer and paint they'll disappear, LOL,





When it is all said and done I'm dead on the 33 5/16 from the shifter hole to bolt and suspension console (Factory, 914 info). From the firewall to center of the hole I'm off just shy of an 1/8". I'm going to use Jeff Hail's numbers this am to double check again. Kind of late now, just being anal

Spent last night reading all 20 pages of a "suspension console" search to see what I could have done different to maybe not have the 1/8". Maybe I should have tacked the suspension console on the upper long when I installed it. It's the angle of the engine compartment long that caused the 1/8".

Posted by: cary Nov 2 2014, 09:50 AM

I had to walk away from the console after measuring it again about 10 times.

Decided to cut and prep the pedal box that I bought from Bruce. Both the pedal box and the area around the fuel line rubber mount/holder are pretty tore up. The pedal box was rusted. The fuel line hole was just hacked up.

Had to remove the pedal support and decided to save the suspension mounting point.







The cut portion is sitting overnight in the parts washer. Then I'll dip it in my bucket of muratic acid and water left over from the gas tank cleaning. Should come out gooder and new.

Then I'll brew a pot of coffee and start the suspension console surgery.
Maybe I'll sell the 2 frame stiffeners that I bought from RD and I'm not going to use to ease the pain.

Shot of the harness tab locations in the tunnel. They're coming out so I get all the POR15 off.



Last day of vacation

Posted by: cary Nov 2 2014, 08:35 PM

Cut off the suspension console. It ended up being 3/16's too close to the firewall. And the car would have been 3/16's higher on that side. The 3/16's out from the wall will move it up the long there by lowering the car.
More of that conversation located here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=189224

Removed suspension console

Ready for new suspension console

New part ordered from RD 11/3/2014

Posted by: cary Nov 9 2014, 10:27 AM

On a positive note. We're back to work.

Super In Law is working on the buggered up fuel line grommet hole hole on the right side of the tunnel to front firewall. Can't really figure what some one did, so we cut it out. It's like they used a big screwdriver to lever the grommet.





The floor pan section you see on the left will come out with the new to me pedal box and the new floor pan.



He did I nice job of getting it fitted. He built the lip with the press, vise and a pipe.
Its a little rough, but it will work. The line points to the only spot that we're having a tough time grinding down the welds.
Might try this weapon next time. But like always I don't know if theres enough room for the tool and the hose.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-extended-reach-air-cutoff-tool-67996.html
I like them smooth enough so they look tidy and tight (no holes) after I seam seal them.

Posted by: cary Nov 9 2014, 10:53 AM

Then I went about creating the pattern to patch the bottom of the engine compartment fire wall, the rusty spot where the tubes and cables come thru. Like just about everything on this car.That area was way over welded when we put it on the road 12 years ago.

I used the new back floor pan as the pattern. Then used the white car, which is still on the lift to take top to bottom measurements from.



Remember when you go about making your pattern you have to compensate for the width of the cutting disk you used to cut out the part.



Here's the two removed pieces that I started with. The yellow arrow points to the shifter rod bushing console. The blue box is the section that will need the most test fitting and fiddling. I'm just now getting a handle on the pattern cutting. Do you cut it with the marker line or marker line out? Kind of like making wood cabinets. One blade width makes a HUGE difference.

Posted by: cary Nov 9 2014, 11:21 AM

Here's were I ended the day. Left patch is in. I like it.
Right patch I'm still fitting. Next trip I'll flip the car on its lid so the floor pan will be laying flat for fitting.



That's with a portion of the new flange installed. Yellow Arrow
This was real handy for welding on the flange. Used the 90 degree plate.
http://www.eastwood.com/welders-helper-3x3-set-flat-curve-anglecop-plates.html
And not being a dumbass and taking the finger off the trigger. Stitch welded. This was new metal to new metal. So it was weld, cool with air hose, and weld again. No blow thru.
My biggest problem is seeing the weld location while I'm welding. Not enough light. I wish AirGas had loaner helmets.



Here's were I ended. Might have to make a new one, the hole under the speedo tube is a bit too wide. Got impatient with the bench grinder. Plus I'll have issues with the brass brazing so I won't want to be in that spot too long or too hot.

Heading home ....................... Then

Posted by: cary Nov 9 2014, 11:32 AM

When we got home my package from RD had arrived.
Left Ontario on Tuesday, arrived in Sherwood on Saturday.

As always , great service and great packaging.



I've decided I'll wait until the floor, tunnel and inside fire wall are installed before I get after this part again. I'm going ask RD for some close ups of the outriggers they built onto the 914 jig. I want mine to be removable. So that when I finish with either the left or right console I can get them out of the way. I'm always banging my head on the jig with either the welding helmet or the face shield flipped up.

Posted by: cary Nov 9 2014, 11:39 AM

As I was sitting here writing these 3 or 4 posts I think I'll have my son come out and shoot some short video of us using the shear, shrinker/stretcher and the brake as we build these patch pieces. Plus some of the different pieces of steel that we pound on.

All my metal working tools are DIY or Harbor Freight not JET (winning the Powerball wish list).

Until Thursday my next day off.

Posted by: cary Nov 13 2014, 09:50 PM

Another good day. Super In Law cut out and tacked in the the new pedal cluster pan. Pretty easy fit. Just laid the new one right inside the old one. Bolted them together right thru the master cylinder holes. Then cut right thru both layers with the cutting disk.



Haven't decided where we'll cut

Posted by: cary Nov 13 2014, 10:07 PM

While he was working on that. I went back to fabricating the engine compartment lower firewall patch.
I started with aligning the new rear portion of the floor pan to find the final shape. Held it in place with multiple clamps. That worked perfect.



New patch piece created with flange welded on. Holes drilled in it with a HF step drill bit. It worked like champ.



Patch welded in. Need to touch up a couple pin holes that I saw. I'll tidy them up tomorrow.

Posted by: cary Nov 20 2014, 10:01 PM

Back to work ............

I start with filling the gap between the shift bushing console and the firewall flange.



So I start with tacking it together. Then I start the stitch welding. I use 4 different shapes and sizes of brass to back the weld. Key is patience. No more than four pulses at one time without stopping and cooling with an air hose. Did I say be patient?
This was actually easier than it looks. New 18 gauge for the flange. And the firewall and shifter console are heavy enough to absorb the heat.
I am starting to do a better job of wire brushing between welds. It seems to be helping.



All done and tidied up ..........



This was actually the welding that I feared the most. I thought it was going to be tougher than it was. Or maybe I'm just learning what to do and not to do. Practice, practice and practice. Entire flange is installed side to side.



Here's the back. Without touching it up or grinding.

Posted by: cary Nov 20 2014, 10:09 PM

Finally opened up my Christmas present.
TP Tools.



I used it to remove the seam sealer around the bottom of the firewall. Easy deal. That way the welding magnets could stick to hold up the new flange.
Then I tinkered with removing the undercoating in the front fender.

Posted by: cary Nov 20 2014, 10:13 PM

Then I bought some power tool cord repair sleeves to use as fuel line firewall bushing.







I'll trim them down after I see if they'll work.

Posted by: cary Nov 22 2014, 08:11 AM

No pictures from yesterday.
Welded in a cover over the left front suspension point next to the pedal/master cylinder mounting. Hole had been punched in it. Cant imagine why? Threads are good.
Then we went about building some patches on the upper rear firewall right above the seam to the lower portion. These are caused by moisture getting behind the engine sound pad.
The new Christmas tool made short work of that glue/hair left from the firewall pad on the engine compartment side.

All I can add from yesterday is. Make sure you make the patch big enough to make sure your welding the new patch to good metal. You'll spend more time stitching the big hole you blew in the material than you will welding in the whole piece.
Dammit that pisses me off.................

Flashed my eyes tinkering with my helmet on my first weld. Made for a tough start to the day. I was tinkering with grind setting. Turns off the auto darkening. Probably wont use that again ................... When I started burning rust it made it a little tough to see. Plus like a dumbass I laid down too much weld thru primer, again, Which causes another good flash. By the end of the day all was good. All fine this am.

Posted by: arkitect Nov 23 2014, 09:33 AM

Cary,
Amazing work you've done on this teener. Keep it up, like to see it when it's done.

Dave

Posted by: worn Nov 23 2014, 11:19 AM

Hi Cary,
This is one of my favorite threads. With the console have you considered mounting the outer ear and spacing with that? I would think that would be a critical dimension. You and super in law are hereby inducted into "L'order du fer grinding dust and fire". Glad to see you both side by side.

Posted by: worn Nov 23 2014, 11:23 AM

Yeah, I got a brand name helmet with auto darkening that you had to turn on every time you use it! So of course I learned if the first flash is too bright to close my eyes, stop, take off the helmet, and push the button inside. That helmet is no longer in use.

Posted by: cary Nov 23 2014, 02:11 PM

Next time ....................

We're going to build a jig that bolts to the ear, BEFORE we take off the old one.
Kinda of like what RD did. That way it will line back up EXACTLY.
Plus if we hadn't had to replace the upper long it would have been a little easier to align back in the exact spot.

I know everyone says all it has to be is within 3-4mm. But I like zero if it can be done.

The other dimension that I will take next time is the distance between the upper longs right where they go into the rear trunk. I think I was off just a smidgeon in that spot. Which caused a top to bottom minute twist in the upper long. Which I believe is what caused my 3/16 issue with the console. Lesson learned. That's why I started with my worst car first .............

Posted by: cary Nov 24 2014, 10:15 PM

Well, here's where we started today. Upper firewall patches.



Left patch welded in.



Left all sealed up.

Posted by: cary Nov 24 2014, 10:20 PM

I was hoping to use my new spray seam sealer tool. But it's still a bit too cold. Plus I found that tube of seam sealer that I bought with the gun was outdated.

Posted by: cary Nov 24 2014, 10:23 PM

Then I move to the middle patch.





Trying to be a good boy and not over grind. I'll take it down just a bit more before
I seam seal it.

Posted by: cary Nov 24 2014, 10:52 PM

Then I move to the right patch. Super In Law is making the patches right ahead of me.



A couple spots got a little too rusty on the backside. Therefore blew out a big hole. But it was exacerbated by the fact that Super In Law turned up the wire speed to 40 and I missed it. Too Hot.



Elected to put the flange on the inside. It will make for a better sealed joint in the bottom of the hell hole.



While I'm welding in the last patch, Super In Law is designing a rolling car stacker.
We went and looked at a couple more tubs yesterday. A 74 and a 75. Both with titles.
Both with engines and transmissions. One needs a back half floor pan. The other car might need a patch on the bottom side of the right long. Both hell holes are solid.
He wants to build a wooden 4 * 4 gadget that we tow would around with the 4 wheeler.
I'm thinking we put up the next two sections of pallet racking. Then I rent a fork lift and put them in the racking. Minus engine, transmission and interiors

Posted by: saigon71 Nov 25 2014, 07:54 AM

Great progress! Keep on

Posted by: cary Dec 20 2014, 08:26 PM

Been busy with the brakes on the other 914. Just finished them up
Super In Law is fabricating a locking ring on the rotisserie. Currently we have four pin holes. This will give us infinite locking locations.



So I decided to teach myself to braze. Kind of got it figured out. I do a beautiful with copper pipe and solder. I'll work on when to pull away the torch.

Posted by: cary Jan 2 2015, 09:46 PM

Back to work ............

On to rebuilding the tubes in the tunnel. All new except for the clutch tube.
First shot at brazing the torch wasn't hot enough. Spent my morning coffee time watching brazing videos on YouTube. Now I've got it figured out. Easy Deal.

Posted by: cary Jan 7 2015, 11:19 PM

Building a new center tunnel brake line. To do so I had to put a new bubble flare on one end. Took 4-5 test runs to get it dialed in.

Posted by: cary Jan 7 2015, 11:29 PM

Started the day by pulling all the hardware bags out of the parts totes. I'm working on a plan to hang them on the wall so I can find them as needed. I'm getting tired of digging thru the totes to the find pieces I'm looking for. After I get them hung on the wall then I'll start preparing them for plating.

Posted by: cary Jan 7 2015, 11:33 PM

Ended the day finishing the plumbing in the center tunnel. Added a conduit for the fuel pump wires. It always bugged me that the wire was just flopping around in there.

Posted by: cary Jan 18 2015, 11:02 AM

Haven't stopped working.
1. Prepping the inside of the lower engine bay firewall so it can be sealed up for another 40 years. Nothing exciting to take pictures of.
2. I've been tinkering with the other car so it can get back on the road. DONE.
3. Mark came over and we tinkered with his new fender liners. They're installed on the white car.
4. Super In Law collected all of our drill bits and taught himself how to sharpen them with our Drill Doctor. When the dust cleared we have three good sets. Just need to buy some more 1/8s.

Posted by: cary Jan 28 2015, 09:00 PM

Back at it.

I'm working on filling the spot weld cutter holes left over from the inner lower fire wall removal.





Super In Law is working at prepping the lips and floorpan. Getting ready to install the floorpan. Feels like it will be a big leap.



Plus I sold the seats in my 911. Just ordered Corbeau Clubman seats.
One piece, and lighter.

Posted by: cary Feb 6 2015, 10:48 AM

Been busy selling the seats in my 911 and removing factory mounts. Now I'm going to fabricate some mounts to install my new Corbeau Clubman seats. Lowering the seat about 2"s I hope.

But we did make the money cut yesterday on the front edge of the front floor pan.
Its starting to feel like its coming back together.





It will take some fiddling and dolly work to get it finessed the way I want it.
Nice and Sanitary
It's going to be a joy welding on good solid steel. LOL.

Posted by: cary Mar 26 2015, 07:25 AM

Took a time out .............
I've been working on my 911. Lowered the seat rails. Bought new seats. Now I'm tackling one of the hardest (needs LOTS of patience) 911 DIY projects. Installing RS carpet kit.
Portland PCA season starts Saturday. Hopefully I'll get the carpet finished on Friday.

But while we're at it Super In Law (Grandpa Jack) is installing some new to us pallet racking.

Posted by: Larmo63 Mar 26 2015, 07:35 AM

Damn, Granpa Jack is a handy man to have around!

Good meeting you in Corona Del Mar and The swap a few weeks ago.

Posted by: cary May 8 2015, 08:38 AM

Well we're finally back to working on the 914 rustoration. 911 is all set to go for the AX season. Seems likes its been a loooonnnggg time. For the PNW folks, I've been involved in the transition from Albertsons to Haggen. Its been a long couple of months.

Started the day by tidying up the shop.



Ended the day with the front edge of the front floor pan welded and tidied up. Quite a bit of fiddling to get it to line up perfectly. Next time suggestion, I would make the cut/seam to the tub be all up on the top/flat surface. Passenger side looks tidy, Drivers side I was down in a dip and couldn't really tidy to the weld as much as I like. As for the fiddling. It was relatively easy work. I never welded more than an inch after I had all my tacks in place.



As you can see I have the rest of the pan all screwed into place. Ready to go for tomorrow. I finally feel like we're making progress, man what a feeling. I left the shop with huge smile on my face. Oh yeah, it's really fun welding on NEW RD metal. I only ran into a couple thin spots when mating up to the tub. All it takes is a little bump down in heat, I mean a little. My MillerMatic 180 has settings for metal gauge. So lets say I'm operating at 17.25 on the dial. I'll bump it up to 17.50 -17.65 and puddle the hole closed. But for that front seam I've been running in the mid 17's. But that's not seam welding, its stitch welding. Maybe three puddles max. Man do you want to keep going. But your putting way to much heat in one spot. Take your finger off the trigger.

Clarification on the Caryism ........... Down in heat means up in metal gauge on the dial. I'll shoot a picture on the dial tomorrow.

I didn't weld in the pedal support yet. I wanted to get the seam welded first. You can see on Adam's RD floor install video you'll need to elongate the hole in the pedal support just a smidgen to get the pedal support to align correctly. Mine was exactly the same. A word of wisdom, when you lay the pedal support on the pan to draw where to drill the holes. Draw the hole about 1/2 the width of the stud towards the fire wall. That compensates for the angle. A Habor Freight step drill bit was real handy for drilling the holes.

If you've keep up with the entire thread you can kind of figure out that I'm kind of fixture/tool/gadget whore. We built a jig to hold up the floor because the inner bottom firewall has yet to be installed. Tunnel is still loose. Seems to have worked great. Built two. One for the front, one for the back. It was made out of an old bed frame.



Might stop at the paint store and buy some spray on seam sealer for the other new toy that I've never used.

Posted by: cary May 8 2015, 08:56 AM

Another Tool Whore segment. In Adam's RD video he mentions that he drills the rosette weld holes. That's way too much work. I use my air punch wherever I can. I does have thickness and depth limitations. But it works in most places.





http://www.harborfreight.com/air-punch-flange-tool-1110.html

Another Tool Whore word of advice. Don't buy HF air fittings, they SUCK. I use NAPA or Home Depot with nice leak free results.

Posted by: cary May 8 2015, 09:33 PM

I had to re-cut the center seam again. Had a little too much hanging off the back.
All it takes is time. So by the middle of the day I was ready to start welding.
Here's the promised shot to the welder dials.



Then I started stitching ............

Posted by: cary May 8 2015, 09:43 PM

Another lesson today. After watching Adam's RD floor install video. I was thinking it was a waste of time putting a screw into rosette hole. So I did every other hole.
Come to find out there is a method to his madness.
The holes punched out without a screw ran though them are a pain in the ass. Your fighting the flash off of the weld thru primer in every weld.
The screw holes created a much nicer weld. All you need to do is start the wire on the bottom layer and circle your way out.

Posted by: cary May 8 2015, 09:48 PM

Already to finish up next week.



I have more Vise Grips than flashlights .............. LOL

Posted by: cary May 8 2015, 09:52 PM

Landlord blew up the lawn mower.

Super In Law spent the day working his magic. I've had the mower for 23 years
Mowed 2 acres twice a week in Montana.

Posted by: 76-914 May 9 2015, 08:17 AM

Fun!

Posted by: cary May 10 2015, 07:29 AM

As soon as I finish the floor and all its extra parts I'm going to start epoxy primering.
That will make it look and feel like we're getting somewhere.

I'm thinking i might stop after that and paint my white car, I have 3 or 4 rust spots to cut and patch. It will need to be stripped first. The car runs like a new car. Its a shame the paint doesn't look as nice as the car runs.

Posted by: cary May 13 2015, 09:09 PM

Back to work ................

Prepped the tunnel before lunch.





Welded the engine firewall lip after lunch. Some of the punched holes were in a
a bad location



All tidied up. Prepped the jack point.
Tomorrow I'll get after the tunnel. Maybe we'll get the Panel Spotter fired up.

Posted by: cary May 14 2015, 09:46 PM

Another Great Day .......................
Started the day by making sure the pedal cluster goes back in without issues before I spot weld in the pedal box stiffener. It's little tight. Elongated the holes a bit. Good too go.



Panel Spotter ready to go.



Super In Law gives it a go .................

Posted by: cary May 14 2015, 09:53 PM

Got the rest of the floor pan parts out and ready to go.



With the Panel Spotter hooked up and ready to I decide to install the seat stiffeners.



Inside look at the backside of spot welds.

Posted by: cary May 14 2015, 10:02 PM

Come back from lunch and I get after the tunnel rosette welds.





Got some grinder work to do. But man, what a great feeling.
Kind of looks like a car again.

Posted by: worn May 14 2015, 11:28 PM

Seasons greetings. The welding sanding and priming season. Nice, very nice work.
-warren

Posted by: FourBlades May 15 2015, 05:53 AM

I think a new floor on is the most satisfying panel to weld on a 914.

I have done 2 and they both felt so good to get on.

It is easy to do and makes such a big difference.

You are on a roll now!

John

Posted by: Cairo94507 May 15 2015, 06:52 AM

Terrific work. I enjoy seeing the progress as the 914 begins to take shape again. Full steam ahead!

Posted by: cary May 15 2015, 07:07 AM

Looks like there won't be a time out on the rustoration. Middle son is coming up to Portland to intern at a law firm this summer.
He called last night and asked if the white car was drive able? He knows I like tinkering. New squeegees and fuzzy s came from Mark yesterday.

He s going to be living downtown and riding a bike to work. (It's a Portland thing,. The other son is riding to work everyday this month and getting 3 extra days of vacation). I guess he and I will fight over it on the weekends.

I just wish the shop was closer and I could put a couple hours in every night. It's a 35 minute drive from home.

Super In Law built a couple 4*2*1 wooden crates to put the usable/removable metal that came off the car. One for old. One for unused or trimmed off RD panels.
He's going to build another to put all the things I've removed off my 77 Carrera 3.0. Values are starting to escalate. Just in case the kids want to restore it after I'm long gone. I've built it into a 3.0 RS clone.

Posted by: cary May 15 2015, 07:14 AM

Still needs turbo flares and a single black mirror. That will happen when it gets a total restoration. It's next.
That will include $10k in suspension and oiling cooling. Plus a Rothsport engine rebuild. $$$$ ITB's, 964 cams, etc ......... go faster stuff.

AXing this weekend. The new A7' s I just put on it are bitching. Moved up about 15 spots in the pecking order.

Posted by: peteyd May 15 2015, 09:23 AM

Cary,

Nice work! keep up the good pace. Your rosette welds are looking great too

Pete

Posted by: worn May 15 2015, 08:07 PM

Super in law, super sons, super cars, and super work, and I bet super driving. Have fun with the autocross. Reminds us that there is driving to be done.

Posted by: cary May 15 2015, 09:08 PM

I think I could have gone a little hotter. Maybe that would have flattened them out a smidgen. But I was really focused on the penetration level. Of the 100 welds on the tunnel I only touched up 6 from the bottom side. Those were caused by the metal not being tight enough together. I didn't grind the old side of the tunnel flat enough.
And I only blew through three on the 200 rossettes I did on those two days. And all of them were up under the steering wheel on the old tunnel metal. Even with the rotisserie and a welding helmet they were kind of a bitch to get too. Bad angle. Hotter on one side.

As a rule I was counting to 7 on each weld. Seemed to work for me.

Those rosettes will grind right off with a flapper disk. I love those things. I wish I had found them sooner.

Thank all of you for the words of encouragement. Now I wait for another week.

Posted by: worn May 16 2015, 07:38 PM

Drill!?! I don't think so. That is a necessity if I ever saw one.

Posted by: cary May 16 2015, 08:16 PM

I just wish it made a little bigger hole. I use a #10 self tapping screw and it almost cuts the same size hole. Bigger hole would give you a little more to weld to.
But I'm figuring it out .................

Posted by: cary May 17 2015, 07:57 PM

The AX went awesome. My best performance ever.
Was 5th overall. Moved up 10 places. 5th out of 73.

Beat both GT3's.
Two other 914World members came in 1st and 2nd.
Doug Skinnerd and Gary Chapman. Gary in his 914-6 (1st). Doug in Kermit, 911 RSR.

Posted by: Han Solo May 18 2015, 11:09 AM

Just read through complete thread. Great work! Sobering to think what I might have to do to my '76.

Posted by: cary May 18 2015, 11:17 AM

I would think this would be a worst case scenario.
I decided to take on my worst case first.
I 'm building this to be my daily driver. It will probably be over welded and over seam sealed for most folks.

Posted by: Han Solo May 18 2015, 12:10 PM

Pretty much what this one has...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/844916-76-2-0l-parts-car-keeper.html

Posted by: cary May 25 2015, 07:38 AM

Last Friday was pretty uneventful. After servicing the truck I knocked down the rosette welds and the floor pan seam. I'm real happy with the seam. If it was going to be seen and out in the open, I could make the weld disappear. I have only one spot were it wasn't perfectly even. But the bottom will be undercoated and the interior covered with sound mat.

Posted by: cary May 30 2015, 07:08 AM

Today I fitted the inner firewall pieces. Once again, it takes some fiddling to get a nice fit. Every time you fit a piece you question whether the car is square. So you double check everything again. But at this point it isn't going to move too much.



It's really starting to become fun and rewarding.
I'm about half way thru with welding it in. Pretty tedious. Back and forth, up and down. The metal tells you when its getting too hot. The edge of your punched hole blows out. Stop, cool everything, take a break.
Oh yeah, once again dumb ass used too much weld thru primer. What a frikking mess and hassle. What a waste of wire and gas.

One thing I did learn, or teach my self. Using the 1/4" Blair/Rotacut spot weld cutter to cut the rosette holes makes a much nicer weld when combined with the self taping screw. Makes a nicer, flatter weld. If some one else was paying me for my time on a no expense spared restoration that's how'd I'd do every hole. Screws, 7.5c (Fastenal), Blair cutter head $7.50 (Airgas Online), they add up. But then so do grinding disks, flapper disks and Rolock disks. LOL.

I'll be back to it on Monday. Hopefully get that finished up and move on to the cross members.

Posted by: nathansnathan May 30 2015, 08:53 AM

Looks awesome, man. Inspiring work here.

Posted by: cary Jun 1 2015, 10:21 PM

Finished up the welding. Not real happy/proud of the flange on top of the tunnel.
Should have cut it off and replaced it.





Added a little brush on seam sealer.

Posted by: cary Jun 1 2015, 10:30 PM

On to the jack points.



Prepped and ready to go ................



Welded in, ready for the grinder.



Front jack point located.

Posted by: cary Jun 1 2015, 10:37 PM

After years of welding I'm finally getting the grinder pile down to a manageable level.



Time for a couple tools shots.

Posted by: peteyd Jun 2 2015, 09:29 AM

Im lovin' it!

great progress and job.

Posted by: cary Jun 3 2015, 01:12 PM

Back at again .........

But first, a new computer station. Repurposed an old TV wall mount.



Then I got tired of picking the the air hose (cooling) and the wire feed pliers off the floor. Which caused an outburst of profanity ....... Used a magnet from HF and a eyelet bolt.





Might build a bigger one for the pick hammer. Must be the IE in me. Spent too many years teaching folks how to do it faster and with less energy.

Off to lunch ...............

Posted by: raynekat Jun 3 2015, 06:20 PM

Was going to come out tonight (Wed, June 3), but not sure if you work at nights or just during the day?
Let me know a good day and time to come visit.
-Doug

Posted by: cary Jun 3 2015, 07:48 PM

I'm only out there during the day. I usually stay till 5:30.
I'll be back out there on Friday.

Posted by: raynekat Jun 3 2015, 07:49 PM

OK....I'll see you this Friday then.

Posted by: cary Jun 3 2015, 11:02 PM

First order of business after lunch. Change the outside splatter shield. Whoa, it was hammered. No wonder it was a little blurry.
Yesterday I turned down the sensitivity. I can finally see what I'm working on. Nice.



Dad also did an oil change on the Princesses car.

Posted by: cary Jun 3 2015, 11:26 PM

First was tidying up a few spots on the bottom of the pan. The welding is getting easier. Don't know if its the miles and hours, or I'm working on a little less rust.

Then I moved on to the inside bottom edge of the front firewall to floor pan.
Not exactly my finest hour, I should have put a new bottom edge on them.
But it welded up much better than I thought it would, and it will be covered by seam sealer. Oh well ................ lesson learned for the next one.





Then I SE primered the bottom. I'll start epoxy primering after I'm done welding.
I hate the weld thru primer splatters. Black specks ............



This put a big smile on my face.

Posted by: cary Jun 3 2015, 11:48 PM

Now on to the center braces .................... I thought I'd never get here. Like everything, it takes fiddling to get that perfect tight fit. It's beginning to become fun.



Left side fitted. Clamped in place.
I forgot to say. I have the 74 to measure and get dimensions off of. Measured off the back wall to get the correct location.

Started tinkering with the right side.



Then I decided to prep the seat adjusters. Drilled out the rosette weld holes. Then cleaned off the cutting oil in the parts cleaner. They are ready for weld thru primer on Friday.

Posted by: cary Jun 3 2015, 11:52 PM

A tool whore shot. The shear sure makes short work of the trimming.



But I wish I had a big shear that would cut thru 3ft. of 16 gauge mild steel. Maybe when I win the Powerball.

Posted by: FourBlades Jun 4 2015, 05:37 AM

You are kicking ass now!

John

Posted by: worn Jun 4 2015, 07:25 PM

I got that for Christmas. I think my son wanted one so I have it! Great things fathers and sons. Wish I had a super in law, but perhaps I will simply become one someday. Forlorn hope I suppose.

Posted by: cary Jun 5 2015, 06:50 AM

Next shop project.
We're going to build a two sided panel to store/clip all the plastic bags of parts on. It will be on wheels so it can be moved around.

It's almost time to send stuff off to be plated. So Ill go thru every bag. Photo every bag. Rename if needed.

Hmm ........... I need to find that e-brake tube/spring bracket. Having to dig thru the tub of bags isn't real handy.



On the way to the shop this am we're stopping at HF for a couple more magnets. Ace Hardware for some eye bolts and maybe some copper tubing.
Oh yeah, maybe some taller wheels for the bag panel at HF.

Time to make some coffee .................

Posted by: cary Jun 5 2015, 10:14 PM

Here are the fiddling weapons I was talking about.

Metal. Different shapes an sizes.



Something to hold the metal and wood.



Something to pound on.

Posted by: cary Jun 5 2015, 10:32 PM

Decided I'd cut out the e-brake light switch while the brace was out. Took the location and size off the yellow (74) car.



It's just a smidgen shy of a 1/2" square. Drilled a hole in each corner. Then cut between the holes with the Dremel. Should have used a smaller cutting disc. But I like the reinforced one ................ Does blow apart when you breath on it.

Posted by: cary Jun 5 2015, 11:08 PM

Now for the task at hand ...................
Forgot to shoot pictures of installing the adjustment brackets. Pretty simple. 245mm from the long. Square up. Weld in the rosettes.



Rosettes welded in. The larger ones are caused by not letting or the getting the metal cooled down.



Beautiful ending to wonderful day .................

Posted by: raynekat Jun 6 2015, 07:16 PM

Hey I need to do that passenger side movable seat install on my car.

Tried to come by on Friday, but I couldn't really find the shop.
Guess I need better directions next time.
Saw a horse stable and a farm, but nothing looking to inviting.
Better luck next time I suppose.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2015, 09:10 PM

You were there .............
It's up behind the horse stable. Turn at the third driveway.
Sorry I didn't give the phone number with the address.

Let's call it a unique arrangement, .15c sq. ft. utilities paid.

Posted by: cary Jun 6 2015, 10:36 PM

Yours is fixed ?

Posted by: Andyrew Jun 6 2015, 10:51 PM

Great looking work!! Turn your wire speed down or your temp up on your mig, your welds are a hair large

Posted by: cary Jun 7 2015, 07:02 AM

I think I'm going to tinker with turning the wire speed down just a hair. This is a good test area because I can look a the penetration from the back side.
On this beautiful RD Galvanneal I run the Miller 180 (220v) at 17 on the thickness gauge (heat) and 45 on the speed.

Thanks for the critique ....

Posted by: cary Jun 13 2015, 07:53 AM

So we have another day to play. First half of the was spent unloading the enclosed trailer full of the middle kids stuff into the warehouse.

Then onto the seat mount/hinges. Watched the RD video a couple times, Adam does a nice job. Tried doing the hinge tack on the first one. Just didn't work with the door braces in the way. Really pretty simple. The hinge pin is supposed to be centered right at the peak of the mount. Just scribed a line on the mount and aligned the hinge pin the line.

First step was to get everything in place. Bad part, looks like the seat frames will need a little restoration. Handle shaft has some rust. I'm thinking yellow cad plating on the handle ?



A couple shots of the hinge welding.





Once again lots of time spent cooling the metal. Rosette welds still a little too big. Turned down the wire speed, which made them flatter. But still to wide.
Maybe Next Time. But the welding is just about over. Next will be the door sills.



Sitting here watching the first hour of Lemans on Fox Sports 2.
Then off to my first PCA Arrive and Drive rally in the Carrera. 100 mile drive with 40 or 50 Porsche's. Tomorrow will be spent at the Rose Cup races at PIR.
Might squeeze in a 30-40 bike ride after the arrive and drive.

Posted by: saigon71 Jun 14 2015, 04:20 PM

Fine work tackling some serious rust!

Posted by: cary Jun 22 2015, 10:38 PM

Back to work. Finished grinding down the spot welds and touching up the backside.
Kind of tricky grinding. A lot of using the outside edge.
Then proceeded to apply the first layer of brush on seam sealer.



Spent the first half of the day putting new pads and rotors on the pickup. What a messy job ................ That brake dust gets everywhere.

Then took out the lower door brace so I can start working on the door sill.

Posted by: cary Jun 22 2015, 10:42 PM

Another Tool Whore shot.



Bought a good set of butt weld clamps for re-attaching the rear fender.
I've already bent the crap out of the HF ones.

Posted by: cary Jun 23 2015, 08:48 AM

Just finished reading Michelko's, Digging into Hell. Kind of wish I'd used POR15 along the way. Looks so nice and tidy after he finished a section. Oh Well ...

Looking at buying a fresh air respirator before I start shooting the epoxy primer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fresh-Air-Respirator-breathing-half-1-2-mask-/380153845245

I'm going with prepping the metal with OSPHO, then SPI epoxy primer. After that, spray on seam sealer, for the factory look.
I am brushing on sealer sealer over SEM self etching primer in the spot/rosette welded areas as I go.

Posted by: raynekat Jun 23 2015, 02:24 PM

Dude.....you gonna come out and work on mine too sometime?



Seriously....after looking at your rotisserie, I'd like one but don't have the lift to get the shell onto it.
Need to do the seat bracket thing on my car for sure.
But I think the paint & body shop I'm going to use can handle it.

All in all, you're the "man."
So much work you've been knocking out.
Do you really have a "real" job too?
hehe
Where do you find the time?

Plus you must have a godzillion dollars worth of new-ish tools as well.

Well done young man.....

Posted by: cary Jun 23 2015, 02:49 PM

If you buy a rotisserie most have a lift built in.
I try to do as much done as I can in two days per week that I have ............. This is my sanity check

But now it will be three weeks before I get back. AX this Sunday and the STP bike ride the week after.

Posted by: cary Jun 23 2015, 08:47 PM

Very Productive Day .............

Started by removing my frame/jig that has been on there a couple years.
Now we're making progress.



Without jig. That allowed me to tidy up the seams and rosettes that I couldn't get to with the jig in the way.

Posted by: cary Jun 23 2015, 09:13 PM

On to the task at hand.
Installing the door sills.



Rosettes went real well. A little more heat, a little less wire speed.
But it almost feels like cheating, welding new metal to new metal.



Then I installed the braces. Used the tri square to line up the top screws.





Added a third brace. Salvaged off the old stuff.

Posted by: cary Jun 23 2015, 09:54 PM

Then I moved on to the door jam .............. That's dandy piece. Not an RD manufactured part and it shows. If you look at your door jam. All the bends are acute 90 angles. But on this piece they're all rounded. So there as quite a bit of reworked to get it to fit nice.

Then Mr. Patience let the metal at the butt weld get too hot. I had it almost perfect on the first pass. Ground down the weld with the flapper disk. Then went to add just a smidgen in the low spot.

Made a mess ................ time to walk away. Should have had another project going at the same time. Dammit ...............

I'm going to have to look into cooling gel.






Attached image(s)

Posted by: cary Jun 23 2015, 10:01 PM

So I went to look at the fender that needs to be welded back on. Looks like I need to remove the old door jam material from the backside of the fender.
That's going to take some doing to get it out of there without bending the fender.
I didn't leave myself a lot of space to work. There's about 10 spot welds to drill out.

Posted by: trojanhorsepower Jul 1 2015, 04:57 PM

Cary,
Was that 245mm from the long to one edge of the bracket? If so which edge? Or center?

Posted by: worn Jul 1 2015, 06:08 PM

Cary, I cannot tell you how I admire this thread. Really bringing a crusher bait to life. So very cool. So very cool. Have you been contacted by the Smithsonian by any chance? They oughta snap it up while it is still affordable. They would let you drive it of course. I really like seeing your posts. It gives me faith.

Posted by: cary Jul 1 2015, 10:31 PM

Its from the inside of the of the hook side of the bracket to the long. Going from memory. I'll confirm tomorrow.
When you go to set the seat frame into the bottom hook on the teeth. Don't tap it in tight with a hammer. Just use your hands. I'm going to have to grind off just a smidgeon on the bottom tooth. It catches just a little bit when going up.



I'm going to pickup another tub tomorrow night after work. No title 1976. I know I'll need a donor car in the future. Couldn't pass it up for, shhhhhh $75.
Firewall looks good. Windshield frame looks good. Based on past experience. I'll come home with a whole pickup load of stuff.
From what I've been told this guy has a bunch of stuff.

Posted by: cary Jul 1 2015, 10:34 PM

[/quote]
Cary, I cannot tell you how I admire this thread. Really bringing a crusher bait to life. So very cool. So very cool. Have you been contacted by the Smithsonian by any chance? They oughta snap it up while it is still affordable. They would let you drive it of course. I really like seeing your posts. It gives me faith.
[/quote]

That's the best part. Starting with my worst car. It's all down hill from here.
Thanks for the words of encouragement.

Posted by: trojanhorsepower Jul 2 2015, 06:59 PM

Thanks! I will wait for your follow up.

Posted by: cary Jul 3 2015, 07:43 AM

I stand corrected. Its to the outside of the hook to the long.

Posted by: cary Jul 3 2015, 08:02 AM

Here's the donor/parts car. I could have picked a better day, traffic wise. Took two hours to make the one hour trip.









It will have some good parts. Has all the rust in the usual places. Looks like someone started a V-8 conversion. We'll cut out the harness for color matching repair pieces.

Surprisingly it has some really good weather striping channel in the front trunk.

Posted by: worn Jul 3 2015, 09:29 AM

OMG Cary! This is the beginning of, no never mind, you are already sliding down that slope regardless of it being slippery or not.

Posted by: cary Jul 3 2015, 09:39 AM

Don't even go there ............... I'm sick.

My Lottery dream would be a 10,000 square ft. shop lined with racks like this filled with 914 tubs.

Posted by: Luke M Jul 3 2015, 03:11 PM

Hey Cary,

Great job on the car. I have a question for you.
I see that you grafted the door jam on the drivers side.
I did the same to my brothers car but the new piece vs the factory part seams to be different. The outside edge is sharp vs curved on the new piece. I can't tell by the pic you posted but it's in the area that's circled in this pic.

Thanks,


Attached image(s)

Posted by: cary Jul 3 2015, 08:29 PM

Yes you are correct. It had to be reshaped to match up.

Posted by: Luke M Jul 4 2015, 01:27 PM

Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured that and the route I'm taking too.

Posted by: cary Jul 4 2015, 01:30 PM

Scroll up to post #426. It shows all the different shapes I use.go

Posted by: trojanhorsepower Jul 4 2015, 03:48 PM

Thanks Cary!
Might be able to get those welded in this weekend.

Posted by: cary Jul 4 2015, 04:46 PM

Go verrrrry slow with your stich welding.
Mine got too hot.

Posted by: trojanhorsepower Jul 6 2015, 06:09 PM

Thanks Cary. Is that part sitting on the floor pan? or up a little. If so, how much?

Posted by: cary Jul 13 2015, 09:12 AM

Well, life takes another twist. I'm getting transferred again. For the first time in my life I'll be able to walk to work. I don't think its really even sunk in yet.
I'll be at the Haggen in Sherwood, Oregon. I believe this will be the toughest challenge of my long career
The life math : $5000 gain in cash flow and 7-8 hours per week of my life back not sitting traffic

Today is my 4th of July holiday day off. So we'll be heading out to the shop to tidy up the door jam.

Posted by: cary Jul 13 2015, 09:27 AM

Side Note : Took the family out to dinner at the Original Taco House in SE Portland after completing the Seattle to Portland bike ride/tour.

So I was thinking this might be my last trip to that side of town for a while. I'd seen a couple MORE 914 bodies out of the corner of my eye a couple weeks ago.
So we did drive by. Both look pretty good. Too bad they've been sitting outside in the PDX rain. They're inside of a locked fence so we couldn't get up close. I'm going to have to plan to make a trip back over there and strike up a conversation.

Posted by: cary Jul 13 2015, 09:29 AM

Trojanhorsepower I'll get you the answer when I get to the shop. I think they're sitting on the pan.

Posted by: cary Jul 13 2015, 09:35 PM

The seat adjuster bracket is sitting on the floor pan.
One car has it welded to the floor itself. The other doesn't.

Posted by: cary Jul 13 2015, 09:45 PM

Todays work ..................

Here's were we started.



Here's were I ended.



Not my finest work. Nothing a little finishing putty wont fix.
Way toooooooooooo much grinder action. Material got to thin.

No butt clamps on the other side. We'll try the Cleco's fasteners.

Posted by: cary Jul 13 2015, 09:52 PM

Donor in its temporary home. Super In Law spent the day with pencil and paper engineering his car stacker design.

Posted by: cary Jul 17 2015, 09:24 PM

I decided that I will MIG weld the jam to sill joint. Then we'll tidy it up with All Metal body filler.

Posted by: cary Jul 18 2015, 08:17 AM

After getting the jam seams welded I moved on to installing the rocker end cap we fabricated some time ago. This car had quite a bit of rust repair in the inner fender/hinge post area when we made the car road worthy many years ago. Some good, some bad.
I'm just working on it being functional. If I run into this on another car. The fender will have to come off and be refitted.







Now that I look at the bottom of that left front fender I may decide to cut that out and recreate it. But I need to keep reminding myself this is going to be a daily driver.
As these cars continue to go up in value and the front fender is welded on. Maybe RD will look at making a patch panel for this area. I think there's one for both the 911 and the 356. I'll look and see what the one looks like on the donor on Monday.

We cut the rocker cover channel off because it was so rotten when we took apart the car. Either way it will have to be recreated. Looks like in our first go around we did some welding and took correct shape out of the bottom edge of the fender. It kind nof rolls down and it isn't attached to the inner support.



When the time comes both sides will get some VERY detailed seam sealing, both tube and spray on. Then they'll get undercoated. Then on top of that they get Mark's inner fender liners to keep the debri from getting up there in the first place.

I did test fit the rocker cover.

Posted by: cary Jul 18 2015, 08:24 AM

Then I moved on to installing the right door sill. Pretty uneventful.



I have some welding to do around the bottom of the hinge post where I recreated the layers. Right at the bottom radius.

Posted by: cary Jul 20 2015, 08:21 PM

Onto to fitting, fiddling, cutting and installing the right door jam.
Here's where we start. Not exactly a high quality recreation. The the odd thing with both of these pieces, they seem to be made of a softer metal.



Then on to matching up the edges.





I used the fine wheel on the bench grinder to cut down and square up the edges.
Now we start lining things up .................

Posted by: cary Jul 20 2015, 08:44 PM

After lining things up. I scribed the back and cut it off with the cut off wheel. When I made the cut I left the line on. It was too tight. But I'll do the same thing again.

Once again I cut it back with the bench grinder. That gave me a nice tight fit.





Took it back off and brushed on the weld thru primer before we went to lunch.

Posted by: cary Jul 20 2015, 08:59 PM

This time I took my time.

I just wish the metal was a little bit harder and a little thicker.
You do need to turn up the heat just a smidgeon when you tie the welds together.

Knowing that I'll be using All Metal on the sill seam I didn't over grind it.



Much better. I still don't think I'll be able to weld the fender back on like Jeff ail did.
But it will be pretty close. Its more about being able to keep the two pieces level.



At the end of the day. She's covered with SE primer and ready for next time.

Posted by: cary Jul 20 2015, 09:05 PM

While I'm working in the big shop. Super In Law is working on the new 12,000 lb winch he bought. A little over kill for pulling cars onto the trailer. He's fabricating it to mount into the 2*2 trailer hitch. Plus we'll add a tube to the floor of the open car trailer.

Posted by: cary Jul 21 2015, 07:01 AM

Another installment of the Tool Whore show.
I bought 4 of these when we stopped at the steel/welding supply shop.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Roloc-2-Inch-Zirconia-Pieces/dp/B007SX2LQI/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG300F91PWYM27TTSGG
Very impressive. I'll have to had them to my arsenal. But bad news, don't drop your die grinder, they snap right off.

Posted by: cary Aug 4 2015, 07:00 AM

Added the sill supports to the right side. This time I decided to pre drill the top holes first.





All tidied up and primered.

Posted by: cary Aug 4 2015, 07:10 AM

Now on to the BIG task. I will begin to prep the entire bottom of the car for epoxy primer.
I still have a little work to do with the e-brake. But I'm getting antsy to start shooting primer to make it look like we've made some progress. I've been reluctant, because every time you do some grinder work everything gets filthy.

Here's the starting point.



Yesterday I took a trip out to KleenBlast the blasting material supplier out in North Portland and bought 5 bags of the Fine GlassBlast. The equivalent of walnut shells.
I thought I'd roll the dice ..............................

Posted by: cary Aug 4 2015, 08:41 PM

Wow, this stuff was impressive.
Even with my cheezy HF sand blaster with the upgraded deadman valve.
http://abrasive-equipment.kleenindustrialservices.com/viewitems/specialty-abrasives-blast-media/glassblast?&bc=100|1189|1226

Doing the work was actually fun. I only had to wear a face shield and and a welding cap. In hindsight I should have wore ear plugs. I still have glass beads in my ears.
Blasting using sand puts out so much dust you have wear a hood and face mask.

In 2 hours I have the entire front pan ready to go.

Posted by: dangerranger01 Aug 4 2015, 08:44 PM

Looking good! What are the specs on your air compressor?

Posted by: DirtyCossack Aug 4 2015, 08:47 PM

My favorite thread did not let me down today! Love it.

Posted by: cary Aug 4 2015, 09:01 PM

I don't know right off the top of my head. It was working pretty hard.
The first thing I'll do on Thursday is check the oil and drain the water. I did seem to slow down a couple times. So I hung up the gun and let it catch up. I will get you the numbers on Thursday night. I'm pretty sure it was largest one that Home Depot sold 10 years ago.

I forgot to say that I cleaned up the front fenders too............... with the little blaster it didn't seem to heat up the flat panels.

It was a good day !!!

We'll go back out there on Thursday AM and get 10 bags this time.

Posted by: cary Aug 6 2015, 08:36 PM

Here is the info on the compressor
7hp 220v.





I probably drained a quart of water out of the pit-cock. It took probably 3 oz of compressor oil.

What I learned today is I'm going to add a pressure gauge to the blaster pot so I can see when the compressor isn't keeping up. At a full head of steam it cuts like raped ape. As it drops below 80 psi it slows the cutting down a bit. Cheap work around

Knowing what I know now. I'd buy an 80 gallon, 5 hp, two stage. That's on my pre retirement equipment upgrade list. But they start at $1600.

Posted by: cary Aug 6 2015, 10:08 PM

Another Episode of Tool Whore:

Stopped at HF to pick up some replacement nozzles for the dead-man valve.



This is my 20# HF blaster. If I had to do it all over again I'd buy the 50# unit.
We put the legs on it so I can wiggle it to get the material into the siphon when your getting to the end of the pot fill.



Here is Super In Law shortening the legs on the blaster. The glass beads don't have the clogging issue that sand does.



Then I picked up some new stuff for my tumbler. I got the recipe from a couple guys doing some restoration work here in PDX. Basically I was looking for a simple prep for hardware prior to going out for cad plating.

Only issue with the first batch was the wing nut backing out and the slurry being flung all over the cabinets.
So a word to the wise. Double nut the top before you start your batch.





I'm going to stop at the hardware store and get a barrel nut for the bottom one.

Posted by: cary Aug 6 2015, 10:24 PM

This is only issue that I found after the first day of blasting.



The bottom of the right head light bucket. I haven't taken a good enough look at it to determine my plan of attack. Probably just a small patch piece

Posted by: cary Aug 6 2015, 10:48 PM

Now back to the task at hand ................

Here's our load of beads from this morning. 10 bags.



Then I get right to work. Off she comes, slick as a whistle.



The back half of the trunk came off real easy. Then I decide to do it right, the muffler heat shield needs to come off. There's no way to get things cleaned up right with it in the way.

First thing to do is locate the spot welds.



Came off pretty easy. Next time I would use 3/8" spot weld cutter. The 1/4" I usually use was too small.



On a side note. The first 3 pot fills were done with reclaimed material. Super In Law collected it out of the pool and with a broom and dust pan. Then ran it thru a screen.
Seemed to work the same. Maybe a little dustier.

Posted by: cary Aug 16 2015, 08:50 AM

Just realized that I didn't shoot a picture of under the heat shield after it was stripped. I'll shoot a couple today.

On the last trip I pulled it out and continued to work on the inside of the rear fenders. Its little harder to blast, theres no where for the blast to exit. It makes it kind of hard to see. But it continues to do a great job. I'm going to buy a replacement dead man valve, an inline water collector and a pressure gauge on the way home. The closure plate on the valve has worn out.

I decided that I'll blast off the POR 15 that I applied in the trunk rather than purchase the tie in primer. I'd kind of been leaning toward just cleaning and scuffing the good paint in the trunk. But going to come off too.

Here's a shot of the beginning of the POR 15 removal before it started to rain.



After the thunderstorm started I decided to weld in the e-brake pieces. Pretty easy to locate when I still have the donor car still sitting in the room. The front end of the guide lines up with the front of the hole in the long. The wall mount is basically centered between the end of the guide and the center support.



Then I grabbed the new suspension ear and began to ponder its installation. Really pretty simple. It just needs to be 3/16" out farther from the firewall than my first install. Which means it slides up the long. The problem is, that might put it in the indentation on the new upper long piece. We'll see.

Posted by: worn Aug 17 2015, 07:49 AM

Great work as always. A warning: I got one of the glass beads under my eyelid a few years ago. Rolled in and didn't want to roll back out. Even after it was gone it felt like it was there for a few hours. So, keep covered up some. Nice weather out there this time of year, so good working conditions. Here sunny equals humid most of the time and you get rust.

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2015, 08:09 AM

I wear a complete face shield. Wraps around my big head pretty good.

My only issue is the moisture build up in the compressor running it so long. Today I'll add a filter at the blaster pot and see what I catch. Looks like I need to pony up and add a drier right after the compressor lines come thru the wall to catch the majority of it. The filter I'll use today will get mounted inline right before my primary 100ft. hose reel eventually.

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2015, 08:18 AM

Today's forecast. 91 degrees, 75% humidity. We've been about 50% most of the summer. So rust hasn't been an issue.
Time to get things covered up.

I'm off all week, so I hope to make some progress this week.

Now that the e-brake guide is in I might spray the bottom of the floor pan this morning. I'd like to see how this SPI epoxy preforms. Getting antsy ....

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2015, 09:37 PM

Here's the rear after the heat shield was removed and the area was blasted.

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2015, 09:47 PM

Here's the additions to my blaster set up.





After watching the gauge. It works like a raped ape at 130 PSI. Continues to cut pretty good until it drops below 100 PSI. By then you need to pause and let the dust settle.

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2015, 09:52 PM

Here's where we started the day.



Here's where we ended.



Let's just say it was hot. 90 degrees in the shade. Started the day with overalls and my welding coat. Ended shorts and a t-shirt.

Didn't get to shoot any primer. Way to hot. But I rolled it back inside and wiped it down so it would be ready on the next trip.

Posted by: cary Aug 17 2015, 09:54 PM

My vacation cabana. Complete with a pool and a beach.

Posted by: cary Aug 19 2015, 12:08 PM

Nice start to a hot day ..............



It's been a long time since I've a had a spray gun in my hand. By the time I get done primering the car I should have adjusting the gun down.

Adjust air pressure for runs
Adjust gun for orange peel

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!adjusting-your-gun/c1lfc

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 12:01 AM

Then we went on to installing the right suspension mount for the second time. When it was all said and done. It moved out from the firewall 5/16 of an inch. It is now dead on.
From Jeff Hail's yellow pad notes : 33 1/2 outside to outside of the ear holes



Left and right are exactly the same distance from center hole on the fire wall.

Posted by: ndfrigi Aug 20 2015, 12:13 AM

Hi Sir, Can I hijack on your build thread? I just installed my passenger rear suspension console also a few months ago on my 71 1.7 but haven't finish it yet since then.
Are you planning to install or weld back the small pieces of metal underneath? (shown on my picture which I still have to add more metal to cover those spaces).

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 01:28 AM

By 3pm it was a little too hot to paint.



Just shy of 100 in the shade.

But we're all prepped to primer both the front and rear first thing.





Wire cup brush took off the `flash rust.

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 09:16 AM

Yes you need more. It needs to tie both halves together.
Here's a link to a guy who recreated the ties. Hope this helps.

http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/rust-diary/rd-9-1-08.html

That's what we're going to work on while I'm letting the epoxy dry.

Posted by: Spoke Aug 20 2015, 10:27 AM

Nice job on the clean up and rustoration.

I had to remove the heat shield as well for my car. Decided to make it an item which I can easily remove so I added welded nuts to the hangers and can now bolt and unbolt the shield.

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 12:23 PM

Good idea. I bought the tool when I lowered the seats in my 911.

Posted by: ndfrigi Aug 20 2015, 01:16 PM

Thanks for your response sir! And nice restoration you are doing sir, I have been watching your restoration since you started it!

Posted by: barefoot Aug 20 2015, 01:48 PM

The back half of the trunk came off real easy. Then I decide to do it right, the muffler heat shield needs to come off. There's no way to get things cleaned up right with it in the way.

First thing to do is locate the spot welds.



Came off pretty easy. Next time I would use 3/8" spot weld cutter. The 1/4" I usually use was too small.



[[/quote]
On mine since i was replacing the rear trunk back section, I cut the heat shield standoffs out at the trunk side and left them attached to the heat shield.
On re-assembly, i used SS pop rivets to reattach

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 01:53 PM

Started the day at Newberg Steel for some 12 gauge scraps to create the suspension tie. $6.84.

Here's a couple shots of the right side. Still complete. We'll use it as our pattern.





Here's the King of Cardboard getting after the pattern.

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 01:58 PM

Now we're getting somewhere. Heading to lunch to let it dry.

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 09:32 PM

Super In Law spent the entire day working on the upper/smaller tie. The 12 gauge is a little tough to work with. He's trying to create it one piece. Our equipment just isn't heavy enough.



Not quite ready to weld in. I think we'll build the other one two piece.

Posted by: cary Aug 20 2015, 10:16 PM

So I kind of spent the afternoon puttering.

1. Filled a few spot weld cut outs on the outer suspension mount.
2. Finished a couple welds on the tabs that attach the door sills to the base of the hinge post.
3. Then went to tackle the holes on the front pan under the headlight bucket. I was feeling good about my welding touch. So I elected to weld up the holes.
They about doubled before I hit good solid material.





4. Then I broke out the tube seam sealer and sealed the gap between the door sills and the outer long.





Pretty easy to do when the car is upside down.

5. Then I located and screwed the jack plates in place. Ready to weld in tomorrow. Looks like I'll need to add some drain holes. I"ll probably put two on each one.

Posted by: Luke M Aug 21 2015, 08:38 AM

Make sure you weld the square tube in place before the cover plate..

Posted by: DirtyCossack Aug 21 2015, 10:05 AM

I gratefully request you to post pictures of the ties before you weld them on. Thanks

Posted by: cary Aug 21 2015, 12:20 PM

Will do. Stopped by the dealership this am.
All four parts are NLA. So fabrication is the only answer.
The 12 guage is over our paygrade, wish we had a forge. So the big ass hammer is the tool of choice, leaves it kind of ugly.

Posted by: cary Aug 21 2015, 11:39 PM

Started the day with welding in the jack posts.

Posted by: cary Aug 21 2015, 11:54 PM

Super In Law finally finished the upper tie. A little crude, but it will work.







He built it a little bigger than the factory one on the other side. I predrilled 5 rosette holes. Then it was ready to weld.





I know its over welded. But I just can't help myself. I just love melting metal. LOL.

I drilled a drain hole thru both layers. I also opened up the drain on the suspension console.

Posted by: DirtyCossack Aug 22 2015, 08:24 AM

For working with 12gauge, I don't consider that crude at all. I'm dreading having to make them in the coming months and almost wonder if doubling up 18 or 20 could accomplish the task.

Posted by: cary Aug 30 2015, 07:53 AM

After a couple other family automotive issues we got to spend the afternoon back on the car.

Super In Law (Grandpa Jack) went to work on the suspension console tie.
It was created in two pieces like the one on the web hypertext.

Test fit .............



As far as I got welding before it was time to head home.

Posted by: cary Aug 30 2015, 08:12 AM

I decided to dissect the crappy patch job on the right front fender.

Starting point.



Kind of hard too see because of the steel color. But I cut it out in 2 pieces.That made it easier to get at the back of the spot welds.



Then I made my Ed (Wheeler Dealer) pattern. That technique comes in real handy.



Went to my sheet of 18 gauge. Laid the tape on the steel and cut it out using my HF shears. I hate to admit it but the HF one cuts better the our Old Milwaukie pair.

Posted by: cary Aug 30 2015, 08:27 AM

Then on to welding it in.
I could have used 2 or 3 of these. The pair I have are too small for the right side. The 4" ones worked great for the left side.
http://www.cometsupply.com/mp/IRWIN/pm/IRW24SP/r/ga/? gclid=Cj0KEQjw04qvBRC6vfKG2Pi0_8gBEiQAAJq0vTyuIYcZZoY8iN_HTDqkj1coqlAQyBlr98d7Z3
Q6bCgaArxg8P8HAQ





Looks like I'm on the right track. Taking my time, cooling with air, moving all around the piece. The bottom piece is kind of crappy. As you can tell from the holes blown thru it.
I think I'll hold off on the grinder until I'm finished. I'm a little grinder happy

I'm challenging myself to be able to put my cut off fenders back on without a huge amount of filler. Using Jeff Hail's example as my goal.

Posted by: DirtyCossack Aug 30 2015, 08:50 AM

That's purdy. And your suspension ties look about as good as the factory ones on mine.

Posted by: saigon71 Aug 30 2015, 10:38 AM

Excellent work as usual!

Those console ties look great. I found them to be a challenge to fabricate as well & ended up doing each one in three sections.

Keep on truckin!

Posted by: cary Aug 30 2015, 08:23 PM

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I think I'm going to add another piece to the top.

Posted by: cary Aug 31 2015, 09:14 PM

Another day at the shop. I would call this one a so so day.

Started by finishing up the welding in of the suspension tie. Just for fun I decided to give the Millermatic function a try. On the 12 gauge stuff it worked like a dream. Unbelievable.

I should have tightened up my E's to stack the puddles a little tighter.



So I decided to try it on the front fender is was working on. BIG MISTAKE. I blew a hole with the first weld. It went form bad to worse. Today was a turd. I had visions of grandeur of getting it welded in perfectly with invisible welds.

Now that I now where the crappy steel is. I'll cut it out AGAIN and do it over.

Posted by: cary Aug 31 2015, 09:29 PM

While I was cussing up a storm. Super In Law was creating a new end cap for the long/rocker panel.







Once the welds are ground down I'll seal things up with brush on seam sealer. Then we'll spray it with 2 coats of epoxy primer. Then we'll apply spray on seam sealer.

Posted by: cary Aug 31 2015, 09:54 PM

While he was finishing the end cap. I welded in the patch on the bottom of the fender.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Sep 1 2015, 07:39 AM

Lovin' it.

Posted by: cary Sep 6 2015, 07:49 AM

Another episode of Tool Whore





Ran across this manufacturing oven while looking for a frame rack. Building a powder coating oven was one of our next projects. This will give us a good start. Its about the same size as our wall oven here at the house 19*15*18.

I still want to get a frame bench before I restore my 911. So I keep an eye out on Craigslist every once in a while. I've conceded the fact that I'll never be able to find or afford a Celette.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-CELETTE-SEVENNE-DEDICATED-JIGS-BENCH-APPROVED-by-BMW-PORSCHE-AUDI-MERCEDES-/221839565512?hash=item33a6ab22c8&item=221839565512&vxp=mtr

I'm most interested in the table and pinch weld mounts. I know I'll have to create my own shock towers for both a 914 and 911. The search continues. I low balled a price on one in Seattle. Pissed the guy off. We'll see if he comes back.

Posted by: cary Sep 15 2015, 07:58 PM

Left front fender round two. I cut out the section again. Just didn't like it.

A shot of the cut out. Then a shot of the patch all set up and a couple opening tacks.
Last grind on the right side was a bit too much. Wish me luck. Plan on backing every tack with a brass backer.





I thought I should go into a little more detail on the patch panel. We used the cut out section as the pattern. Dah. But we needed to create the folded over seam edge for strength. So I decided to use the air flange tool to start the fold. Then moved to the metal brake to bend it. Then we flattened it with a hammer. Then we finished it off with the 12 ton press. Using the blocks that come with the press to sandwich the patch.
So next we needed to create the radius in the fender. Once again we used the cut out section as the pattern. Ground the double edge down to match the pattern. Then welded the edge closed. Ground the welds down to bring in back to a finished edge. If needed I'll use All Metal to final finish the edge.
That isn't a very good shot of the fender edge. You see the hinge post in the background making it look like I left the welding.

Below is the flange tool.
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP207AL

Posted by: cary Sep 16 2015, 08:50 PM

Slow and steady wins the race....................





The day went real well. I took my time welding it in stitch by stitch. A couple spots got a little too hot. But in the end it went in relatively flat.



I'm a little paranoid on over grinding. Thins the metal too much. I'll use All Metal to smooth out the imperfections.

Posted by: cary Sep 16 2015, 08:58 PM

New Episode of Tool Whore .............

Magnetic Welding Backer from TP Tools. Worked great. Keeps the back real tidy.



Then I bought a bottle of cooling gel. Its working good too. Not sure how it works. But it does.

Posted by: cary Sep 16 2015, 09:20 PM

Then on to adding the rocker panel channel. I cut off the rotten portion earlier.



Super In Law created the piece.



So have cut off wheel will travel. Off came the bottom of the fender. Trimmed the new piece to fit.



Then back to stitching. Once again took my time. Used the backer to absorb the heat.
Used the cooling gel to knock down the temp.



Gave it a couple passes with the DA.

Posted by: cary Sep 17 2015, 09:28 AM

Todays task will be finishing the fender.
Yellow squiggles will get a little bit of All Metal.
Looking back I should have flipped it over when I welded the upper line. It's not flat enough. That's the lower line in the picture.
There is a good sized dimple in the middle (circle). It's perfectly smooth So I'll try and shrink that out. I knew that it was there when I started. But I didn't to hammer on it.

Posted by: cary Sep 17 2015, 10:25 PM

Here's where I was at after the guide coat was sanded off. This was done after some reworking with the shrinking disk.



Here's where I ended the day. The circled area is the last low area.
What you see is the skim coat at 80 GR. Other than the one low spot. She is silky smooth.

Posted by: cary Sep 17 2015, 10:34 PM

Super In Law went to work on the cover for the inner hole on the bottom of the targa bar. This is up inside the fender. We're going way beyond what the factory did.
Below is the opening.



Making the pattern. I think this is version #4. The others are on the floor.



Cardboard pattern installed. We're going to drill drain/vent holes of the metal piece.

Posted by: cary Sep 18 2015, 08:43 AM

Last work day for this vacation. Forecast is for 76 degrees. We'll push it out and do some more bead blasting to get the inner fenders cleaned out. And finish up the rear trunk. I hope get everything epoxy primed before it gets cool.

I'm having an open house with a group of my Pelican 911 buddies tomorrow. If anyone is interested in stopping by PM me. 11am - 2pm.

Posted by: cary Sep 19 2015, 08:47 AM

Got most everything blasted until I wore out my HF Deadman Valve.

I got the fender almost finished. Once everything was smoothed out I found a high spot dimple from one of the back side welds. Dammit ........



When I was sanding I opened up another thin spot along the rolled edge. Pretty scary. It would gone thru the paint in a few years. There's one on other side. I'll shoot a picture today after I open it up with the pick.