I have A.D.D. I admit it. I also can't leave well enough alone. I got really motivated by Andrew Dalen and seeing a 914 with Subie power driving to WCR12 from Idaho. What a beautiful car...
I stumbled on a steal of a deal for a 2001 Passat 1.8t, Audi ATW engine and 5 speed transaxle. Long story short and here you go. New engine cleaned and ready for fab time. The exhaust and turbo have been removed before power washing.
Here is a link to Part I
Here is the challenge. The transaxle. Either I fab an adapter, Fab an axle to take 1 Porsche CV and 1 Audi/VW CV or Replace with Boxster tranny, that will: Bolt right on, Shifter is cheap and available and requires less fab time. I'm leaning to the Boxster due to the 100mm Porsche CV flange. The Audi is 114mm.
This is whats left of the wiring after the car gets gutted. The ECU and gauge cluster have a symbiotic relationship. They work together and have to stay together to run. It looks like it will fit nicely into the stock location. I may have to adjust the column lower and build an trim ring around the cluster.
So now I need to junk this Passat. Last time I junked a car was 20 years ago. Will they pick up a car or do I have to deliver it?
I also need to stock up on some DOM tubing and stuff. Think my welding supplies are good for now. Might need a bigger bottle for the MIG.
My back feels better too... But now I'm exhausted...
I believe you can swap out the tripoid transaxle flages for the ones that are compatible with the Porsche CV. I used to know this stuff from memory, but......... On mine I went from tripoid to Porsche by machining my own adapters, but I also widened the bearing hubs. Keep in mind, the flanges on that 012 trans may not be symmetrical about the centerline of the trans; they weren't on my 01e. Inseted of goofing with axles, etc, I simply mounted the engine/trans off center by about 3/4".
Glad to hear your back is feeling better. Man, you sure like a challenge, don't you? Looking forward to seeing how this works out, not that I would do it myself.
Good luck to ya,
Here is the stock K03 turbo. It hangs from a chincy looking cast iron manifold. There are high flow cast replacement manifolds cheap. A K04 is a bolt on upgrade for this turbo. Bigger I guess... More better power
The stock dump/CAT pipe is 4" OD. Looks like connecting to my 4" exhaust is easy. I picked up this 4" flex too. A V band on one side and done. I will gut the CAT and shorten the chamber after I get to engine in the car.
Ever wondered what was inside? Is this platinum? Should I recycle it?
Here is a DAPO mod to boost spring pressure. You shorten the rod by bending a "Z" into the rod. This one is a "V" and bound on the edge of the canister. This boost dump would be lees predictable and may suffer from boost creep or slow dump. Do it right or don't do it...
Years ago I had REVO flash the ecu to eliminate the cluster and a few emission control points. When I first converted to the 012, I had custom axles with the tripoid inners. When they started to wear, I had flange adapters made that equalized the output offset and allow me to use 944 joints.
I do. Give me abit to find them though.
My setup fits ok top tp bottom, but some metal fab or removal will be in order for the rear of the engine. I did my VW 1.8t using a self-made crossmember to use the stock body mounting points.
I have loved the Sasquatch build btw... I actually wanted to comment on the K04 upgrade... If I can talk you out of it, I will try. The turbo is not a good add on for this engine stock. The efficiency is all at the wrong points and often blows these engines. If you want a good upgrade there is an outfit called frankenturbo that builds a hybrid for the 1.8t that is a perfect match. I drive an 02 GTI as my DD and spend a lot of time with these engines. I have thought about this same swap and I am glad to see someone doing it. Can't wait to see the progress!
Nice ill be watching. Cat converter guts arnt worth much. the recyclers like to see the whole cat so they know what theyre getting. Since all cats have different metal content prices are all over the map
Let me know if you need the trailer for the passat.
Btw- nice project
Check to see about poping out the drive flanges from the trans and put in the boxster ones. When we were trying to decide what to do for axels someone told me to put the 6speed boxster drive flanges in so we could get larger cvs. They were wrong but I had to pop out the flanges to verify this info and it was very easy to do.
Interesting project, just wondered if they flash the ecu, does that also do away with the key coding?
Here's a photo of an 012 trans with the flanges that are compatible with the Porsche CV's.
012_trans.bmp ( 147.32k ) Number of downloads: 207
If the flanges are held in with a circlip, they look easy to pop out. Anyone have an Audi PET file with tranny parts?
Mike you do have ADD, ha! Your 914 is like a drivable engine test stand...
Nice project though, engine swaps are always the fun part.
If i remember correctly the drive flanges just pop out. I just went out and looked at my car and can not remember removing any hidden clips or anything. Pretty sure about that.
That is what I remember
Sent the Passat to the wrecking yard today. Fuching tow truck driver stole my wheel chock. They did pick it up for free. Not much left but some interior and suspension. Body was rough, no cherry panels. Glad its gone. Now it's time to clean up the garage and get the 914 inside and stripped apart... again...
Parts heaven wants $100ea for the axle stubs and $250 for the complete Boxster shift setup. This includes all the parts from the PET shifter page. I can get the shifter stuff from ebay cheaper but not complete. It will take weeks/months of waiting for items to pop up online. I can buy a complete but unknown Boxster tranny from ebay for as little as $400 (on a good day). Most have the axle stubs and 1/3 of the shifter parts (Tranny linkage). PH wants $2500 for a Boxster tranny with warranty (no shifter). I think I will wait for the right opportunity to jump on cheap parts. I am a CSOB 914 owner I do need the Boxster tranny mounts to get started. The Audi mounts interfere with the Boxster shifter. Those are cheap online; About $30 each.
Anybody ever pulled the axle flange on a Boxster or Audi transaxle? No bolts but there is a circlip on the stub In the diff. Not exactly sure how to pull it. Slide hammer? Puller tool? Pry bar?
I did an ABA 16v in a teener last time and it was amazing even using the 914 tranny. I'm guessing the 012 will just put the bow on the package.
If it helps any, I share your ADD. I've got a 3.6l v8 that'll bolt up to that bellhouseing. Needs a clutch solution. You could have it for shipping 'cause the wife limits me to 3 engines in the shop at a time and I've got my eye on something "better".
...gotta poke the ADD...
Those 1.8T motors can make insane HP. For engine goodies/upgrades, might try Bahn Brenner in bend, Or. He has a corrado with a T motor that makes 480WHP.
John know his sh*t when it comes to water cooled VW/Audi. Sounds like an awesome build, wish I had the patience for a swap like that.
This one I'm going to have to stop by and see for myself!
It's downright scarey to be next to when he starts it up, sounds like nothing iv'e ever heard. rattles windows for 4 blocks .
1999 5 spd Boxster M/T in Roseville. $640
Got the flanges out. Just the the VW manual said to. The shaft looks just like the one I posted above. Seems like an easy swap to Boxster flange. Looks like no need to buy a compltete trans.
Been taking it slow on the conversion. Here's something...
I found a Boxster shifter and cables on ebay super cheap. The hard part to find is the linkage on the tranny. I found one at a local recycler way too expensive. So I ordered some 10mm balls ($4) and with some stuff on hand fabricated the stuff I needed. I had some heim joints and rod, all the bits you see.
Since this is an Audi tranny and not a true Boxster, the threaded boss on the case for the factory pivot is not drilled or tapped. I had to fab a new pivot point and re-align the geometry a little. I used the factory linkage mounting holes to build from and picked up a mount in the rear to carry the pivot point. The pivot I used is a ball bearing adjustable bell crank from a 6-71 blower; Very stout. 3/8 rod and 1/8 flat stock make up the rest. All parts went through a heat treatment with a dirty oil bath.
Here's the working prototype. I plan to move the Neutral gate cable more inboard to reduce the angle a little. This thing shifts super nice! I have 2-3mm of end play on the shifter. I used the Porsche design to inspire me since they did all the R&D for me. I can hardly wait to drive a 914 with a modern transaxle.
I designed the cable bracket to accept the factory locking design. Need to maching deeper and move the divots for the locking clips.
I used 0.75"/0.120" DOM to make the shift bracket. My ghetto hardening gives it a cool blue/black color, stiffens everything up real well.
Re-aligned cable angle
quick video... Linkage in action...
That shifter setup looks awesome!
Im going to be starting the teardown for my v6 swap in the next few months after some other projects are started.
Congrats on your progress!!
.....Super cool, project man.....I dig Audi powerplants!
Looking great Mike! Looks like you'll be pulling your drivetrain any day now
Got it finished and painted. Moved the cable inboard, the angle looks better. I plan to keep the (Audi Only) axle shield. But the cast aluminum Audi tranny mounts have been replaced with Boxster Steel units. This will give the mounts some symmetry over the Audi's.
Here you can see the notch needded to capture the factory locking clip.
Teaser photos... Rotary gets pulled this weekend. New turbo good for up to 350hp. Not sure which exhaust manifold to use. I need to get the engine in place to see where the turbo fits best...
Garrett GT28RS Disco Potato...
Methanol Injection... Coolingmist progressive controller gauge with vac/boost display, fail safe control, flow meter, AEM 200 psi pump, 600cc injector, hose, misc fittings. Not shown is the 2 gallon tank...
Ooooh, does that mean the K03 is available?
Mike, are you going to run the stock turbo/tune for the initial testing and then upgrade?
GT28r is a great turbo.. I wish I took you for a ride in the Audi prior to me blowing that turbo...
Turbo should fit fine, the 914 has more side to side room than most cars, I would go with a bottom mount turbo due to the exhaust and the firewall clearance (VS going with like the SPA manifold..). Not very many available though... I see one on ebay, but not sure how long it would last before it cracked... ( My APR one is bottom, but its made of Iconell, so it will never crack...).
Mark, what would you want with a lowly KO3? Planning to turbo your lawnmower?
The PCV system tends to crack and disintegrate, especially by the block. O34 has solutions to that.. Make sure you replace all the plastic bits there..
I would just go catch can... I run mine open because I hate the environment
Fenolic intake spacer. 034 says it can lower the manifold temp by 20F. can't hurt...
Oil sandwich to connect my external oil cooler. Now I need to flush out all the dino oil from the system...
Very very slick and trick..Good luck with your conversion!
I wish I was as talented
I've heard mixed reviews on the intake spacer.
430 CC's is a good match for that turbo. But you will be able to max out those injectors if you run enough boost.
Oil cooler is a good idea for this engine, the stock oil cooler tends to push the temps higher than desired on hot days.
Whats going to be the fate of the rotary? Seems like it could be downsized to be a more reliable power plant for a street car.
Pulled the drive train today. Kind of depressing since it still runs... Some of these parts have new owners
The Audi/Boxster tranny is almost the same length as the 901. Only about an inch or so longer. From the bell housing to axle center looks exactly the same. At least you can't "eye ball" any difference. I may have to move it forward for engine clearance. No more than an inch. Looks like fitting it in will be no problem compared to what I have done already. The biggest bonus will be the modern transaxle. get in line now if you want to test drive it later. This thing shifts... well, it shifts just like a Boxster. Night and day compared to a 901.
My ECU goes to 034 Motorsport next week. $850 to turn it into a 350hp ECU with no smog or un-needed junk. OUCH! But I get to keep the drive by wire. I may have to have them put it on the dyno to fine tune the flash once it's driveable.
Here's some side by side pics for those that want to see...
What have you decided for the axle solution?
BTW I see some emission stuff still on your new engine
sway away custom axles? So 914 outer cv and boxster inner cv?
Why did you switch to boxster stub axles then instead of just going with the audi units? (I assume since they are custom axles they can make it for any cv...)
What intercooler are you running Mike?
My guess is the air to water that he ran on the rotary.
350 with that turbo will take ~ 22psi. I had 330hp (255awhp) at 19psi and I ran ~ 96 octane, so with meth that should be about right. That turbo will take 25psi.. If it was ME, I would run 15psi on the street without meth, then have a scramble boost option on the boost controller hooked up to the meth and run like 22-23psi.. 275hp on the street with another 100hp at the push of a button/switch... Mmmmm Tasty
That would keep the turbo and rods nice and healthy
So the clearance looks pretty good? Not much hacking expected in the engine bay/trunk? Really cool build BTW.
I'd say you should get an EBC. You could always just have O34 tune the ECU to control the boost through the N75 valve and run a MBC to turn it down when you want. But you have enough money in it, I really think you should run an EBC... Better spool that way..
I have read about a couple guys blowing through the MAF without any problems. I am considering doing this and using a traditional BOV. wooosh! That way it doesn't go rich when it blows. They make a nice aluminum housing for the sensor instead of the stock plastic one. This engine will be set up more like a race engine than a commuter. Really all depends of what fits in the engine bay and how to plumb it.
Got the cradle fabbed up. still needs some bracing and finishing. Need to cut the straight bar in front of the axle stub and weld in a drop loop for clearance. Most is 0.75" DOM, 0.120 wall and some 5/8" DOM, 0.120 wall tubing For the lattice sections. It weighs a little over 20lbs so far. Super rigid, no flex. I squeezed the engine into the bay. I have a copper shim (3/8')between the oil pan and the cradle bar. This will be the clearance for the engine. Some ratchet straps in place to hep level and center until the mounts are added to the cradle. The front has a triangulated arch and the rear is dual arches. I decided to go solid mount, no bushings. I know it will be a little louder and transmit the vibrations more, but this is the way both my V8's were and my old drag race Bug so I'm used to it.
My new fuel pump showed up today. The Audi need 4 bar of pressure (65psi). This is the standard pressure for the motor. If anyone needs a good 45psi pump PM me, I'll let it go pretty cheap.
I also got a Howe Pedal and Wilwood master for the clutch. 034 Motorsport sells an adapter for the stock slave to accept a -3AN fitting. No need for a custom slave and the adapter was cheap. Now I have to decide if I want to replace the brake pedal and master. The brakes work great as is so I may just leave it for now and ad it to the honey do list after I get it on the road.
I got the ECU back from 034. Re-flashed to race car spec. No smog junk or un-needed stuff.
More updates tomorrow! 8am to 7pm toady. I'm beat!
One more just for fun...
Engine in the bay. I will have to make room in the rear trunk for the valve cover, exhaust and intake. I picked up a new aluminum intake manifold since the stocker won't work (angle problem) this one allows the TB to be installed in front of in back. I am mounting it in the back and it will also crowd the trunk a little...
Dude, we need to start a new club, the lightweight birdcage cradle club! It's looking nasty! I've got one more day of distraction with the 944 and I'm back to fab on mine.
Good on ya man!
What manifold did you use? The VW one for the transverse engines?
Engines are pretty low in vibrations so you should be OK, If you used the A/C it might be a bit shaky.
Where in the trunk do you have to make room?
Enjoying the progress!!
Today was spent, all day, fabricating mounts. I did something smart, I made mounting tabd on the cradle to pick up the tranny and motor mounts. That way If I swap engines, again, I can re-use the cradle and only fab new mounts. I also burned up almost all my DOM. Surprised I didn't run out of welding wire or gas... I'm sure glad I can fab myself, although it would be nicer if I had a shop and slowed down a little. I could not afford to pay someone to do this. This is one of those days where you would have to explain to the customer that it actually did take 10 hours to create mounts. Then try to get them to pay...
I used the axle stubs to measure for level. There are no level parts on the engine. Everything line up great...
here is the final system welded. Need some more grinding and finishing but it looks pretty good. For those that are counting, the cradle weighs exactly 24.6 lbs. The engine and tranny mounts a few pounds more...
That's it for now. We'll see what I get done this week after work... BTW, the new oil stains on the driveway anr from the nounts. I gave them a dirty oil bath after welding. Apparently I missed a weld and the filled up with oil, then they drained out...
Work of art, Mike
Man, that is slick.
This is a cool build. I really like the Audi engine. Its very smooth and fat low end torque. Are you going to use a cable shifter?
That's awesome! And your insight to make replaceable mounts is genius. An engine sub-frame is the only way to go. Keep up the great work.
Here she is in all her glory. Engine mounted to the cradle. Intake and exhaust mocked up. The cradle sure makes it east to maneuver around. The nuts on the under side of the exhaust manifold will be a challenge. So far I cannot get a wrench on the center one...
Enough work for today. I'm tired...
The cool thing about the OBX (don't laugh) intake manifold is the ability to swap the throttle body to the front or rear. Right now it's setup on the rear. My AEM methanol injector is on the front. The shitty thing about the OBX manifold was the fuel rail. The one that came with the manifold is polished and the -6AN fittings arn't right. They do not fit a -6AN fitting. Shitty Chinese manufacturing. I just happened to have another OBX rail and it worked with a little modification. Aeromotive 75psi regulator is hanging on the end. Not sure I will leave it there but we'll see...
Here is the oil cooler attachment and Crankcase evacuation fitting visible. I removed the factory water cooled oil cooler and will run my -12AN oil cooler lines to it. I had to add a 45 elbow and -10 to -12 adapters. The elbow it for clearance between the -12 fittings only.
That's really comming together. I love that you stuck with the stock 15 degree slant, it'll make things so much easier shortly down the road.
Mike, have you checked your height and clearance with the OBX manifold yet ?
Are you going to use any rubber or material between the cradle and body?
The cradle will hold and transfer alot of vibration to the body. I used stock 911 mounts at my four points of engine/ body mounting and it is very effective with the vibration. My engine lid will get excited for about 2 minutes when cold, but everthing is quiet beyond that.
Pretty much sums it up...
Rear firewall is being rebuilt. I curved it so it looks better and the seal will sit correctly. Basic hammer and anvil work. I might be able to put the factory latch back in too. Least of my worries. I welded dutchmen next to the plastic targa top holders. One of each mounting nuts got cut off int the process. Now I need to drill and tap.
I cut the bottom out of the trunk too. Just up to the cross member. I'm going to make a dropped removable panel. Dropped so I can fit the methanol tank and because there is 4-5" of space from the original trunk to the tranny. I may have to box in the exhaust a little. I tried 2 exhaust manifolds so far. I'm waiting on a third to arrive for mock up.
I "frenched" the coolant tank into the new firewall. The top is hammer rolled over a dolly. The placemant was coordinated with the intercooler... Next post
The intercooler was a challenge. I went back to the stock intake manifold and managed to wedge the intercooler into place. I have 1/4" clearance from the engine and from the side wall. I used a reducing 45 from the TB and a reducing 90 that is rotated 45 deg under the coolant tank. It all fits! This will plump to the turbo outlet with the bypass valve.
Still not exactly sure why you had to raise the firewall so much. Is it because of the exhaust?
Anyways, Lots of work done! Awesome stuff!
Plumbing, more plumbing... Got most of it licked! The pressure piping is red. I have a recirc valve plumbed into the turbo inlet. The recirc valve can also be a BOV but the ECU likes the missing air back. The cold air intake had to go in the fender. no room for the MAF, air cleaner and bends without hitting the turbo. I am leaving the hold in the side wall open to help draw air through the NACA. I built a inner fender liner out of aluminum to seal the chamber and keep road debris out...
I bought an 18" brake from HF and bent up an aluminum turbo shroud. Added a few knockouts for externals and done!
Here you can see some of the misc plumbing behind the engine... Intercooler, 2 heater lines, aluminum crank case vecuum, fuel supply... I dropped the floor 4" too...
OUTSTANDING! I love the intake box in the fender. May have to steal that idea. Twice (one for each fender) on mine
Mike, did you talkto 034 about doing mafless tune? the later ecu like you have can support it..
If they gave you a standard gt28rs file with 3" maf for an open exhaust I will bet you wont need to retune... The factory sensors will adjust from there. You know Im on a 2x larger turbo than my tune and I just have my boost cut in half. Roughly the same power but the same drivability as before... These modern ecu's are just awesome..
Here's a little teaser pic. I mounted the steering column in place. I cut apart a 914 column to get the mounting bracket and welded it in place of the Passat bracket. This column is about 1.5 inches longer at the U joint. I will have to cut and weld the diagonal shaft link and rework the geometry a little but it looks like it will not bind up. By doing this I accomplish a few things...
1) Cruise control
2) Intermittent wipers
3) Functioning immobilizer circuit
4) key that will crank the starter (I had a push button)
5) Tilt and telescoping wheel
I have been spending the last couple weeks knitting the electrical system together. I got to hand it to the Germans! Many of the 914 wire colors match the Passat wiring. It looks like they have stuck to their wiring standards after all these years.
The exterior light wires match perfectly. This allows for the use of the Passat flasher and hazard relay and switches. The switch contacts match too. Super easy!
The cruise control is built into the ECU and pre-wired to the column.
The windshield wiper/washer circuit is just as easy. Now I need to source a water bottle and pump.
Everything else is a connection from the ECU to the dash cluster. I'm running multi-conductor cable for this. The old ignition switch wiring matches (mostly) to the new one and the wires to the engine bay will be reused.
I'm not saying this is/has been easy but it is doable if you take your time and take a lot of notes. On top of that I have photoshoped the schematic into a color drawing. I also have a large color plotter at work to blow up the diagrams.
Shown here without the air bag (just in the way) and with only the top trim in place. Note the dual gauge pod on top of the column...
Here is one of my diagrams...
You make me
But with envy! Mad skills my man . That will be one custom teener that will be the envy of many I'm thinkin. Can't wait to see it at WCR
Progress... Since the world didn't end...
Grafted in the headlight switch and hazard switch/relay. I am building it into some aluminum diamond plate. Once complete, it will get painted black to match the other diamond plate in the cabin. I have eliminated the 914: headlight switch, hazard switch, flasher relay, fog light switch, Hi/Lo relay and all associated wiring... I still need to install the dimmer rheostat. I ordered 2 different Passat types to see which one looks best.
The Passat stuff eliminates some of the 914 complexity in the wiring. Since I'm on a roll, I will finish the wiring before any more major fab. It also helps since it's raining and welding in a closed garage sucks!
I scored a broken Passat fuel sender to check the resistance range. 300 Ohms full and 40 ohms empty. I need to find a sender to fit or have the old one modified.
Here is a pic. I'm using a clamp to hold in place for now. There is no going back without swapping the entire dash...
The switch rotates to turn the headlights on and pulls out (2 notches) for front and rear fogs. It also pushes in while off, not sure what that does yet. I am missing some pins on the harness plugs (Euro Version), so I ordered another pigtail to get parts...
That's so sweet! I hope to be able to try something like this soon.
Have you thought about climate controls? Where to mount heater core, a/c evaporator etc. Are you even going to have them?
Does this look intimidating??? I started wiring the cluster, wipers, ODB II connector and misc. All but 5 or 6 (going to removed systems) of these need to get connected. On top of this, I have the boost controller and meth injection system yet to wire, about 15 more wires. Maybe a few other mics things too...
I'm not sure yet how the system will react to the missing ABS, Climate control, Security and Air Bag systems. My hope is since it has been without power for months, any volatile memory will reset. The Data link to the missing systems will not be connected and hopefully everything will work.
You can see in the pic all the white tags I put on the wires. I have all identified except a yellow/white that connects to "thirteenfold relay position". I have to reverse engineer this connection to see what it does. All I know now is that it comes from the cluster.
Anyone on the site own a VAG-COM device? I may need to connect to the ODB and scan systems once it's running.
Dont use an OBD scanner use a VAG-COM scanner. Its like an OBD scanner that you can read and monitor every electrical signal... The ECU shouldnt miss anything except maybe the climate control... You might want to have that plugged in and just sitting somewhere, I mentioned to you earlier that you can monitor some settings via this (at least in the Audi you can..). But its an intuitive system so Its the only one that scares me that you say your going to not have in place.
Mike, this car is going to be awesome when you finish! One circuit at a time.
Thanks everyone for the help and encouragement. It really helps keep me motivated!
This is a weekend project and I still think I can make my deadline of WCR 2013...
My extended family is coming over today for dinner, so not much will happen on the car.
Install new pedals
Remove motor, finish welding
Install fuel pump
Sort out the axles
Mount shifter/route cables
Fabricate new parking brake handle
Modify dash for cluster
Finish rear trunk floor
Anything I forgot
Drive the shit out of it...
I bit the bullet and picked up a VAG COM today. I chose the HEX-USB+CAN as it has every feature available. I need to program new chipped keys anyway. Plus it can do all the ODB II stuff plus more...
Since your DBW you can also modify your ECU tune. But thats some custom software that I really dont know much about. I know its free though.
Oh, and there's a T in sasquaTch. :behind couch: Rokin yur pown spelling!
Epic build bro, cant wait to see it in person and bring you a beer.
I like the progress!!
Progress continues even without updates. The wiring has taken longer since I'm adding connectors and soldering connections...
Got the cluster figured out. i was going to build a custom fiberglass dash but decided to go another route.
I first broke off the factory clear lens on the cluster and cut the black surround down. I had a piece of acrylic cut to the outer shape of the 914 cluster. The Passat dash is slightly narrower but slightly taller. I used an epoxy designed to bond the ABS to the acrylic. I then painted the acrylic satin black around the edge...
I think it looks pretty good and I get to keep the stock 914 dash shape...
Yeah Buddy Lookin sweet! Going to be a trip seeing that all going in your 914. A nice updated cluster & steering wheel controls. Good to see you making progress. Can't wait to see it at WCR
Like the gauge cluster idea
I'm getting burned out on wiring...
Today I switched to steering. I had to shorted the under dash steering rod by 2.5 inches. So I cut it in half, connected everything and marked it. I then cut off the excess. I don;t want this weld to fail so I did it more like a structural weld. Note the chamfers on each section. I used an angle aluminum piece in the vice and over clamped it so the heat would not pull the rod. It was welded, ground and spun... Over and over. It is not warped or bent at all. A quick coat of satin black finished it off.
I did discover the VW clock spring does 7 complete revolutions. I never looked to see what the 914 does lock to lock but I hope 7 is OK.
Kind of a boring update but if it don't steer, it don't drive...
Looks great! Even if it was warped a hair, its just a steering rack...
Mike...your gauge cluster....awesome man! The gauges look factory that way!
Hey Mike, Your doing a great job keep up the great work. John
Well, my car
has had 930 steel flares. The right rear was hammered and rolled with a baseball bat at some point. The worse part was the execution. Since the car was once a race car, the PO or PPO did not car how it got installed. They just needed to cover the tires.
They don't look too bad from the outside...
Here you can see 3 layers of sheet metal.
Here you can see 1/2" of bondo. White painted fender makes it look thicker.
I picked up a full set from AIR and 914 LTD. I also picked up some black fender welting. right now I just have them screwed on. I have wide rivets for later down the road. I was bidding on Brad's set (including rockers), lost the bid, bought a set from AIR and then Brad sent me a second chance offer. Now I have 2 complete sets. I already had flared steel rockers but realized the length of each was not consistent. Looks like the PO installed the old flares and built the rockers to fit. All of the old flares were off set different from the opposite side; Asymmetrical. The worst was the front right which was set back a full inch from the left.
So... I installed the new rockers first and installed the flares to meet. The jack post hole was the original alignment point. The ones I chose to install are from 914 LTD. The quality of both were good. The fit was almost the same. The 914 LTD flares were slightly thicker than the AIR's. I did notice that the gel coating on Brad's is cracking. I will deal with this someday when I paint the car.
If anyone needs a set of 4 fiberglass flares PM me. I will sell them for cost. I also have some free steel flared rockers if anyone wants them.
Looks great! Crazy work on those original flares!
That was a good idea on the dash set up, Mike.
That should help some Not sure if thats really enough flow over the intercooler though. Something youll find out when you log your Intake Air Temps after you get the setup up and running.
Is that the air to air intercooler or is it for the air to water intercooler?
Ah, that should work great then.
I've been creating a custom pedal cluster for the 914. I needed a hydraulic clutch and I wanted to keep the stock-ish brake master cylinder. I run a bigger master to push on the 930 calipers. The brakes work great so I did not want to mess with them.
I used Howe pedals but everything else is custom. The clutch cylinder is from Wilwood. This was the second attempt. The first one set the pedals back too far. In the original design, I used the Howe pivot brackets. In order to make it work with the brake master in the factory position, I needed to lower the elevation of the rod. The howe rod pivot point was 3/4" too high. This would have made an extreme angle for the rod into the master. I came up with an articulating rail system for the stock rod. I also needed to offset the rod to the right of the pedal.
You can see all the mechanics of it here and in motion in the video. I added a second pivot to carry the side load created by the offset. After fabrication, I hardened all the parts and shot it with a coat of satin black. The new cluster will weld to the factory cluster floor bracket and bolt to the floor so it can be removed as an assembly.
I did have to cut a hole into the fuel tank cavity for part of the clutch master to fit into the space. The fluid hose will be placed in the cabin with grommets to the reservoir in under the hood.
I tested the pedal torque by placing a C clamp in front of the sliding rail. Clamp was tight and the pedal was able to pop the clamp right off the assembly. I can't tell you the exact torque, I was more concerned with binding or breakage of the system. It appears the brakes should work fine with this setup.
You will see a couple of switches. One for the brakes and one (micro, spring, limit switch) for the clutch for cruise control deactivation.
Wow thats a lot of bits on that brake lever... Looks extremely smooth but a bit complicated.
That's awesome Mike.
Looks like things are coming together nicely, can't wait to see it finished.......finished I crack myself up sometimes.
Your the man Mike, looking great!
I like your "modular" concept. Keep up the good work!
Just noticed that you are going to use VW column controls !! Great I've had 2005 VW controls for a while , got the ideas of getting the updated wiper function of the little wheel on the stalk to do intermitten , also on the signal side the dimmer switch thing . Also got a wiper motor to match , which appears to have the same bolt pattern as 914 wiper rack along with the propper relay to operate . It'll be great to see what you come up with , as well as the reat of the mods !!! Thanks for this thread , it does give hope of alternatives to the base VW systems of the 70s.
Pedal cluster is in, sort of. I did not do the final welding yet. (in case I need to take it out) I had to compromise on the throttle pedal location. The perfect mounting alignment position would require the removal of the steering shaft. But then I couldn't turn. Ideally it would be a little higher but I don't want to raise the fresh air box area. But it seems OK when I sit in the seat and make engine noises... VROOM!... I got the clutch master bench bled and plumbed to the rear. Right now I just have a -3AN plug in the back since the motor has to come out still for final bolt tightening and minor chassis welding.
I also picked up a FireCharger AFFF fire system. Pretty cool and it allows me to re-charge it at will. I still need to plumb it to the engine bay and rig the pull handle, so for now I just have the location of the bottle mocked up.
I picked up a short shifter for the boxster assembly. The Boxster shift knob is a press on fit to a flat bar. So.. I cut the Lever off, drilled, tapped and installed a Mustang lever. I topped it off with a Hurst style knob with the proper 5-spd pattern embossed on top. You can see the wire frame/fiberglass console I made to snap over the shifter assembly. I cut a gauge hole in it for a future something. Maybe a vintage VW clock...
Please excuse the wiring hanging. I will dress it up once I'm sure all the wiring is complete.
Here you can see a teaser shot of my Rat Rod 1936 Buick parking brake setup. It's modified (like everything else) to work with my hydraulic parking system.
Nice pedal cluster, Mike.
That sub in the passenger footwell looks sweet
I had a bit of bad luck today, although I solved it too.
I was drilling for some rivets to hold down the aluminum diamond plate tunnel cover. The fourth one I drilled I sment gas.
I had to cut the tunnel open to get to the hard line. Yep... Hole through and through. Since the fuel system is already complete and I didn't fell like re-plumbing, I got a compression coupler from HD supply and fixed it. The aluminum hard lines use -6AN compression fittings anyway. They are designed for a brass ferrule, so I figured the brass compression fitting will be fine. It was a pain cutting the tunnel open with my air saw. No sparks!
There is a small boxed section on the passenger side next to the shifter. When I ran the hard lines, one of them made it into this small cavity. It is just big enough for the 3/8" line to fit through.
Good thing I picked up some .023 wire last week. This made rewelding the thin sheet metal easier. All fixed!
I then switched to plumbing the fire system. Might come in handy some day...
Lesson of the day... Know where your fuel lines are!
It's a 944 seat belt setup.
I pulled the motor today in order to finish some odds and ends. Just about every peripheral component needed to be tightened down. I had to make custom 12mm wrenches to get the exhaust bolted on. There isn't much space and a conventional box wrench would not work. I have about a dozen custom tools fabbed up for the series of engine swaps.
The methanol injector was mounted to the outlet of the intercooler. This is a 330cc injector good for 350hp @ 7500 rpm. Right in my range. Notice the tip is recessed. In theory, this allows the spray to form a "cone" before the air flow (passing by) cuts into the stream. By doing this it promotes better atomization. There is some debate on other forums about installing the injector within the intercooler. The argument revolves around pooling inside the cooler. In my case, I am running a solenoid before the injector to prevent dribble thus avoiding pooling. In addition, the injector will not open below 10psi and/or an analog signal from the MAF.
The Audi/VW motors suffer from sludge build up in the PCV system. There was even some law suit over it. I decided to mitigate problems by using a crankcase evacuation system. 034 Motorsport hooked me up with a machined aluminum fitting that plugs into the system. I added some 5/8" aluminum hard line and brass compression fittings. This is the main line that heads to a custom built 1 gallon catch can. From the catch can the line continues to the vacuum venturi welded to the exhaust. This type of system is usually found on V8 drag cars. As the exhaust flows past the venturi a vacuum is pulled on the system- on the engine crank case. It was originally designed to help seal rings on high HP engines. So I get the best of both worlds. Reduced sludge and better sealing combustion chambers.
Here is a pic of the turbo oil drain. I used the lower original oil drain and some high temp hose with an -10AN fitting. After cutting the factory stainless hard line, I rolled a bead on it to keep the hose in place. I finally got to use my mini bead roller!
As I mentioned before, an AFFF fire system has been installed. This system is approved by many racing sanctioning bodies. This system from FireCharger is also refillable by me at any time. I runs off a compressed CO2 cylinder. You just need a refill kit and water. Very easy! I am more concerned with putting out a fire than weather or not the car will pass tech. I still keep fire extinguishers in the car any way.
The bottle and CO2 housing are mounted on the front tunnel. I mounted the handle on my shifter console. The nozzle tubing is routed on top of the tunnel, up the firewall and pops out into the engine bay at the top. The two nozzles are mounted slightly to the left of center. One over the fuel rail and one over the intake manifold. I painted the top of the tips red so they don't blend in to the rest of the stuff back there.
Your skills just blow me away. I like the way you have laid stuff out and look forward to seeing this car back on the road. Great work Mike.
I will have a fire suppression system in my Six just because. I also think a nice small handy fire extinguisher is worth having in the car too. Probably mount one of those at the front of the passenger seat.
Awesome! I'm not trying to be mother hen but it's always on my mind, I'm a firefighter and have had some terrible experiences with car accidents involving fires...
Gotta use the 944 pieces. The 944 latch is either shorter or the same length as the 914 piece.
Here is a pic of the seat belt buckles. Left 944, Right 914.
The 914 buckle I have absolutely does latch into the 944 receiver. Looks like it wouldn't but it does. I'm not sure I would trust it in an accident. Thats why I changed both parts.
Thanks for the quick response......Guess I'll just leave mine as-is.
Those seat belts look the same as a set of aftermarket belts I got off of EBAY a few years ago. Even have the same #0701 on the buckle. The female end of the buckle has a long shaft and is high enough to be used with my Scheel seats.
Got the motor almost ready to go back in. I pulled almost every nut and bolt added some red, blue or green Locktite (depending on the application).
Turbo oil lines done
Turbo coolant lines done
Exhaust manifolds tight
Coolant lines done
Vacuum lines done
I also cleaned to oil (from the rotary) from the engine bay and resprayed the white. I used the "Awesome cleaner" from the dollar store. Thanks Lennie! Stuff works great. At one point with the rotary, I was racing a Carrera on the freeway. Under boost the oil filler neck popped off. A fine mist of oil was sprayed all over the car. The worst part was the top was off and I got covered. BTW, I won...
Here a few pics while I watch paint dry...
Hell hole looks pretty good.
I forgot about all the weird chassis stuff thats been done to this car..
Spent some time cleaning and painting the rear trunk. I'm off tomorrow and Tuesday so I plan on getting the motor stuffed back in and commence final assembly. Paint in the engine bay has sat for 2 weeks so hopefully I don't screw it up. I'll have to be careful in the trunk.
I have a few cover plates for the trunk that still need paint. The engine side and over the exhaust are removeable.
Paint looks great! What are you you spraying and with what?
As always, very impressive Mike, I wish I had half your fabrication skills
More, More, More...
Radiator coolant lines: DONE
Heater lines: DONE
Intercooler lines: DONE
Intercooler pump: DONE
Oil lines: DONE
Oil pressure line: DONE
Intake piping: DONE
Recirc valve: DONE (Forge DV/BOV in DV mode only)
Turbo inlet: DONE
Aire cleaner: DONE
Fuel lines: DONE
PCV evacuation system: DONE
fuel pump install
catch can drain
vacuum lines connected
boost control connected
Dash cluster install
Rear sway bar install
Fluids: motor oil, tranny oil, coolant
Axle measurement t, order and install
Clutch final bleeding
I can't believe how much stuff was bolted to this system. I waited until final assembly to plumb all the fluid lines. What a bitch. The area on the left side of the engine bay is very contested with hoses (heater, intercooler, heat exchanger, pump, oil, oil pressure).
I had one of those senior moments today. I lost my throttle body. When I took it off, I put it somewhere safe. It took me an hour to fine it...
Dude this is just killer!!!
Im confused on your overflow tank. Why is there 2 lines going to it?
Didnt notice the Audi colored expansion tank in the pic!
Thats really cool! You integrated that into the VW dash?
I started putting the wire harness in today and finishing some final connections. It took a while to get my head back into the wiring system. Lucky for me I labeled everything. Getting very close to cranking this thing over. I can hardly wait.
Mounted in removable bulkhead...
In the car...
Here is my cool wide band to narrow band O2 converter (Left). It takes a linear 0-5v signal and converts it to a linear 0-1v signal. So I can feed the ECU with a scaled wide band signal, in stead of the crappy narrow band signal. The switch (center) will allow me to switch back and forth if I have any driveability or code issues.
Here is the flow meter and filter for the methanol system...
I cleaned up my Bilstein's too. Looks like I need a ~21" axle on the left and a ~22" axle on the right. I found a good source for axles from an off road VW place. It's going to cost around $200 for a pair. Pretty good pricing. I plan to clean up and reuse my 28 spline, 911 CV joints.
Link to axles? Thats awesome!
You, sir, are mad.
And we are all that much better for it.
Fire that beast up and post up some vids!
Congrats on an awesome project.
I picked up one of these LSD units. Supposed to be a cheap alternative to the $2700 LSD for the Boxster.
The testimonials look great. We will see how it works very soon.
Whats the price of these?
Thats pretty killer right there! This is gearbox specific correct? This would simply be awesome in conjunction with that powertrain. But I bet it'll get quick sideways on you quite quickly! Cant wait to hear the feedback.
Finishing off stuff here and there.
I added a momentary toggle switch to allow cranking the engine from the trunk...
If anyone ever wondered about the Renegade Hybrids "500hp axle" kit is... It's a VW Type 2 axle with 33 spline CV's. Not sure if the CV's are T2 or 944... You can see the "VW 2" logo stamped into the end.
New axles are on the way from SoCal. Final measurements are 20.25" and 21.375".
I popped out the diff today to get ready for the Phantom Grip LSD. I was surprised how easy it was to get out. I took some measurements of the diff parts so you guys can compare to the 901 diff. I will as-built the LSD part when it arrives. This transaxle is an Audi 012, 5 speed. The spider gears are already machined flat, so I do not have to take it to a machine shop. The LSD pushes against both spiders equally to act like a clutch type LSD. If the spiders are not flat and true, the LSD will not work correctly. The other nice thing about this system; you don't have to reset any back lash since the 3 member and bearings are not really messed with.
27mm between the flat surfaces of the drive gears
Trivial question (compared to the great work you've done ) what label maker did you use for your labels in orange?
I got the Phantom Grip(PG) installed today. I did have to machine the drive gears and the spider gears for clearance. I drove to several machine and gear grinding shops today. None of them could do the job. No way to chuck them up in the machine. So I did it myself. I built a drill rig from a bolt and some washers. The drive gear has a recess on the face for the stub axle circlip. I chucked up the gear in my drill and while spinning at low speed, ground it on my bench grinder. I took my time and kept eye with a caliper and straight edge. It turned out better than I expected. Looks like a flat machine finish. I also had to clearance the PG axle hole a little. Since I machined the drive gear, the stub axle sticks through a little further. I opened the hole in the PG to allow the stub to slide in without binding. Normally the end of the stub would be in the empty center void.
2mm off the drive gears
1mm of the spiders
1mm clearance inside the PG
Light tapping into the 3rd member and done. Overall the quality of the PG seems good. The theory looks sound and the fit is snug. If I take the springs out, the system turns freely, no binding.
I took some measurements in case somebody wants to try to fit this into a 901
Fully collapsed springs in my vise
Most of the area machined has no impact on function. Only a tiny bit of the contact surface was machined, verified by the wear marks.
Installed. You can see the springs within the unit. These push on the drive gears to limit independant movement. It is very tight and cannot be rotated by hand. Once installed and wheels on, I will try to spin one wheel and see how much give the system has.
Looking into the drive gear splines. In the above picture of the gear you can see the recess for the circlip. I clearanced the PG so even the clip could go through. The stub stops on the top edge of this view. It has a shoulder the prevents the stub from going too far into the diff.
What prevents the unit from falling out except tension?
Electrician, my ass. Wizard is much more appropriate.
Awesome stuff, even if I got lost once you got into that diff stuff
Thanks for taking the time to photo and post progress; like everyone else, looking forward to seeing her run
Got the axles installed. These are Empi with 3" splines, no inner clip. Designed for the CV to slide in/out with travel. I cleaned and repacked the CV's and tie wired up the new 914rubber bolts. I had to re-do the exhaust again. I found the run from the turbo to the muffler interferes with the axle. I borrowed a 4"- 22° pipe from work and fixed it.
I finally powered up the car. VagCom found no communication to the ECU. When I troubleshooted, I found the main relay not powering up the ECU. Looks like some more investigation in store tomorrow...
Those gages look kick ass all lit up
Can't wait to hear the video of it running. Way to go man
looking good Mike!
Liking the gauges, glad I pulled the gauge cluster from my suby donor, might have to use it.
You're truly an inspiration for all!
It started today! I had to shut it down due to a fuel leak
The earlier wiring problem was a missing ground on the main relay. Easy fix.
The fuel leak was a bitch, in a bad location. I had to take the rear trunk panel off to get to it. Meth system and ECU had to come out. I'm guessing it will be driveable in about 2 weeks.
I still have to bleed the clutch, mount reservoir, swap out fuel pumps, tie up wiring, install seats and carpet, add coolant. Oh, reinstall the meth system and ECU...
I'm sure there are some other minor things to do as well.
Wish I could say I am two weeks out... This car is going to be awesome! Probably the best all around transplant that I've seen. Good MPG (when you want it), tremendous power when you take weight into consideration and fairly cheap parts... Can't wait to see it going!
Ok it runs! Drive by wire throttle works. All fuel leaks sealed. I blew an injector seal on the rail. I discovered my fuel pressure regulator don't work. Well it does work if I want the fuel pressure at 120psi but that is it. No matter how far I turn out the adjustment screw it stays at 120psi. The good news is the fuel system is holding at 120 but the ECU wants 60psi. Raw gas was coming out the exhaust... But it does rev up with the pedal and it starts right away!
My regulator is an Aeromotive and is supposed to be 85psi max. I double checked the instructions too. I even tried blowing air through it. My 125psi compressor could barely get air to come out. If I blow air the wrong way through it just chatters.
Here is a quick video...
That is Awesome.
You've got to be a happy guy today, looks like you'll be driving it in no time
stunning just stunning...
It runs. 90% of the wires are tied up. Clutch is bled. New rear springs are in. All fluids in. Seats back in.
Time to drive this bitch!
There are some minor things to finish but I plan on going on a test drive in the morning. If I get real lucky, I will drive it to the Parts Heaven swap meet. One year ago I had the car there with a turbo rotary. Looks like I made me deadline of WCR 13. Too bad I can't go...
We need video's asap!
Gonna take it to 034 for tuning?
No video yet. But here are some pics of it off jack stands!
So there was a glitch. The Audi water pump is not up to the task of circulating water up to the front. System was running hot in the back and cool in the front. I even heard the turbo line boiling. Lucky for me I had a Miziere pump in the garage. I mounted up front and what a difference! It runs very good. Idles perfectly. No fuel stink. Basically like an Audi with a 4" exhaust. The turbo spools very fast and at low rpm. Like 1st gear taking off from a stop sign. I have to go east and shift to second to keep it out of boost. The final drive gearing is a little low. It drives like a close ratio box. 5th gear on the freeway is a blast. Turbo kicks in and "off it goes"...
I still need to fab a mounting bracket for the pump and do a few misc things but I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. I also need to relocate the accelerator pedal. I need to clock the pedal 90° and lift the electronics to a more comfortable position.
I bought some 220lb springs from Warren to put in the rear. Wow! what a difference. The progressives I had were way to soft for the Bilstein front setup.
No this one.
Here's a run down of some of the electrical stuff and first shakedown run. I have 60 miles on it now.
I tried the wipers by accident. They work. I grafted the Passat wiper switch and relay to the 914 motor. I now have programmable delay wipers. All I did was match up the numerical connection point and got lucky!
I have to re-flash the ECU to activate cruise control.
Turn signals and hazards work too. I did order some german dual filament lamps with the correct contacts unlike the standard 1157 lamp.
I may have to reconnect the ABS module in order to flash it out of the system. I kept it but I need to find it. This is the only CEL the car shows.
My fuel sender controller (Spyida.com) is not working so one of the projects is to graft the Passat sender on to a compatible mount on the tank. The Passat is a 250 ohm Full and 10 ohm empty. The closest I have is a Chrysler 30 ohm full and 240 ohm empty. I flipped the guts but It doesn't read quite right. The instrument cluster only wants a basic potentiometer.
I ordered a 3 minute "on delay" timer to control the Intercooler pump, Intercooler fan and water pump. Right now the start every time the key is turned on. I'm going to use the fuel pump output as the trigger. That way it will only start if the fuel pump is running.
Headlight work as they should with no issues. I have not tried the fogs yet. Not sure why, just haven't gotten to it.
I decided not to run the factory BOV solenoid so I picked up some 330 ohm, 20W heat sink resistors. These trick the ECU to think the solenoid is connected and prevent driveability issues. If I needed to have the car inspected, I could use these resistors to fake the readiness of the EVAP and SAI systems too.
The boost controller seems to work but there is a screw in brass vent screen on the solenoid making noise. This is normal but irritating so I may relocate/extend it into the trunk. Boost is set at 10psi for now.
I still have to do final calibrations to the methanol system and some testing before I turn the boost up.
This engine has much less power (right now) than the rotary but is way more driveable. As the engine gets tuned and all systems dialed in, I will do a dyno run to see what it's doing. The Motronic 7.5 system is great. It's real nice sitting at a red light and not smelling unburnt gas. If I keep my foot out of it, it runs like a stock Audi. The exhaust is very quiet at idle and has a nice throaty sound under acceleration.
Great work Mike! Can't wait for the video!
On mine I cut the plastic arm very short on the accelerator pedal unit and mounted it on the front wall above/behind the pedal cluster. Using the stock pedal and heim joint arrangement to translate the signal to the shortened arm. All my pedals line up as stock. Nice work!
Car looks great Mike! You have rebuilt your car twice and I have yet to finish. Wanna make a trip out here?
What's even more interesting is if you look at our shifters... We both posted within a couple weeks and have similar looking set-ups. That was quite funny really!
Great minds think alike I hear!
Quick video, my cameraman (son) pressed stop too early...
Here is a walk around...
Awesome! Sounds really good. You've got amazing skills. Check out the HUGE exhaust!
Sounds eerily familiar!
Adjustable delay on timer. Triggered by the fuel pump relay. This timer is adjustable from 0-10 minutes. Just a turn of the dial. It is running: Water pump, Intercooler pump, intercooler fan. I have it set to 2 minutes right now. this prevents the fore mentioned equipment from starting as soon as the key is turned on...
The gearing is definitely short. I'm running smaller diameter tires and the trans was designed to pull a 3800lb wagon, not a 2100lb 914. COmbine that with a 4" exhaust (read: no back pressure) and the turbo spools very quickly. 1st gear is almost no fun. 2nd gear is just a hair tall to be used as first. My rear tires are 26" tall, I may need to go with a 28" and larger wheel or swap the ring and pinion to match the weight of the car.
I clocked and relocated the throttle pedal today. Much better and more comfortable position.
I need to lube up my diverter valve. I opened it and cleaned it during construction, but forgot to lube. The result is that sometimes during shifts, the pressure does not blow off and the engine revs up rather than down.
Pretty cool timer!
The Audi box has plenty of gears and such available. You might look at some 2.8 parts or even some TDI parts. I've got an audi box excel sheet somewhere with all the options, I'll post it when I find it.
Well I've been playing with my boost controller. What a PITA! You would think that just following the instructions, perfectly! would yield the desired result... NO!
Started the install just like the diagram on the left. Connected exactly as pictured. The boost would peak at 12psi max. I then replaced all my vacuum lines. Same result. I double checked the entire system for leaks. None found.
I then added a vacuum line as described on the bottom left notes. Max boost... bla, bla... Connect a line from the manifold to the wastegate can... Took it for a test drive and it immediately peaks to 30psi. No ramp up, just straight to 30psi and is virtually undriveable. In addition I broke down on the freeway (my testing ground). At 30psi the cap on the power brake fitting blew off and the car stalled. It took a few minutes to get it started, I then found the massive vac leak. I quickly wrapped the fitting in electrical tape and limped home.
Frustrated, I removed all the vac lines and drove without a connection to the wastegate. It again peaked at 30psi but was a smoother ramp, yet still quick.
Almost at my wits end, I swapped the #1 & #2 connections on the boost solenoid. NOTE: this should not work. It's now backwards. Well, it runs better than ever. Nice boost ramp to 20+psi. Drives perfectly! I'm not sure what's going on with my boost solenoid. Either there is a typo in the instructions or I was supplied with a N.C. when I should have got an N.O. device (or vise versa).
Either way, Holy shit!!!! This 914 hauls ass!!!!!
Way faster than my V8 and very close to the rotary but with more torque! So it feels like more power...
Now I need to get the axle and new tranny settled before I break something. The V6 Passat has the same gear ratio (almost) as the Boxster. The difference is .001 ratio per gear. The price difference between them is incredible. Used Passat tranny is ~$400. Used Boxster tranny is ~$1800. These are almost the same tranny, both made by Audi. Both final drives are 3.70. My 1.8 tranny final drive is 4.11, should make all the difference...
I also added some hood pins. My original latch was removed to clear the intake manifold and now won't fit. I drilled and tapped the roll bar and then welded a nut in place. This way I can adjust the height.
I also received my 5 year award from the PCA. Overall I have been a member longer but took a hiatus for a while...
20psi should be right about 330hp.
I know how fast my A4 was and how responsive it was with that turbo so ya... Excited for you
I ran 19psi for quite a long time. You might want to dial the boost down at lower RPM so its not to much torque for your drivetrain or your rods (weak link). I havent heard this turbo blowing a rod before, but you are running less weight so who knows how that effects it in the real world.
Get it dailed in, Get 034 to build a 100 octane file for you that will let you run it to 24psi (max safe level for the turbo). With a good tune that should be 375hp+. You can have the ECU hold both the files and you can switch it with the cruise stalk or a button. That should put you sideways in third . But cruise it daily at 15-17psi is a safe and healthy number.
I'm running methanol above 18psi, effectively raising the octaine level above 100 in the high boost range (18-30psi). I added root beer fragrance to the meth. It's kind of cool smelling root beer every time I get on it on the freeway.
It's not boosting to high at low rpm now. Other than the 4.11 gearing, it's perfect. I can feel the LSD working as the turbo spools up. What an amazing ride!
As I await my Boxster/Cayman 6 speed to arrive, I decided to take the car out for a spin... Once up to temp and at speed, smoke filled the cabin and trailed behind the car... Oil pressure good, so I limped it home... Doesn't smell like motor oil, smells more like gear oil...
Pulled up in the driveway looking like a Cheech and Chong movie. Opened the engine lid and the smoke is coming from the power steering pump...
I had to install the pump because it drives the water pump. Before installation, I removed the veins that create pressure, capped the fittings and filled it with PS fluid. I have 300 miles on the car without any issue with the pump. Not sure what the exact problem is. Inside it is now just a spinning flywheel submersed in fluid.
After the car cools down I am going to remove it completely. I think it will be OK since I'm now running an inline electric water pump. We shall see...
Does it ever end?
This is such a kick ass project.
You really have kept after it...
Looks like it worked. I put on a shorter serpentine belt and bypassed the PS pump and water pump. Took a 30 mile road trip with no issues to report. Electric water pump is working just fine...
The bearings in the power steering pump are shot. I gained at least 1.5hp by disconnecting it.
Nice. Wish I could get a ride in it while I am down here. Where the hell do you live again
I got a surprise visit today from Mike, out on a shakedown run. It was cool to share and compare setups. The sasquatch is quite a build. I was really impressed with how well the dash turned out. The engine fits in there surprisingly well and all the systems are neat and tidy. Performance was, of course, fantastic - including the handling of the chassis. Mike, you got a really well set up car there. Looking forward to seeing it again when the tune is finalized.
Thanks for dropping by!
And then this happened...
I changed out the water temp sender today. Yes, little coolant came out. 1-2 cups of fluid escaped. I decided to take it on a test drive. No, I did not top it off. I made it 7 miles when the radiator hose let go with a violent bang! Steam spewed from my GT style engine lid and coolant was everywhere. The moment the check engine light came on I was turning off the ignition...
Towed it home (See trailer thread) and parked it.
Lesson learned. Always pull the air out of the system.
Damn!!! Hopefully its an easy fix!
Ugh....so that happened just because there was too much air in the cooling system? Good to know....
My new transmission showed up today! I'm going to clean it up and paint the crusty bits. This is a 2005 Boxster S unit. Other than being ugly, It seems in good shape and I can shift all 6 forward and reverse gears. Everything spins
Same Bell housing as my Audi...
The 130mm flanges, (Only on the S transmission) work with my 930 CV's but they require 6 bolts...
I'm old and lazy so I decided to install a SPAL power window kit. I used to install these regularly and the design hasn't changed. I did have to offset the motor slightly to clear the regulator. Once the panel is in you will never see it. It was always a PITA to use the handle since the roll bar arm bracket is in the way.
So I also decided to do proper door grommets. These are the rear hatch grommets from the donor 2001 Passat Wagon.
I'm doing power windows too Mike! Good call. I ordered door panels and vinyl from 914rubber a while back and asked Mark NOT to cut a hole for the window winder. Can't wait to get them in. How do the SPAL's work? Pretty well?
I pulled my 5 speed today. It came out pretty easy without the engine and cradle. I also pulled the Phantom Grip LSD and planted it int the 6 speed. The spider gears are a direct swap, although the 3rd member is bigger in the 6 speed. The whole tranny is a little bigger. I do have to fab rear mounts but that's no big deal.
The bad news: The Boxster tranny does not have the electric speedo drive. I need to rig/fab something to work.
Here is a look at the bell housing area. 5 on left, 6 on right. Notice the 6 has more clearance for a bigger flywheel. Bolt pattern is almost identical. The Audi engine does not use all the bolt holes on the 5 speed. But all the hole I need match up on the 6 speed. BTW, this is a GETRAG Audi 466 transmission.
Here are the 2 diffs. 5 on left, 6 on right. The 6 is clearly bigger. I was surprised to see the spiders were interchangeable. So no new machining required.
The PG LSD shows minimal wear. You can see wear marks but you can't feel them.
I muscled the tranny into position today. What a PITA! It is longer than the 5 speed and it hits the muffler bracket. I did a quick chop of the bracket to get it mounted. I noticed a small difference with the starter opening. The bolt pattern is the same but it is made for a slightly smaller starter. I need to machine 1/8" from the bell housing. So that means the tranny comes back out. While it's out I will modify the muffler bracket. A couple of the mounting holes I need to use need to be drilled out. I guess the Boxster uses the other holes. Once I get all this dealt with, I will fab mounting brackets for the new tranny.
So It is almost a bolt in swap. I figured it would go like this. At least the thing bolts up to the engine!
Great progress as always! And to think, I havent been able to change a fuel pump in 5 months...
Got the tranny out and back in. Glad I pulled it too. I found one area where 2 teeth from the flywheel had dug into the bell housing. There
is was a clearance problem at about the 5 o'clock position. Little machine work here and there and the engine cranks over just fine.
I started fabbing the rear mount. Once it's painted and installed I'll snap a couple pics.
The 6 speed is at least 20lbs heavier than the 5 speed. Kind of a PITA to R&R. My brother happened by just as I was stuffing it back in the car. Thanks Bro!
Car is on the road again!
6 Speed works great! Smooth & easy shifting, better gearing. Got my 930 CV's and axles in and my VSS reworked so my speedo works.
Now I have to track down a fuel smell. I can't find a leak or drip but I can smell it.
Now I need to get some shake down runs in...
Get that fuel leak fixed!!! Check the center tunnel and under the gas tank.
Really looks nice. Good job Mike.
Hi Mike- Looking good; I do not recall seeing the GT flares on your car the last time I saw it. Car looks nice and I bet it screams too. Nice work.
How about a video?
Got my new plate today. I got the idea from a Mercedes Konzept car.
I have released "914 TT" go reserve it now on the CA DMV website...
Car is running good but not great. It stumbles rich at WOT. I need to get it in for final dyno tuning at some point. I'm driving it to the 9-14 PCA auto-x (to observe) tomorrow. Got to take it somewhere on 9-14 right?
Mike, it has been awhile since I looked at this thread...wow, you've really kicked ass on this build! Your car looks and sounds great! Can't wait to see some driving videos....
Just drove it 180 miles round trip to the 9-14 auto-x.
I'm at the point where it needs to get the final tune.
Mike, we need video man.....
Thanks for the vid Mike! It sounds really smooth! Very inspiring for those of us still tripping over stuff parts and wiring harnesses the garage.
Wow, Mike. I can't believe I missed this until now. Took me two evenings to go through the entire thread, but enjoyed every minute. Pretty awesome engineering you've done there
Question - Will a T4 mount up to an Audi 5-speed or a Boxter 6-speed trans? (I could use an extra high gear, or two). If not, what other options are there for us old-school air-cooled lackeys?
[quote name='Andyrew' date='Sep 22 2012, 11:10 PM' post='1743052']
sway away custom axles? So 914 outer cv and boxster inner cv?
Why did you switch to boxster stub axles then instead of just going with the audi units? (I assume since they are custom axles they can make it for any cv...)
[quote name='kg6dxn' date='Aug 4 2013, 11:40 AM' post='1904219']
[quote name='76-914' post='1904212' date='Aug 4 2013, 08:21 AM']
If it weren't for the fact that my axle angle was too severe, I would have left the 5 speed in there for a while. I needed the 108mm flanges from the 6 speed to use 930 CV's. I tried to buy just the axle flanges but none of the Porsche dismantlers would sell me just the parts. Now I have all the parts, I just have to make it work...
Very interesting build thread. Interesting alternative to the Subi-swap for those looking for modern liquid-cooled power and smooth shifting.
My apologies if I missed the answers somewhere, but was curious about the two comments above.
First, why the Boxster axle stubs instead of the Audi's if you were doing custom axles?
Second, what was the issue with the axle angle? Was it due to the height or the length of the engine? Are the axles on the 6-speed in a different location relative to Rear face of Block compared to the 5-speed? Or did the 6-speed just allow the use of 930 CV's which should be more tolerant of the large axle angle (which is unchanged from the 5-spd?).
On a side note, The tuner called in sick today so no dyno tune until I return from the PCA Escape...
If you remember the automatic 914 that used an Audi 5000 transmission. This had a starter machined into the rear bell housing.
I don't think that quite qualifies as 'machined'
Well, it looks like they used some sort of machine to do that
How did the Retune @ 034 go?
They must have been prepping their GTI,80Q,A4 for sema then..
.... They went and changed all the parts that they have their own name on....
What did they replace the cobra with?
Cobra head was $60
Coil packs $30 each x4
MAF housing I had did not have the square mesh diffuser since it was aluminum. Their housing was $130.
Spark plugs were a deal at $4 each...
I got my car back today!
I got there and they said my turbo was falling off so they couldn't tune anymore until it was fixed. So I drove it home with an exhaust leak that got worse and worse. 5 miles into the trip, the Wastegate FELL OFF! 2 bolts backed out and that's why it was load and would not boost higher than 16psi. Duh. Oh well, easy fix. The tuner said he thought is was 90% done before the exhaust leak started. The WG was dragging on the ground after it fell off. Hopefully it's not too damaged.
At 16psi it did 229HP on a 4 wheel drive mustang dyno. Add 15% and that equates to 263HP at the flywheel. Probably more drive line loss since it was turning the front wheels too; maybe 20% or 275HP.
Either way, before the WG fell off... Holy shit! with a major boost leak this car moves!
Overall I'm happy. Once these guys got back from SEMA, the buckled down and got to my car. I wish they would have found the WG problem and fixed it and finished tuning. The tuner said he could have it wrapped up in about 30 minutes on my next visit.
Now I have to fix the CV boot shredding problem. 3 boots in 2000 miles. I think some sand rail units are in my future...
Dyno looks great! For a comparison this is my dyno. I believe the boost controller was set to 19psi and I had 91 + 3 gal of 100 as I was going to crank up the boost but didnt due to my AFR being high.
What CV boots are you running?
Also what did they set the redline to?
I took mine regularly to 7200. I found it kept making solid power increase until just over 7k. People have run to 8k on virtually stock heads before and the valves done start to float until the high 7's.
Are you running Aftermaket boots (Over the shelf non oem) or OEM boots? Try getting some high end boots from Raxles.com or similar.
Hey Mike, car sounds great love the sound it put's out. John
Well there's your problem... There's a hole in the exhaust manifold... No wonder it was loud and not making boost!
Looks like the bolts just backed out. Then it fell and dragged on the roadway. Look at the pic of the wastegate and you can see the self machining that happened. I ordered a new 90° adapter, it took the brunt of the damage. The WG has a little grinding on it so I may replace it too. So far the repair is $29 for the 90° and a couple bolts. Not too bad. I should have it running this weekend!
For the rest of you bean counters, the dyno tune with labor and parts cost me $1200, with $400 of it in parts. They only charged me to install spark plugs once. The first set were non resistor and the ECU went haywire. The second set were colder and resistor which made the ECU behave. I also kept all the old parts removed just in case. In CA the law requires mechanics to turn over parts if the customer requests them.
Got the car fixed and took it for a shake down run...
HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!!!
This thing is super fast. Almost scary fast. The suspension, brakes and roll bar keep it from being scary. It's boosting to 20psi. Nice and smooth boost. I can get full boost under 3000rpm. I can hit redline in 2nd & 3rd very fast, too fast. I keep having to shift...
I like it. I thought I heard a slight detonation at 20psi and above 5000rpm. I dialed in my methanol and it seemed to go away. I still need to take it back to flash out the ABS alarm so at that time I may have them look into the ping and maybe turn the boost up.
They set up the factory boost solenoid. No other boost control is needed and the factory valve keeps a nice boost plateau mitigating spikes.
Throttle response is great! Even at +0% in traffic all the way to 100%. Give it gas on the freeway and you're quickly moving at 100+mph.
I need to get this on a track and see what it can do! The PCA is having a DE event right before Thanksgiving at Laguna Seca. I'm not sure I can get in this one but for sure the next. I think I need to put my racing seat in and get a new 5 point harness...
So 034Motorsport has redeemed themselves. Even if they had the car for 3 weeks.
I highly recommend an Audi conversion. It's way faster than my V8 and easier to control. It's way smoother than the rotary and easier to control. The Audi drives like a factory engine until you put your foot into it. Then it roars to life as a big HP motor. My v8 was 250hp, my rotary was ~500hp. This is somewhere in the middle. Based on the "seat of the pants" dyno, I have to be nearing the 300hp mark. Which meets my original build goal. Just a little more tweaking here and there and I will be "just driving" and done wrenching...
Who wants to go for a ride?
Hope to see you and your wife in Monterrey this coming June.
Glad to see you down here in the LA area..........
No more museums though!
Take care and see you in June......take my wife for a spin in your car so I can get the green light on a new motor...lol. Awesome car.
Less than half way through the 3.3 conversion I've learned it's very easy to say, "I'll just stick a bigger engine in there, it'll be great." But doing it is soooo much harder. You really engineered that car into your own thing. Getting the brakes and suspension to match the engine output without overdoing it... well... ... Nice work.
Nice work Mike!
Went for a good shake down run toady. Car runs great with BIG power.
It is evident that I will need a new clutch soon. The car make too much power for the SPEC Stage 3 clutch. In between the 2-3 shift it feels like it slips a little. Once in 3rd at full boost, it does not slip at all. It's only when it grabs does it feel loose. I also smell burning rubber and hear a squeal in 3rd, 4th & 5th @ WOT and 20psi. it is either the belt slipping or the rear tires slipping. I think it's the belt.
I also need to figure out a CV joint solution. The 930 cv's are not going to last. I can hear both sides clicking and the passenger side got real load after a few full boost pulls onto the freeway. Marty (MSDS) gave me a lead to some 4000hp CV's and I might have to go that route...
Mike that sounds a lot better
Sounds like my 1.8T. And if you EVER needed more power you could bump the boost up or throw a larger turbo on.
Sounds like you have a proper 350hp now. With meth, 20psi and that turbo you should be between 330-350 crank.
Take an in car pull, I'd like to see the speedo
Ha ha ha, I know exactly what you're talking about. Fun isn't it? I think those Hondas must have run into a a lot of MGB's, so now think all older two seaters are wimpy. They do sober up pretty quickly though, don't they?
I left my outer CV's stock so they'd break instead of the 901. So far that's what happened, and I've broken three. I have a stronger transmission now so am thinking that maybe I should upgrade. I was going toward the 944 CV's, but if there's something better I'm all ears. I'm curious to see what you come up with.
Which turbo project will last longer before blowing up, Mike B's or McMark D's??
PS - Sir Francis Drake Blvd through West Marin was just re-paved. No lines painted yet...still some construction. I'm hoping to inspire a West Marin 914 weekend cruise loop as soon as it's done. This is all part of Excellence Mag's various "test loops" as I've seen local landmarks in many of their photos. It's been epic fun now that it is no longer pot-hole riddled crumbly road
Did you ever figure out what happened? kinda kicking myself that I didnt want to drive it. Maybe next time I come up I will ask
I know I will be up in the area for some Vintage Racing in Sonoma, hopefully some of you guys will be there as well!
Given your experience with aftermarket ecu's are you still happy with running the factory computer? Seems like a lot of drama
I agree it sounds like you popped a hose. When did this happen?
Well a nice 30psi spike would definitely cause some popped hoses...
Why did you swap the 5 speed back in? Issues with the 6spd?
Mike, didn't I see a Haltech Platinum ecu in the trunk of your 914, when you were down in L.A. ?
Or was it just an HECU-1 coil igniter ?
Well a quick look at the tubing and it looks intact. I'll have to look carefully for a ripped silicone connection.
If the tubing is OK, that leaves a stuck diverter valve or a bad turbo...
The turbo would make a noise, dentist drill or similar or sound like an exhaust leak.
Forged DV's really dont go bad. It makes perfect sense for it to be the wategate that dragged on the ground Those turbo's dont just up and go bad instantaneously unless something comes in the intake and its the blades.
There's you problem right there...
The Waste gate broke! The two halves separated and all the exhaust pressure was going out the WG. no spring pressure at all...
Looks like it took some abuse but it was enough to start the self disassembly process.
Here is the one I had sitting around. 38mm water cooled JDM POS. I have had great luck with the WG vendor so hopefully it will last long enough. This one was bolted on with new gaskets and high temp thread locker.
OK. Car runs perfect again.
2nd rule in Troubleshooting:
Make sure your not chasing 2 different problems.
I had a blown fuse, then I had a no boost problem. I first started to look at this as a related problem. ECU got the blame. Turns out to be an electrical and mechanical fix. (See last post)
Now on to the next project...
Who can guess what these parts will become?
That was a Haltech WB O2 controller. I do have an extra HECU-1 if anyone needs one...
Mike, pm me a good guy price...I might want a spare unit in stock for 9148 gtt.
Today's project was corny and trivial. I bought these "Porsche Lasers" and installed one on my rear bumper. They came from Bangood.com (China) and cost $12.50 for a pair. The kit comes with a hole saw "HSS" that worked good enough for my FG bumper. It is actually an LED with a lens that is printed with the Porsche Logo. Like a slide but. It looks better than I thought it would. I have it pointed down and will light up with the headlights. The ribbed barrel unscrews to reveal a small flange on the end of the lamp.
The kit is intended to be installed in the doors and go on with the dome light. If you want a pair go here... http://www.banggood.com/2-X-Laser-Logo-LED-Door-Ghost-Shadow-Welcome-Lights-For-Porsche-p-908117.html
The whole install was worth it since I discovered the fiberglass bonding to the mounting tabs needs some attention.
I finally got my "non plunging" 930 CV's. These operate up to 40°. The cage and star are chrome moly. Notice the bearing track is symmetrical, equal distance and 90° to the face. These require 3" of splines to let the axle slide in the CV.
My plunging CV's click due to the angle. As the axle spins, there has been a harmonic vibration of the axle. This is mostly noticed at low rpm (axle speed). On the freeway there is no vibration. These CV's eliminate the harmonic and clicking. Install tomorrow!
Well it's going under the knife again. When I originally installed the Audi motor, I mounted it as low as as far forward as possible. This became my Nemesis. I have been fighting axle angle for too long. Every time you fix something, you find the next weakest link. I now have axles and CV's that are stronger than almost any force my car can give. But the angle is steep, 15-20°, maybe more under compression.
The next weak link... The Boxster tranny (5 & 6 speed) use a circlip to keep the stub in the tranny. The axle angle is now causing it to "walk" out of the tranny after 500 miles or so. It pops right out of the diff and spills fluid on the ground.
I just took some measurements of the car and have determined I need to move & rotate the engine/tranny combo. It will move 2" to the rear and the end of the tranny will be lifted 2". This will put the axle in a better but not perfect position. The 6 speed is much longer than the 5. If I move it back any further, the exhaust will hang out too far.
This pic shows the present position (red) and the future position (green). I only need to rebuild the motor mounts and reuse the cradle. Then I have to move 100 other things connected to the motor, inter cooler, turbo, exhaust, MAF, fuel lines, methanol tank, trunk floor, and everything else that pops up.
Good news: I'm not swapping the motor out. It runs great, needs nothing except to flash out my ABS brake alarm.
Now I have a summer project...
Here are pics of the axle angles from the rear. Taken with my iPhone resting on level ground. The left side is worse due to the offset diff in the tranny. This does not show front to rear angle, only up/down. The angle on the left side was creating a walking motion of the CV toward center, thus pulling the stub flange out. The CV's are rated to work up to 40°.
Could you integrate the ABS from the passat? It would require redoing the brake lines and adding sensors, but doable right??
Just another awesome thought (914 with ABS would be awesome...)
On topic, that is an insane amount of angle. Really surprising you dont have more issues with it.
Dude your making it way harder than it needs to be. Darn engineers. Just paint the drivers side red like the passenger side. That's what is throwing everything off. Pitiful when someone ignorant like me puts you in your place huh
Maybe the axles are different lengths, and he painted the Right side Red, so's he knows which one goes where
Nice build! My own first project car was a Mk1 Scirocco with a 1.8t (180hp) swap. Would love to turbo my 914 but I want to keep the original engine and at the moment it just seems easier to build a 2.4 liter instead of going the boostroute.
I wondered how long it would take before you got into it again. Is an amphi-car on the horizon.
Well the axles are 2 different lengths and purchased at different times. So one set came raw and one came red.
I now have several pairs of various size 28 spline axles. PM me if you need an axle and I'll see if I have one.
I also have 2 pairs of 33 spline if someone needs those...
Did anyone think I could make it a full year without tearing it apart again???
So I finally put the car on jack stands (6) and started realigning the drivetrain. I purchased a motorcycle jack from Sears.com. It was only $140 and built a jig to hold the engine/tranny in position.
I started on the rear trannt mount first and over the next couple weekends will build the engine mounts. Lucky for me I built the cradle to accept modular motor mount attachments. I used ratchet straps to pull the motor rearward and right/left. I now have at least +2" in front of the motor now.
Here is the starting angle as viewed from above...
Here is the finish angle as viewed from above
I pulled everything out of the trunk area. Originally I built a dropped trunk floor to gain more space. The new trunk floor will be the same depth as stock.
I had to cut out a section in the rear to make room for the 6 speed. I still have the 5 speed but it is smaller so it should fit no problem. I am reenforcing the area with some 1", .120 wall DOM tubing, to tie everything back together...
Got my motor mounts done today. The fronts are complete. The rear I'm not happy with so that will get reworked. The rear is triangulated and gusseted but you can't tell from the pic. The pic makes it look like a hinge...
I managed to move the motor without disconnecting and draining the radiator hoses. I did have to disconnect and drain the intercooler. This was OK since I didn't like how the intake coupling to the throttle body set before. This time I connected the coupling and let the intercoole hang from the TB, than welded new mounts. Before the 90° coupling was slightly pinched due to the angle and location of the IC. It fits much better now.
So here's the list of things to do...
Change fitting on fuel rail to a 90° since the motor is relocated and there is interference.
Re-mount the IC water pump and fill and bleed the system.
Install new circlip on tranny stub axles.
Re-work exhaust due to relocating motor and new interference issue.
clearance engine cradle for relocated axle. gusset cradle at modification.
Rebuild trunk floor.
Remount methanol system
Re-install trunk electrics and ECU
I'm sure I'll think of more to do as I continue...
A few pics. You can see just under the axle flange where I cut the cradle to clear the CV. This is where the gusset/reinforcement will happen.
Rear mount looks like shit. I reused part of the old mount. Just not happy with the result but it is pretty strong.
Looks good Mike! Probably a lot of work. I just swapped mounts and it's taken me a couple of days to re-trim stuff so it all fits since it pushed the engine back a few inches (it's a good thing and the mount fits much better). Made me realize how hard it would be to MAKE a mount and get it level, plumb, at the right height, angle, etc.
Looks damn good to me!
Still pushing forward. Most of the engine bits are bolted back on. Exhaust is ready to install and then I can start fabricating the new trunk floor.
I drilled the fuel rail for safety wire to hold the injector clips. Works great! Now my injectors won't move lower into the intake manifold. Since I'm running fuel at 65psi, the injectors would walk down toward the manifold. New O rings on the injectors too. I painted the intake manifold red. Not sure why but it looks better than it did.
Looking down at the intercooler. The 60° reducing coupling from the throttle body fits better now. Here you can also see the methanol injector. it's mounted in the IC as this was the best place to get maximum-equal cooling.
I still need to deal with the wiring harness. I figure I will build the trunk floor then decide where to route things. I need to make room for the meth tank and pump somewhere too. I had a 4" drop in the trunk floor before. Now it will be stock height.
Here is the part that sucks. I had to cut the trunk shelf to clear the fuel rail and vacuum hose connection... Once I figure out what the finished product will look like, I'll clean up the cut.
Why not build a fiberglass floor that you can bolt on and off? Would make engine removal and workin on it a snap..
I mean considering the car and all the other bits on it...
That's a great idea. You could do a partial overlay if you didn't want to cut the whole trunk section out. I was just wondering what I could do to make mine a little prettier. You have weird little clearance cuts for the starter and clutch fork with a Subie.
I am making the trunk floor out of aluminum. Not fiberglass. But it will be removable. I rosette welded the old one and had to drill them out. Since this car has turned into a "drivetrain test mule" I want to make it super easy next time. I do not plan to swap engines again unless I get a deal on a water cooled Porsche 6.
I installed a new Stewart electric water pump and got rid of the Mezerie pump. The Stewart is virtually silent with only the slightest hum. Seems to work great, simply connected to the old relay.The tamp is a little low at 170° but it was like that with the old pump too. The bearing in the old pump was going out.
Car seems to be running great. No axle or CV issues. Good boost and good O2 levels. It's ready to be driven...
Looks like this new. Mine is black 1-1/4" in/out.
I cleaned up the rear trunk. Ready for the Werks Reunion next Friday.
I got poked by a member here for messy wiring in the trunk...
October 2013 while at the Porsche Escape I had to jury rig my water pump after a timer relay failed. Before that, I has some other unsightly wiring for the main power and fans. I let it run like this for almost 1 year.
Here is a before picture, at its worse...
Here is the after. I used the opportunity to pull the tank and install AN tank fittings. -8 for the pump supply and a -6 for the return. I also installed AN ball valves for maintenance of the fuel system. I run the return into the trunk before the tank for access. The fuel system consists of 3/8" Aluminum hardline (soft, 250psi burst rating) and braided hose. The fuse box is a marine grade unit. It's only rated for 125A but I'm claiming the NEC 10' tap rule.
Merry X-Mas! Since you bumped it... Here's an update...
The 5 speed is going back in so the 6 speed can be sent out to Dr Evil for some surgery. I hope to get it sent out to Ohio early next year.
Damn....a water cooled Porsche six huh?
Do you have any in car video of driving this thing?
Mike. will a 930 cv bolt up to the 012 FWD A4 output flange ?
They do not fit. The 012 tranny either comes in 100mm or 130mm CV configuration. If you could get the bearing and spacer that comes on the 012 stub, you could "fit" them on the 466, 108mm stub and pop them in the 012 tranny. The stubs are the same (almost) just missing a circlip and the above parts.
I instead machined down the 130mm stubs in a lathe. I bough some 94mm-108mm adapters from Patrick Motorsports. Designed for 914's tp use 930 CV's. I welded and spun to make sure they are true.
I have a set of 100mm stubs to use 944 CVs just in case.
Here are some dirty picks.. You can see the mounting holes used to mount on the 914 stub, they serve no purpose here. Big fat chamfered, layered weld holds everything together. It took a long time to get them tacked up true but they work very well.
Mike,what about something like this ? I did this for another project.
I swapped out the 6 speed for my 5 in order to prep the 6 for some Dr. Evil love. The 5 went in without problems, or so I thought. I could not get the clutch to disengage after the install. I tried to bleed the system to no avail. I even purchased a new master and slave (I was wanting to do this anyway). The master I had at 5/8" bore was a little small. The new one is .875 bore to match the new slave. The stock slave was plastic my new Dorman is cast iron. I just like iron better.
The new master and slave would still not disengage the clutch so I new it was time to pull the tranny and see what's doing. I spent all day, 10 hours, trying to pull the tranny away from the motor. It would not move more than 1/4". WTF? In a move of desperation I cut a hole in the bellhousing with a 2" hole saw to access the clutch retainer bolts. I removed the 6 bolts by spinning the motor and the tranny fell out (almost) on to my jack and the unit easily was removed. I cut the hole on the top of the housing away from any case webbing. Hopefully it will hold up for a while. The Passat 012 trannys are cheap to replace so I wasn't too concerned and one day the 6 speed will go back in.
I could not slide the disc off the shaft at all. It would not move. I had to use a puller to dislodge it. Once loose it was clearly galled and boogered up. My SPEC stage 3 pressure plate took some collateral damage from the hole saw so I went to flaps and bought a LUK unit to run for the time being.
I'm not sure how I fucked up the disc going in but I did use the alignment tool and it seemed to slide in good. Oh well... Tomorrow the car goes back together and I hope to be driving it before the end of the day.
Here are some glory pics...
Mike. That don't add up? You could slide the pilot shaft in thru the disc with ease yet they seized upon each other? I'm thinking alignment issue but how would it have slid in if it were that?
Well that is nuts... I wouldnt hesitate to give Spec a call and ask them if they have ran into this issue. Maybe they'll send you a new unit, who knows..
This was the first time you tried running the 5 speed since you swapped it back?
I have a v6 FWD trani hooked up to my 2.8 v6 in my shed, I think it'll bolt on if for some reason you buggered up your trani bad and want to get it back on the road while your 6 speed is down. I just ask that you return it when you get your 6 speed installed
The SPEC Stage 3+ clutch came in the donor car. It has worked flawlessly. When I pulled the 6 speed I inspected the copper composite disc. It was glazed and burnt a little. When I compared it to e LUK organic disc I had, the copper unit was noticeably worn. I installed the LUK disc without inspecting it or trying it on the main shaft. It was new and I assumed...
The Spec pressure plate was damaged while cutting into the tranny. I bought a new LUK assembly; Disc, Plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing. I am going to order a new HP unit but this was to get it on the road. Hopefully it will last until after WCR.
This time I slid the disc on the main shaft and it slid perfect. I installed all the new parts and use the supplied lube on the splines. This time the tranny practically fell into the car. A couple wiggles by hand an the tranny seated flush with the motor. I reassembled the car and took it out for two drives today. The first run I jumped on the freeway and the clutch slipped bad. I melowed the throttle and came home to read the breaking instructions this time. Looks like I need 500 miles of stop & go traffic before I can get into the boost.
The second run was about 25 miles around Danville and Blackhawlk. The car is running great. It did go into limp mode once and came back with an O2 code. I restarted, cleared the code and kept driving. No other problems. When I got home 10 miles later, I checked the WB/NB switch I have to the ECU and the connections look suspect. I'm going to remove the switch and WB/NB converter bot and discard it. My ECU was dyno tuned to the NB signal and I don't need this extra circuit. I have a WB sensor still with my Haltecth controller and Innovate gauge. This signal was pushed to the adapter. It converts the WB 5V+ signal and scales it down the NB voltage. It theoretically gives you a WB signal at NB voltage. Since the tuner went with the standard NB signal, I don't need it. My ECU would need to be modified to WB to use the 5V signal.
I think the first new disc was messed up I never tried it before installation so I will never know for sure. Now I have a 2" inspection port on top of the tranny.
I plan to pick up a new flywheel too along with my new clutch. I'm very happy with SPEC and have use one ion the turbo rotary without issues. I may go with a new one again. There are so many to choose from with different weights. The one I have now is 11lb (said the PO). I haven't measured it but it looks smoked and blued. The DAPO told me he had to slip the clutch to prevent stalling. I have had no issues with stalling but my car is 1000+ lbs lighter than the donor. With this flywheel, I can let the car roll forward in 1st gear with out it being jumpy at low or no throttle. I thknk the weight is perfect for the chassis/engine combo.
Well the stock clutch isnt very strong but it should hold 200hp just fine. I would dial your boost back to 10psi but give it a good couple hundred miles of stop and go like you would any other new clutch.
I love my 16lb spec flywheel. Stock is like 23lb or more.
Why not just grab a bleed type boost controller (like $40 bucks on ebay?) and run that... Your ecu will adjust just fine. 20psi should make you close to 325 on pump. Certainly enough to glaze that clutch really fast. Or just put a vaccume line to your wastegate actuator and run off the wastegate.. at least till your clutch is broken in.
I was recently at a 914 swap meet in San Jose. I bought a tow bar setup for $20. The bar looked like it needed some bracing and stiffening. 8' of 1/2" DOM later and it's ready to go to the powder coater.
Then I turned my attention to the bracket. Clearly home made and in need of work. It mounts to the suspension points like any other but My car is too low and it will never work. BTW, for those following the adventure, my car died when I got home from the swap meet. I found a bad fuel pump relay was the cause.
Measuring my tow vehicle, the hitch is 19" off the ground. With the tow bar flat, the ball cup is 6" off the ground. A difference of 13" places the bracket mounts into the lower section of my bumper. This should make the tow bar level while towing.
So I pulled the bumper and valence and was reminded of how ugly the front end is. The PO really cut a huge hole in the front for air flow. Too big really. I think it might be time to overhaul the cooling system. I always hated how much space is lost up front. Al at Parts Heaven is hooking me up with all the Boxster pieces I need to make a big change. I also need to down size my oil cooler to suit as well. You can see how big my setup is. The oil cooler is sitting on top of the gas tank in this pic. Black paint was too cut down on reflection through the grill.
13" ends up just above the access holes. (plug missing on right) I need to get the radiator out and build reinforcements. I need to get all the parts before I decide on a final design and fabrication. The hacked hole looks terrible. I may have to section a piece from the parts car in my side yard.
Pretty cool about the tow bar!
I've been deciding on radiator setup as well. Thinking about a Sciracco radiator or a vw golf MK2 radiator..
Looking for something dual core and that has a A/C condenser that could fit.
This is on my short list..
This is on my short list for a AC condenser 06 mini cooper
Got an evap built in.
Here is a workup I made for the radiator front pocket where I was going to put all the stuff for my setup.
If the 2 of you are considering radiators, take a look at the Celica, and the MR2 radiators as well. Some of the cores are 52mm, and appear to be close to a perfect fit. The MR2's are slightly larger, and you can find them with fan shrouds, and black fans. The Celica rads also can be found with shrouds and fans, but you settle for blue or red (cheesy IMHO) fans the that case. Fan and shroud can be found for less than the radiator alone that Andy posted a link to...
The one I posted was just the longest one I could find
The MR2 radiator sure looks like an interesting option Has a condensor that looks like it could fit as well....
The lines look like they are made for the radiator to be tilted back a bit. This could work well to fit the radiator closer to the front.
Most of the images appear to be posted upside down for most of the radiators for the Celica and MR2. My calculations indicated that both radiators would fit vertically, and do so forward of the back of the headlight boxes.
I'm using the Celica radiator. It fits well.
Get the fans and shroud if you go that way.
Mike, no wonder that thing never even comes up to temp. Sheeeeesh that's a lot of cooling area!
Those cheap radiators scare me.. I mean they dont even know if they are a 3 row or 2 row! (God forbid if they are a 3 row...)
Im sure they would cool 1.8L just fine, Its just a fear of mine that they are total crap... The Mishimoto is a big company but they dont have a great reputation as a good radiator company.
Yup. I might try one of the cheap toyota radiators but I think if I start to heatsoak I am going to go with a dual pass VW alum radiator.
Grabbed this one, tried to offer him a bit less but no go.
Ill be replacing the fans and giving the radiator setup a trial to see what it can do. If it ends up being junk Ill open up the ends to see how the core is made. Ill post in my thread when it comes in and give real dimensions and such
I've been running a Turbo MR2 radiator and fans for 8-9 years now.
The car runs at 200-210* town and highway all day long. It will sit on the higher side(210) at night when the air is coolest and dense. I do have large silicone heater hoses(1.25) on feed and return so there may be some reduced flow velocity.
Most of what I've been able find says this engine in factory/mild tune likes 205*.
I am considering putting in A/C so a condenser will be a pre test of the air flow at some point while I consider trunk clean up as well.
Fabrication started in earnest today. Both the new oil cooler and new radiator have found their place. I added some 3/4" .120 wall DOM tubing from the shock tower to the front. I have a 1.5" square tube sectioned and welded to the top of the forward suspension points and !/4" plate welded to that to pick up the load of the tow bar. The DOM ties the from the shock tower to the 1/4" plate. This should also stiffen up the front end since the PO cut massive holes in the inner fender well. I'm sure things have been flexing under load. I will add some more gussets before I feel comfortable with the strength of the tow bar setup.
The celica radiator is a great fit between the headlights. I started to fab the shrouding too. I started with a 16ga floor with a bend to match the radiator bottom angle. 14mm holes locate the radiator in the floor. I then cut some 14ga scrap steel that had a perfect 90° in it to seal on the radiator. 914 Rubber supplied a seal (rear window to engine lid) that will seal the radiator to the shroud. The shroud had to be fit around the DOM for a good air tight seal.
Once all the gusseting is complete, I will graft in a new nose from my parts car in the side yard. I need a new bumper too. I posted a WTB but hopefully I will find one at the swap tomorrow. It will look like a GT but the cut out will be taller to match my oil cooler and the tow bar cross brace will need clearance in the bumper too.
Love the tow bar setup Mike! Been thinking of doing something similar
Looks great! Love the support and the radiator shroud is looking pretty good! Is that going to get welded in?
Im curious with the empty area below the lights if you considered going there with your oil cooler?
I am going to see about doing dual oil coolers under the headlights like maybe two small 3x6 coolers run in sequence. and remove the fog lights.
PS thats a nice looking welding blanket! Kevlar?
My space below the headlights is reserved for brake cooling ducts. I plan to run them from the fog light grills.
Yes the blanket is kevlar shielding my oil cooler line from flying sparks! I have two of them given to me by someone? Don't remember who.
Gotcha. I've been contemplating brake cooling as well. I Figured I'd put a discrete duct under the front bumper or make the fog light opening a bit bigger.
More fun today.
Gussets and bracing done. bracket for oil cooler done. Shroud sides done. I even mocked up the gasket seal. I put some on the GT valence too. Looks like it will seal great!
Time to go cut the nose off my parts car...
Are you going to rubber isolate the oil cooler? Also is the rubber shroud the only isolation your using on your radiator?
What are you using for the rubber shroud? Looks pretty good...
It looks pretty good! You seem to be able to fabricate things much faster than me
What size inlet hole are you going to be using?
Interesting, Did you eliminate your water/oil cooler completely and replace it with this cooler? Seems like your trying to cool the oil down quite a bit, I thought you were going to have the oil cooler just run open air like that maybe with a small fan behind it just in case.
That inlet is about the same size as the 916 inlet. I think I previously measured it to 21x5.5
I picked up a factory shroud with fans for the radiator. Perfect fit but I need to check my stash for electrical connectors. I like this one better than the cheapo Chinese fans and shroud that's sold as a package with this radiator. If these fans don't blow enough, my old fans can be fit into this shroud with a little ingenuity.
What did you pay for that factory unit? Looks pretty nice. I was considering buying some nice fans but think that a factory unit would be nice as well..
Not bad at all. Should work pretty well IMHO.
How do the mounting holes fit? Look slightly off in the pic.
I got the nose finished today. Its hard to see but there is an upper flange to seal the top of the oil cooler. It's setup to use a gasket to seal on the face of the cooler.
I bought a QRS GT bumper today; to cut up. Yes, cut. The GT opening will be raised a little and I need a notch on each side for the tow hitch mounts. I will cut it and re-glass it before painting it black again.
After a little satin black
Looks great! Much more clean and civilized than before.
Out of curiosity did you consider eliminating the horizontal bar and just bracing the tabs to the body better?
Sounds like a smart move
Oil cooler is mounted and plumbed. Radiator is mounted and plumbed. Bumper is cut and modified for a larger cooler size. I used kevlar to glass the section back in. Very solid. Now I need some minor body work and reassembly. I still have to rework some wiring for the fans and thermostatic switch.
Looks great! Fit is very nice to that oil cooler.
I like how you held the radiator in place at the top. Looks like you cut the tabs down as well. How much clearance do you have to the hood?
I just cut mine, I think I have 3/8" left on the tabs, enough to use them if I want. I am about 1/8" currently but my radiator is going to drop another 1/4" when it finally seats on the body/rubber.
I was going to put the fan controls, fuel pump, and other stuff on the lower area of the trunk and make a false floor about 5" tall to cover it and the radiator lines. I might even make it out of multiple layers of fiberglass and incorporate it in my shrouding.
I am still debating on line size and type for mine.. Considering -8 SS but worried about pressure loss.
Show off. Looks really good Mike.
Radiator is done. The factory fan shroud needed a gasket. I borrowed the rear trunk main gasket and it's a perfect fit. I ordered a new replacement from 914 Rubber.
The car runs great! It warms up faster and stays at 190°. The fans pull a ton of air. With the fans running, there is enough air through the oil cooler to hold one of my shop rags from suction. I'm very happy with the outcome.
Here are some pics of the final setup.
Now the bad news... On my third test drive today, I blew the coolant hose at the engine bay, right where it turns up toward the motor. Time to order some green stripe...
Good news... My tow bar setup worked perfect. I called my wife to rescue me, grab the truck and tow bar. Success! Now I need to rig some kind of connector, diodes, etc. so I can have the 914 turn and brake lights work when connected to the tow rig.
Highs and lows come and go in our lives, but the lows simply allow us appreciate the highs more
The mods look great though
I know your an old hot rodder/4x4 guy at heart when I see the polished diamond plate.
Great job on the radiator and cooling fans.
Are you worried about a small rock puncturing the radiator at all? Are you going to put any type of screen over the opening to protect the radiator?
Given how low our cars are and the amount of stuff on the roads these days......
Considering that there are a lot of cars with exposed radiators not behind protective grills I am going to say its not going to be an issue. Think of all the FMIC's that are put right up front. I ran one in my frony bumper 4" from the ground for years, no punctures but it was painted satin black and would get the paint chipping off.
Also wtf is up with your radiator hoses????
Setup looks killer!
Is that the size of the toyota radiator inlets? If so ill go halvsies.
I havent measured, is the audi outlets 1 1/4?
Btw I am down, let me know when you order it and ill send you paypal.
Bellis your car rules.maybe next year you'll take me for a drive.
My new green stripe hose showed up today (Sunday USPS). This was $120 shipped to my door from Amazon. I bought the "used" but the description said damaged box. What I received was 50 feet of new hose in a damaged/repaired box. The hose itself is perfect, without even a scratch. The box was barely damaged, but torn in the center of the coiled hose. I have no idea why the Post Office delivered today but I'll take it.
Are you planning on still running your auxiliary pump up front like you were showing me at WCR? It definetely helps in moving the coolant along!
I think that's great insurance over a stock mechanical pump doing all the work. I'd think about putting it at the end of the most convoluted side of your tubing to draw it through the twists and turns- keep the flow moving.
Looks like my random limp mode issues were part of the battery switch problem. I replaced the old switch with a Moroso unit. The new unit is much larger and interfered with the hood hinge so i had to hog out the mounting hole and make an escutcheon plate. I used some leftover diamond plate I had laying around. I also replaced a broken battery connector that was bugging me. Seems to work great. I put about 10 miles on the car today tooling around the hood, staying in cell phone range just in case...
Car is pretty much ready for WCR. I have a couple things I want to tweak on but it runs great.
You've talked me into it. I've been reading this build thread since the beginning. So I have a chassis and I've been looking for the right swap, now I have it. Just picked up an Audi 1.8t donor car. The problem is that mine is a 01 a4 Quattro. I can't use the transmission like you did initially. I saw that you bought a 05 -08 boxster s 6 speed and as much as I'd like to do that now I want to put a 5 speed in to get it up and running. The only question that I'm not sure about is are all the 5 speed boxster transmissions a direct bolt up or are there only certain years that will work. From what I see on here they should all bolt up. It is really like to verify that before I buy a transmission that I can't use. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the build!
That's an older post on the limp mode thing.
So just to hijack for a minute...How much firewall cutting is required to put a 1.8T in? I'm liking the 6 speed bolt-up idea.
Mine is moved back to where you see Andyrew's bar. My targa top still fits in the trunk too. The 6 speed is longer, invading the stock muffler space. The 5 speed has 3-4 more inches of space.
Interesting info, would that extra 3-4" allow for installation without cutting the trunk?
Page 3 or 4 of this thread has a side by side of the trannies with the axle locations centered on each other.You will see the longer ball housing of the 901.
Gotcha. Had I been more diligent in reading Andy's post I wouldn't have been asking that question...
It's been a while since you've done the conversion, do you prefer it to the rotary from a driving/handling standpoint?
My car can be driven like a stock VW or Audi when not in the boost. An everyday car. Once in boost it fuching awesome and really comes alive.
I've had 3 different renditions of rotary engines. They are fun, fast, loud but lack torque. I always had to use 1st gear on the 901 with a rotary. Hated it!
The newer tranny technology is so much better. That is half the fun on the car. If I had to drive the 1.8t in front of a 901, that would totally suck. It just can't be shifted fast or smooth enough to keep the boost up.
The Boxster shifter parts are far superior to the rod as well.
Overall I love the 1.8t. It's a great motor. The Bosch Motronic 7.5 and drive by wire are awesome.
Andyrew has more power potential and that's OK. This build wasn't about maximum power. I blew up so many motors, I just got tired of it. When I saw JRust's car with the previous owner drive from Idaho to Monterrey... I knew I needed a motor that reliable. So the build is about good HP (325 @ 20psi) and reliability. The car is awesome on the street and fast as fuch on the track. I was looking for a Subaru when I stumbled on the 1.8t. All the Subaru's I found were junk needed a rebuild.
My curiosity is piqued because I have a shot at a 1.8 Passat engine & tranny. I should just slap myself upside the head as I don't have a smidgen of the fab skills you've got.
But, I guess I can dream...
Great stuff Mike, thanks for sharing.
I just read through the whole thread. Awesome work on everything except one small detail. All these amazing fabrication projects and you are using angle bracket as a battery hold down????? This car needs something better.
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